Have you checked your tax transcript from the IRS website? That will show exactly what was filed and processed. It's possible what they sent you isn't even what they submitted to the IRS. Go to irs.gov and request your tax record/transcript. It's free and only takes a few minutes if you can verify your identity online.

This is a frustrating situation and unfortunately more common than it should be. The combination of poor communication and a significant fee for what appears to be a straightforward return is concerning. A few thoughts based on your description: 1. **The estimate vs. actual difference**: Initial estimates during consultations are often rough calculations, but a $900+ difference is substantial. They should have contacted you before finalizing if they discovered the estimate was significantly off. 2. **That $650 fee is excessive**: For a W2 + investment documents with standard deduction, most reputable preparers would charge $150-300 max. The high fee combined with poor communication suggests they may be targeting inexperienced filers. 3. **Next steps**: Since they've already filed, I'd recommend: - Send one final email stating you need a detailed explanation of the refund calculation within 48 hours or you'll file complaints with relevant authorities - Request your IRS transcript online (free at irs.gov) to verify what was actually submitted matches what they showed you - Document everything for potential complaints to your state's tax preparer licensing board The fact that DIY software showed $800 and they got you $1865 suggests they did find legitimate deductions, but you deserved transparency about what changed from the estimate. Don't let them continue ignoring you - you paid for professional service and communication.

Has anyone used TurboTax to estimate this? I'm in a similar situation (59.5 years old) and wondering if their tax calculator is accurate for IRA distributions.

One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is the timing of your withdrawal within the tax year. Since you're considering this for your daughter's house down payment, you might want to coordinate the timing with her closing date. If you can delay the distribution until early 2026, you'd defer the tax impact by a full year, which could give you more time to plan and potentially make estimated quarterly payments to avoid underpayment penalties. On the flip side, if tax rates change or your income situation shifts next year, taking it in 2025 might be better. Also, have you considered if your daughter might qualify for any first-time homebuyer programs that could reduce how much she needs for the down payment? Some state and local programs offer assistance that could let you take a smaller distribution and reduce your tax hit.

I've been dealing with ITIN employees for about two years now in my construction business, and I wanted to share a few practical tips that might help other employers: First, always keep detailed records of the work authorization documents you verify during the I-9 process. This is separate from the tax ID issue but equally important. Some of my ITIN employees had employment authorization documents that were temporary, so I had to track renewal dates. Second, double-check that your business insurance and workers' compensation policies don't have any special requirements for employees with ITINs. Most don't, but it's worth confirming with your insurance agent. Finally, if you use a payroll service, make sure they're experienced with ITINs before you hire the employee. I had one service that kept "correcting" the ITIN back to look like an SSN, which created problems with our filings. Now I always test the system with a sample ITIN before processing actual payroll. The good news is that once you get the systems set up properly, it's really no different from processing any other employee's taxes. The IRS treats the income reporting exactly the same way.

Great question about tracking renewal dates! I use a simple spreadsheet with columns for employee name, document type, issue date, and expiration date. I set up calendar reminders 90 days and 30 days before each expiration so I can give the employee plenty of notice to renew their authorization. Some document types like EADs (Employment Authorization Documents) are only valid for specific periods, so staying on top of this is crucial. For direct deposit with ITINs, I haven't had any major issues, but some banks do ask additional questions for compliance reasons. Make sure you have a copy of the employee's ITIN authorization letter from the IRS (CP 565) if they have one - this can help verify the legitimacy of the number. Most banks will process direct deposits normally once they understand you're following proper employment verification procedures. One tip: if your bank seems unfamiliar with ITINs, you might want to speak with a business banker rather than a regular teller. Business bankers typically have more experience with these situations and can set up the direct deposit without unnecessary delays.

Has anyone used TurboTax for reporting seller financing? I'm wondering if it handles Form 6252 correctly or if I should just go to a CPA this year.

Great thread! I'm also going through seller financing for the first time. One thing I learned from my accountant that might help - make sure you're keeping detailed records of ALL the closing costs and expenses related to the sale, not just the payments you receive. Things like title insurance, attorney fees, recording fees, etc. can all be added to your basis, which reduces your taxable gain. Also, if you're paying any ongoing expenses like property management fees or collection costs, those might be deductible against the interest income you're reporting. Another heads up - if your buyer ever defaults and you have to foreclose, that creates a whole different set of tax implications. The IRS treats it as a separate sale transaction, so you'd need to report any additional gain or loss at that point. Hopefully it doesn't come to that, but it's worth understanding upfront. Has anyone dealt with state tax requirements for seller financing? I'm in California and trying to figure out if there are additional state forms beyond the federal ones.

PRO TIP: Make copies of EVERYTHING before you send it in!!! I learned this the hard way when the IRS claimed they never received my 4506-T form, even though I had mailed it. Second time around, I made copies, sent it certified mail with return receipt, AND kept the tracking number. When they tried to tell me they didn't have it again, I had proof of delivery and was able to get it resolved. Also, double-check that you've signed the form. It sounds obvious, but that's the #1 reason these get rejected.

Just wanted to add some clarity since I work at a financial aid office and see this confusion all the time. Everyone here is absolutely correct - you MUST use Form 4506-T (the full version) for verification of non-filing, not the EZ version. The 4506T-EZ is literally designed only for people who filed returns and need transcripts of those returns. It has no mechanism to verify non-filing because that's not what it's for. Think of it this way: how can a form designed to get copies of filed returns prove you didn't file? It can't. For financial aid purposes specifically, make sure you're checking Box 7 on Form 4506-T and clearly indicate the tax year you need verified. Also, be aware that some schools require the verification of non-filing for EVERY year you're claiming you didn't file, not just the most recent one. One more tip: if you're rushing to meet a financial aid deadline, contact your school's financial aid office. Many will accept a completed Form 4506-T as temporary documentation while you wait for the IRS response, especially if you explain the processing delays.