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Just to add more context to this discussion - I've been filing non-resident returns for years, and here's what you need to know: 1. The 25% withholding on property sales is under section 116 of the Income Tax Act 2. The T2062 allows for a reduction of that withholding based on the actual gain vs. gross proceeds 3. When filing the T1-NR, the actual gain goes on Schedule 3 4. The non-resident tax rate is a flat 25% on taxable Canadian property gains 5. Any withholding tax (minus amounts already refunded through the T2062 process) goes on line 43700 Make sure you also include form NR73 if there's any question about residency status, as the CRA is very strict about this.
Thank you so much! This breakdown is super helpful. Quick follow-up though - for the actual amount of withholding, should I be using what was initially withheld ($78k) or the net amount after they already got that partial refund through the T2062 process?
You should use the net amount after the partial refund. So if $78k was initially withheld but $22k was already refunded based on the T2062 adjustment, you'd report $56k on line 43700 as the withholding tax amount. The CRA system should already have a record of both the initial withholding and the T2062 adjustment, but I always recommend including a brief note with the return explaining these amounts to avoid any confusion during processing.
Is it necessary to file a provincial return as well for a non-resident property sale? My client sold property in BC and I'm not sure if I need to complete a separate provincial form or if it's all handled in the T1-NR.
For non-residents, you don't need to file a separate provincial tax return. The federal T1-NR handles both federal and provincial taxation. Non-residents pay a flat 25% federal tax on taxable Canadian property, with no separate provincial component. Just make sure you're correctly identifying the property's location on the return since this affects CRA's internal processing, but you won't need to complete any provincial-specific forms for a non-resident property sale.
Bit of practical advice from someone who's been in your situation - Goodwill and Salvation Army both publish donation value guides that the IRS generally accepts. I print these guides and use them as reference when documenting donations. For bulk donations, I sort items into categories (men's shirts, kitchenware, etc.) and count/estimate quantities. Then I take photos of everything sorted before loading it up. I made a simple spreadsheet template with common categories that I fill out for each donation trip. When tax time comes, I have a record of each visit with categories, quantities, and values that align with published valuation guides. Been doing this for years without issues.
That's really practical advice, thank you! Do you happen to have a link to these donation value guides? And what level of detail do you go into for categories? Like do you just say "men's shirts" or do you break it down further into "men's t-shirts" vs "men's dress shirts"?
Salvation Army's valuation guide is here: https://satruck.org/Home/DonationValueGuide and Goodwill has one but it varies slightly by region. I definitely recommend breaking categories down to a reasonable level - not just "men's shirts" but "men's t-shirts" vs "men's dress shirts" vs "men's polos" since they have different values. Same with women's clothing, children's items, etc. For household goods, I separate by room (kitchen, bathroom, decor). The key is finding the balance between being thorough without making it impossibly detailed. Taking photos of sorted piles with your phone works great as backup documentation. I've been through two minor IRS inquiries about my donations over the years and this system held up both times.
I'd be careful about claiming too much without proper documentation. My brother got audited for donation deductions and it was a nightmare! The IRS wanted receipts for EVERYTHING and they rejected his "estimates." They ended up disallowing like 70% of his claimed donations and hitting him with penalties. For bulk donations, the advice I got from my accountant was to take video walking through all items before donating, get detailed receipts, and keep a spreadsheet with conservative values. Better to claim less than you actually donated than risk an audit nightmare.
This is why I barely claim any donations anymore. The documentation requirements are insane and it's not worth the risk. I donate tons of stuff but usually just claim a token amount like $500 for the year. Peace of mind is worth more than the tax savings to me.
Just wanted to add some clarity on the 200DBHY methods you mentioned: 200DBHY-7 = 200% declining balance with half-year convention over 7 years (for office furniture) 200DBHY-3 = 200% declining balance with half-year convention over 3 years (for phone) 200DBHY-5 = 200% declining balance with half-year convention over 5 years (for computers) The reason your desk and MacBook showed $0 federal depreciation is almost certainly because of Section 168(k) bonus depreciation. For 2022 purchases, 100% bonus depreciation was available federally, meaning the full cost was deducted in year 1. But California doesn't conform to this federal provision. In FreeTaxUSA, you'll need to enter these as "existing assets" and make sure you input the correct "prior depreciation" amounts from your 2023 return. The software should then calculate the correct 2024 amounts for you.
