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I use a super simple formula for estimating my take-home pay as a freelancer. Take gross income, subtract business expenses to get net profit. Set aside 15.3% of that for self-employment tax, then another 15-25% for income tax (depending on your bracket). What's left is roughly your take-home. So for your friend making $75k: - Let's say $10k in business expenses - Net profit = $65k - SE tax = ~$10k (15.3%) - Income tax = ~$10-16k (15-25%) - Take-home = ~$39-45k This isn't perfect but gives you a ballpark. I always set aside 30% of every check I get into a separate tax account to be safe.
Thanks for this breakdown! But what about the tax deductions for health insurance premiums and retirement contributions? I've heard those can make a big difference for self-employed folks.
Good point! Self-employed health insurance premiums are generally deductible "above the line" which means they reduce your adjusted gross income. Same with retirement contributions to SEP IRAs, Solo 401(k)s, etc. So if your friend pays $6,000 annually for health insurance and puts $10,000 into a SEP IRA, that could reduce their taxable income by $16,000, which would save roughly $4,000-5,000 in income taxes depending on their bracket. That would increase their take-home by the same amount.
Has anyone found a good app for tracking self-employment income and expenses that also estimates your quarterly tax payments? I've tried a few but they're either too complicated or don't calculate taxes accurately.
I've been using QuickBooks Self-Employed for about 2 years now. It automatically tracks mileage, lets you categorize expenses, and calculates your quarterly tax payments. It's not perfect (sometimes categorizes things wrong), but it's been pretty close on the tax estimates.
Just my 2 cents - for contract income of only $4800 in a quarter, you might not actually need to make estimated payments depending on your overall tax situation. There's a safe harbor provision where you won't face penalties if: 1) You'll owe less than $1,000 in tax for the year after withholding 2) You pay at least 90% of this year's tax through withholding/est. payments 3) You pay 100% of last year's tax (110% if higher income) If you have a regular job with withholding that covers your tax liability from last year, you might be fine!
Oh wow, this is really helpful info! I do have a full-time job with regular withholding that more than covered my tax liability last year. Does that mean I might not even need to worry about this missed payment? How would I figure out if I'm covered by this safe harbor thing?
You're likely in good shape then! If your W-2 withholding from your regular job will cover at least 100% of what your total tax liability was last year, you should qualify for the safe harbor provision and avoid any penalties. To verify this, look at your last year's tax return (Form 1040) and find the "total tax" line (line 24 on recent returns). Then check your projected W-2 withholding for this year - if it will be equal to or greater than last year's total tax, you're covered by the safe harbor rule. Many people with side gigs and regular employment fall into this category and don't actually need to make quarterly payments despite having untaxed income on the side.
One thing nobody mentioned is that you should update your address with the IRS ASAP! You can do this by filing Form 8822. It's super important because even if you don't owe penalties now, you definitely want any future IRS correspondence going to the right place!
You can also update your address with the USPS and they will forward your mail, including IRS notices. I did this when I moved and it worked fine.
Another way to think about this: If you get a $50 Amazon gift card through Verizon rewards and buy something for yourself, you don't report that as income. Similarly, if you get a $50 CharityChoice card and donate it, you can't claim it as a deduction. However, if you want to maximize your tax benefits, you could consider selling items purchased with regular gift cards from your rewards program and then donating that cash. Those cash donations would be deductible (with proper documentation). Just make sure the effort is worth the deduction!
That sounds like a lot of extra steps... is it really worth the hassle just to get a tax deduction? Wouldn't you lose money on the resale compared to just donating the rewards directly?
You're absolutely right that it involves extra steps and might not be worth it for smaller amounts. You'd definitely lose some value in the resale process - typically 10-30% depending on what you're selling and where. I only recommend this approach if you're someone who itemizes deductions and is close to the standard deduction threshold. In that specific case, pushing yourself over the threshold with legitimate deductions might save you more in taxes than the value lost in the conversion process. For most people though, direct donation of the rewards cards is simpler and still does good, even without the tax benefit.
Just a heads up - I checked the CharityChoice gift card terms and noticed they take a 10% admin fee before sending the donation to charities. So on a $50 card, only $45 actually reaches charities. This doesn't affect the tax question, but something to be aware of if you're trying to maximize your charitable impact.
Thanks for pointing that out! I was about to use my Verizon points for exactly this purpose. Do you know if there's a way to donate the rewards directly to a charity instead of going through CharityChoice to avoid the admin fee?
