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One thing nobody's mentioned - even if you're taking the standard deduction now, it might be worth tracking large purchases like cars just in case your situation changes later in the year. For example, if you have unexpected medical expenses or make large charitable donations that push you over the threshold for itemizing, having that car sales tax information ready could be valuable. The tax software asks everyone because it doesn't know your full situation until all information is entered.

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Demi Hall

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That's smart, I never thought about that! How much of a difference could the car sales tax actually make though? I'm trying to decide if it's worth the trouble of finding all the paperwork from my purchase last year.

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For a typical car purchase, you might be looking at hundreds or even thousands in deductible sales tax. On a $25,000 car with 7% sales tax, that's $1,750 potentially deductible. On a $40,000 car, it could be $2,800 or more depending on your state's tax rate. That's significant enough that it could tip the scales if you're close to the itemizing threshold. The documentation is pretty simple - just need your bill of sale showing the purchase price and tax paid. Most people keep this with their important car documents anyway.

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I just want to add that H&R Block's software is just gathering ALL possible information that could affect ANY taxpayer. They don't know your specific situation until you finish everything. Most ppl take the standard deduction ($13,850 single, $27,700 married) but some with lots of mortgage interest, medical expenses, or charity might benefit from itemizing. That's why they ask about the car - it's just covering all bases.

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Kara Yoshida

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So basically we're all answering a bunch of questions that probably don't matter? That's super annoying. Why can't they just ask up front if we're likely to itemize or take the standard deduction, and skip all these irrelevant questions?

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Just a heads up - I did something similar last year with a breast reduction that was technically "cosmetic" according to insurance but was causing back pain and skin infections. Make sure you read IRS Publication 502 carefully! The tricky part is that only the portion of the procedure that treats the medical condition is deductible. My surgeon broke down the costs between "medically necessary" components (like removing enough tissue to alleviate back pain) vs purely cosmetic aspects (like nipple repositioning for aesthetic reasons). This breakdown was ESSENTIAL for my tax filing and avoiding issues with the IRS.

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Thanks, that's really helpful! Did your surgeon provide this breakdown automatically or did you have to specifically request it? And did you need any special form or just the regular itemized receipt?

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You absolutely need to specifically request the breakdown - most surgeons don't automatically provide it because they're thinking about insurance coding, not tax deductions. I had to explain exactly why I needed it, and even then had to follow up multiple times. You don't need a special IRS form, but you do need a detailed invoice or letter from your surgeon that clearly separates costs between medically necessary procedures and cosmetic components. My surgeon provided an itemized receipt with each procedure component listed separately along with a letter explaining which aspects were addressing medical conditions. Keep these documents with your tax records - don't just rely on the standard receipt they give everyone.

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Has anyone considered getting the surgery done in another country? I had a full body lift in Mexico for less than half the US price after my 130lb weight loss, and the quality was excellent. Makes the tax deduction less critical when the base cost is so much lower.

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Liv Park

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Medical tourism can be really risky for complex procedures! My cousin had complications from her overseas tummy tuck and ended up spending way more fixing everything back in the US. Plus those expenses definitely wouldn't be tax deductible.

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One thing to consider with the new W-4 is that if you and your spouse both work and make similar incomes, just checking the box in Step 2(c) is usually sufficient. But if there's a big difference in your incomes, you might want to use the online IRS Tax Withholding Estimator or the worksheet that comes with the W-4 for more accurate results. At least that's what worked for us - my spouse makes about twice what I do, and when we just checked the box, we ended up owing quite a bit. Using the more detailed worksheet got us much closer to breaking even.

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What if one person gets bonuses that vary year to year? That's what always throws off our withholding calculations.

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For variable bonuses, I recommend using the IRS Withholding Estimator tool and updating your W-4 after any significant bonus payment. Most companies withhold bonuses at a flat 22%, which might not be enough depending on your tax bracket. Another approach is to estimate your total bonus amount for the year (maybe based on last year plus a little extra) and add additional withholding in Step 4(c) to cover the difference. Then if you get more than expected, you can submit a new W-4 to adjust. It's a bit of work, but it's better than getting hit with a big tax bill and possibly underpayment penalties.

