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If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


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Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


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I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

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Ask the community...

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Pedro Sawyer

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FYI - Make sure you're aware of the pro-rata rule if you have existing Traditional IRA balances!! This seems to be missed often. If you have any pre-tax money in ANY traditional IRA (including SEP or SIMPLE IRAs), you can't just convert your new non-deductible contribution tax-free. It gets prorated across all your IRA balances.

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Mae Bennett

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Can you roll existing traditional IRA money into a 401k to avoid the pro-rata rule? My friend mentioned this but I'm not sure if it actually works.

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Yes, that's called a "reverse rollover" and it absolutely works! If your 401k plan accepts incoming rollovers (most do), you can move your existing pre-tax traditional IRA money into your 401k. This clears out your traditional IRA balance, making future backdoor Roth conversions 100% tax-free since you'll only have after-tax contributions left. Just make sure to complete the rollover before December 31st of the year you plan to do the conversion, since the pro-rata calculation looks at your IRA balances as of year-end.

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Just to add some clarity from my experience - I was in a similar situation last year and successfully completed a 2024 backdoor Roth in early 2025. The key is understanding that you have two separate deadlines: 1) You can make your 2024 non-deductible traditional IRA contribution until April 15, 2025, and 2) The conversion can happen anytime after that (it will just be reported on your 2025 taxes). The Vanguard rep was mixing up the deadlines. While it's true that many people prefer to keep both steps in the same calendar year for simpler record-keeping, it's absolutely not required. You're still well within the window to make your 2024 contribution and then convert it. Just make sure to properly document everything on Form 8606 for both tax years. One tip: If you do have existing pre-tax IRA money, consider the reverse rollover strategy mentioned by others to avoid pro-rata complications. And yes, plan for that 7-day Vanguard holding period if you're using them!

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Diego Chavez

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This is really helpful! As someone new to backdoor Roths, I was getting confused by all the different deadlines mentioned. So just to confirm my understanding: I could make a 2024 non-deductible contribution right now in January 2025, then convert it next month, and that would still count as a 2024 contribution (reported on my 2024 taxes) but a 2025 conversion (reported on my 2025 taxes)? And this is totally legitimate even though they're in different tax years?

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Rajan Walker

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Chime user here! Just FYI, I got my refund about 2 days faster with Chime than my wife did with her traditional bank. We filed on the same day (married filing separately for specific reasons). Mine showed up on Wednesday, hers on Friday. Not a huge difference but still nice!

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Does Chime notify you when the deposit is pending? My credit union shows pending deposits like 1-2 days before they actually hit my account which is helpful for planning.

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Yes, Chime does send push notifications when you have a pending deposit! You'll typically get notified as soon as the deposit is initiated by the sender (in this case, the IRS). The notification will show the amount and expected availability date. In my experience with tax refunds specifically, Chime usually shows the pending deposit about 1-2 business days before it becomes available, similar to what you described with your credit union. You can also check pending deposits in the app under your account balance - it'll show "Pending" with the amount and expected date. The nice thing about Chime's early direct deposit feature is that once they receive the deposit information from the IRS, they often make it available up to 2 days sooner than the official settlement date. So you might see your refund hit your account on a Wednesday when other banks wouldn't release it until Friday.

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CyberSiren

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This is really helpful information! I'm new to using online banks for tax purposes and was worried about missing my refund or having delays. The notification feature sounds great - I hate having to constantly check my account balance to see if something has arrived. Quick question though: if there's an issue with the deposit (like wrong account info), does Chime give you any advance warning or does it just bounce back to the IRS without notice?

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24 Has anyone compared whether it's better to claim ABA therapy under the medical expense deduction instead of the dependent care credit? I heard you can't double-dip and claim the same expenses for both.

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8 You're right that you can't "double-dip" and use the same expenses for both. Which is better depends on your specific financial situation. The Child and Dependent Care Credit directly reduces your tax bill dollar-for-dollar, while medical expenses are a deduction that only helps if you itemize AND your total medical expenses exceed 7.5% of your AGI. For many families, the credit is more valuable, but not always!

