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Something else to consider that nobody's mentioned - make sure your friend reports this property sale on their home country tax return too! Depending where they live now, they might get foreign tax credits for the taxes paid in Canada. I'm a dual US/Canada citizen and had to report my Canadian property sale on both returns. The US gave me a foreign tax credit for what I paid to Canada, which prevented double taxation. Most countries have tax treaties with Canada that work this way.
That's a really good point I hadn't even thought about! My friend is living in Germany now - would they have a similar tax treaty situation? How complicated is it to claim those foreign tax credits?
Yes, Germany and Canada do have a tax treaty that should prevent double taxation. Your friend will need to report the Canadian property sale on their German tax return, but they can claim a credit for taxes paid in Canada. For claiming the credits, they'll need documentation showing the exact amount of Canadian tax paid specifically attributable to the property sale. The process isn't super complicated, but it does require careful documentation. Make sure they keep copies of their Canadian non-resident return, the T2062 form, and proof of the tax withholding and any refund they receive. German tax authorities may want to see these documents.
One more thing to watch for - if your friend owned this place before 1994, there's potentially an additional adjustment to the cost base from the capital gains election that was available back then. My parents missed this when they sold their Vancouver property and it cost them thousands.
This is so true! My family had the same issue with a property in Montreal. The 1994 capital gains election can make a huge difference in the adjusted cost base. Also worth noting that if they ever did any major renovations, those costs should be added to the ACB as well.
Yeah, finding documentation from 20+ years ago can be a real challenge though. If they made the election back in 1994, the CRA should have it on file, but you might need to specifically request that information. Some accountants keep spreadsheets showing the impact of various capital gains changes over the years for long-term held properties. Especially important for non-residents since they don't get the principal residence exemption for years they weren't Canadian residents.
One thing nobody's mentioned yet is business insurance. I'm a mobile dev contractor too, and I deduct my E&O (errors and omissions) insurance as well as general liability insurance. Both are 100% deductible business expenses, and they protect you if a client ever claims your app caused them financial damage or has security issues. Also look into SEP IRA or Solo 401(k) - as a 1099 contractor you can contribute WAY more to retirement than you could as a W-2 employee, and those contributions are tax-deductible. I put about 20% of my contract income into my Solo 401(k) last year and saved a ton on taxes.
I hadn't even thought about insurance or retirement accounts! Do you have recommendations for affordable E&O insurance for a solo developer? And for the Solo 401(k), can I set that up myself or do I need to go through a special provider?
For E&O insurance, I use Hiscox which has reasonable rates for solo developers - usually $500-1000/year depending on your projects. Some clients actually require this in contracts, so it's worth having anyway. For the Solo 401(k), you can set it up yourself through providers like Fidelity, Vanguard, or Charles Schwab for free. The paperwork is a bit involved but not terrible. The huge advantage is you can contribute both as the "employee" (up to $22,500 in 2023) AND as the "employer" (up to 25% of your net earnings) for a much higher total than regular IRAs allow. Just make sure you set it up before December 31st of the tax year you want to use it for.
Don't forget about the QBI deduction (Qualified Business Income)! As a self-employed person, you might qualify for an additional 20% deduction on your business income. It's on top of all your regular business deductions. The rules are complicated based on income thresholds, but most developers I know qualify. This is literally free money that a lot of first-time contractors miss. I almost overlooked it my first year until my accountant caught it - saved me about $5,800 in taxes!
Don't forget to factor in the state tax component too! Federal capital gains is just part of the picture. Depending on your state, you might be paying anywhere from 0% to 13.3% (looking at you, California) on top of federal capital gains. My wife and I sold a vacation cabin last year and were shocked at the state tax bill. Make sure you're setting aside enough from the sale proceeds to cover both federal and state obligations. Your state might also have different rules about separate vs. marital property.
Do all states tax capital gains? I thought some states like Florida and Texas don't have income tax, so would they still tax capital gains from property sales?
