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Bit of a different perspective - I'm an accountant who works with a lot of gig workers. For just $400, honestly, you're going to pay more for tax software or professional help than you might owe in taxes. Keep good records, track income and expenses, but don't stress too much until you're making more substantial money.
I've been wondering about this too. What level of income would you say justifies paying for professional tax help vs doing it myself for freelance teaching?
Make sure you're responding to the CP2000 by the deadline! The most important thing is to not ignore it even if you don't have all your documentation yet. For the Roth IRA portion, you need to prove your basis. The IRS assumes all distributions are earnings unless you can document your contributions. If you don't have records of your contributions, contact your IRA custodian ASAP to get historical statements. For the Traditional IRA, you're right that you'll owe taxes plus the 10% penalty since you didn't qualify for any exceptions. One thing to consider: if paying the total amount would cause financial hardship, you can request a payment plan when you respond to the CP2000. They're usually pretty reasonable about setting up installment agreements.
Thanks for the reminder about responding by the deadline. The due date is in about 3 weeks, so I have a little time. Do you know if I'll get a separate bill for the penalties and interest, or will that be included in what I pay when I agree to the CP2000 assessment?
When you agree to the CP2000 assessment, the response form will show the total additional tax amount they're proposing. This typically includes the 10% early withdrawal penalty for the Traditional IRA portion, but it does not include interest and potential late payment penalties. Those additional amounts will be calculated and included in the actual bill you receive after you've agreed to the assessment. The IRS will send you a separate notice (usually a CP22A) with the final amount including any interest and penalties. Interest continues to accrue until the amount is paid in full. If you're concerned about the total, it's definitely worth requesting an installment agreement either with your CP2000 response or when you receive the final bill. You can use Form 9465 to request a payment plan.
Make sure you're using the correct year's Form 8606! I made the mistake of using the current year form instead of the form for the tax year in question. The IRS rejected my response and it added months to the process. You can find old tax forms on the IRS website by searching for "prior year forms." For 2019 forms (which I think is what you need based on your post), go to this page: https://www.irs.gov/forms-pubs/prior-year
Important thing nobody's mentioned yet - make sure the insurance payout actually covers your transportation needs! When my car was stolen, I had to buy a replacement before the insurance check came through, and I ended up spending way more than what insurance gave me. The tax stuff is important, but also make sure you're getting a fair settlement that actually covers a comparable replacement in today's market. My insurance company tried to lowball me based on "comparable vehicles" that were actually in much worse condition than mine.
Did you negotiate with the insurance company or just accept their first offer? I've heard you can push back if their valuation seems low.
I absolutely negotiated! Their first offer was almost $3,200 below what comparable vehicles were selling for in my area. I collected screenshots of similar listings, documentation of recent maintenance and upgrades I'd done, and sent it all to the adjuster. After about a week of back-and-forth, they increased their offer by about $2,700. Still not perfect, but much closer to reality. Definitely don't just accept the first number they throw at you - most insurance companies expect some negotiation.
Something else to consider - if you had a loan on the car, the insurance payout might go directly to the lender first to pay off the loan. If there's anything left over after that, you'll get the remainder. If you were "underwater" on the loan (owed more than the car was worth), you might still owe money to the lender even after the insurance payout is applied. That's where gap insurance comes in, if you had it.
One thing ur brother in law should definitely check is if there's a time limit for responding!!!! My cousin ignored one of these notices thinking it was a mistake and ended up owing way more in penalties. I think they give u like 90 days or something but don't quote me on that. Also tell him to make copies of EVERYTHING he sends them and send it certified mail so they can't claim they never got it. The IRS is notorious for "losing" paperwork.
This is really good advice, thanks! The letter does mention a 90-day period to respond. Do you know if we need to use any specific forms when sending the documentation? Or just include a letter explaining everything with copies of the supporting documents?
For a notice of deficiency, he should definitely include a written letter that references the notice number (should be in the top right corner of what they sent). No specific form is needed, but make sure he includes his social, the tax year in question, and contact info. I'd organize everything super clearly - like "Regarding item 1 on the notice, here are documents A, B, C that prove..." Makes it easier for whoever reviews it. And yeah, certified mail with return receipt is absolutely essential. My cousin learned that lesson the hard way.
has anyone else noticed how the IRS seems to be sending wayyy more of these deficiency notices lately? feels like they're just throwing them at the wall to see what sticks. my neighbor, my coworker and now ur brother all got them within the last few months. i wonder if they have some kinda quota to meet š
Paolo Marino
A tip from someone who's been in your situation: make sure you're also checking if you need to file Form 8938 (Statement of Specified Foreign Financial Assets) if the value of your foreign properties exceeds certain thresholds. I got hit with a nasty penalty for missing this even though I reported all my income correctly. The thresholds depend on whether you're filing single or married, and whether you live in the US or abroad. For someone on a work visa living in the US filing single, the threshold is $50,000 on the last day of the tax year or $75,000 at any time during the year.
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Ava Thompson
ā¢Thanks for bringing this up! I hadn't even considered Form 8938. Do foreign properties always count as "specified foreign financial assets" or does it depend on how they're used?
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Paolo Marino
ā¢Foreign real estate directly owned by you generally isn't considered a specified foreign financial asset for Form 8938 purposes. However, if your property is held through a foreign entity like a corporation or partnership, then the interest in that entity would need to be reported. That said, you absolutely need to report the income from the property (rental income, farming profits, or capital gains from selling) on your tax return regardless. And if you have foreign bank accounts where you're depositing the income from these properties, those accounts may need to be reported on both Form 8938 and the FBAR if they meet the thresholds.
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Amina Bah
Don't forget that timing matters for establishing tax residence too! Your tax obligations depend on whether you pass the Substantial Presence Test for the tax year. If you're in the US on a work visa and have been here for most of the year, you'd typically be considered a US tax resident and need to report worldwide income. But if you just arrived on your work visa this year, you might be a dual-status alien or a nonresident for part of the year, which could affect how your foreign property sale is taxed.
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Oliver Becker
ā¢This is an important point. I messed up my first year in the US because I didn't understand the dual-status alien filing requirements. Had to do an amended return and it was a nightmare. The year you move to or from the US has special tax considerations.
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