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Great question about comparing the medical expense deduction vs dependent care credit! I actually ran into this exact dilemma last year with my daughter's speech therapy costs. Here's what I learned: The dependent care credit is usually better because it's a direct credit (reduces taxes owed dollar-for-dollar) vs a deduction (only reduces taxable income). Plus, medical expenses only help if you itemize AND they exceed 7.5% of your AGI. For example, if you're in the 22% tax bracket and claim $3,000 in medical deductions, you save about $660 in taxes. But if you use that same $3,000 for the dependent care credit at 20%, you save $600 directly off your tax bill - and potentially more if you qualify for a higher credit percentage based on income. However, if you already have massive medical bills that put you over the 7.5% threshold anyway, then adding the therapy to medical might make sense. I'd recommend calculating both scenarios to see which gives you better overall tax savings!

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Zainab Ahmed

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This is such a helpful breakdown, thank you! I never thought about actually calculating both scenarios. Do you happen to know if there are any online calculators that can help figure out which option saves more money? I'm not great with tax math and want to make sure I'm choosing the best approach for our situation.

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Aaliyah Reed

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Your mom is absolutely right to warn you about this being tax fraud. As someone who works in tax preparation, I see this situation come up frequently with college students, and it always ends badly when people try to claim independence while their parents legitimately claim them as dependents. The IRS has automated matching systems that will immediately flag your Social Security number appearing on two returns with conflicting dependency status. This isn't something that might get caught - it WILL get caught, usually within weeks of filing. From what you've described, your parents are almost certainly providing more than 50% of your support. The fair rental value of living at home alone could easily be $8,000-12,000+ annually, depending on your area. Add tuition assistance and other support, and you're nowhere near providing more than half your own support. Here's what you should do instead: 1. File your own tax return as a dependent (checking the box that someone can claim you) to get back any withheld taxes 2. Contact your school's financial aid office immediately about a dependency override appeal - explain how your parents' ability to claim you doesn't reflect their actual ability to contribute to your education costs 3. Look into work-study programs, scholarships, and other legitimate aid options I've helped students navigate dependency override appeals, and schools are often more flexible than people expect when you can document your circumstances properly. This is the legitimate path that won't put you at risk of penalties, interest, and potential criminal charges. Don't let short-term financial pressure push you into making a decision that could have serious long-term consequences.

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This is really helpful advice from someone with professional experience in tax prep. I'm actually in a very similar situation to OP and was getting tempted by friends telling me the same thing about claiming independence. Reading through all these responses has been eye-opening, especially the part about fair rental value. I never thought about how much free housing actually counts toward support - when I looked up what a room would cost in my area, it's easily $900+ per month, which is way more than I make at my campus job. The dependency override appeal sounds like the much smarter route. Do you have any specific tips on what documentation works best for these appeals? I'm wondering if pay stubs, a breakdown of my expenses, and a letter explaining my situation would be enough to make a strong case to the financial aid office. Thanks for steering OP (and me) away from what could have been a really costly mistake!

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Your mom is absolutely correct, and I'm glad you're questioning this advice from your friends. What they're suggesting is definitely tax fraud, and the consequences can be severe. The IRS has automated systems that cross-reference Social Security numbers across all returns. If your SSN appears as both a dependent on your mom's return and as an independent filer on your own return, it will trigger an immediate flag for review. This isn't a "might get caught" situation - it's a "will definitely get caught" scenario. Based on your description (living at home, parents helping with tuition), your parents are almost certainly providing more than 50% of your total support. The fair rental value of your housing alone - even if you don't pay rent - likely exceeds what you earn at your part-time job. When you add tuition assistance and other expenses they cover, it's probably not even close. Here's what you should do instead: 1. File your own tax return checking the box that says "Someone can claim you as a dependent" - you can still get refunds and claim education credits this way 2. Contact your school's financial aid office about a dependency override appeal. Explain that while you're a tax dependent, your parents' financial situation doesn't reflect their actual ability to contribute to your education costs 3. Ask about special circumstances reviews, work-study opportunities, and additional scholarship programs The financial aid appeal route is legitimate and often successful. Many students get additional aid this way without risking tax penalties. Don't let temporary financial pressure push you into a decision that could have serious long-term legal and financial consequences.