I don't believe Verizon offers a direct donation option unfortunately. However, if you have a charity you specifically want to support, you might consider redeeming for regular gift cards that the charity needs (like office supply store cards, etc.) and donating those directly. That way 100% goes to the charity. Just call the charity first to check if they accept gift cards as donations. Many do for operational expenses, but policies vary. And remember, you'd still face the same tax deduction limitations we've been discussing.
One important thing nobody's mentioned yet: the 2-year holding period matters for Section 1231 treatment. Since you've held the property as a rental for exactly 2 years, you're right at the line for getting ordinary loss treatment. If it was less than 2 years, your loss would be a Section 1231 loss that's treated as ordinary under the "non-recaptured net Section 1231 losses" rules from the past 5 years. Also, be very careful with your documentation of that $470k valuation when you converted the property. The IRS often scrutinizes these conversions, especially when there's a loss involved. Get a formal appraisal or at least a comparative market analysis from a realtor that you can keep with your tax records.
Wait, I thought Section 1231 losses always get ordinary loss treatment regardless of holding period? Isn't the 1 year+ holding period just for determining if gains get capital gains treatment? I've been doing my taxes wrong if that's not the case!
You're right that Section 1231 losses are treated as ordinary losses regardless of holding period. I should have been more precise in my explanation. What I was referring to is that to qualify as Section 1231 property in the first place, the property must be used in a trade or business and held for more than 1 year. Since the OP has held it for 2 years as a rental, it qualifies as Section 1231 property. If it had been held for 1 year or less as a rental, it wouldn't qualify for Section 1231 treatment, and would instead be subject to ordinary income/loss rules for property not used in a trade or business.
Has anyone here used the cost segregation strategy for rental properties? When I sold my rental last year at a loss, I wish I had done this earlier. Instead of depreciating the entire property over 27.5 years, you can break out components like appliances, carpet, etc. that have shorter depreciation periods (5, 7, or 15 years). This could potentially have increased your accumulated depreciation, lowered your adjusted basis further, and given you a larger Section 1231 loss to claim against your W2 income. Might be worth looking into before you sell.
I actually haven't heard of cost segregation before. That sounds really useful! Is it something I could still do now even though I've already been depreciating the property as a whole for 2 years? Or is it too late to change how I've been handling the depreciation?
Keisha Taylor
Just a heads up about making payments without an installment agreement - the IRS can still send you to collections even if you're making regular payments. This happened to my brother even though he was paying $200/month consistently. The problem was that the IRS determined he could pay more based on their calculations, so they didn't consider his voluntary payments sufficient. He ended up getting a notice of intent to levy before he finally set up an official agreement. If your amount is under $10k, you should automatically qualify for an installment agreement, and it might be worth the hassle of setting it up for the peace of mind.
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Sofia Torres
ā¢That's concerning to hear about your brother's experience. Do you know how much he owed in total? My balance is only $1,100 so I'm hoping that's small enough that they won't escalate to collections if I'm making consistent payments. Would hate to deal with a levy situation.
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Keisha Taylor
ā¢He owed about $7,500, so quite a bit more than your $1,100. The IRS typically doesn't take aggressive collection actions for smaller amounts if you're making regular payments. Their resources are limited and they generally focus on larger balances or people making no payments at all. For your amount, as long as you're making consistent payments and will have it paid off within a relatively short time (your 4-5 month timeline is very reasonable), you should be fine. Just keep documentation of all payments you make. If you do get any notices, respond to them promptly by calling and explaining your payment history. Lower balances like yours usually get more flexibility.
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Paolo Longo
I just wanted to clarify something about Pay1040 that confused me when I was making payments last year. When selecting the form, "Form 1040 Series" covers regular 1040, 1040-SR, 1040-NR, etc. So yes, that's what you want. Also, when you make the payment there should be an option to select what type of payment it is. Choose "tax payment" (not estimated tax or anything else) and make sure to select the correct tax year. This ensures it gets applied correctly. One thing nobody mentioned is that Pay1040 charges a processing fee, I think it's around 1.87% if you use a debit card. So factor that into your calculations. If you're paying $1,100 over 5 months, that's about $4 extra per payment in fees.
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Amina Bah
ā¢You can avoid the processing fee if you use the direct bank account option instead of a card! I've been doing that for my quarterly estimated tax payments and it's free to process that way.
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