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Have you looked into a disclaimer? In some cases, you can execute a qualified disclaimer of inheritance, which essentially says "I don't want this money" and it passes to the next eligible recipient. This has to be done within 9 months of death, and you can't have "accepted" the benefit (which might be an issue if you've already rolled it into your 401K). If the rollover is recent, talk to the plan administrator about possibly unwinding it, then execute a disclaimer. This might allow the money to go directly to her brother without passing through you.

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I think I've already missed that window since it's been about 11 months since her passing, and as you mentioned, I've already completed the rollover into my 401K. I feel like I should have researched this better before making the initial decision, but I was dealing with a lot emotionally and just followed what the HR person at her company suggested.

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That's understandable - these decisions often need to be made during difficult emotional times. Since the disclaimer option is no longer available, your best approach now is probably a combination strategy: First, designate her brother as the beneficiary for that portion of your 401K, ensuring he'll receive it if something happens to you. Then, work out a yearly gifting strategy once you're eligible for qualified distributions without penalties. You might also consult with an attorney about creating a simple agreement documenting your intentions, which could help clarify things for your own estate planning. Don't be too hard on yourself - you're trying to do the right thing in a system that doesn't make it easy.

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Check if your 401K plan allows for hardship withdrawals or loans. You could potentially take a loan from your 401K (typically up to 50% of the balance or $50,000, whichever is less), then use those funds to gift to the brother without the early withdrawal penalty. You'd have to repay the loan with interest, but the interest goes back into your account so you're essentially paying yourself.

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NeonNova

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This is actually not great advice. 401K loans become immediately due if you leave your job, and since OP is living overseas, that could be risky. Plus, if you can't repay the loan, it becomes a distribution with all the taxes and penalties. The gift tax concerns would still apply too.

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Zara Ahmed

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Have you looked into Wave Receipts? It's free and does a decent job for basic receipt tracking. I've been using it for my Etsy business for about a year. Not super fancy but gets the job done if you don't need all the bells and whistles.

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Does Wave let you export reports that work for tax filing? That's been my biggest pain point.

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Zara Ahmed

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Yes, you can export expense reports as PDFs or spreadsheets that work well for tax filing. The reports show all the transaction details and categories that match up with Schedule C. You can also generate specific date range reports, like quarterly or annual. The only limitation I've found is that the automatic categorization isn't always perfect, so I do have to go in and correct some entries occasionally. But for a free tool, it's pretty solid and has saved me tons of time compared to my old method of manually tracking everything in spreadsheets.

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Nia Thompson

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Whatever app you choose, make sure it backs up your data! I used a receipt app last year (can't remember the name) and it crashed/reset, losing 3 months of receipts. My tax preparer was NOT happy and I probably missed out on like $2k in deductions. Now I use one that syncs to my cloud storage automatically.

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Oof that's rough. What app are you using now that has the cloud sync? I travel a lot for work and my biggest fear is losing all my trip receipts.

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Yuki Ito

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Just to add another data point - I went through this exact situation last year. Owed about $5,800 and set up an installment plan with zero issues. The confusion might be about the different TYPES of installment plans. For amounts under $10,000, you qualify for a "guaranteed" installment agreement which is actually easier to get than plans for higher amounts. For amounts over $10K but under $50K, there's a "streamlined" installment plan which requires a bit more information but is still pretty straightforward. The agent your cousin spoke to might have been referring to some other program, or maybe was talking about an "offer in compromise" which is totally different - that's when you negotiate to pay less than the full amount owed.

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Carmen Lopez

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Do you remember what the monthly payment amount was for your $5,800 balance? I'm trying to figure out if they let you choose how much to pay each month or if they assign an amount.

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Yuki Ito

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You generally can choose your monthly payment amount as long as the debt will be paid off within the required timeframe. For amounts under $10,000, that timeframe is 3 years (36 months). So in my case, the minimum payment would have been about $161 per month not including interest and penalties. I actually opted to pay $200 per month to account for the ongoing interest and penalties and to clear the debt faster. They let me choose this amount during the application process. I set up direct debit from my checking account to avoid having to remember to make the payments and to get the lowest setup fee.

