


Ask the community...
Have you considered taking a 401k loan instead of a withdrawal? Most 401k plans allow you to borrow up to 50% of your vested balance (max $50,000) without any tax consequences as long as you repay it according to the terms. You'd be paying interest to yourself, and there's no credit check since you're essentially borrowing your own money. The downside is you'd need to repay the loan within 5 years in most cases, and if you leave your job before repaying it, the outstanding balance typically becomes due within 60-90 days or it's treated as a distribution (with taxes and penalties). I took a 401k loan last year rather than an early withdrawal and it saved me thousands in taxes and penalties. Just something to consider before permanently removing money from your retirement savings.
Thanks for this suggestion. I actually looked into the loan option with my plan administrator yesterday. They do offer loans but only up to $50k as you mentioned, and I need about $95k for my situation. I also have concerns about the repayment terms since my job situation isn't 100% stable right now. Do you know if it's possible to do a combination approach - maybe take the maximum loan of $50k and then do a withdrawal for the remaining amount I need? Would that at least minimize the tax hit compared to withdrawing the full amount?
Yes, you can absolutely use a combination approach. Taking the maximum loan of $50k and then withdrawing the additional $45k you need would definitely minimize your overall tax hit and penalties. With this approach, the $50k loan would have no immediate tax consequences as long as you make the required payments. Then only the $45k withdrawal would be subject to the pro-rata rule for determining how much is considered contributions versus earnings (and thus how much would be subject to taxes and the 10% early withdrawal penalty).
Just wanted to point out a less-known option - check if your 401k plan allows for hardship withdrawals. These still have taxes on earnings and potentially the 10% penalty, but they're available for specific circumstances like preventing eviction/foreclosure, certain medical expenses, college tuition, or home purchase. The advantage is that hardship withdrawals don't require repayment like loans do. Some plans also allow for withdrawals at age 55 without penalty if you separate from service - something to consider if you're closer to that age than 59½.
Something to be aware of with the Saver's Credit - the income limits are pretty low compared to other tax benefits. I qualified when I was early in my career, but got a raise and suddenly wasn't eligible anymore even though I wasn't making that much. For married filing jointly, you need AGI under $76,500 (for 2024 filing in 2025), which sounds like a lot but can be hit quickly with two moderate incomes. And the credit percentage drops as your income rises - only those with very low incomes get the full 50% rate.
That's good to know! Is there anything I can do to lower my AGI if I'm close to the cutoff? I'm currently single making around $35k, so I think I'm still under the limit, but I'm expecting a raise soon.
Contributing more to your pre-tax 401(k) is actually one of the best ways to lower your AGI! Those contributions come out before your AGI is calculated. For example, if you're at $39,000 and the limit is $38,250, contributing an extra $750 to your 401(k) would get you under the threshold. Health Savings Account (HSA) contributions also reduce your AGI if you have a high-deductible health plan. Traditional IRA contributions can reduce AGI too, but that might be limited since you participate in a workplace plan.
I had this exact same issue with multiple tax softwares giving conflicting info about the Saver's Credit! Found out later that some tax programs have outdated descriptions that date back to when the credit was first introduced as the "IRA Tax Credit" in early 2000s. The Saver's Credit was expanded years ago to include 401(k)s, 403(b)s, 457 plans, and even the federal Thrift Savings Plan (TSP). So yes, your 401(k) contributions absolutely count!
This explains so much! Been using TaxAct for years and they have weird descriptions for some credits. Wonder how many people miss out on credits they qualify for because of confusing descriptions.
One tip I haven't seen mentioned yet - make sure you're looking at the right tax year on your 1098-T! My university operates on a fiscal year that doesn't match the calendar year, and they sometimes include spring payments from December on the next year's form. I almost missed claiming $4,300 in qualified expenses because I didn't realize my December payment for spring semester was actually eligible for the current tax year. Check Box 7 on your form - if it's checked, it means some amounts reported might be for the next semester.
That's super helpful! I just checked my 1098-T and Box 7 IS checked. Does that mean some of the amounts might be for classes I'm taking this spring, but I paid for in December? I'm confused about when I can claim those expenses.
