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How do I properly report a worthless security on my taxes?

I've been holding 950 shares of HealthPlus (HPIQ) throughout their bankruptcy process this year. Based on what I can see in my Schwab account, the stock has now been deemed worthless, showing a loss of ($15,800.42). It no longer appears as an "unrealized loss" like it did before. I noticed a transaction dated 10/17/2024 with just a description of "Reorganization - 950" which I'm assuming refers to my HPIQ shares. When I tried to check Schwab's worthless securities section (https://www.schwab.com/worthless-securities), HPIQ isn't listed as an option, which makes me think it's officially been classified as a worthless security as of October 17, 2024. My questions are: 1. I didn't do anything with this stock in 2024, and now it seems to have disappeared from my Schwab account. However, I don't see any mention of it on the 1099-B that Schwab issued. Is this normal? Do worthless securities not get reported on 1099-B forms? 2. If this is indeed a worthless security, can I just report it directly on Schedule D myself? Do I need any special documentation since I didn't receive tax forms showing the security is worthless? 3. Should I request some kind of documentation from Schwab to "prove" this security has been declared worthless? This is my first time dealing with a worthless security, so I'm confused about the process. I would have expected something to be reported to the IRS automatically.

KaiEsmeralda

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One important thing nobody's mentioned - be careful with the date you claim it became worthless. The IRS is very specific that you must claim it in the year it actually became worthless, not when you discovered it was worthless. From my experience, the reorganization transaction date (your Oct 17) is typically when the broker is recognizing it as worthless, but you should check if that's actually when the company bankruptcy was finalized or if something else happened on that date.

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Debra Bai

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I messed this up once. Claimed a stock as worthless in 2022 when it technically became worthless in late 2021. Got a notice from the IRS and had to file an amended return for both years. What a headache.

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Dylan Cooper

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Based on your situation with HealthPlus (HPIQ), it sounds like you're dealing with a classic worthless security scenario. The "Reorganization - 950" transaction on 10/17/2024 is likely when your broker processed the stock as worthless following the bankruptcy proceedings. Here's what you need to do: 1. **Documentation is key** - Contact Schwab immediately and request a letter confirming that HPIQ became worthless on 10/17/2024. Also ask for account statements showing the stock before and after that date. Save any bankruptcy court documents or news articles about HealthPlus's final liquidation. 2. **Report on Schedule D and Form 8949** - You'll need to manually report this since it won't appear on your 1099-B. Use 10/17/2024 as your sale date (not 12/31/2024 as some suggest - use the actual date it became worthless), $0 as the sale price, and your original cost basis. Enter code "W" in column (f) on Form 8949. 3. **Capital loss treatment** - Your $15,800 loss will first offset any capital gains you have this year. Any remaining loss can be deducted up to $3,000 against ordinary income, with the rest carried forward to future years. The fact that HPIQ doesn't appear in Schwab's worthless securities lookup actually supports that it's been officially deemed worthless. Just make sure you have proper documentation before filing, as the IRS scrutinizes worthless security claims closely.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm new to dealing with worthless securities and had no idea about the documentation requirements. One question though - you mentioned using the actual date it became worthless (10/17/2024) rather than 12/31/2024. I've seen conflicting advice on this. How do you know which date to use? Is there an IRS publication that clarifies this? Also, when requesting documentation from Schwab, should I ask for anything specific beyond just a letter confirming it's worthless? I want to make sure I have everything I need in case of an audit.

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Emma Davis

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This is really helpful info everyone, thanks! I had no idea about the business expense deductions. Quick question - for equipment like my gaming chair, webcam, and microphone that I bought specifically for streaming, can I deduct 100% of those costs? Or do I need to calculate some percentage for personal use too? Also, should I be keeping receipts for everything streaming-related? I've been pretty casual about record-keeping but sounds like I need to get more organized before tax season hits.

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For equipment bought specifically for streaming, you can generally deduct 100% of the cost if it's used exclusively for your streaming business. However, if you use items like your gaming chair or webcam for personal activities too, you'd need to calculate the business use percentage. Definitely start keeping receipts for everything streaming-related! The IRS requires documentation for all business expenses. I'd recommend setting up a simple spreadsheet or using an app to track purchases, dates, amounts, and business purpose. Keep digital copies of receipts since they can fade over time. Some streamers I know create a dedicated email for business purchases and save all receipts there, or use apps like Expensify to photograph and categorize receipts immediately. Getting organized now will save you tons of headaches during tax season!

