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One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet about the home sale - make sure to check if your father-in-law qualifies for any medical expense deduction for improvements made to the house. If any modifications were made to accommodate a medical condition (wheelchair ramps, grab bars, etc.), those can sometimes be deducted as medical expenses if they weren't already used to increase the basis in the home. Also, regarding the support test for dependency - remember that medical expenses, including in-home care that you mentioned, count heavily toward the support calculation. Given how expensive that care is, it sounds like you're likely providing well over 50% of his total support even with the home sale proceeds.
Thanks for mentioning this! We actually did install some grab bars and a walk-in shower about two years ago but I didn't think of that as something tax-related. About how much of his care costs would qualify toward the support test? The in-home aide costs around $4,200/month and we're paying for all of it.
The in-home care costs absolutely count toward the support test! If you're paying $4,200/month, that's over $50,000 per year just for that care, which is substantial. All of that would count toward your support calculation. For the medical modifications, if they were medically necessary (prescribed or recommended by a healthcare provider), they could potentially be deductible as medical expenses if you itemize deductions. However, these would need to exceed a certain percentage of your adjusted gross income along with other medical expenses to get any tax benefit. Alternatively, those costs could be added to the basis of the home if you didn't take the medical deduction, potentially reducing any taxable gain.
I just helped my dad sell his home and deal with all this last year. The magic word here is "basis" - you need to figure out the adjusted basis of the home. Start with what he paid originally ($35k), then add the cost of any major improvements over the years (new roof? kitchen remodel? addition?). Those all increase basis. Then when you subtract that final basis number from the sale price, that's the gain. Like someone mentioned, he probably qualifies for the $250k exclusion if it was his primary residence for 2 of last 5 years, so likely no tax. One important thing nobody mentioned - get all this documented NOW while you have access to records. Future you will thank you if this ever comes up in an audit or if you need to sell another property and need to reference precedent.
What counts as a "major improvement" versus just regular maintenance? Like if he replaced the water heater, does that count?
Just so you know, if you filed a simple return as a first-time filer and selected direct deposit, you'll most likely get your refund within 2 weeks. My son is around your age and got his first refund in 9 days this year. The IRS processes refunds in batches, and they typically release these batches once per week. The 21-day guideline is just them being cautious, but most straightforward returns are processed much faster.
Thanks for the info! That makes me feel better. Do you know if there's any way to tell which "batch" my return might be in? The IRS site just says "approved" but doesn't give an estimate.
Unfortunately there's no way to see which specific batch your return is in. However, once your return status changes from "Return Received" to "Return Approved," that usually means your refund will be issued within 1-3 business days. After the IRS approves your refund, it typically takes 1-5 business days for your bank to make the funds available to you, depending on your bank's policies. If you check the Where's My Refund tool and it shows "Refund Sent," that means the money has been sent to your bank.
Does anyone know if filing in February versus filing in April affects how quickly you get your refund? I always assumed filing early meant faster refunds but last year I filed in February and still waited over a month.
In my experience, filing in February is actually slower than mid-March. The IRS gets swamped with early filers who have all their documents ready in February. I've filed in mid-March the last two years and got my refund within 10 days both times. April is definitely the worst though - everyone rushing to meet the deadline creates huge backlogs.
Some advice on the mileage tracking - stop using that notebook ASAP! Get a mileage tracking app on your phone. I learned this the hard way when my paper log got coffee spilled on it and the IRS questioned my deductions. Most apps use GPS to automatically track your drives and let you classify them as business or personal. They generate reports you can use for taxes. Many are free for basic usage. Trust me, it's worth switching to digital!
Thanks for the suggestion! Any specific apps you'd recommend? I'm definitely tired of trying to remember to write everything down, especially when I'm rushing between deliveries.
I've been using MileIQ for about 2 years and it's been really reliable. Stride is another popular one that's completely free and also helps track other business expenses. Everlance is good too - it has a free tier that lets you track up to 30 trips per month. The key is finding one that runs in the background without killing your battery. Most will let you export your mileage log as a PDF or spreadsheet at tax time, which looks way more professional than a handwritten notebook if you ever get audited.
