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Don't feel bad - this is literally the most common mistake for first-time business owners. The tax software takes you through a linear process, so until you get to the expenses section, it looks terrifying! Make sure you're tracking ALL legitimate business expenses: - Cost of goods/inventory - Shipping supplies - Software subscriptions - Advertising/marketing - Website hosting - Payment processing fees - Home office (if you have dedicated space) - Business percentage of internet/phone - Professional services (accountant, lawyer) - Business insurance You'll enter these on Schedule C, and they'll directly reduce your taxable income. The difference between $120k in revenue and maybe $50k in actual taxable profit is HUGE for your tax bill!
Thanks for the detailed list! I didn't realize payment processing fees were deductible - that's actually a significant amount for my business. Is there a good rule of thumb for determining what percentage of my internet and phone to deduct? I use both for business but obviously personal use too.
For internet and phone, you need to determine a reasonable business-use percentage. If you use your cell phone 70% for business and 30% personal, you can deduct 70% of those costs. Just make sure you can justify the percentage if asked. For payment processing fees, absolutely deduct them all! Those PayPal/Stripe/credit card fees add up quickly and are 100% legitimate business expenses. Don't forget the monthly fees plus the per-transaction percentages. Many new business owners miss these, but they can easily add up to thousands of dollars in deductions over a year.
Have you considered hiring a CPA? I know it seems like an unnecessary expense, but when I started my business I tried doing it myself and missed so many deductions. I paid $350 for a CPA who specializes in small business taxes and she saved me over $8,000 in taxes my first year! She knew exactly what was deductible and what wasn't for my industry, plus gave me a system for tracking expenses throughout the year that made the next tax season super easy.
We had something similar happen a few years back. If you want to avoid having your refund taken again this year, you might want to adjust your withholding so you don't overpay throughout the year. That way, you won't have a refund for them to take! My husband and I changed our W-4s after this happened to us, and now we either break even or owe a small amount at tax time. Then we just make a payment for exactly what we owe. This gave us more money in our paychecks throughout the year AND prevented the IRS from automatically taking a big chunk for past debts. We set up a payment plan for the old debt instead.
Doesn't that strategy risk owing penalties if you end up owing too much at tax time? I thought there were rules about having to pay enough throughout the year.
You're right to be concerned about that! You do need to be careful not to underwithhold too much. The general rule is you need to pay at least 90% of your current year tax liability OR 100% of last year's tax liability (110% if your income is over $150,000) through withholding and estimated payments to avoid underpayment penalties. What we did was calculate it pretty closely so we'd either get a very small refund or owe just a little bit. This way we avoided the penalties while also preventing large refunds that would be automatically applied to old debts. It takes a bit more planning, but the IRS has a good withholding calculator on their website that helps make sure you're still meeting the requirements.
Has anyone figured out if the statute of limitations applies to these shared responsibility payments? I thought most IRS debts had a 10-year collection period. Since this is from 2016, would they only be able to collect until 2026?
Yes, the standard 10-year statute of limitations for IRS collections does apply to shared responsibility payments. The clock starts ticking from the date the tax was assessed, not the tax year itself. So if the assessment happened in 2017 for a 2016 tax issue, the IRS would have until 2027 to collect. Keep in mind that certain actions can extend this timeline, like if the taxpayer requests a payment plan or submits an offer in compromise. But barring any extensions, the IRS generally has 10 years to collect on this type of debt.
Something else to consider - you might need to make quarterly estimated tax payments going forward. When you're self-employed, you're supposed to pay taxes throughout the year (similar to withholding for W-2 employees). If you wait until tax time to pay everything, you might get hit with underpayment penalties on top of your tax bill. The IRS generally wants you to pay at least 90% of your current year's taxes or 100% of last year's tax liability through estimated payments to avoid penalties. I learned this the hard way my first year freelancing. Got hit with an extra $300 in penalties because I didn't know about quarterly payments. Just something to keep in mind for next year!
Oh no, I had no idea about quarterly payments! How do you even calculate how much to pay each quarter when freelance income is so unpredictable? Do you just guess?
You don't have to guess exactly. The IRS allows you to use the "annualized income installment method" for irregular income. Basically, you calculate your tax based on what you've earned so far in each quarter. Most tax software can help you calculate this, or you can use the IRS Form 1040-ES worksheet. Another approach is to set aside a percentage of each payment you receive (maybe 25-30%) in a separate savings account. Then use that to make your quarterly payments as best you can estimate.
