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I was in the exact same boat last year! Made like $275 with Uber Eats. If you have other income from W-2 jobs, you can actually report this small amount on Line 8z of Schedule 1 (Additional Income and Adjustments to Income) labeled as "other income" and briefly describe it as "gig work" or "delivery income" - no Schedule C needed if you're not claiming any expenses. But if you want to deduct your mileage (which you probably should), then yeah, you'd need Schedule C and most free versions don't support that. FreeTaxUSA is your best bet - totally free for federal filing including Schedule C, you only pay like $15 for state filing.
Can you really put it on line 8z though? I thought all self-employment income HAD to go on Schedule C regardless of the amount? That's what my friend who does accounting told me.
For very small amounts without expenses, the IRS has allowed this simplified reporting method. If you're claiming expenses though (like mileage), you absolutely need Schedule C. I should clarify though - the "proper" way is Schedule C, and that's what most tax pros will recommend to be 100% compliant. The line 8z approach is more of a practical solution for tiny amounts where you're not claiming deductions. Schedule C is definitely the correct technical answer for any self-employment income.
Has anyone actually got audited for not reporting a tiny amount like this? I made $180 from Doordash last year and just didn't bother reporting it... am I going to jail lol?
The chances of being audited for missing $180 are extremely low, but technically yes, you're supposed to report all income. The IRS generally has bigger fish to fry than chasing tiny unreported amounts, but it's still not the right approach. Maybe report it correctly this year?
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I think there's a simple explanation for all this. The IRS probably assumes everyone knows the formula is: 1. Subtract your MAGI from the phase-out ceiling 2. Divide by the phase-out range ($20,000) 3. Multiply by the maximum contribution For 2023: ($136,000 - your MAGI) ÷ $20,000 × $6,500 = your deduction For 2024: ($143,000 - your MAGI) ÷ $20,000 × $7,000 = your deduction That's why being $0.01 over the threshold with the old formula feels so harsh - because the old formula was simplifying this calculation for the specific $6,000 limit.
Thank you! This makes perfect sense and matches what I was expecting the formula would be! I've been driving myself crazy with spreadsheets trying to figure this out. So basically, the formula is proportional to where you fall in the phase-out range, and the multiplier changes based on the contribution limit. That would explain why the TIAA calculator was giving different results than my calculations using the 0.3 factor from 2022.
Exactly! The IRS documentation just hasn't caught up with the contribution limit increases. The key insight is that the phase-out is designed to be linear across the MAGI range, so you need to adjust the multiplier whenever the contribution limit changes. It's frustrating that they don't explain this clearly, but at least now you can plan appropriately for your 2023 and 2024 contributions. And remember this formula will likely change again whenever they next increase the contribution limits!
Has anyone noticed that the Retirement Savings Contributions Credit (Saver's Credit) also has updated income thresholds for 2023 and 2024? This can be relevant if you're in the phase-out range for IRA deductions, as you might still qualify for this credit depending on your income level. For 2023, the income limit for married filing jointly is $73,000, and for 2024 it's $76,500. Just something to consider as part of your overall retirement savings strategy if your MAGI is in that range.
Good point! Do you know if the Saver's Credit can be claimed for Roth IRA contributions? If I end up putting some money in Roth because I'm in the traditional IRA phase-out range, can I at least get the Saver's Credit for those contributions?
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Make sure to check if you're eligible for what's called a "partial exclusion" due to unforeseen circumstances. IRS Publication 523 specifically mentions divorce as a qualifying event. The calculation would be: (months you owned and lived in home ÷ 24) × $250,000 So if you lived there 10 months: (10 ÷ 24) × $250,000 = $104,166 exclusion With your gain being so small after seller costs, this partial exclusion would likely cover all of it, meaning zero tax owed. TurboTax probably isn't capturing this special circumstance correctly.
This is really helpful! Is this something I need to manually override in TurboTax? Or is there a specific section where I should be entering this information?