I don't think anyone mentioned an important point - if you're using your car for a delivery job, you're probably an independent contractor (1099 worker), not an employee. This means: 1. No taxes are withheld from your pay 2. You'll need to pay self-employment tax (15.3%) 3. You might need to make quarterly estimated tax payments Deducting your mileage and other business expenses is critical because it reduces your taxable income and therefore your tax bill!
This!!! I learned this the hard way my first year delivering. Didn't make quarterly payments and got hit with a penalty. The mileage deduction saved me though - turned a $3200 tax bill into about $850.
Just to add to what others have said - make sure you're meeting the "qualifying child" or "qualifying relative" tests for dependency. For your niece, she'd likely be a qualifying relative if: 1. You provided more than half her support 2. Her income was less than $4,400 for 2023 3. She lived with you all year For the baby, even though you're not the parent, you can still claim the baby as a qualifying child if: - The baby lived with you for more than half the year - You provided more than half the support - The baby is related to you (your niece's child would be your great-niece/nephew) The tiebreaker rules only come into play when multiple people COULD claim the dependent. Since it sounds like the father doesn't meet the support test, he shouldn't be claiming the child at all.
Thanks for breaking this down! Yes, my niece had almost no income in 2023 (less than $2,000 from a part-time job that didn't last). And for the baby, they both lived with me from birth in November through the entire year, and I provided well over 90% of all support. The father only lived there briefly and contributed almost nothing financially. Would bank statements showing I paid for diapers, formula, doctor visits, etc. be good evidence? And what about proof that they lived with me - would utility bills showing my address be enough?
Bank statements showing purchases of baby supplies and medical expenses would be excellent evidence. For proving they lived with you, utility bills are helpful, but even better would be: Medical records showing your address for the baby's appointments Any official documents like the birth certificate that might show your address Statements from doctors, childcare providers, or even neighbors confirming they lived with you Letters from social services or benefits offices if any benefits were received at your address The more documentation the better, but focus on official documents when possible. Also, if you can show that the father's address was different during most of this period, that would further strengthen your case.
Quick tip - when you file your return claiming the baby, you'll have to file a paper return with the letter and documentation, not e-file. The IRS system will automatically reject an e-filed return with a dependent SSN that's already been claimed on another return.
Nia Harris
One thing to consider is bank statement loans (sometimes called alternative documentation loans). I'm a mortgage broker and we use these for self-employed clients who show low income on tax returns due to deductions. Instead of using your tax returns to verify income, these loans use 12-24 months of bank statements to calculate your average monthly deposits. They're typically 0.5-1% higher interest rate than conventional loans, but they're specifically designed for business owners who write off a lot of expenses. Not all lenders offer them, but they're becoming more common. Might be worth asking about if you're still struggling to qualify with traditional documentation.
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Omar Farouk
ā¢This is really interesting, I hadn't heard of this option. Do these loans work for HELOCs too, or just for primary mortgages? And any idea which lenders typically offer them? My credit score is excellent (820+), it's just this stupid DTI issue because of the deductions.
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Nia Harris
ā¢They work primarily for primary and investment property mortgages, but some lenders have started offering HELOCs with bank statement options too. It's less common for HELOCs but definitely exists. Most non-bank lenders offer some version of these programs. Companies like NewRez, Angel Oak, and North American Savings Bank are known for their bank statement loan programs. Credit unions sometimes offer them too. With your excellent credit score, you'd likely qualify for the best rates they offer on these products. I'd recommend talking to a mortgage broker rather than going directly to lenders - brokers will know which specific lenders have programs that fit your situation.
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Mateo Gonzalez
Just to add another perspective - I'm also self-employed and dealt with this exact issue. What worked for me was adding a co-borrower (my spouse) to the loan application. Even though they had lower income, having W-2 income on the application helped balance out the DTI calculations. If that's not an option, look into lenders that offer manual underwriting rather than just running your numbers through an automated system. Local credit unions and smaller banks are often more flexible with self-employed borrowers because they actually look at your entire financial situation, not just the numbers on your tax return.
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Aisha Ali
ā¢Second this! Manual underwriting is the way to go for self-employed people. When we bought our house, we got denied by three big banks before finding a local credit union that actually took the time to understand my business income. They looked at my profit/loss statements and business bank accounts instead of just my tax returns.
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