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Another strategy you might consider is timing your deductions. You could potentially still take the deductions but spread them out differently. Maybe take fewer deductions in the year before applying for your mortgage, then take more the following year to balance things out. That way you show higher income for the mortgage qualification but don't completely give up the tax benefits long-term.
Does this actually work with mortgage lenders though? Don't they usually look at 2 years of tax returns? I wonder if they'd notice the pattern and question it.
It can work depending on the lender and your specific situation. You're right that they typically look at 2 years, but many put more emphasis on the most recent year, especially if your income is trending upward. The key is to be strategic and consistent. Don't make it look like you're manipulating numbers - instead, make legitimate business decisions about when to make major purchases or when to defer income. For example, delaying some business purchases until after you close on the home is completely legitimate. Lenders understand that self-employed income fluctuates naturally.
Don't forget about self-employment taxes! If you choose not to take deductions, you'll pay more in income tax AND self-employment tax. For every $1000 in additional profit you show, you'll pay an extra $153 in SE tax (15.3%) plus whatever your income tax rate is. For most people that's at least another $120-220 per $1000 depending on your tax bracket. It adds up fast!
This is a really good point. When I did this last year, I was surprised how much extra I ended up paying because I forgot about the self-employment tax part. Definitely do the math carefully!
We had something similar happen a few years back. If you want to avoid having your refund taken again this year, you might want to adjust your withholding so you don't overpay throughout the year. That way, you won't have a refund for them to take! My husband and I changed our W-4s after this happened to us, and now we either break even or owe a small amount at tax time. Then we just make a payment for exactly what we owe. This gave us more money in our paychecks throughout the year AND prevented the IRS from automatically taking a big chunk for past debts. We set up a payment plan for the old debt instead.
Doesn't that strategy risk owing penalties if you end up owing too much at tax time? I thought there were rules about having to pay enough throughout the year.
You're right to be concerned about that! You do need to be careful not to underwithhold too much. The general rule is you need to pay at least 90% of your current year tax liability OR 100% of last year's tax liability (110% if your income is over $150,000) through withholding and estimated payments to avoid underpayment penalties. What we did was calculate it pretty closely so we'd either get a very small refund or owe just a little bit. This way we avoided the penalties while also preventing large refunds that would be automatically applied to old debts. It takes a bit more planning, but the IRS has a good withholding calculator on their website that helps make sure you're still meeting the requirements.
Has anyone figured out if the statute of limitations applies to these shared responsibility payments? I thought most IRS debts had a 10-year collection period. Since this is from 2016, would they only be able to collect until 2026?
Yes, the standard 10-year statute of limitations for IRS collections does apply to shared responsibility payments. The clock starts ticking from the date the tax was assessed, not the tax year itself. So if the assessment happened in 2017 for a 2016 tax issue, the IRS would have until 2027 to collect. Keep in mind that certain actions can extend this timeline, like if the taxpayer requests a payment plan or submits an offer in compromise. But barring any extensions, the IRS generally has 10 years to collect on this type of debt.
One important thing to mention - make sure you're using the RIGHT 1040-X form! The IRS updates these forms every year, and using an old version can cause delays. For tax year 2024 returns being amended in 2025, make sure you're using the 2024 version of Form 1040-X. Also, if your energy efficiency credits are for home improvements, double-check the manufacturer certifications. The IRS has been extra picky about those lately and will deny credits without proper documentation. I learned this the hard way!
Thanks for pointing this out! How do I know if I have the right certification from the manufacturer? I have receipts for my new heat pump and some documentation that came with it, but not sure if that's enough for the IRS.
The manufacturer documentation needs to explicitly state that the product qualifies for the federal tax credit. It should specifically reference the energy efficiency ratings or certification that make it eligible. Most major manufacturers provide downloadable tax credit certification letters on their websites. For heat pumps specifically, you need documentation showing the SEER2, EER2, and HSPF2 ratings that meet the minimum requirements set by the IRS. The installer should have provided this information, but if not, you can usually find it by searching your model number on the manufacturer's website and looking for their tax credit documentation section.
Just a heads up - I filed a 1040-X last year for energy credits and got a letter requesting more information about halfway through the process. Apparently they wanted more details about the installation costs vs. materials. If you have a contractor invoice, make sure it breaks down labor vs. materials separately!