Have you looked into whether you qualify for the Earned Income Tax Credit (EITC)? At your income level, especially if you have any dependents, this could make a big difference. It's a refundable tax credit designed for lower to moderate income workers. Also, don't forget to check if your state has additional self-employment taxes or potentially tax credits that might help offset some of the federal burden. Some states are much more friendly to small business owners and freelancers than others.
Something important that others haven't mentioned yet: If you do a disqualifying disposition, your employer will probably report the income differently than you might expect. For a disqualifying disposition, the "spread" (difference between exercise price and FMV at exercise) will typically be reported as wages on your W-2. Many people get confused when they see this additional income on their W-2 and don't understand where it came from. If you sell below the FMV from when you exercised, you'll report a capital loss on Schedule D. If you sell above the FMV from when you exercised, you'll report a capital gain. Make sure to keep VERY detailed records of all your transaction dates, prices, and amounts. This has saved me countless headaches when tax time comes around.
How exactly does the employer know you did a disqualifying disposition? I'm confused about the reporting requirements here. Do you have to tell them when you sell the shares?
Your brokerage is required to report transactions back to your employer for ISO shares. When you exercise ISOs, the shares are typically "marked" or tracked in a special way. When you sell them, your employer is notified of the sale and can determine if it was a qualifying or disqualifying disposition based on the holding periods. This is why it's generally not possible to "hide" a disqualifying disposition from your employer. They'll find out and will include the income on your W-2. This coordination happens behind the scenes between your brokerage and your employer's equity administration team.
Simple advice from someone who screwed this up: PLEASE track your cost basis carefully for each batch of ISOs you exercise. I exercised options over several years at different prices, sold some in disqualifying dispositions, held others, and then had a complete mess at tax time. I'd recommend using a spreadsheet to track: - Grant date - Exercise date - Exercise price - FMV on exercise date - Sale date (if applicable) - Sale price (if applicable) - AMT paid (if applicable) Your brokerage statements often don't show the complete picture, especially related to AMT adjustments. I spent nearly 20 hours reconstructing all my transactions when I could have just kept a simple log from the beginning.
This is super helpful! I definitely need to start tracking this better. Do you have a template or example spreadsheet you could share?
I don't have a shareable template, but here's what my tracking columns look like: Grant date | Vest date | # of options | Exercise date | Exercise price | FMV at exercise | Total exercise cost | Exercise spread | AMT paid | Sale date | Sale price | Holding period | Tax treatment (qualified/disqualified) I also include a notes column for things like "partial sale of 50 shares" or "used AMT credit this year for shares exercised in 2023" etc. The most important thing is just to start tracking now before it gets complicated. Even a simple spreadsheet is better than trying to reconstruct everything later from brokerage statements.
Yara Khalil
Another strategy you might consider is timing your deductions. You could potentially still take the deductions but spread them out differently. Maybe take fewer deductions in the year before applying for your mortgage, then take more the following year to balance things out. That way you show higher income for the mortgage qualification but don't completely give up the tax benefits long-term.
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Keisha Brown
ā¢Does this actually work with mortgage lenders though? Don't they usually look at 2 years of tax returns? I wonder if they'd notice the pattern and question it.
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Yara Khalil
ā¢It can work depending on the lender and your specific situation. You're right that they typically look at 2 years, but many put more emphasis on the most recent year, especially if your income is trending upward. The key is to be strategic and consistent. Don't make it look like you're manipulating numbers - instead, make legitimate business decisions about when to make major purchases or when to defer income. For example, delaying some business purchases until after you close on the home is completely legitimate. Lenders understand that self-employed income fluctuates naturally.
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Paolo Esposito
Don't forget about self-employment taxes! If you choose not to take deductions, you'll pay more in income tax AND self-employment tax. For every $1000 in additional profit you show, you'll pay an extra $153 in SE tax (15.3%) plus whatever your income tax rate is. For most people that's at least another $120-220 per $1000 depending on your tax bracket. It adds up fast!
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Amina Toure
ā¢This is a really good point. When I did this last year, I was surprised how much extra I ended up paying because I forgot about the self-employment tax part. Definitely do the math carefully!
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