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Laila Prince

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I worked in payroll for 10 years and the new W-4 confuses EVERYONE. Here's the simplest way to think about it: - Filing status and Steps 1 & 5 are the only REQUIRED parts - If you check the box in Step 2c, it basically tells payroll to withhold at a higher single rate - Step 3 REDUCES your withholding (for dependents) - Step 4a and 4b affect withholding based on other income or deductions - Step 4c is for requesting additional withholding each paycheck If you're married and both work, either check box 2c (simple but sometimes withholds too much) OR use the IRS calculator for a more precise amount to put in 4c. If you just want to be safe and not owe, check the box in 2c and maybe add a small amount in 4c ($20-50 per paycheck) as a buffer.

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Isabel Vega

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This is the clearest explanation I've seen! One question - if my spouse doesn't work currently but might start later this year, should I still check that box in Step 2c now? Or wait until they actually get a job?

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Luca Russo

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I'm gonna offer a different perspective - I've used both FreeTaxUSA and Credit Karma Tax (now called Cash App Taxes) and found Cash App Taxes slightly easier for beginners. BOTH are free for federal AND state, but FreeTaxUSA charges for state while Cash App is totally free for both. The interfaces are similar but Cash App felt a bit more modern and easier to navigate.

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Omar Hassan

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Do you know if Cash App Taxes handles education credits well? My 1098-T has some scholarship money listed on it too and I'm not sure how that affects things.

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Luca Russo

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Cash App Taxes definitely handles education credits well! It walks you through determining which education credit (American Opportunity or Lifetime Learning) is best for you based on your situation. For scholarships on your 1098-T, it will guide you through which portions might be taxable vs. non-taxable depending on what the money was used for (tuition vs. room and board, etc.). The interface asks clear questions to help sort this out - much more straightforward than you'd expect. Their help articles explain things in simple terms too if you get confused at any point.

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Nia Harris

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Just throwing this out there - if your income is under $73,000 you can use the IRS Free File program to access premium tax software for FREE. It's actually the full versions of TurboTax, H&R Block etc. but through a special portal. Search "IRS Free File" and it'll take you to the official page where you can choose which software you want. Might save you some $$.

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GalaxyGazer

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This! I used this last year and got TurboTax completely free. They hide this option when you go directly to their websites.

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Nia Harris

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Exactly! These companies deliberately hide their free offerings that they're required to provide through the IRS Free File program. It's called "dark patterns" in website design - they make the truly free versions hard to find if you go directly to their sites, then trick you into their paid versions. Always start at the official IRS Free File page (irs.gov/freefile) and click through from there. That way you're guaranteed to get the truly free version if you qualify based on income. Saved me $80 last year for essentially the same exact service.

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Ryder Greene

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Just a quick tip - if you filed with TurboTax, H&R Block, TaxAct or any of the major tax software companies in 2020, try logging into your account on their website. Most of them keep your returns on file for at least 3-7 years, and you can just download your old return to find your AGI. Saved me from having to deal with the IRS directly!

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Do you know if this works if you used the free version? I always use different free services each year depending on which one will let me file for free, so I'm not sure if they save returns for the free users.

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Ryder Greene

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Yes, it generally works even with the free versions! I've used the free version of TurboTax for years, and they still save all my returns. The only difference is how long they store them - some free versions might only keep them for 3 years while paid versions might store them for 7+ years. Even if you used different services, it's worth checking all of them. Just make sure you're logging in with the same email you used when you filed in 2020. Sometimes people forget which email they used for tax services.

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Another option - try entering $0 as your AGI if you're filing electronically for the first time or if you didn't file last year. The IRS sometimes accepts this as a workaround for people who can't access their previous returns.

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AaliyahAli

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This worked for me! My return kept getting rejected and I was panicking. Tried the $0 AGI trick and it went through immediately. Thanks for the tip!

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