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Something nobody's mentioned yet - if you do go ahead with the early termination, make sure to check if Navy Federal offers any penalty-free withdrawal options. Some credit unions allow partial withdrawals without penalties in certain circumstances. For example, my credit union lets me withdraw up to 20% of the principal from long-term certificates without any penalty once during the term. Others offer hardship exceptions or age-based withdrawals. Worth asking about before you terminate the whole thing.
I had no idea partial penalty-free withdrawals might be an option! Do you know if these types of features are typically mentioned in the initial certificate agreement or is this something I'd need to specifically ask about? Honestly I just assumed it was all-or-nothing when it came to these certificates.
These options are usually buried in the fine print of your certificate agreement, but customer service reps can tell you right away if they're available. Most people don't know to ask about them. The specific terms vary widely between institutions - some offer age-based withdrawals (like over 59½), others have hardship provisions, and some allow one-time partial withdrawals up to a certain percentage. Navy Federal specifically has some certificates with withdrawal options that others don't, so definitely call and ask directly about "partial withdrawal options" or "penalty-free withdrawal provisions" for your specific certificate type.
Another consideration - interest rates have gone up significantly since 18 months ago. If you're planning to reinvest the money into another certificate or savings product, you might actually come out ahead even after paying the early withdrawal penalty. I did this calculation for my own 2-year certificate recently: had a 1.8% certificate from 2022, paid a 3-month interest penalty to break it early, then reinvested at 4.6%. Even with the penalty, I came out ahead after just 4 months because of the higher rate.
This is such a good point! I actually did a similar move with a Chase CD last month. The penalty hurt initially, but the new rate was more than double my old one. There are some good CD rate comparison tools online that can help calculate the break-even point after accounting for penalties.
I think specialized education in trusts and estates is critical for success in tax planning. I completed the Certified Specialist in Estate Planning (CSEP) program which really deepened my knowledge. The American Academy of Financial Management offers it, and it covers everything from basic estate planning to complex trust structures. Also, don't underestimate the value of understanding investments. I took some courses on portfolio management to better understand how different investment vehicles impact taxation. This knowledge impresses clients and helps you coordinate better with their financial advisors.
I've seen the CSEP mentioned before but wasn't sure if it was worth it. How much did it cost and how long did it take to complete? Did you see an immediate impact on your practice after getting it?
The CSEP program cost me around $3,800 total and took about 8 months to complete while working full-time. It's not the cheapest option, but the ROI has been excellent for my practice. I did see an impact pretty quickly. Within the first three months after completion, I was able to raise my rates for estate planning clients by about 25% because I could offer more comprehensive services. The credential also gave me confidence to pursue higher-net-worth clients. The most valuable aspect was that it taught me to spot planning opportunities that I was previously missing. For example, I now regularly identify trust income splitting strategies that save my clients thousands annually.
Has anyone tried using any specific tax planning software for trust and estate work? I've been looking at BNA Income Tax Planner but wondering if there are better options out there for someone just getting into this area.
I've used both BNA and Lacerte Tax Planner. BNA is more robust for complex scenario modeling, especially for trust distributions and estate planning. The learning curve is steeper, but it's worth it for high-net-worth clients. Lacerte is more user-friendly if you're just starting, though it lacks some of the advanced features.
In my experience, library tax preparers through VITA are great, but sometimes they might enter the wrong bank info or miss something small that delays things. Did they give you a copy of your return? Double-check that your direct deposit info is correct. If there's an error with routing or account numbers, that could really delay things. Also, if your return includes certain credits like Earned Income Credit or Additional Child Tax Credit, the IRS legally can't issue your refund before mid-February, no matter when you filed.
Shoot, I didn't even think to check that! Just looked at my paperwork and everything seems correct with my banking details. They did claim the education credit for my online classes last year, but no EIC or child credits. I'm gonna try that Where's My Refund tool tonight when I get home.
That's good that your banking info is correct! The education credits shouldn't cause any special delays like the EIC or ACTC would. Definitely use the Where's My Refund tool - it'll at least tell you if your return has been received and accepted, which is the first step. Don't worry too much yet - 4 days is really early in the process. Most people I've worked with (I volunteer with VITA too) see their refunds within 2-3 weeks for straightforward returns. It's only been a few business days since Saturday!
Has anyone tried using TurboTax to track refunds? Their app has some kind of refund tracking feature but I'm not sure if it's any better than the IRS site.
Tell your friend not to panic! I've been a hairstylist for 10 years, started as a sole proprietor too and made ALL the same mistakes. Here's my practical advice: 1) Gather everything she can - appointment book, payment app records, bank statements showing deposits, receipts for supplies and equipment. Even if incomplete, something is better than nothing. 2) Don't try to hide income. If she was paid through Venmo, PayPal, Cash App, etc. the IRS probably already knows about it if she exceeds certain thresholds. 3) The IRS is actually pretty reasonable about payment plans for first-time issues. She can likely get on a monthly plan that's affordable. 4) For future reference, she should put aside roughly 30% of all income for taxes if she ever does self-employment again. Not filing will just make everything worse. It's scary now but will be SO much scarier if she ignores it!
Thank you for the practical advice! What about her supplies and equipment? She has some receipts but definitely not all of them. Can she still claim those expenses without complete documentation?
She can absolutely still claim business expenses even without every single receipt. The IRS doesn't require receipts for expenses under $75 in most cases, though it's always good practice to keep everything. For the missing receipts on larger items, she should use bank/credit card statements as backup documentation. Have her make a list of all major equipment purchases she can remember (dryers, straighteners, chairs, etc.) with approximate costs. For recurring supplies like shampoo, colors, etc., she can make reasonable estimates based on client volume and the supplies typically used per client. The key is being reasonable and consistent with the estimates - don't claim amounts that are unusually high for her business size.
I'm surprised nobody mentioned the statute of limitations! The IRS generally has 3 years to audit a tax return after it's filed. But for unfiled returns, there is NO statute of limitations - they can come after you 10, 15, even 20 years later! I had a client who didn't file for 2 years for their small business. The IRS caught up with them 7 YEARS LATER and by then the penalties and interest had more than tripled the original tax amount. Plus they had to scramble to find documentation from a business that had been closed for years. Tell your friend that filing now, even with imperfect records, starts that 3-year clock ticking. If she doesn't file, the IRS can come knocking anytime in her future.
Aaron Lee
Almost every IRS notice has a specific code on it, usually in the upper right corner (like CP11, CP12, CP14, etc). If you share that code, we might be able to give you more specific help about exactly what the notice means and what your options are.
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Lucas Adams
ā¢Just checked and it has CP12 at the top right! Does that tell you anything specific about my situation?
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Aaron Lee
ā¢CP12 is actually good news! It means the IRS found a math error on your return, but in this case, they're sending YOU money, not asking for payment. The $582.46 should be coming to you as an additional refund. The payment coupon at the bottom is probably just a standard part of their notice template that wasn't removed, which is why it was confusing. You don't need to send anything. The notice should state somewhere that they're issuing you a refund, and you should receive it within 4-6 weeks from the date on the notice.
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Chloe Mitchell
I'm a bit confused now. You mentioned getting a CP12 notice but also said it has "amount due" in bold and includes a payment coupon? That doesn't sound right for a CP12, which is typically a refund notice. Double check if it's actually a CP11 (adjustment resulting in tax due) instead of CP12 (adjustment resulting in refund).
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Michael Adams
ā¢This is exactly right. CP11 = you owe money. CP12 = IRS owes you money. They look almost identical except for that key difference. The OP needs to check the notice code carefully.
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