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Some states don't have income tax at all, so you might not need to file depending on where you live. For example, I'm in Florida and we don't have state income tax, so I don't file a state return even though I have similar 1099 forms from investments. The states with no income tax are: Alaska, Florida, Nevada, South Dakota, Tennessee, Texas, Washington, and Wyoming. New Hampshire only taxes interest and dividend income.
I'm in Illinois, which definitely has state income tax unfortunately. So based on what everyone's saying, it sounds like I do need to file a state return even though all my income is from investments. Do you know if there's a minimum threshold for filing in states that do have income tax? Like if my investment income is pretty small, maybe I don't need to file?
Illinois definitely requires filing for investment income. Their threshold is pretty low too - I believe it's only $2,275 for single filers in 2024. If your total income from all sources (including those 1099 forms) exceeds that amount, you need to file. Even with relatively small investment income, you should still file. One benefit is that Illinois has a property tax credit that you might be eligible for, so you could actually get money back depending on your situation. Many people miss out on state tax credits because they incorrectly assume they don't need to file.
Probably a stupid question but how do investment apps even know which state to report your income to? I use Robinhood and Webull just like you and moved twice last year...
Not a stupid question! Investment companies report your info to the IRS with your SSN but don't actually determine which state you file in. They typically send 1099s with your federal info only. It's your responsibility to report that income on the correct state returns based on your residency.
Something nobody's mentioned yet - the parent who claims the child also gets to file as Head of Household (if they qualify otherwise), which is a better filing status than Single. Plus that parent might qualify for Earned Income Credit and Child Tax Credit. We're talking potentially thousands of dollars difference. If your ex files first and wrongly claims your child, you'll have to paper file, and it can take 6+ months to get your refund while the IRS sorts it out. Document EVERYTHING - school records showing your address, medical appointments you took the child to, daycare receipts, etc. Calendar entries and text messages discussing the schedule can help too.
Thanks for bringing up the Head of Household point - I didn't even think about that! Do I need any specific documentation to prove I qualify for that status? I'm worried that if I have to paper file, it's going to be a huge mess.
For Head of Household status, you need to show you paid more than half the cost of keeping up the home where your child lived for more than half the year. Keep records of rent/mortgage payments, utility bills, property taxes, food expenses, repairs, etc. Paper filing in these situations is unfortunately common. The key is sending a complete package - your tax return, a signed statement explaining the custody situation, and copies (not originals) of documents proving where your child lives. Include a cover letter referencing "dependent dispute" and attach any evidence that shows you're the custodial parent. It takes patience, but the IRS will sort it out if you have proper documentation.
Quick tip: if you receive any government assistance or benefits for your child (Medicaid, CHIP, food benefits, etc.), those records are GOLD for proving your case. The agencies that approve those benefits already verified your child lives with you. Also, Form 8332 was mentioned earlier - that's actually how you as the custodial parent can ALLOW the non-custodial parent to claim the child. If you never signed this form, and your child lives with you most of the time, you have the right to claim the child. Your ex filing first is just going to create headaches for both of you.
Would text messages where the other parent acknowledges the custody schedule help? I'm dealing with this right now and have tons of texts but no formal agreement.
Something similar happened to me but with Fidelity. Try checking if you had any wash sales during the year. Sometimes when you rebuy a position after selling at a loss, the holding period of the original purchase carries over to the new position in certain calculations. This is why sometimes a position held for just days shows up as long term. I'm not saying that's definitely what happened in your case, but it's worth checking your complete trading history to see if there were previous purchases of the same stock that might be affecting how this is reported.
I hadn't considered wash sales affecting the holding period classification! I'll definitely look back through my history to see if I had previous transactions in this stock. That actually makes a lot of sense because I was actively trading this particular ticker throughout the year, so there's a good chance I triggered some wash sales along the way. Would that really change the Form 8949 category though? I thought wash sales just affected the basis calculation, not the short-term/long-term classification.
Wash sales primarily affect your cost basis by disallowing the loss, but they can also affect holding periods in certain circumstances. If you repurchase shares within 30 days of selling at a loss, the holding period of the original shares can sometimes be added to the new shares. This is a complex area of tax law and brokers often handle it differently. Some brokers calculate everything properly, while others (especially the free trading apps) often make errors in reporting. Your situation sounds like a reporting error rather than a legitimate holding period adjustment, but it's always good to check your complete trading history to be sure.
This exact problem happened to me! It's because of lot relief methods. Did you ever select specific lots when selling partial positions? If not, Robinhood defaults to FIFO (first in, first out), but sometimes their system glitches and applies LIFO (last in, first out) or average cost. If you go to Account > Statements > Tax Documents > Trade Confirmations for 2023, you can see exactly which lots were sold with each transaction. Then compare that to the dates on your 1099-B.
This is the correct answer! Broker lot relief methods are often the source of these discrepancies. I work in accounting and see this constantly with clients who trade actively.
Just another thing to consider - since this is referral income, you might have some actual business expenses to deduct on your Schedule C. Do you drive to any of these referral jobs? Do you use your personal phone? Do you have any marketing expenses or business cards? All of that could be deductible and lower your taxable income.
Thanks for mentioning this! I do actually use my personal phone to coordinate with the cleaning company about the referrals, and sometimes I drive to meet potential referral clients to assess their needs before connecting them. Would those miles be deductible? And what percentage of my phone bill could I reasonably claim?
Yes, the mileage for driving to meet potential referral clients would absolutely be deductible! Keep a log of those trips with dates, miles driven, and purpose. The current mileage rate for 2025 is 67 cents per mile, which adds up quickly. For your phone, you would deduct the percentage that you use for business purposes. If you use your phone about 30% of the time for these referrals, then you could deduct 30% of your bill. Just make sure you have a reasonable basis for whatever percentage you claim and keep your phone bills as documentation. You might also consider a separate phone line for business if the volume increases.
James Martinez
One approach that saved me money is finding a "hybrid" solution. I use a regular CPA for most of my return ($350) and then pay an international specialist just to review and complete the specific foreign forms (paid $400 for just that part). Total was $750 instead of the $1800 I was paying before. Make sure your regular preparer is comfortable with this arrangement though. Some don't like having their work "checked" by another professional, while others are happy to collaborate if it means keeping you as a client for the parts they can handle well.
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Olivia Harris
ā¢This sounds smart but isn't there a risk of things falling through the cracks when two different people are working on your return? How do you make sure everything gets coordinated properly?
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James Martinez
ā¢Good question! The key is having a clear division of responsibilities. My CPA does all the domestic stuff first and completes a draft return. Then I send that to the international specialist who adds the foreign forms and makes any adjustments needed to the main forms. Communication is important - I set up an email thread with both of them so they can directly clarify anything if needed. I also pay the international person a bit extra to review the whole package at the end to make sure everything fits together. It's worked smoothly for 3 years now!
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Alexander Zeus
Has anyone tried the VITA program? They do free tax prep but I'm not sure if they handle international stuff like UK investments.
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Alicia Stern
ā¢VITA is amazing for basic returns but they absolutely will NOT handle foreign investments or rental properties. Their certification specifically excludes foreign income and most investment scenarios. They're trained to recognize when a return is out of scope and will refer you elsewhere.
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