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Ask the community...

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Debra Bai

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You know what's funny about all this transcript code business? The IRS expects us to decipher their secret language while they can't even answer their own phones! πŸ˜‚ I've been tracking my refunds for years now (military spouse, so we've filed in 4 different states). The WMR tool is basically useless compared to transcript codes. Last year it showed "still processing" for weeks after I had already received my refund! The big picture is that the IRS is dealing with millions of returns right now. Unless you see specific hold codes (570 without an 846 following it), your return is probably just in the normal queue. Military returns actually tend to process faster in my experience.

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Javier Cruz

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Welcome to the world of IRS transcript codes! As a fellow military family member, I totally get the confusion - it's like learning a whole new MOS! πŸ˜… Here's my simplified breakdown for tracking your refund: **Quick Check Method:** - Use IRS2Go app or WMR tool on IRS.gov - Updates usually happen overnight (check early morning) **Detailed Method (what I recommend):** - Set up your IRS online account at irs.gov/account - Download your 2023 Account Transcript - Look for these key codes: * 150 = Your return was received and processed * 846 = Refund issued (this is your golden ticket!) * 570 = Temporary hold (usually resolves in 1-2 weeks) **Pro tip:** The date next to code 846 is your actual deposit date - you can bank on it being accurate. Since you filed 3 weeks ago through MilTax, you're right in the normal processing window. Most military returns I've seen this year are processing within 21-28 days, especially with the recent April deadline rush. For PCS planning, I'd suggest checking your transcript weekly rather than daily - the IRS updates in batches, so daily checking just adds stress without new info. Hope this helps and good luck with your move! πŸŽ–οΈ

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Nasira Ibanez

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The fact that your wife was initially on a tourist visa and then switched to a spousal visa is actually a common scenario. Based on the Canada-US tax treaty, what really matters is where your "permanent home" was available to you after you moved to the US. I went through something similar and was advised that having a lease agreement in the US showing intent to permanently reside there, along with evidence of moving personal belongings, was crucial in establishing US residency for treaty purposes. Also, document when you gave up provincial health insurance - that's a big one that CRA looks at for residency determination.

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Jean Claude

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Great point about provincial health coverage! I did officially notify Ontario about my move and surrendered my OHIP coverage when I left. I should have documentation of that somewhere. We do have a 12-month lease in the US that we signed in October, and I brought most of my belongings with me (though some larger items are in storage in Canada). Sounds like these factors could help support my case for US residency despite the visa complications.

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Ethan Clark

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Cross-border tax situations like yours are incredibly nuanced, and it sounds like you have several factors working in your favor for establishing US residency status. The key thing to understand is that CRA's residency determination isn't just about your marital status or visa type - it's about where your life is actually centered. From what you've described, you have strong indicators of establishing US residency: you moved with clear intent (got the TN visa for work), obtained US driver's license and health insurance immediately, rented out your Canadian property, signed a 12-month US lease, and surrendered provincial health coverage. The fact that your wife was initially on a tourist visa versus a spousal visa is less relevant than the overall picture of your residential ties. What matters more is that you both moved together with the intention of establishing life in the US, regardless of the specific visa categories at the time. I'd recommend getting a second opinion from a cross-border tax specialist who isn't affiliated with your company. The accountants your employer hired may be taking an overly conservative approach that could cost you thousands unnecessarily. Make sure to document everything - dates of departure, lease agreements, utility setup, bank account openings, etc. This documentation will be crucial if CRA ever questions your residency determination. The Canada-US tax treaty is designed to prevent exactly this kind of double taxation scenario, so don't let anyone tell you that you're automatically stuck paying Canadian taxes on your US income just because of visa timing.

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LunarLegend

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Pro tip: call your state SNAP office directly. Sometimes they can tell you if your debt has been referred for offset even if it's not showing up yet. The hold times are brutal but better than getting surprised later

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Malik Jackson

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This! Called mine yesterday - 2hr wait but got the info I needed

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Ethan Wilson

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I had a similar situation a couple years back! The good news is if you're not defaulted on your payment plan and it's not showing in TOP, you're probably in the clear for federal. State offsets work differently though - they usually happen faster and don't always sync with TOP. Since you're catching up on payments, document everything and keep those payment confirmations handy. Worst case scenario, if something does get offset, you can usually get it released pretty quickly if you're actively paying on the plan 🀞

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Mateo Warren

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This is really helpful! I'm new here and going through something similar. Quick question - when you say "document everything," what specific records should I be keeping? Like just payment confirmations or is there other stuff I should save too? Thanks for sharing your experience!