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Great thread! As someone who's been dealing with streaming taxes for a few years now, I wanted to add that it's also important to understand the self-employment tax implications. When you earn over $400 in net self-employment income (which includes streaming), you'll owe self-employment tax (about 15.3%) in addition to regular income tax. This is why tracking business expenses is so crucial - every legitimate expense you can deduct reduces both your income tax AND self-employment tax burden. Things like your streaming software subscriptions, portion of internet costs, equipment depreciation, and even things like music licensing fees if you use copyrighted music can add up to significant savings. One tip: if you're just starting out and income is irregular, consider opening a separate bank account just for streaming income and expenses. Makes tracking so much easier come tax time, and the IRS loves clean record-keeping if you ever get audited.

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Maya Lewis

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This is super helpful advice about the separate bank account! I'm just getting started with streaming and earning maybe $100-200 a month so far, but I can already see how messy it's getting to track everything mixed in with my personal finances. Quick question - when you mention equipment depreciation, does that mean I can't just deduct the full cost of my new gaming setup in the year I bought it? I spent about $2,000 on a new PC specifically for streaming and was hoping to write that off entirely this year. Should I be spreading that deduction over multiple years instead? Also, for the music licensing fees - are you talking about things like Spotify subscriptions or actual licensing for using music in streams? I've been really careful about copyright but wasn't sure if my Spotify Premium counted as a business expense.

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Joy Olmedo

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I completely understand that panic and confusion you felt when opening that letter - I had almost the exact same experience about a year ago! Getting an unexpected letter from a collection agency you've never heard of is genuinely scary, but you're handling this perfectly by asking questions and seeking advice first. Coast Professional is indeed a legitimate federal debt collection agency that primarily handles government debts like defaulted student loans and tax collections. Since you mentioned the letter references student loans from 6 years ago, there's a very good chance this could be related to loans that went into default, possibly due to administrative issues, missed paperwork during address changes, or servicer transfer problems. Here's what I wish someone had told me right away: Before you contact Coast Professional or agree to any payments, check studentaid.gov with your FSA ID to see the current status of ALL your federal loans. This will give you the complete picture of what's actually happening and help you understand if this collection notice is legitimate. The really encouraging news from reading all these responses is that federal loans come with way more rehabilitation and relief options than regular debt. Programs like loan rehabilitation and the Fresh Start program that others have mentioned could potentially resolve your situation much more favorably than just paying the collection agency directly - and some can even remove default notations from your credit report entirely. Don't let stress push you into making quick decisions. You have rights under the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act, including 30 days to dispute the debt if you believe it's incorrect. Take time to verify everything and explore all your federal options first - Coast Professional will still be there to work with you after you've done your homework, but some relief programs have deadlines you don't want to miss. You've got this! Knowledge is power when dealing with collection agencies, and you're already on the right track.

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This is such comprehensive and reassuring advice! As someone completely new to this situation, I can't thank you and everyone else in this thread enough for sharing your experiences. That initial panic when you don't recognize the collection agency name is exactly what I went through - my mind immediately jumped to worst-case scenarios. Your emphasis on checking studentaid.gov first makes so much sense. I keep hearing from multiple people that administrative issues during servicer transfers can cause loans to go into default without borrowers even knowing, which is both scary and reassuring at the same time - scary that it can happen, but reassuring that it might not be due to anything I actually did wrong. The information about federal relief programs like Fresh Start and loan rehabilitation sounds incredibly promising. The fact that some of these programs can actually remove default notations from credit reports entirely is amazing - that's so much better than just paying the collection agency and still having damaged credit. I'm definitely going to follow everyone's advice and start with studentaid.gov tomorrow morning to get the complete picture before making any contact with Coast Professional. It's such a relief to know I have time to research all my options instead of feeling pressured to make immediate decisions. Thank you for the encouragement and for emphasizing that knowledge is power in these situations. This whole thread has transformed what felt like a crisis into a manageable situation with a clear action plan!

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I completely understand that overwhelming feeling when you get an unexpected collection letter - I had a very similar experience with Coast Professional about 10 months ago regarding old student loans I thought were in good standing. What really helped me was following the systematic approach that others have outlined here: first checking studentaid.gov to verify my actual loan status, then reviewing my credit reports, and finally understanding all my options before contacting Coast Professional directly. In my case, it turned out my loans had gone into default due to a communication breakdown when my servicer changed, but I was able to get everything resolved through the loan rehabilitation program. The whole process took about 9 months of consistent payments, but it completely restored my loans to good standing and significantly improved my credit score. Coast Professional was actually quite professional and patient throughout the process - they explained all my options clearly and weren't pushy about immediate payments. The key was being proactive in communicating with them rather than avoiding their calls. One thing I'd definitely recommend is documenting everything - keep copies of all letters, take notes during phone calls, and get any payment agreements in writing. Also, don't overlook the federal relief programs like Fresh Start that others have mentioned - these can sometimes provide better outcomes than traditional rehabilitation. You're absolutely doing the right thing by researching first instead of panicking. Take it one step at a time, verify everything independently, and remember that you have more options than you might initially think. This situation is definitely manageable with the right approach!

