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Just to add another perspective - CRP could also stand for "Certified Retirement Planner" if your friend was talking about getting professional help with retirement tax planning. But that's a person, not a form you need to file!
That makes so much more sense! I think that's exactly what my friend was talking about - getting help from a retirement planner, not some tax form I was missing. This has been stressing me out for days! So just to confirm, for a normal contractor with 1099 income, I just need to file Schedule C with my regular tax return, right?
Exactly! As a contractor receiving 1099s, Schedule C is your main form for reporting business income and expenses. You'll also need Schedule SE for self-employment tax. Those are the standard forms for independent contractors. If you have a retirement account like a SEP IRA or Solo 401(k), you might have additional forms, but there's no specific "CRP" form involved in standard contractor tax filing.
Has anyone used the IRS Free File program for filing with self-employment income? I'm in a similar situation to OP and wondering if it handles Schedule C well or if I need to pay for additional software.
I used FreeTaxUSA last year for my Schedule C filing and it worked great. It's not part of the IRS Free File program, but it's only $15 for state filing and federal is free. Way cheaper than TurboTax and handled all my contractor income perfectly.
Have you tried entering identical information into a third software as a tiebreaker? I use TaxSlayer and it might help figure out which one is more accurate. When I had discrepancies last year, I tried a third option and found that two of them matched while one was off - made the decision much easier.
That's actually a really good idea! I hadn't thought of trying a third one as a tiebreaker. I'll give TaxSlayer a shot tonight and see if it aligns with either Keeper or FreeTaxUSA. I'm guessing if two of them match, that's probably the right calculation? Though with my luck all three will show different amounts lol.
Yeah, exactly - if two match and one is different, that's usually a good indication. And with three states and multiple 1099s, it's worth the extra effort to be sure. Just make sure you're entering everything identically in all three systems. I found sometimes even the order of entering certain forms can affect calculations in weird ways. Let us know which one ends up matching!
Has anyone noticed differences in how these tax programs handle QBI deductions specifically for multi-state 1099 work? That's been the biggest headache for me.
In my experience, TurboTax seems to handle the QBI (Qualified Business Income) deduction best for multi-state situations. I had issues with H&R Block last year where it wasn't properly allocating the QBI between states. Maybe try that as your third option?
Thanks for the tip! I didn't want to spend the money on TurboTax since it's so expensive compared to the others, but if it handles QBI better it might be worth it. Definitely seems like that could be part of my issue.
Has anyone tried just using TaxAct or TurboTax instead? I hit this same checkbox issue and after trying all the suggestions, I just gave up on Free File Fillable Forms and switched to TaxAct. Their free version handled everything I needed including the additional standard deduction for being over 65. Sometimes it's just not worth the headache dealing with these technical glitches when there are other free or low-cost options that actually work properly. I filed two weeks ago and already got my refund deposited yesterday!
I thought TurboTax and TaxAct only have free versions if your return is super simple? I have investment income and a home office deduction so I always assumed I'd have to pay for the premium versions. Did you have any complex situations on your return?
You're partly right - the completely free versions are limited, but they're more comprehensive than most people realize. I have some dividend income and capital gains, and TaxAct's free version handled those fine. For more complex situations like home office deductions, you might need to use their paid version, but it's still much cheaper than paying an accountant. I found that the Deluxe version was only around $25 when I started with the free version then upgraded only for the features I needed. Completely worth it to avoid the stress of technical glitches like that checkbox issue!
I actually called the IRS helpline directly about this issue (waited 1.5 hours ugh) and they confirmed it's a known error. The rep told me that despite the checkbox not working properly, the system will still process your return correctly IF you enter the correct standard deduction amount on line 12a. For anyone dealing with this, here's what you need to know: - If you're 65 or older OR blind, your additional standard deduction for 2024 taxes is $1,850 (single/HOH) or $1,500 (married) - If you're 65 or older AND blind, it's double those amounts - If both spouses are 65+ or blind, calculate accordingly Just add these to your base standard deduction amount on line 12a and you should be good even if the checkbox is broken!
Thanks for this info! One question - do you happen to know if the calculator in the forms is at least smart enough to add this automatically based on birthdate? Or do we need to manually do the math for line 12a?
The calculator doesn't automatically adjust for age or blindness since it relies on those checkboxes working properly. You'll need to manually calculate your standard deduction amount by adding your base standard deduction plus the additional amounts I mentioned. For 2024 taxes, the base standard deduction amounts are $14,600 for single/HOH, $29,200 for married filing jointly. So for example, if you're single and over 65, you'd manually enter $14,600 + $1,850 = $16,450 on line 12a. The system won't do this calculation for you because of the checkbox malfunction.
Something else to consider - don't forget about exemption certificates! If you're selling to businesses who are purchasing your products for resale, they might be exempt from sales tax. You need to collect and maintain valid exemption certificates from these customers. I learned this the hard way during a state audit. They wanted to see all my exemption certificates for the past 3 years and I hadn't been consistently collecting them.
Do you need to verify those certificates somehow? Or just keep them on file? I've had a few business customers claim they're exempt but I wasn't sure if I should just take their word for it.
You need to collect the actual certificate from them - don't just take their word for it. Most states have specific forms customers need to fill out. You should verify the certificate has all required information (their tax ID number, signature, etc.) and keep it on file. Some states also let you verify tax ID numbers on their websites. You don't need to send these certificates to the state, but you absolutely must have them available if you get audited. I now keep digital copies of all certificates in a dedicated folder so I can find them easily.
Has anyone used TaxJar or Avalara for managing sales tax? I'm trying to decide if I should just handle everything manually since I'm small or if one of these services is worth it?
I've used both. TaxJar is more affordable for small businesses but Avalara has more features if you're growing fast. With your sales level ($2,500/month), TaxJar's basic plan would probably be sufficient. The time savings is definitely worth it - it automatically files your returns in multiple states and keeps track of all the weird local tax rates.
Edward McBride
To answer your original question - yes, you absolutely need to report all crypto-to-crypto trades. BUT if you literally just bought Bitcoin and then immediately traded it for other coins without any significant price movement between purchase and trade, your gains/losses might be minimal or zero. The real question is: how many transactions are we talking about here? If it's just a handful, you could potentially just calculate them manually without paying for the premium feature. Figure out what you paid for the Bitcoin (cost basis) and what it was worth when you traded it for other coins.
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Marilyn Dixon
ā¢Thanks for the response! I probably have about 15-20 transactions total. Not a ton, but enough to be annoying to calculate manually. There were definitely price movements between when I bought the BTC and when I traded it... some trades I made when BTC was way up and others when it had dropped.
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Edward McBride
ā¢With 15-20 transactions and significant price movements, it's probably worth using either TaxAct's crypto feature or one of the specialized services others have mentioned. Trying to manually calculate 20 transactions with varying cost basis is error-prone and time-consuming. Make sure you also track the cost basis of those other coins you received in the trades, because when/if you eventually sell or trade those, you'll need to know what they were "worth" when you acquired them to calculate future gains/losses. This is where specialized crypto tax software really helps, as it maintains that chain of cost basis calculations.
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Darcy Moore
Dumb question maybe, but do we still need to report crypto if we're at a loss overall? I'm down like 40% from what I put in lol
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Dana Doyle
ā¢Yes, you should still report it. The silver lining is that those losses can offset other capital gains or up to $3,000 of ordinary income. So reporting your crypto losses could actually reduce your overall tax bill!
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