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Just wanted to add - make sure you also check your state tax filing requirements! I caught up with federal but completely forgot about state taxes, and ended up with a nasty surprise from my state tax authority. Some states have different lookback periods and requirements than the IRS.
Good point! Do states typically have the same 3-year refund window as federal? And would penalties be similar if I did end up owing?
Many states follow the same 3-year refund window as the federal government, but there are definitely exceptions. For instance, some states like California can look back and collect for much longer periods than the IRS typically does. Regarding penalties, they vary widely by state. Some states have lower penalty rates than federal, while others can be more aggressive with collections for even small amounts. It's definitely worth checking your specific state's department of revenue website or calling them directly. In my experience, state tax agencies are actually often easier to reach by phone than the IRS.
Just a quick correction to some of the advice here - while FAFSA typically uses the prior-prior year tax info, they can sometimes request verification of tax filing status or request tax transcripts for other years if there are discrepancies or if you're selected for verification. Being compliant with all filing requirements can make the financial aid process smoother if you get flagged for additional review.
This is accurate. I work in a financial aid office, and we do occasionally request tax transcripts for verification purposes. While we primarily use the prior-prior year for determination, having unfiled taxes can sometimes create issues during verification or if there are special circumstances reviews.
My dad is an estate attorney and deals with this all the time. Here's what he always tells clients: The bank is following proper procedure - they literally cannot deposit a check made out to an estate into a personal account. It's not a matter of them being difficult; it's banking regulations. What you need is: 1) Apply for an EIN for the estate (free on IRS website) 2) Take EIN and death certificate to bank 3) Open estate account 4) Deposit check 5) Transfer money to heirs 6) File final 1041 for estate showing $0 tax (inheritance not taxable) 7) Close account The confusion comes from mixing up banking requirements vs tax implications. You need the estate account to deposit the check, but that doesn't make the money taxable.
Thank you so much for breaking it down like this!! This makes perfect sense now. I was getting so confused because our accountant kept saying "inheritance isn't taxable" (which seems correct) but wasn't addressing the actual problem of how to deposit the check. I just got the EIN online following your steps and have an appointment with the bank tomorrow to open the estate account. Will the final 1041 be complicated to file? Or is it pretty straightforward since there's no tax due?
The 1041 for this situation is very straightforward. Since there's no income being generated by the estate (just passing through the inheritance), it's basically just identifying information and zeros for the income portions. Many people do it themselves for simple cases like yours. The form asks for the EIN, estate name, when it was opened/closed, beneficiaries, and income details. Since inheritance isn't income, you'll show the money coming in and going out to the heir(s) with no taxable amount. It's mainly filing it to show the IRS that the estate was opened and closed properly. Your accountant can do this very simply, or there are templates online if you want to DIY.
Just wondering - has anyone used TurboTax to file the 1041 for an estate? I'm in a similar situation and trying to figure out if I need to pay an accountant or if I can DIY it.
I used TurboTax Business for my mother's estate last year. It worked fine for a simple estate situation. The software walks you through all the questions and it's pretty straightforward if you're just dealing with passing inheritance through. Make sure you get the Business version though, the regular TurboTax doesn't do 1041s.
One thing to consider that nobody's mentioned yet - if you're doing a lot of crypto gambling, make sure you're keeping detailed records of your deposits and withdrawals. I got audited last year because the IRS saw large movements of crypto into my wallet but couldn't identify the source. Had to prove it was gambling winnings and not unreported income from selling services or goods. The annoying part was showing the trail from gift cards to gambling site to crypto withdrawal. Take screenshots of everything!
This is why I always take the extra step to get a win/loss statement from gambling sites that offer them. Does your crypto gambling site provide any kind of statement or summary you can download for tax purposes?
Most legit crypto gambling sites do offer some form of win/loss statement or transaction history you can download. It's not always as detailed as traditional casinos, but it's better than nothing. For sites that don't provide good documentation, I've started keeping a spreadsheet with dates, amounts, screenshots of balances before and after significant wins/losses, and the withdrawal transactions. The more documentation you have linking the gambling activity to the crypto you received, the easier it is if questions come up later.
Quick technical note - when you record this in most tax software, you'll want to enter it as: 1. Gambling income (which you've done) 2. A "buy" transaction for the ETH with a cost basis equal to the USD value of your withdrawal at that exact time 3. Any subsequent sales of that ETH would then generate capital gains/losses Your $101 loss means the ETH decreased 10.1% in value since you received it (assuming you withdrew about $1000 worth). Seems reasonable depending on when this happened and market conditions.
Thanks for breaking it down like this! The gift card to gambling site to ETH withdrawal path had me so confused. And yes, it was about $1000 worth when I cashed out, so the 10.1% decrease tracks with the market dip after I withdrew. I'm going to double check the exact date and ETH price to make sure my software has it right.
Something nobody's mentioned yet - if your income is low enough to not require filing, you might want to consider an IRA instead of the 401k. Specifically, look at the Saver's Credit (also called Retirement Savings Contributions Credit). If your AGI is below certain thresholds, you could get a tax credit for retirement contributions. The catch is you DO need to file taxes to claim this credit, but it might be worth it financially. Run the numbers both ways to see if the credit would be more valuable than the simplicity of not filing.
Thanks for bringing this up! Would the Saver's Credit still apply if I'm being claimed as a dependent though? I thought I read somewhere that dependents aren't eligible.
You're absolutely right - I should have clarified that important detail. Dependents are NOT eligible for the Saver's Credit, regardless of their income level. So in your specific situation, this wouldn't apply while you're being claimed by your parents. Once you're no longer a dependent, definitely look into this credit as it could give you a nice tax break for your retirement contributions. But for now, your original approach makes sense - contribute to get that employer match without complicating your tax situation.
In your situation, I'd definitely recommend contributing at least the 6% to get the full employer match. Even though it's only a 0.5% match (which is admittedly on the lower side), it's still literally free money. Think of it this way - an immediate 0.5% return on your investment before it even starts growing! Also, since you mentioned it's a Roth 401k, you're paying taxes upfront, but all the growth will be tax-free when you withdraw in retirement. At your age, that's potentially 40+ years of tax-free growth, which is HUGE.
The match is definitely worth taking advantage of, but I think OP should clarify what they mean by "matches .5% up to 6%". That wording is confusing. Usually employers say something like "50% match up to 6% of your salary" meaning if you put in 6%, they add 3%. A ".5% match up to 6%" would be extremely low if literal.
Freya Christensen
Have you considered the actual Standard Mileage Rate instead of tracking actual expenses? For 2023 it's 65.5 cents per mile for business use. This includes ALL vehicle costs including fuel (or in your case, electricity). Much simpler than tracking individual expenses.
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Amina Diallo
β’I did think about the standard mileage deduction, but from what I've calculated, the actual expense method will probably be more beneficial in my case. I drive the EV almost exclusively for business, and with the depreciation of the vehicle plus all the other expenses, I think I'll come out ahead with actual expenses. But you're right that standard mileage would definitely simplify things!
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Omar Farouk
β’The standard mileage rate doesn't actually work well for EVs in many cases. It was designed around gas vehicles and their maintenance costs. EVs have higher upfront costs but lower per-mile costs, so you might be leaving money on the table using standard mileage.
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Chloe Davis
Slightly off topic but make sure you're also claiming the EV charger installation cost as a business expense if you haven't already! I was able to deduct 80% of my Level 2 charger installation since I use my car primarily for business. Saved me about $800 in taxes last year.
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AstroAlpha
β’What documentation did you need to prove the business use percentage? I'm getting a charger installed next month and want to make sure I have everything ready for tax time.
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