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Another option is to use the IRS Free File Fillable Forms. It's completely free no matter what credits you qualify for. The downside is that it's basically like filling out paper forms but on a computer - there's minimal guidance. But if you're fairly comfortable with taxes and just need to claim the Retirement Savings Credit, it might be worth looking into.
Does the IRS Free File Fillable Forms have any income limits? I make around $85k and often get locked out of the "free" options.
The Free File Fillable Forms have no income limits at all - they're available to everyone regardless of income. That's different from the IRS Free File Program partners (like TurboTax Free File, etc.) which typically have a $73,000 income limit. The trade-off is that Fillable Forms provide no guidance or calculations - you're basically just filling in digital versions of the paper forms. You need to know which forms to complete and how to do the calculations yourself. Form 8880 for the Retirement Savings Credit isn't terribly complicated though, especially if you're just claiming for yourself and spouse.
Just so you know, the Retirement Savings Contributions Credit phases out at higher income levels. If you're married filing jointly, it starts phasing out at $43,500 and completely disappears at $73,000 (for 2023 taxes). For singles, it phases out between $21,750-$36,500. Are you sure you actually qualify? If you're right on the edge, maybe double-check your AGI calculation. You might not actually qualify for the credit, which would solve the problem entirely.
A quick tip from someone who files extensions EVERY year - if you're really stuck, just pay MORE than you think you'll owe. The IRS is happy to return your overpayment when you finally file. I always add about 20% to my estimate as a buffer. Yes, you're giving the government an interest-free loan, but the peace of mind knowing you won't face penalties is worth it to me. I'd rather get money back than worry about underpaying.
But what if you really need that money in the meantime? Not everyone can afford to overpay by 20%. Wouldn't it be better to try to get it right?
That's a totally valid point. It really depends on your financial situation. If cash flow is tight, then absolutely try to be more precise with your estimate. Use your previous year's return as a guide and adjust for any major changes in income or deductions. For those who can swing it though, overpaying provides a stress-free extension. Another approach is to aim for that 90% threshold mentioned earlier - pay enough to cover 90% of your expected tax, which should protect you from the more significant penalties. Either way, the key is making a reasonable effort to estimate correctly based on the information you have at the time.
Don't forget that each STATE has different rules for extensions too! The federal extension doesn't automatically apply to state taxes. Check your state's requirements separately. I learned this the hard way last year when I got hit with state penalties even though I had a federal extension. Some states require their own extension forms, and some don't give extensions for payment at all, just for filing.
This is so important! I made this mistake with California taxes and ended up with penalties. Does anyone know a good resource that breaks down the requirements by state?
Don't stress OP, I didn't file my first tax return until I was 24! The good news is that if you've had taxes withheld from your paychecks (which you probably have), you're most likely owed money back. That's what a tax refund is. The easiest way to start is to use a free tax filing service like FreeTaxUSA or Cash App Taxes (used to be Credit Karma Tax). You literally just input the info from your W-2 forms and answer some basic questions. Grab those forms from your drawer and get started! For past years, you'll need to file separately for each year you missed. The tax software will have options for filing prior year returns.
Wait so I should use different software for the current year vs previous years? I'm trying to understand the process of catching up.
You can use the same software for all years, but you'll need to file each year separately. Most tax software has options for filing prior years. You'll just need to make sure you're using the correct forms for each tax year. When you start the process, you'll usually see an option like "File 2024 taxes" or "File for a previous year." You would need to go through the whole process once for each year (2022, 2023, 2024). Just make sure you have the W-2 forms for each corresponding year since the numbers will be different.
The normal deadline is April 15th each year for the previous year's taxes (so April 15, 2025 for your 2024 taxes). But if you're owed a refund, you actually have 3 years to file before you lose the money. So right now in 2025, you could still file for 2022, 2023, and 2024. If you owe money instead of getting a refund, then filing late can result in penalties. But since you're just starting out and probably don't make a ton of money, it's very likely you'll get refunds.
Former tax professional here. A few things to consider: 1. Make sure you create and keep copies of everything - your W2s showing withholdings, the audit letter, and any responses. 2. If you do what the auditor suggests, get it in writing from them (email is fine) that they acknowledge your withholdings will be applied after the case is closed. 3. You might qualify for penalty abatement under First Time Penalty Abatement if you haven't had other penalties in the past 3 years. This is separate from the audit and you'd request it after the audit is closed. 4. The strangest part of your situation is that the tax preparer should have included your withholdings on the original return. This makes me wonder if they made other serious errors too.
Thank you for this advice! The preparer definitely made multiple errors - that's why I got audited in the first place. I'll definitely ask for written confirmation about the withholdings. Do I need to wait until after the audit is completely closed to request the First Time Penalty Abatement, or can I mention it to the auditor now?
You should wait until the audit is fully closed before requesting First Time Penalty Abatement. Auditors typically don't handle penalty abatement requests during the audit process. Once everything is settled and you've paid the adjusted amount, then submit your penalty abatement request. If you've had a clean compliance history for the past 3 tax years (no penalties), you have an excellent chance of getting the penalties removed. Just be aware this only applies to certain penalties like failure-to-file and failure-to-pay, not all audit-related penalties.
Did you sign the audit agreement yet? If not, you should specifically ask the auditor to note in the file that you had $18,500 in withholdings that should be applied to the $23,000 liability. While it's true another department handles this, having it documented by the auditor creates a paper trail.
This is important advice. I've been through an audit where information "got lost" between departments. Always get everything in writing and create documentation trails.
Cynthia Love
Just to add some additional info that might help - I'm a tax preparer and deal with this question a lot for rideshare drivers. Remember that Section 179 isn't your only option. You could also: 1) Take bonus depreciation instead of Section 179 (different rules apply) 2) Depreciate the vehicle over 5 years using MACRS 3) Use the standard mileage rate instead ($.655/mile for 2025) which is often better for many drivers For an $80k vehicle used 100% for rideshare, you need to consider what makes the most sense long-term. Also, be careful about the weight of the vehicle - SUVs over 6,000 lbs GVWR have different Section 179 limits than lighter vehicles.
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Darren Brooks
ā¢Is there a reason to choose regular depreciation over Section 179 if you can take the full amount? Seems like getting the deduction sooner would always be better?
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Cynthia Love
ā¢Great question! There are several reasons why you might choose regular depreciation instead of Section 179, even when you qualify for the full deduction. The biggest one is if your business income is relatively low compared to the vehicle cost. Taking the full Section 179 in year one could create a large business loss that might be limited in how it can offset other income. If you expect your rideshare income to increase in future years, spreading the deduction over time through regular depreciation might actually save you more in taxes overall. Also, if you're in a lower tax bracket now but expect to be in a higher bracket in future years, saving some depreciation for those higher-bracket years can be more valuable.
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Rosie Harper
Has anyone tried using TurboSelf-Employed for calculating these vehicle deductions? My vehicle is about $65k and I'm trying to figure out if the software handles Section 179 correctly when you have both W2 and 1099 income...
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Elliott luviBorBatman
ā¢I used TurboSelf-Employed last year for this exact situation. It does handle Section 179, but I found it doesn't explain the limitations very well. It will automatically apply the business loss limitations but doesn't really tell you why or how they work. I ended up having to do a bunch of research on my own to understand why I couldn't offset all my W2 income.
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