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Another option is to make sure you meet the safe harbor requirements for next year to avoid this problem entirely. If your AGI is under $150k, you need to pay either 90% of this year's tax or 100% of last year's tax through withholding/estimated payments. If AGI is over $150k, it's 90% of current year or 110% of last year. Personally, I always go with paying 100% or 110% of last year's tax because it's a known number and protects me from surprises. Just take your total tax from last year, divide by 4, and that's your quarterly payment amount.
That's really helpful for going forward. But for this year, if I've already underpaid, is there any advantage to paying the remaining balance before I file versus at the time I file?
For your current situation, paying before you file won't eliminate the underpayment penalty that's already accrued, but it will stop additional interest from accruing. The Form 2210 penalty is calculated through April 15th (or your filing date if earlier). What you might want to check is if you qualify for any of the penalty exceptions. For example, if you paid at least 90% of the tax shown on your return for each quarter, or if your tax due is less than $1,000, you might avoid the penalty. Also, look at whether withholding might help - the IRS treats withholding as if it was paid evenly throughout the year, even if it wasn't.
My accountant told me that the IRS has a first-time penalty abatement policy! If you haven't had any penalties in the past 3 tax years, you can often get the underpayment penalty waived completely. You have to specifically request this though - they don't offer it automatically. Worth a shot if this is your first time with this issue.
The first-time penalty abatement usually doesn't apply to estimated tax penalties (Form 2210). It typically applies to failure-to-file and failure-to-pay penalties. Estimated tax penalties are considered different because they're not just about timely filing/payment but about making required payments throughout the year.
Just to add another perspective - I switched from S-corp to C-corp last year and regretted it. The double taxation was worse than I expected, plus the accounting costs were higher because C-corps require more complex bookkeeping and tax filings. Another thing nobody mentioned is that S-corps give you the Qualified Business Income deduction (Section 199A) which can be up to 20% of your business income. C-corps don't get this. In my situation, that deduction was worth about $10k, which totally offset any perceived benefits of the C-corp tax rates. I'm in the process of converting back to S-corp for 2025. Think carefully before making this change!
Thanks for sharing your experience! I hadn't even considered the QBI deduction. Do you remember how complicated the process was to switch from S to C? And now you're switching back? Did you use a specific service or accountant to help with the transition?
The conversion process itself wasn't too difficult - it's basically filing Form 8832 to elect C-corp status. The real complications came afterward with the new tax reporting requirements and accounting changes. I worked with my accountant who specializes in small business taxation. If you're considering a change, I'd definitely recommend working with a specialist rather than doing it yourself. There are timing considerations and potential tax implications that aren't obvious. For example, after you revoke S-corp status, you generally can't re-elect it for 5 years without IRS permission, which is why I'm having to go through a more complex process to switch back.
Has anyone actually calculated the specific difference between S and C corp with real numbers? Like in the OP's case with 72k W2 income and let's say 60k business income?
I did this calculation recently for a similar situation. Here's a simplified breakdown: S-corp: 60k business income passes through. Assuming a reasonable salary of 35k (subject to payroll taxes) and 25k as distribution (no SE tax). The 60k is taxed at personal rates, but with QBI deduction on qualified income. Approx total tax: $12-14k depending on deductions. C-corp: Corporation pays 21% on 60k = $12.6k. Then any money taken out as dividends gets taxed again at 15% (assuming qualified dividends). So if you took all remaining $47.4k as dividends, that's another $7.1k in tax. Total: $19.7k. This is simplified and excludes other factors, but illustrates why S-corps often work better for smaller businesses where owners need to take most profits out.
Just to add another perspective - I'm a student who didn't file for 2 years when I wasn't working. When I got a part-time job and filed this year, I had no issues at all. The IRS doesn't expect returns from people with no income. BUT - check your school's financial aid requirements! My university required a "verification of non-filing" letter from the IRS for financial aid eligibility. It's a simple form but it confirms you weren't required to file. Might be worth looking into if you're receiving any financial aid.
How do you get that verification letter? Is it something you can do online or do you have to call them?
You request it by submitting Form 4506-T to the IRS. Mark box 7 on the form which specifically requests the verification of non-filing letter. You can mail it in or fax it. Some schools will accept alternative documentation if you can't get the letter for some reason, like a signed statement certifying you didn't file. Check with your financial aid office about their specific requirements, as they can vary between schools.
Random question - are there any benefits to filing taxes as a student even with no income? I heard something about it helping with credit scores but that sounds like BS to me lol
Filing taxes has zero direct impact on your credit score. Credit bureaus don't even look at your tax returns. However, having tax returns can be helpful documentation when applying for larger loans like mortgages later on. Lenders sometimes want to see a history of tax returns, even for years with little/no income, to verify your financial history. But that's for major loans years down the road, not your regular credit score.
I used Cash App Taxes this year too and deeply regret it. The interface is so bad that I couldn't figure out where to report my small side business income. Their support told me to just add it as "other income" rather than Schedule C, which is completely wrong! I ended up overpaying my taxes by not getting the right deductions. Has anyone successfully gotten a refund or amendment filed through them? I'm worried about trying to correct this through their system since they're the ones who messed it up in the first place.
Yikes, that's terrible advice they gave you! You definitely need Schedule C for business income. I had a similar issue and ended up using FreeTaxUSA to file an amended return. I wouldn't trust Cash App to fix their own mistake.
The fact that they couldn't even tell you how to access Form 8949 for crypto is a huge red flag. I used Cash App Taxes (when it was still Credit Karma) and they completely messed up my foreign income reporting. I ended up getting a letter from the IRS and had to pay penalties. For anyone dealing with crypto, I HIGHLY recommend using a dedicated crypto tax software like Koinly or CoinTracker to generate your 8949 forms first, then input those totals into whatever tax software you use. That way you have documentation if you ever get audited.
How do those crypto tax programs work? Do they connect to exchanges automatically or do you have to upload transactions manually?
Most of the good crypto tax programs can connect directly to exchanges through API connections, so you authorize them to pull your transaction history automatically. For exchanges that don't support direct connections, you can usually upload CSV files of your transaction history. They then calculate your cost basis, identify which transactions are taxable events, and generate a completed Form 8949 that you can either print or import into your tax software. The big advantage is having proper documentation of how your gains/losses were calculated if you ever get questioned by the IRS.
Michael Green
Has anyone used TurboTax instead of TaxSlayer? I'm wondering if it handles the 1098 form differently. Last year I switched from TaxSlayer to TurboTax and found the mortgage section much easier to understand.
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Mateo Silva
ā¢I used both last year to compare them (before submitting with one). TurboTax was clearer about the 1098 boxes but charged extra for the mortgage deduction forms. TaxSlayer includes all that in their basic price, which is why I stuck with them.
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Michael Green
ā¢Thanks for sharing your experience! Good to know about the pricing difference. I think I'll stick with TurboTax this year since I'm already familiar with it, but it's frustrating they charge extra for something TaxSlayer includes. Maybe I'll compare both again next year.
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Victoria Jones
Sorry to hijack, but this thread reminded me - did anyone else notice that they changed some of the 1098 form options for 2025? Box 10 specifically mentions "mortgage insurance premiums" now instead of just "insurance" like it used to. Makes it clearer what belongs there. I think the IRS finally realized people were confused!
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