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Lauren Zeb

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This is incredibly helpful to hear from someone who successfully went through the loan rehabilitation process! The fact that it took 9 months but completely restored your loans to good standing and improved your credit score gives me a lot of hope. I was worried that once loans go into default, the damage might be permanent, but it sounds like there's definitely a path back to good standing. Your point about the communication breakdown during servicer changes really resonates - I've had my loans transferred between different companies over the years and I'm starting to think that might be exactly what happened to me. It's frustrating that borrowers can end up in default due to administrative issues beyond their control, but at least there are solutions available. The advice about documenting everything is really valuable - I wouldn't have thought about taking notes during phone calls, but that makes total sense for protecting myself down the road. And the reminder about getting payment agreements in writing is definitely something I'll keep in mind. It's so reassuring to hear that Coast Professional was professional and patient with you throughout the rehabilitation process. I was really worried they might be aggressive or pushy, but it seems like they're generally reasonable to work with when you communicate proactively. Thank you for sharing your success story - it gives me confidence that this situation is definitely manageable with the right approach!

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Derek Olson

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Just to clarify something that hasn't been mentioned yet - if you do need to verify and decide to call instead of using the online portal, make sure you're calling the specific number for identity verification (800-830-5084). That's different from the general IRS number, and the hold times are usually shorter. When I called in March, I only waited about 35 minutes, which is practically lightning speed for the IRS.

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Based on my experience with IRS identity verification last year, the system is supposed to automatically generate and mail the letter within 2-3 weeks of determining verification is needed, but there are definitely gaps in their process. Since you filed on February 1st and it's now been 8+ weeks, I'd strongly recommend being proactive rather than waiting any longer. The IDVerify portal at irs.gov is your best bet - it will definitively tell you if verification is required for your return without needing the physical letter. I had a client in a similar situation who discovered through the portal that verification was needed even though the letter never arrived. Once completed online, their refund processed within 10 business days. Given that you're managing cash flow for your consulting business, the uncertainty is probably more costly than taking 15 minutes to check the portal. If verification isn't needed, you'll know immediately and can pursue other avenues for the delay. If it is needed, you can complete it right away rather than waiting for a letter that may be lost in the mail.

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Quick question - if I'm getting a refund (I'm like 99% sure based on my rough calculations), do I still need to file an extension? Or is the extension only necessary if you're going to owe money?

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Justin Chang

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Technically, if you're getting a refund, you don't NEED to file an extension. The penalties for late filing only apply if you owe money. However, I still recommend filing the extension for two reasons: 1. If your calculations are wrong and you end up owing even a small amount, you'll be subject to late filing penalties if you didn't file an extension. 2. Some states require you to file a state extension even if you're getting a federal refund, so filing the federal extension covers your bases.

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Thanks for the explanation! That makes a lot of sense. I think I'll file the extension just to be safe, even though I'm pretty sure I'm getting a refund. Better not to risk it in case my calculations are off.

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Dyllan Nantx

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Just wanted to add one more thing that might help with your extension stress - you can actually amend your extension payment if you realize you underpaid! I found this out the hard way last year when I filed my 4868 and paid what I thought I owed, but then realized I had forgotten about some 1099 income a week later. I was panicking thinking I'd get hit with penalties, but it turns out you can make additional payments toward your current year taxes even after filing the extension. You can make additional payments online through EFTPS (Electronic Federal Tax Payment System) or by phone, and as long as the total of all your payments meets what you actually owe by the April deadline, you're good. Just make sure to specify it's for the current tax year when you make the payment. So even if you estimate conservatively and then realize you need to pay more, you're not stuck! This might give you some peace of mind as you're figuring out your numbers.

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Lucas Adams

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This is really helpful to know! I didn't realize you could make additional payments after filing the extension. That definitely takes some pressure off trying to get the exact amount right the first time. Do you know if there's a limit to how many additional payments you can make, or is it just as long as everything adds up to what you owe by April 15th?

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