Thanks so much for breaking down those method codes! That makes much more sense now. So if I understand correctly, my desk and MacBook were essentially "fully depreciated" for federal purposes in the first year because of the 100% bonus, but for California they're still on their regular depreciation schedules? When I enter these as existing assets in FreeTaxUSA, do I need to enter different prior depreciation amounts for federal vs state? Or does the software handle that difference automatically?
Yes, you've got it exactly right! For federal purposes, your desk and MacBook were fully depreciated in the first year thanks to 100% bonus depreciation available in 2022. But for California, they're following their normal depreciation schedules over 7 and 5 years respectively. FreeTaxUSA should handle the federal vs state difference automatically once you input the correct information. You'll want to enter the assets with their original acquisition dates, costs, and depreciation methods. For "prior depreciation," enter the cumulative federal depreciation taken to date (which would be the full amount for the desk and MacBook, and the partial amount for the iPhone). The software will then apply the correct state adjustments automatically. If you want to double-check the calculations, the state return should include a specific form showing the depreciation differences between federal and California.
Just sharing what I learned when I had a similar issue - the 200DBHY methods sometimes change rates during later years of depreciation. For example, with 200DBHY-5 (like your MacBook), it starts with 200% declining balance but switches to straight-line when that gives a larger deduction, usually in year 4 or 5. So even if you had no bonus depreciation, the annual amounts wouldn't be the same each year. This trips a lot of people up.
Just FYI for everyone trying to figure out Venmo refund timing - I've used Venmo for my tax refunds the last three years and they've always deposited 2 business days early. Never seen the full 5 days early they advertise, but 2 days is pretty consistent. With a DDD of 03/05 (which is a Tuesday), you'll most likely see it on Monday 03/03, assuming you didn't take a refund advance. If you did take an advance, then it'll probably be right on the 5th or possibly the 6th since the advance provider has to process it first.
Thank you for sharing your experience! I'm pretty sure I didn't take the advance after thinking about it more. So Monday is most likely then? That would be awesome if so!
Based on my experience with Venmo, Monday is most likely. They're pretty consistent with the 2-day early deposit for government payments. I've noticed they usually process them in the morning too, so you might even wake up to it on Monday. Just keep in mind that in very rare cases, the IRS might have delays on their end that can push things back, but with a confirmed DDD, you're usually good to go for that 2-day early timeline.
Everyone keeps saying "if you took a refund advance" but how do you even check if you did or not? I honestly can't remember if I checked that box when I filed...
Fatima Al-Suwaidi
One thing to consider for maximizing QBI - look into setting up an S-Corp instead of staying as a sole proprietor. I'm a freelance developer making around $280k, and switching to an S-Corp let me take a reasonable salary of $150k and the rest as distribution, which really helped with my QBI situation. You'll need to run the numbers because there are additional costs (payroll taxes, more complex filing, etc.), but at your income level it could potentially save you thousands in combined taxes. Just make sure your salary is "reasonable" for your profession and location or the IRS might give you trouble.
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Andre Dupont
ā¢Thanks for this suggestion! I've heard about the S-Corp approach but wasn't sure if it was worth the extra paperwork. Do you use a payroll service to handle the salary part? And roughly how much does the additional tax filing complexity cost you each year?
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Fatima Al-Suwaidi
ā¢I use Gusto for payroll which costs about $45/month plus $6/month per person (just me). It's super easy and handles all the tax filings and payments automatically. They even do the year-end W-2s and everything. For the additional tax filing complexity, my accountant charges about $900 to prepare both my personal return and the S-Corp return, which is about $400 more than when I was just a sole proprietor. But I'm saving approximately $12,000 in self-employment taxes annually, so it's definitely worth it. Plus the potential QBI benefits depending on your specific situation. Just make sure you talk to a good accountant before making the switch because there are some situations where it might not be advantageous.
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Dylan Mitchell
The other major thing you should consider with that income level is retirement plans. A Solo 401k would let you contribute way more than a traditional IRA and reduce your taxable income, potentially helping with QBI phases. For 2024, you can contribute up to $23,000 as an employee, PLUS up to 25% of your compensation as the employer (up to a combined max of $69,000). This could potentially drop your taxable income enough to qualify for more of the QBI deduction.
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Sofia Morales
ā¢This is good advice. I'd add that for someone making $320k, you might also look into a defined benefit plan in addition to a Solo 401k. They're more complex and require an actuary, but you can potentially sock away $100k+ per year pre-tax if you're over 40. Really helps with QBI qualification too.
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