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Whatever you do, don't try to update your direct deposit info through email if anyone suggests that! My cousin got scammed this way last year - got an email claiming to be from the IRS about updating bank info for his refund. Turned out to be identity thieves. The IRS NEVER initiates contact through email about refunds or personal info. Just wait for the paper check like others have suggested. It takes a bit longer but it's the safest option at this point.
This happened to my mom too! She got a text message with a link to "update direct deposit info" and almost fell for it. These scammers know exactly when tax season is and target people waiting for refunds. The IRS will NEVER text or email you asking for bank information.
Has anyone had luck with calling the IRS Taxpayer Advocate Service instead of the main IRS number? I've heard they sometimes can help with refund issues if it's causing financial hardship.
The Taxpayer Advocate Service is really only for serious hardship cases or if you've tried multiple times to resolve an issue with the IRS without success. For a simple returned direct deposit that's being converted to a check, they probably won't take the case since the IRS has a standard procedure already in place.
Thanks for the clarification. Guess I'll just have to be patient and wait for the paper check to arrive. Seems like there's no way to speed up the process once the direct deposit has been rejected.
has anyone looked into municipal bonds? they're tax-free at the federal level and usually at the state level too if you buy in-state bonds. i put about 20% of my investments there and it helps lower my overall tax burden even though im a w2 employee.
Municipal bonds can be a good strategy, but remember they typically have lower returns compared to taxable investments. They make the most sense if you're in a high tax bracket. If you're in the 22% bracket or lower, you might actually come out ahead with taxable investments even after paying the taxes.
Don't forget that you should also look at state-specific tax minimization strategies. Some states have special deductions or credits that aren't available at the federal level. For example, my state offers a deduction for 529 college savings contributions that saves me about $400 per year in state taxes. Review your state tax forms or talk to a local tax pro about state-specific opportunities!
FYI - Medicare tax (the other part of FICA) doesn't have a cap like OASDI does. You'll keep paying that 1.45% no matter how much you earn. And if you make over $200,000 ($250,000 for married filing jointly), there's an additional 0.9% Medicare surtax on earnings above that threshold. Just something to be aware of when you're looking at your paycheck and wondering why some deductions stop and others don't!
Thanks for pointing that out! I was wondering why my paycheck summary shows both OASDI and Medicare as separate items. So even if OASDI stops after hitting the cap, the Medicare part (1.45%) continues indefinitely?
Yes, exactly! While the OASDI portion will stop once you hit the cap ($168,600 for 2025), the Medicare portion never stops. You'll continue paying the 1.45% Medicare tax on all your earned income regardless of how much you make. And if your income exceeds $200,000 for single filers or $250,000 for married filing jointly, you'll also pay that additional 0.9% Medicare surtax on the amount above those thresholds. This is part of the Additional Medicare Tax that was implemented as part of the Affordable Care Act.
Quick tip: if you want to estimate when you'll hit the OASDI cap, take your gross pay per paycheck and multiply by 6.2%. That's your OASDI contribution per pay period. Then divide the annual max ($10,453.20 for 2025) by that amount to see how many full paychecks it'll take to reach the cap. If you get paid biweekly and make $150k, each paycheck would have about $403 in OASDI tax. You'd hit the cap after about 26 paychecks, right at the end of the year.
This is helpful but what about if your income fluctuates? I get paid base + commission so each paycheck is different.
If you're just copying last year's return, be super careful about the tax brackets and standard deduction amounts! They change every year and using outdated numbers can really mess things up. I tried doing this last year and accidentally used the wrong standard deduction amount (I used $12,950 instead of the updated $13,850). Had to file an amended return which was a huge headache. Also double-check ALL your forms. I received a 1099-INT from a new bank account I opened that I almost forgot about. Little things like that can lead to nasty letters from the IRS later!
Thanks for the warning about the standard deduction amounts changing. I totally would have missed that! Do you think it's worth paying for basic tax software rather than literally copying from paper forms? It sounds like there are enough changes that I could mess up.
Honestly, I'd definitely recommend using software even if it's a basic version. The software will have all the updated numbers, forms, and will do the calculations for you which reduces math errors. Plus it will walk you through questions that might trigger you to remember things like "oh yeah, I did start that savings account" or whatever. Basic tax software is usually around $50-70 for federal and state, which is MUCH cheaper than the $800 you were quoted. It's a good middle ground between completely DIY paper forms and paying a professional. I use FreeTaxUSA now and it's been great - only about $30 total.
$800 seems crazy high unless you have a super complicated situation like multiple businesses, rental properties, or foreign income. I switched from an $350 tax preparer to doing it myself with TaxSlayer three years ago and my refund was actually HIGHER because the preparer had been missing some education credits I qualified for!
Did you find it difficult to switch to doing it yourself? I'm scared I'll mess something up and get audited.
Javier Morales
One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure to check if you need to file a Form 3520 (Annual Return To Report Transactions With Foreign Trusts and Receipt of Certain Foreign Gifts). The threshold for reporting foreign inheritances is pretty high though - $100,000 from a nonresident alien individual or foreign estate. Since your spouse was a US citizen, you likely don't need to file this form, but it's something to be aware of for others dealing with foreign inheritances.
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Zainab Mahmoud
ā¢Thanks for bringing this up! My understanding was that since my husband was a US citizen, I don't need to file Form 3520 even though the property is in the UK. Is that correct? Are there any other international forms I should be aware of besides FBAR and the Form 8938?
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Javier Morales
ā¢You're correct. Since your husband was a US citizen, you don't need to file Form 3520 for this inheritance, even though the property is located in the UK. The form is specifically for gifts or inheritances from foreign persons (non-US citizens/residents). Beyond FBAR (FinCEN Form 114) and Form 8938, you might want to be aware of Form 8833 if you're claiming benefits under the US-UK tax treaty, but that's typically not needed for straightforward inheritances. Also, if you maintain any financial accounts in the UK after settling the estate, remember you'll need to continue reporting those on FBAR and potentially Form 8938 in future years if they meet the threshold.
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Natasha Petrov
Just a heads up - I'm a dual citizen too and when I inherited from my UK family, I found that currency exchange rate timing can make a big difference. The IRS will want to see values converted to USD, but the rate fluctuates daily.
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Connor O'Brien
ā¢Good point! What exchange rate date did you end up using? Date of death, date of distribution, or something else?
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