You're absolutely right - states without income tax generally don't tax capital gains either. Florida, Texas, Wyoming, Nevada, South Dakota, Washington, Alaska, and New Hampshire don't have state income taxes, so you wouldn't pay state-level capital gains taxes in those locations. However, even in those states, you still need to pay the federal capital gains tax. And some states have other property-related taxes or transfer taxes when selling real estate that could still impact your total tax burden.
One thing nobody's mentioned is that you should definitely keep track of all the capital improvements you made to the property since your wife inherited it. Things like a new roof, HVAC system, significant remodeling, etc. all increase your cost basis and reduce the capital gain. We sold our lakehouse last year and our tax guy saved us thousands by having us document all the improvements we'd made over the 10 years we owned it. We increased our basis by over $45k which significantly reduced our tax bill.
One thing nobody has mentioned is that contribution limits for HSAs in 2025 are going up to $4,150 for individual coverage and $8,300 for family coverage. If you're under 55, that is. There's an extra $1,000 catch-up contribution allowed if you're 55+. Make sure you don't go over these limits or you'll have to deal with excess contribution penalties (6% tax on the excess amount). Your employer contributions COUNT toward these limits too! That tripped me up my first year.
Do you know if converting from an FSA to HSA mid-year affects the contribution limits? My company is switching our health plans in July and I already contributed to an FSA.
Yes, it definitely affects your contribution limits. When you switch from an FSA to HSA mid-year, you generally have to prorate the HSA contribution limit based on the number of months you're eligible. If you make a mid-year switch, you can only contribute 1/12 of the annual limit for each month you're HSA-eligible. However, there's something called the "last-month rule" that might help - if you're HSA-eligible on December 1, you can potentially contribute the full year's limit, but you must remain HSA-eligible through December of the following year (called the testing period) or face penalties on the accelerated portion.
I think people are overcomplicating this. I use FreeTaxUSA for my taxes and it asks simple questions about my HSA that make it super easy. No need to manually fill out Form 8889 or anything like that. The software does it automatically based on your W-2 info and any additional contributions you made outside your payroll.
Does FreeTaxUSA handle situations where you've changed jobs mid-year and have HSA contributions from two different employers? That's what I'm dealing with now.
Freya Thomsen
One thing nobody mentioned - if you're expecting to owe, start putting money aside NOW, even before you file. I learned this the hard way! Even $50 a week between now and April will add up. Another option: if your tax software offers a "pay with refund" option where they take their fee from your refund, DO NOT DO THIS if you owe money! I made this mistake my first time. There's no refund to take the fee from, so you'll end up owing the tax prep fee too. Try to use a free filing option instead since your situation sounds relatively simple.
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Oliver Zimmermann
β’Thanks for the advice! I've actually already started putting some money aside each paycheck, but probably not enough. When you say use a free filing option - are there specific ones you'd recommend for someone with just a regular W-2 job and nothing complicated?
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Freya Thomsen
β’For a simple W-2 situation, the IRS Free File program is your best option. They partner with tax software companies to provide truly free filing if your income is below a certain threshold (around $73,000). I personally used FreeTaxUSA which has a free federal option for any income level and only charges about $15 for state filing. Avoid the big companies that advertise "free" but then try to upsell you on everything. If all you have is W-2 income and standard deduction, you honestly don't need anything fancy. The IRS website has a tool to help you find legitimate free options based on your situation.
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Omar Zaki
Just wanna add that if you REALLY can't pay by April 15, make sure you still file your return on time and pay whatever you can. The failure-to-file penalty is 5% of your unpaid taxes each month, while the failure-to-pay penalty is only 0.5% per month. Big difference! I made the mistake of not filing because I couldn't pay, and ended up owing wayyy more in penalties. Don't be like me lol.
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AstroAce
β’This is such important advice! Also worth knowing that if you file for an extension (Form 4868), you get until October 15 to FILE, but you still need to PAY by April 15. The extension only gives you more time to submit paperwork, not to pay what you owe.
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