This happened to me too! They also asked for proof that the installation was completed in the tax year I was claiming. Had to send in the final inspection document from my county building department.
You might want to look into the "Tax Benefit Rule" which sometimes allows you to take a deduction in a current year for something that happened in a prior year. It's not exactly what you're asking about, but in some cases it might help. Also, did you ever file an amendment for that 5-year-old return? Even if you're outside the 3-year window for getting a refund, having documentation that you attempted to correct it could help with penalty abatement on the current issue. The IRS sometimes considers your overall compliance history when deciding on penalties.
I never filed an amendment because I didn't realize the mistake until recently when I was going through old tax documents. Would it be worth filing one now even though it's past the 3-year window just to have it on record? Would the Tax Benefit Rule apply to capital gains from a home sale? I'm not super tax-savvy and trying to figure out if I should hire someone to help me fight this.
Filing an amendment now even though it's beyond the refund window could potentially help establish your good faith efforts to comply with tax law. While you won't get the refund, having it documented could support your case if you request penalty abatement for the current issue. The Tax Benefit Rule typically wouldn't apply directly to capital gains from a home sale in your situation. It's more relevant when you take a deduction in one year and then recover that expense in a later year. For your specific case, I'd recommend consulting with a tax professional who specializes in IRS disputes since there might be other strategies available based on your full tax history.
Has anyone successfully used an Offer in Compromise in this kind of situation? If the IRS is going back 7 years, that original amount plus penalties and interest could be pretty substantial now.
I used OIC last year for a similar situation and got my tax debt reduced by about 70%. But you have to qualify based on your income, assets, and ability to pay. It's not just available because you disagree with the assessment. And you'll need to be current on all your other tax filings to qualify.
Zoe Kyriakidou
Something important that others haven't mentioned yet: If you do a disqualifying disposition, your employer will probably report the income differently than you might expect. For a disqualifying disposition, the "spread" (difference between exercise price and FMV at exercise) will typically be reported as wages on your W-2. Many people get confused when they see this additional income on their W-2 and don't understand where it came from. If you sell below the FMV from when you exercised, you'll report a capital loss on Schedule D. If you sell above the FMV from when you exercised, you'll report a capital gain. Make sure to keep VERY detailed records of all your transaction dates, prices, and amounts. This has saved me countless headaches when tax time comes around.
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Jamal Brown
ā¢How exactly does the employer know you did a disqualifying disposition? I'm confused about the reporting requirements here. Do you have to tell them when you sell the shares?
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Zoe Kyriakidou
ā¢Your brokerage is required to report transactions back to your employer for ISO shares. When you exercise ISOs, the shares are typically "marked" or tracked in a special way. When you sell them, your employer is notified of the sale and can determine if it was a qualifying or disqualifying disposition based on the holding periods. This is why it's generally not possible to "hide" a disqualifying disposition from your employer. They'll find out and will include the income on your W-2. This coordination happens behind the scenes between your brokerage and your employer's equity administration team.
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Mei Zhang
Simple advice from someone who screwed this up: PLEASE track your cost basis carefully for each batch of ISOs you exercise. I exercised options over several years at different prices, sold some in disqualifying dispositions, held others, and then had a complete mess at tax time. I'd recommend using a spreadsheet to track: - Grant date - Exercise date - Exercise price - FMV on exercise date - Sale date (if applicable) - Sale price (if applicable) - AMT paid (if applicable) Your brokerage statements often don't show the complete picture, especially related to AMT adjustments. I spent nearly 20 hours reconstructing all my transactions when I could have just kept a simple log from the beginning.
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Mateo Rodriguez
ā¢This is super helpful! I definitely need to start tracking this better. Do you have a template or example spreadsheet you could share?
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Mei Zhang
ā¢I don't have a shareable template, but here's what my tracking columns look like: Grant date | Vest date | # of options | Exercise date | Exercise price | FMV at exercise | Total exercise cost | Exercise spread | AMT paid | Sale date | Sale price | Holding period | Tax treatment (qualified/disqualified) I also include a notes column for things like "partial sale of 50 shares" or "used AMT credit this year for shares exercised in 2023" etc. The most important thing is just to start tracking now before it gets complicated. Even a simple spreadsheet is better than trying to reconstruct everything later from brokerage statements.
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