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Dylan Hughes

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I went through this exact same thing last year! Got the dreaded Form 9143 and had a mini panic attack thinking I'd messed up my taxes completely. Turns out I had signed with a purple gel pen (seemed like a good idea at the time, don't ask why πŸ€¦β€β™€οΈ). The key things I learned: 1) Use only black or blue ink - no gel pens, no fancy colors, no pencil 2) Make sure your signature looks reasonably similar to previous years 3) Don't forget to date it if there's a date line 4) Send everything back that they returned to you, not just the signature page The good news is this is super common and totally fixable! I was worried about penalties too, but as long as you get it back to them promptly, your original filing date counts. Just make sure to use certified mail with tracking - learned that lesson from the comments above and it's totally worth the extra few dollars for peace of mind. You'll get through this! It's way more stressful than it needs to be, but it's really just a paperwork hiccup.

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Amina Bah

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Purple gel pen! πŸ˜‚ I'm sorry but that actually made me laugh - I can totally see how that seemed like a good idea at the time. Thanks for sharing all those tips, especially about the certified mail. I'm definitely going to do that when I send mine back. It's so reassuring to hear from people who've been through this exact situation. I was spiraling a bit thinking I'd somehow ruined my entire tax return, but it sounds like this is really just a minor paperwork issue that happens all the time. Going to re-sign with a boring black pen and get this sorted out ASAP!

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Sean Murphy

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I'm dealing with a Form 9143 right now too! Reading through all these responses has been incredibly helpful and reassuring. I was convinced I had completely screwed up my taxes, but it sounds like this is actually pretty routine. My situation is a bit different - I think I might have used a Sharpie marker to sign mine (seemed bold and official at the time, but now I'm realizing that was probably a mistake). The ink was definitely black, but maybe too thick/bold for their scanners? One question for anyone who's been through this - about how long did it take to get confirmation that they received and processed your corrected return? I'm planning to send mine back with certified mail as suggested, but wondering what kind of timeline to expect before I hear back from them. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences! This thread has saved me so much stress and confusion.

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Kristin Frank

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Guys im so confused about all this. if i want the money now instead of later do i still have to file taxes showing the EV purchase or is that the dealers problem now??? also does this affect other credits I might get like child tax credit??

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Sayid Hassan

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When you transfer the credit to the dealer, you don't claim anything related to the EV credit on your tax return. It's entirely the dealer's responsibility to claim it with the IRS. You get your discount upfront, and you're done! This has zero effect on any other tax credits you qualify for, like the child tax credit. Those will work exactly the same as they always have. The EV credit transfer is completely separate from the rest of your tax situation.

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Kristin Frank

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thank you!! thats such a relief. was worried it would mess up my refund somehow. gonna go with the transfer option for sure now. appreciate the help!!

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Emma Taylor

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm in a similar situation where I was worried about my tax liability being too low to get the full benefit. Reading through everyone's experiences, it sounds like transferring to the dealer is definitely the way to go. One thing I want to add for future EV buyers - make sure you understand the income limits for the EV credit before you commit to the transfer. The credit phases out at certain income levels ($300k for joint filers, $150k for single), and if you're over those limits, you won't qualify for the credit at all, whether you transfer it or claim it yourself. Also, double-check that your specific EV model qualifies for the full $4,000 credit. Some vehicles only qualify for half the credit ($2,000) depending on where the battery components are sourced from. The dealer should know this, but it's worth verifying independently. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this community is awesome for getting real-world advice on these complicated tax situations!

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Thanks Emma for bringing up those important points! I'm actually a newcomer to this whole EV tax credit thing and had no idea about the income limits. That's really good to know before I get too far into the process. Quick question - you mentioned some vehicles only qualify for half the credit. Is there an easy way to check which vehicles qualify for the full $4,000 vs just $2,000? I don't want to assume I'm getting the full amount and then be disappointed at the dealership. Also, does anyone know if the transfer paperwork is different for the partial credit amount, or is it the same process regardless of whether you're getting $2,000 or $4,000?

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