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Quick tip from someone who's been investing for years: If this is your first time dealing with investment losses, make sure you understand tax loss harvesting for the future. Those losses can actually be beneficial in offsetting gains in other areas. For the worksheet question: definitely use -1,912 with the minus sign. The following lines of the worksheet are designed to handle negative numbers properly. Think of "smaller" as "lesser value" not "lower number.
Can you explain more about tax loss harvesting? I've heard the term but don't really understand how it works or if it's something I should be doing.
Tax loss harvesting is basically strategically selling investments that have decreased in value to offset capital gains from other investments. For example, if you have stocks that have gained $5,000 and others that have lost $5,000, you could sell both and effectively pay no tax on the gains. You can also use up to $3,000 of net capital losses to offset ordinary income each year. Any unused losses above $3,000 can be carried forward to future tax years. It's a way to make your investment losses work for you by reducing your tax bill. Just be careful of wash sale rules - you can't buy substantially identical securities within 30 days before or after selling at a loss.
Has anyone used TurboTax for this situation? I have similar negative/positive numbers on my Schedule D and I'm wondering if the software handles this automatically or if I need to manually override something.
I'm a tax preparer and this is actually a common issue I see with various tax software. Here's the simple explanation: Both programs are technically doing it right, but FreeTaxUSA is showing you more of the calculation process. State taxes paid (whether through withholding or estimated payments) are deductible as itemized deductions on Schedule A. BUT, you only benefit from itemizing if your total itemized deductions exceed the standard deduction ($14,600 single, $29,200 married for 2024). TurboTax tends to hide the "losing" calculation from you if the standard deduction is clearly better. FreeTaxUSA shows you both calculations more transparently, which sometimes makes people think they're getting a bigger refund when actually both would give you the same amount in the end.
Does this mean I should always double check if software is making the right choice between standard and itemized? I've just been accepting whatever the software recommends.
Yes, you should always verify which deduction method is better for your situation. Most software will choose correctly, but understanding why is important. The standard deduction is simple - a fixed amount based on filing status. Itemized deductions add up your qualifying expenses (state/local taxes up to $10K, mortgage interest, charitable donations, certain medical expenses, etc.). If itemized > standard, use itemized. If not, use standard. Both programs will ultimately pick the higher option, but they differ in how clearly they show you the "losing" calculation.
Has anyone tried using Credit Karma Tax (now Cash App Taxes)? It's completely free and I've found it does a good job with state tax withholding deductions. I've compared it with both TurboTax and FreeTaxUSA.
Another thing to consider for the wall oven donation - if it's worth over $500 (which it sounds like it is), make sure you complete Section A of Form 8283. And if it's over $5,000, you need a qualified written appraisal and must complete Section B instead. In your case, since you're looking at around $1,870 value, Section A is fine, but make sure to include a detailed description of the oven (brand, model number, condition, etc.). I got audited over a furniture donation a few years back because I didn't properly document everything on Form 8283.
Thanks for the heads up about Form 8283! Would I need to attach any documentation about the original price when I file, or just keep that information in case of an audit? And do you know if I need the charity to fill out part of the form?
You don't need to attach the original price documentation when you file - just keep all that info in your records in case of an audit. The IRS recommends keeping tax documentation for at least 3 years after filing. Yes, the charity needs to complete Part IV of Section A on Form 8283 to acknowledge receipt of the donated property. Make sure to get this filled out when you drop off the item or shortly after. They'll need to include their name, EIN, signature of an authorized official, and date of the donation. Some charities are familiar with this requirement, but smaller ones might need you to explain what you need.
Something no one has mentioned yet - remember that for 2025 taxes you need to itemize deductions to claim charitable donations. The standard deduction is pretty high now ($13,850 for single, $27,700 for married filing jointly in 2025), so unless your total itemized deductions (state/local taxes, mortgage interest, charitable donations, etc.) exceed your standard deduction, you won't get any tax benefit from the donation.
One thing to keep in mind - if you also contribute to your HSA outside of payroll (like direct deposits from your bank account), those are handled differently. Those would be reported as employee contributions, and you'd need to deduct them on Form 8889. I made this mistake last year where I had both payroll deductions (code W) and separate contributions I made directly. I didn't realize I needed to handle them differently on my tax return.
Does TurboTax automatically figure this out if you enter both types of contributions? Or do you have to manually separate them somehow?
TurboTax will ask you to enter both types separately. When you enter your W-2, it captures the code W contributions automatically. Then it will specifically ask if you made any additional contributions directly to your HSA outside of payroll. Just make sure you don't double-count by entering your payroll deductions again in the "direct contributions" section. Only enter any additional contributions you made separately from your paycheck.
Another thing to check is whether your employer made any actual employer contributions (like an HSA match) in addition to your payroll deductions. Both would show up with code W, but you'd want to make sure the total amount looks right. For example, my company contributes $500 annually to my HSA plus my own payroll deductions. So my W-2 shows the combined total with code W.
That's a good point. How can you tell which portion came from the employer vs your own money if they're combined under the same code?
Sofia Torres
Don't forget about self-employed retirement plans! If you had any self-employment income in 2023 (even side gig stuff), you might be eligible for a SEP IRA contribution which could significantly reduce your AGI. You can contribute up to 25% of your net self-employment income, up to a max of $66,000 for 2023. The best part is you can establish and fund a SEP IRA up until your tax filing deadline INCLUDING EXTENSIONS. So if you extend your return to October, you have until then to fund it!
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GalaxyGlider
ā¢Thanks for mentioning this! I actually did do some freelance work last year that I reported on Schedule C. Would I need to open a specific type of account for this SEP IRA thing? And does the contribution have to be from the freelance income specifically or can it come from my savings?
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Sofia Torres
ā¢You'll need to open a specific SEP IRA account at a brokerage like Vanguard, Fidelity, or Schwab. Most have simple online applications and you can designate it as a SEP IRA during the account creation process. The contribution can come from any of your personal funds - it doesn't have to be directly from your freelance earnings. The important thing is that your contribution can't exceed 25% of your net self-employment income (after deducting expenses and the self-employment tax deduction). If you made $10,000 in net profit from freelancing, you could contribute up to about $2,500 to a SEP IRA which would directly reduce your AGI by that amount.
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Dmitry Sokolov
Has anyone tried making qualified charitable distributions from an IRA to reduce AGI? My tax guy mentioned this but I'm not sure if it works or if there's an age requirement.
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Ava Martinez
ā¢Qualified Charitable Distributions (QCDs) only work if you're 70.5 years or older, and they're made directly from your IRA to the charity. They don't technically reduce your AGI but they do reduce your taxable income. If you're younger, regular charitable contributions won't reduce AGI either - they're itemized deductions that come after AGI is calculated.
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