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Don't forget about depreciation when comparing rental properties! Property tax is just one piece of the puzzle. You can depreciate residential rental properties over 27.5 years, which is a huge deduction. So for your two examples, the property value (excluding land) would also factor in. A more expensive property would give you a larger depreciation deduction, which might offset some of the higher expenses.
How do you separate the value of the land from the building for depreciation purposes? I've always been confused about that part. My property tax statement doesn't break it down clearly.
Your property tax assessment should actually have this breakdown. Check your property tax statement or look up your property on your county assessor's website - most will show the land value separately from the improvements (building) value. If it's not clearly stated, a common method is to use the ratio that other similar properties in your area use. Your tax professional can help with this, or you can look at comparable properties with known land/building breakdowns.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet - which property do you think will appreciate more in value? That's a huge factor too. A property with higher taxes might be in an area with better schools or services, which could mean better appreciation over time.
This is a really good point. My rental in the high-tax suburb has appreciated WAY more than my rental in the low-tax area. After 5 years, the difference in appreciation has completely dwarfed any tax deduction differences.
One thing that hasn't been mentioned is that you should also consider your tax situation holistically. If you're consistently getting $12k refunds, it may not just be your W4 that needs adjusting. Do you have significant deductions that maybe aren't being accounted for in your paycheck withholding? Things like mortgage interest, charitable donations, or business expenses can dramatically affect your final tax bill. Also, if you've had major life changes (marriage, kids, buying a house), you should completely redo your W4 rather than just tweaking it.
I do have some substantial deductions - I own my home and have mortgage interest, plus I make regular charitable contributions. I also contribute the max to my 401k. Would all of these affect how I should fill out my W4? I'm not married and don't have kids, so I'm filing as single.
Yes, those substantial deductions are likely a big part of why you're getting such large refunds! The default withholding calculations don't account for itemized deductions like mortgage interest and charitable contributions. Your 401k contributions should already be excluded from your withholding calculations automatically since they're pre-tax, but the itemized deductions need to be handled separately on your W4. You should enter the approximate amount of your itemized deductions that exceed the standard deduction on line 4(b) of your W4. This will reduce your withholding to account for these deductions.
Has anyone actually used the IRS's Tax Withholding Estimator on their website? I found it super helpful for figuring out my W4. It asks you questions about your tax situation and then gives you the exact numbers to put on each line of the W4. Totally free too.
One thing to know - if you voluntarily file before the IRS comes after you, you might qualify for penalty abatement under their First Time Penalty Abatement policy. I was in the same boat a few years ago and called after getting my penalty notice. They removed about $2000 in penalties because I had a good history of filing on time before that. You have to specifically ask for it though - they definitely won't offer it automatically!
That's super helpful - thank you! Do you remember what you had to say exactly? Was it complicated to get the abatement?
It was pretty straightforward! I just called and said "I'd like to request first-time penalty abatement under the IRS administrative waiver" and explained that I had a good history of filing and paying on time before my late return. The agent asked a few questions to verify my eligibility and processed it right on the call. The main requirements are that you've filed (or had valid extensions) for the past 3 years and paid (or arranged to pay) any tax due, and haven't had another penalty in the past 3 years. Since you're filing voluntarily before they contacted you, that works in your favor too. Just be polite and direct when asking for it.
Don't mail your payment with your return! File the return but pay online through IRS Direct Pay. I learned this the hard way with a late 2019 return - mailed check got separated from my return and I got hit with even more penalties while they sorted it out.
This is great advice. Also make sure you print out confirmation of your online payment and keep it forever. I had the IRS claim they never received a payment I made online in 2022, but luckily I had screenshots of the confirmation.
Just wanted to add that the IRS actually addressed this exact situation in Publication 556. For extremely minor corrections that don't change your tax liability, they generally don't require an amendment. The key factor is whether the difference changes what you owe or get refunded. Keep both 1099 forms in your records for at least 3 years just in case, but honestly, for a few cents difference, even if you were audited (super unlikely), they'd just note it and move on. They're looking for significant discrepancies, not pennies.
Can you cite the specific section in Pub 556 that says this? I've read through it before and don't remember seeing anything about a minimum threshold for corrections.
You're right to ask for the specific reference - I should have been more precise. It's not explicitly stated as a threshold in Pub 556, but rather implied in their discussion of materiality in Section 4 where they discuss examination procedures. The more direct guidance actually comes from internal IRS procedural guidelines where they discuss "de minimis" errors. While they don't publish an exact dollar amount, in practice they rarely pursue differences that don't affect tax liability calculations or result in changes less than a dollar.
Does anyone know if there's a way to tell turbotax to just import the updated form without doing a whole amended return? Feels like there should be a simple fix option for this exact situation!
Unfortunately there's no "simple fix" option in TurboTax for this. Once you've filed, any changes require a formal amendment. That's why they make you wait until late March - they're setting up their amendment system for the new tax year.
Scarlett Forster
Another tip - take pictures of EVERYTHING before you mail it. Last year I had to prove what I sent and thankfully had photos of all my documents. Also write down the certified mail tracking numbers somewhere safe in case you lose the receipt.
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Ryder Everingham
ā¢That's really smart! Should I also make photocopies or are pictures enough? And should I mail it from the post office or can I just drop it in a mailbox?
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Scarlett Forster
ā¢Pictures are generally enough if they're clear and show all the information, but if you want to be extra cautious, photocopies are good too. Personally, I just take clear photos of each page with my phone and save them in a dedicated folder. I strongly recommend going to the post office counter rather than using a dropbox, especially for tax documents. At the counter, you can get a stamped receipt with the tracking number. For something as important as your tax return, that extra confirmation is worth the few minutes in line.
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Arnav Bengali
My advice is to try again with e-filing! You don't actually need last year's AGI if you never filed before or can't access it. There's usually an option to enter "0" or check a box that says you didn't file last year. Much faster for getting your refund (about 21 days vs 6-8 weeks for paper returns).
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Sayid Hassan
ā¢This is actually correct! I work as a tax preparer and there should be an option to indicate you don't have last year's AGI. Which software are you using? I can tell you exactly where to look for this option.
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