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Dylan Cooper

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As someone who switched from paper to e-filing last year, I can't stress enough how much easier it makes the whole process. The biggest game-changer for me wasn't even the faster processing time (though getting my refund in 3 weeks instead of 6+ months was amazing) - it was the error checking. When I paper filed, I'd spend hours double and triple-checking my math, worried I'd made a mistake somewhere. With e-filing, the software catches basic errors automatically before you even submit. It'll flag things like mismatched social security numbers, math errors, or missing required forms. Also, if you're worried about security, e-filing is actually safer than mailing sensitive documents. I used to worry about my tax return sitting in a mailbox or getting lost in transit. Electronic transmission is encrypted and you get immediate confirmation that the IRS received it. For someone with a straightforward return like yours (W-2, some interest income, standard deduction), the transition should be really smooth. Most tax software will walk you through everything step by step, and many have free versions for simple returns.

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Omar Farouk

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This is really helpful! I'm actually in a similar situation to the original poster - been paper filing for years but starting to think it's time to make the switch. One question though - do you remember roughly how much you paid for the e-filing software? I've been using the free fillable forms from the IRS website for paper filing, so I'm trying to figure out if the convenience is worth the extra cost. Also, when you say the software walks you through everything step by step, does it actually explain WHY certain deductions apply or don't apply? I've always liked understanding my taxes rather than just plugging numbers into boxes.

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Diego Vargas

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Great question! I actually started with the same free fillable forms approach, so I totally get the cost concern. For a basic return like yours, you can probably still file for free through the IRS Free File program - it covers most taxpayers with AGI under $73,000 and includes e-filing at no cost. If you don't qualify for Free File, most basic e-filing software runs around $30-60 depending on the provider. I personally think it's worth it for the time savings alone - what used to take me 3-4 hours of careful manual calculation now takes maybe 45 minutes. And yes, the better software definitely explains the "why" behind deductions! It'll ask you interview-style questions and then explain what each deduction means and whether you qualify. For example, instead of just asking for a dollar amount, it might say "Did you pay student loan interest in 2024? This deduction can reduce your taxable income by up to $2,500 if you meet the income requirements." Much more educational than just filling out forms blindly. The software also flags potential deductions you might have missed - I actually got a bigger refund than expected my first year e-filing because it caught a few things I'd been overlooking on paper returns.

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Mason Davis

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I made the switch from paper to e-filing three years ago and honestly wish I'd done it sooner. The processing time difference alone is worth it - I used to wait until September or October to get my refund, now I have it in my account by mid-February. One thing that really convinced me was the audit protection. Most e-filing software includes some level of audit support, and the built-in error checking actually reduces your audit risk compared to paper filing. When you paper file, simple math errors or forgotten signatures can trigger correspondence that looks suspicious to the IRS system. E-filing eliminates most of those issues before submission. For your situation with just W-2 and 1099-INT, you'd probably qualify for free e-filing through the IRS Free File program. Even if you don't, the cost is usually under $50 for basic returns, which pays for itself in the time you save and faster refund processing. The environmental impact was another factor for me - no more printing dozens of pages and mailing thick envelopes. Plus I can access my returns from anywhere if I need them for loan applications or other financial paperwork.

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That's a great point about the audit protection - I hadn't really thought about how manual errors could actually increase audit risk. I've been doing my own paper returns for about 8 years now and always stress about making mistakes, especially with the math calculations. The environmental aspect is actually something that matters to me too. I hate how much paper I go through every tax season between printing forms, making copies, and mailing everything. Going digital would definitely align better with trying to reduce my paper waste. One more question - when you mention accessing returns from anywhere for loan applications, how does that work exactly? Do you just log into the software and download PDFs, or is there some other way lenders can verify your tax information electronically?

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