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Andre Dupont

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One important thing to note - if your cousin owes for the 2023 tax year and hasn't filed yet, he should still file by the deadline even if he can't pay everything! The failure-to-file penalty is much worse than the failure-to-pay penalty. Also, I'd recommend having him call back and speak to a different agent, or trying the online payment agreement system at irs.gov directly. The online system is actually pretty easy to use for amounts under $10K.

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Completely agree about filing on time! The failure-to-file penalty is 5% of the unpaid taxes for each month your return is late, up to 25%. The failure-to-pay penalty is much lower at 0.5% per month.

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Zara Rashid

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Thank you for pointing this out! He did file on time, he just couldn't pay the full amount at once. I'll definitely suggest he try the online system since that seems to be the consensus here - much easier than trying to call again.

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Cass Green

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Just FYI - 849 is not actually an IRS transaction code that appears on transcripts. The standard IRS transaction codes run from 000-899 but there is no 849. The common refund-related codes are: - 570: Additional account action pending - 571: Resolved account action - 846: Refund issued - 420: Examination/audit indicator - 971: Notice issued You might be looking at a different number, maybe on the WMR tool rather than your actual transcript. I'd recommend downloading your actual account transcript from the IRS website to see what's really happening.

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Myles Regis

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Omg you're right! I just double-checked my transcript and it's actually a 769 code, not 849. I totally misread it. Now I'm even more confused what that means. Is that better or worse than what I thought?

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Cass Green

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A 769 code typically indicates an earned income credit (EIC) claim on your return. This is just informational and shows the IRS has processed that part of your return. It's neither better nor worse than what you thought - it's just tracking different aspects of your return processing. What you should be looking for is either a 570 code (which would indicate a temporary hold) or an 846 code (which means your refund has been approved and issued). The 769 by itself just acknowledges your EIC claim was received and being processed. If you don't see a 570, that's actually good news - it means there's no specific hold on your account.

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Has anyone tried calling the Tax Advocate Service instead of the regular IRS number? I had a similar issue last year with a delayed refund and they were able to help me figure out what was happening when the regular IRS agents couldn't. Their number is 1-877-777-4778.

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Tax Advocate Service is only accepting cases with real hardships now - like you're about to be evicted or have utilities shut off. They won't help with just checking refund status. They're super backlogged and turned me away when I called last week about my delayed refund.

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Harper Hill

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4 You might want to look into claiming this as a business bad debt on Form 8949. I'm not an accountant, but I had to write off some unpaid invoices a couple years ago. The key distinction is whether you provided services (which it sounds like you did) or if you loaned money. Different rules apply to each situation.

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Harper Hill

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12 Thanks for the suggestion! Would I need any special documentation to prove I actually tried to collect the debt? I have the original contract, all my invoices, and email threads showing I tried to get paid multiple times.

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Harper Hill

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4 Yes, documentation is critical. Keep your original contract, all invoices sent, and especially any communications showing you attempted to collect payment. Also document how you determined the company was bankrupt and the debt uncollectible - like news articles about their shutdown, bankruptcy filings, or bounced emails to company addresses. Form 8949 is typically used for capital losses, but business bad debts can sometimes be reported as short-term capital losses. However, this really depends on your specific situation and whether you're using cash or accrual accounting.

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Harper Hill

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16 Wait, wouldn't this qualify as a 1099 situation? If they paid you $7,200, they should have sent you a 1099-NEC if it was over $600. Did you receive that form? Cause that affects how you report this whole thing.

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Harper Hill

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3 Good point! They definitely should have issued a 1099-NEC for payments over $600. If they didn't, you should still report the income you actually received, but that missing 1099 might be another sign the company wasn't following proper business practices.

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