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Another option nobody mentioned yet - you could make estimated quarterly tax payments to cover the difference. My wife and I do this for our investment income. We just send the IRS a payment each quarter using Form 1040-ES. It's pretty simple once you get the hang of it, and it prevents that shock at tax time. Plus, it helps avoid underpayment penalties if you owe a lot.
Would we calculate those quarterly payments just based on our investment income or would we need to factor in possible underwithholding from our regular jobs too? And is there some calculator to figure out how much to send each quarter?
You'd want to account for both the investment income and any potential underwithholding from your jobs. The simplest approach is to take what you owed this year (your $4,300) and divide by 4 - that would be roughly $1,075 per quarter. That's assuming your income situation stays similar. There's actually a worksheet in the Form 1040-ES instructions that helps you calculate exactly what you should pay. Alternatively, if you pay at least 100% of last year's tax liability (or 110% if your AGI is over $150,000), you're generally safe from underpayment penalties even if you end up owing more when you file.
Did you guys get any big one-time payments or bonuses? Those can be withhheld at a lower rate sometimes (like 22%) even if your actual top tax bracket is higher. Happened to me last year and threw everything off!
Another important thing to consider is that the sellers might not be too happy with your higher interest approach. They'll have to pay ordinary income tax rates on interest income rather than the generally lower capital gains rates on the sale price. Maybe you could meet in the middle? Structure it so some of the amount is principal (allowing them some capital gains treatment) and some is reasonable interest (giving you the deduction). The key is making sure the interest rate is defensible as commercially reasonable.
I hadn't thought about the tax implications for the sellers. Good point about finding a middle ground - maybe I can present both options to them and see which they prefer. What would be considered a reasonable balance? Like maybe 50/50 split between higher principal/lower interest vs. lower principal/higher interest?
There's no exact formula for the "perfect" balance, but I'd approach it by starting with market-rate interest for this type of seller financing (probably in the 8-12% range currently) and then calculate what that would look like over your loan term. From there, you could model a slightly higher interest rate (maybe 1-2% above market) and show the sellers both scenarios. The key is making sure whatever you decide can be defended as commercially reasonable if questioned. The sellers might actually prefer a slightly lower total payment amount with more characterized as principal rather than a higher total with more as interest, so be prepared to show them the after-tax impact of different structures.
Just a heads up, with business acquisitions like this, make sure you're looking at asset vs. stock purchase implications too! It can make a huge difference in depreciation/amortization deductions. My accountant told me I could have saved like $150k in taxes if I'd structured my purchase differently.
This is really important! I did an asset purchase for my business and got to write off way more than I would have with a stock purchase. The seller wanted stock sale for their tax benefits but we negotiated on price instead.
If you're still struggling with this, try contacting the Taxpayer Advocate Service. They're an independent organization within the IRS designed to help taxpayers resolve these exact kinds of issues. They can intervene when normal IRS channels aren't working. For electronic filing issues specifically, you might also want to check the IRS's e-file status lookup tool. Sometimes there are system-wide issues affecting amended returns that the IRS is aware of but hasn't publicly announced.
The Taxpayer Advocate Service sounds interesting - do you know how long it typically takes to get help from them? And would they be able to help with e-filing specifically or just general tax issues?
The Taxpayer Advocate Service typically takes 2-4 weeks to get assigned to your case, but they're absolutely able to help with e-filing issues, especially when there are technical barriers preventing you from filing correctly. They're particularly helpful in situations like yours where you're actively trying to comply with tax obligations but facing system limitations. For faster assistance, I'd recommend trying the solutions others mentioned first (different software or calling the IRS directly). The Taxpayer Advocate is great as a backup option if those routes don't work out. They can sometimes expedite processing of paper-filed amended returns in cases where e-filing isn't possible.
Have you tried using the "previous year AGI" workaround? Since you didn't file in 2020, try entering $0 as your prior year AGI. That's what worked for me. Also check if you're using the exact same name format as on your social security card. Sometimes even a missing middle initial can cause these rejections.
This is the correct answer! The IRS systems require a value for prior year AGI even if you didn't file. Using $0 is the standard workaround.
One thing nobody mentioned yet - make sure you're not confusing an HSA with an FSA! They sound similar but are totally different for tax purposes. HSA (Health Savings Account): - Stays with you forever, even if you change jobs - Contributions from both you and employer are tax-advantaged - Unused money rolls over year to year - Need a qualifying high-deductible health plan to contribute FSA (Flexible Spending Account): - Usually use-it-or-lose-it each year - Only available through employers - Different contribution limits - Different tax reporting requirements I've seen people try to deduct FSA contributions like they were HSA contributions and that can trigger big problems with the IRS!
This is such an important distinction! I messed this up one year and it was a nightmare to fix. Quick question - if you have access to both an HSA and FSA (limited purpose FSA), can you contribute to both in the same year? My benefits coordinator gave me conflicting info.
Yes, you can contribute to both an HSA and a Limited Purpose FSA in the same year. The key is that it must be a "Limited Purpose" FSA that only covers dental and vision expenses, not a regular medical FSA that covers all healthcare expenses. Regular medical FSAs would make you ineligible for HSA contributions, but the Limited Purpose FSAs are specifically designed to work alongside HSAs. This combination actually gives you the most tax advantages, as you can use the Limited Purpose FSA for immediate dental/vision needs while letting your HSA investments grow for future medical expenses.
For anyone still confused about HSA deductions, here's the simple version that helped me understand: 1) EMPLOYER CONTRIBUTIONS: Already tax-free, shown on W-2 Box 12 with code W 2) YOUR PAYROLL DEDUCTIONS: Already tax-free, also reflected on your W-2 3) YOUR PERSONAL CONTRIBUTIONS (from your bank account): These are the ones you claim as a deduction HSA Limits for 2023: - $3,850 for individual coverage - $7,750 for family coverage - Extra $1,000 allowed if you're 55+ TurboTax sometimes makes this more complicated than it needs to be!
The limits for 2024 are higher just fyi: - $4,150 for individual coverage - $8,300 for family coverage Plus still the +$1,000 for 55+ folks
Nina Chan
Have you checked the calculators on Fidelity or Vanguard's websites? I've found both to be pretty accurate for SEP IRA calculations. The Fidelity one in particular lets you input your self-employment income and automatically does all the adjustments for you. I've been using it for the past three years and the numbers always match what my tax software calculates later.
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Ella rollingthunder87
ā¢I tried the Vanguard one but got confused by some of the terminology they use. Does anyone know if the SE income they ask for is before or after business expenses? And do these calculators account for that reduction factor people mentioned above?
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Nina Chan
ā¢The SE income they ask for is your net profit from Schedule C - so that's after all your business expenses. And yes, both Vanguard and Fidelity's calculators do account for the reduction factor - they're calculating the actual 25% of your compensation after adjustments, not the simplified 20% rule of thumb. Most people get confused because the true formula is a bit circular (since your contribution impacts the base it's calculated on), but these big financial institutions have accurate calculators. Just make sure you're entering your net profit from self-employment, not your gross receipts!
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Ruby Knight
I'm an accountant and I made a simple Excel calculator for SEP IRA contributions for my clients. It's nothing fancy but it gets the job done. It includes the adjustment for self-employment tax and handles the circular calculation accurately. I'd be happy to share it if you DM me. No charge obviously, just pay it forward somehow!
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Diego Castillo
ā¢Could you maybe explain how the circular calculation actually works? I've been trying to understand it but getting confused. Is it because the SEP contribution itself reduces the income that the 25% is based on?
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