In TurboTax, you need to look for the section about "home sale" or "sale of home" and there should be questions about how long you owned and used the home. When it asks why you sold before meeting the 2-year requirement, select "divorce" or "unforeseen circumstances." If you can't find this option, you might need to use the "form view" rather than the interview format. Look for Form 2119 in TurboTax. If you're still having trouble, the "Help" search function in TurboTax and searching for "partial exclusion" should guide you to the right section.
One thing nobody's mentioned - make sure you're only reporting YOUR share of the sale on your taxes! If you owned it 50/50 with your ex, you should only be reporting half the purchase price, half the selling price, and half the expenses. This alone could be causing the calculation to be way off.
This! When I got divorced last year, my accountant made this exact point. Each person files their own portion. Your gain would be even smaller if split properly.
Thank you for pointing this out! I think this might be part of the problem because I was trying to figure out how to split everything in TurboTax and wasn't sure if I was doing it right. So I should be reporting only half of everything - half the purchase price, half the selling price, and half of all the associated costs?
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Another thing to consider is that your activity might be classified as a business rather than a hobby depending on how regularly you're doing this and how much profit you're making. The IRS has a "hobby loss rule" where if you don't show profit in 3 out of 5 years, they might classify it as a hobby and limit your deductions. In your case, since you're actually profiting after the cash back, you should probably treat it as a business. The upside is you can deduct legitimate expenses like maybe a home office portion, shipping costs, secure storage, etc. The downside is you'll need to pay self-employment tax on your profits.
That's a good point about the business vs. hobby classification. I'm definitely making a consistent profit when you factor in the cash back, and I've been doing this for about 2 years now. Do you think I need to register as an actual business in California, or is just filing Schedule C enough?
Filing Schedule C is enough for federal tax purposes, but California may have additional requirements. If you're operating as a sole proprietor (just yourself), you typically don't need a formal business registration with the state unless your local county/city requires business licenses for your type of activity. However, if your annual gross receipts are over $100,000, you might need to register for a seller's permit with the California Department of Tax and Fee Administration, even for gold coins. I'd recommend checking with your county clerk's office about any local business license requirements as they vary by locality. Better to be compliant from the start than face penalties later. Given the nature of dealing with valuable items like gold coins, being properly registered might also give your customers more confidence.
Just my 2 cents, but you should also look into whether your credit card company might issue a 1099-MISC if your cash back rewards exceed a certain threshold (usually $600). Some banks treat large rewards as miscellaneous income rather than rebates, especially for business cards. I had this happen with my Amex business card last year when I got like $800 in rewards from a similar type of reselling operation. The 1099 made it pretty clear I needed to report it as income.
This is incorrect. Cash back on purchases is considered a discount or rebate, not reportable income, even if it exceeds $600. Banks only issue 1099s for referral bonuses, sign-up bonuses, or interest income - not for cash back on purchases. The IRS views cash back as effectively reducing the purchase price.
Lauren Zeb
Don't forget about state filings too! Your S-Corp likely needs to file a state return in addition to the federal 1120-S. Many states have different deadlines and requirements, and some have minimum franchise taxes even if you didn't make any profit. I learned this the hard way my first year and got hit with penalties.
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Grace Lee
•Oh man, I completely forgot about state filings! I'm in California - do you know if they have different forms or deadlines than the federal?
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Lauren Zeb
•California is actually one of the toughest states for S-corps. You need to file Form 100S, and they have an $800 minimum franchise tax that you have to pay even if your business lost money. The deadline typically matches the federal (March 15), but the penalties for late filing can be significant. You should also check if you need to file a Statement of Information with the Secretary of State (Form SI-200) - that's separate from tax filings but required for corporations, usually due annually.
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Daniel Washington
One major thing nobody's mentioned yet - make sure you've been tracking and paying quarterly estimated taxes throughout the year. As an S-corp owner, the company's profits pass through to your personal return, but without withholding like a regular job. If this is your first year and you haven't been making estimated payments, you might get hit with underpayment penalties.
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Aurora Lacasse
•Is there any safe harbor provision for this? Like if it's your first year in business?
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