Exactly right! If Box 7 is checked, it means some of the amounts reported include payments for an academic period beginning in the first three months of the next year (January-March). The good news is that the IRS allows you to claim qualified education expenses in the year you actually pay them, not necessarily when you take the classes. So if you paid for spring semester classes in December 2024, you can claim those expenses on your 2024 tax return, even though the classes are in 2025. This is called the "prepaid tuition rule" and it can be really beneficial for your current year taxes.
Has anyone used the IRS Free File options for handling education credits with 1098-T forms? I'm wondering if they're as good as the paid options for education credits.
Something to keep in mind with amended returns - make sure you're tracking your refund the right way. The regular "Where's My Refund" tool doesn't work for amendments. You need to use the "Where's My Amended Return" tool specifically. Also, if you filed your original return with direct deposit, don't assume your amended return refund will come the same way. They often send amended refunds as paper checks even if you previously got direct deposit. Learned this the hard way last year when I kept checking my bank account while the check sat in my mailbox for a week!
Thanks for mentioning this! I had no idea they might send a paper check instead. Do you know if there's any way to specifically request direct deposit for the amended return refund?
Unfortunately, there's no option to request direct deposit for amended return refunds specifically. The 1040-X form doesn't have a section for bank information like the regular 1040 does. The IRS defaults to paper checks for amendments as a security measure, since amendments are processed differently than original returns. Just keep an eye on your mail around the time they say it should be completed. The check will come in a standard government envelope that can easily be mistaken for junk mail if you're not careful!
One tip I learned from my accountant - if you e-file your amendment, you can check the status online after about 3 weeks. But if you mail a paper amendment, you should wait at least 16 weeks before even trying to check the status. I mailed my amended return for 2022 last year (for a similar mortgage interest issue) and tried checking after 8 weeks - the system couldn't find any record of it. Nearly had a heart attack thinking it was lost! Called the IRS in a panic only to be told paper amendments don't even get entered into their electronic system until they're assigned to a processor, which can take 12+ weeks.
E-filing amendments is definitely the way to go now. I did one last month and could see it in the system after just 9 days!
Mei Chen
I've been using this exact structure (C-Corp + S-Corp) for 3 years now in my manufacturing business. Here's my experience: The key is making sure the consulting agreement is DETAILED and the S-Corp is providing real, documentable services. I have my S-Corp handle all executive management, marketing strategy, financial oversight, and business development. We keep detailed logs of hours, projects, and deliverables. The IRS did question this in a correspondence audit last year. What saved me was having: 1) A third-party compensation study showing my consulting rates were reasonable 2) Detailed work documentation and deliverables 3) Separate physical locations, email systems, and business operations Also important: Don't have the EXACT same ownership percentages in both entities. Mine are slightly different (I have a minority partner in the C-Corp but not the S-Corp).
0 coins
Liam O'Sullivan
ā¢How much did that third-party compensation study cost? And did you have a tax attorney help set all this up or did you DIY it? Seems like a lot of complexity just to avoid some taxes.
0 coins
Mei Chen
ā¢The compensation study cost about $3,500, but was worth every penny when the IRS came calling. I did have a tax attorney help set everything up initially - cost around $8,000 for all the documentation, agreements, and structure. Yes, it's not cheap upfront, but I've saved well into six figures in taxes over three years. It's not just about tax savings though. The structure actually makes business sense for us - the C-Corp focuses on production and operations while the S-Corp handles strategy and growth initiatives. Having the separation has helped us clarify roles and responsibilities within the company.
0 coins
Amara Okonkwo
Has anyone considered the state tax implications of this setup? I did something similar and while it worked fine for federal, my state (CA) has additional rules about related entities that nearly negated all the benefits.
0 coins
Giovanni Marino
ā¢I'm in NY and ran into similar issues. The state was much more aggressive in challenging our management fee structure than the feds were. Ended up having to restructure everything after a state audit that disallowed most of our inter-company transactions.
0 coins