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Has anybody here used the IRS withholding calculator on their website? Is it actually accurate? I'm trying to figure out how much to put in box 4(c) like mentioned above.
The IRS Tax Withholding Estimator is actually pretty good. I used it last March after getting hit with a surprise tax bill. You need your most recent pay stub and last year's tax return to get the most accurate results. It will tell you exactly what to put on each line of the W-4.
Thanks for the recommendation! I'll check out the estimator. I was worried it would be complicated but it sounds doable if I have my documents ready.
I went through almost the exact same thing last year - totally missed section 1c and ended up owing $900 when I was expecting a refund. It's such a gut punch when you're counting on that money! Here's what I learned: the IRS doesn't really negotiate on mistakes like this. You pretty much have to pay what you owe, but you do have options for HOW you pay. If $1,400 is a lot for you to come up with at once (it definitely was for me), you can set up a payment plan online through the IRS website. The fees are pretty reasonable - I think I paid like $30 to set up a 6-month plan. The most important thing is to fix your W-4 ASAP so this doesn't happen again. I actually had my HR department help me fill out a new one to make sure I got it right this time. Don't feel bad about asking for help - they see this stuff all the time. One silver lining: now that you know about this, you'll never make the same mistake again. And honestly, owing taxes isn't the worst thing - it means you had more money in your paycheck throughout the year instead of giving the government an interest-free loan. Try to think of it that way!
Have you tried contacting your local Taxpayer Assistance Center instead of the national number? Sometimes you can get an in-person appointment and avoid the phone system entirely. I had a similar issue with my first tax return after college.
As someone who just went through this nightmare last month, I feel your pain! Here's what actually worked for me after trying everything else: Call 800-829-1040 at exactly 7:00 AM EST on a Wednesday or Thursday. When you get to the automated menu, press 1 for English, then immediately press 2-1-3-2. Don't enter your SSN when prompted - just wait through the silence. This usually gets you to a human in about 45-60 minutes instead of the usual 2+ hours. Pro tip: Use speaker phone and do something else while you wait. I cleaned my entire apartment during one call lol. Also, since you filed in February and it's now been over 2 months, you might want to check your tax transcript online first at irs.gov. There could be a processing code that explains the delay. Sometimes they need additional verification for first-time filers, especially recent graduates. Good luck! The adult tax world is definitely a learning curve but you've got this! šŖ
The community consensus on this issue is that it's almost always one of three things: 1) A math error on your return that the IRS automatically corrected, 2) A verification hold that requires additional documentation, or 3) An income phase-out that affected your eligibility. Compared to the old stimulus payment issues from 2020-2021, today's Child Tax Credit problems are usually resolved much faster. Most members here report resolution within 60 days versus the 6+ months we saw during the pandemic processing backlog.
As someone new to the US tax system, I'd recommend starting with the basics before jumping into complex procedures. First, download your tax transcript from the IRS website (irs.gov/individuals/get-transcript) - this will show exactly what payments the IRS has on record for you. The $1400 you're missing could be related to the Child Tax Credit, not the Recovery Rebate Credit, since those stimulus payments ended in 2021. Check if you have qualifying children and verify your income falls within the phase-out limits. If your transcript shows discrepancies, then you can determine whether you need Form 1040X or if there's a simpler resolution. Don't rush into filing amendments until you understand what the IRS actually processed vs. what you expected!
I'm confused about one thing - does the military exemption just apply to the 2-year ownership rule or does it also extend the capital gains exclusion amount? My friend told me military gets a higher exclusion than $500k but that seems too good to be true??
Your friend is incorrect. Military members get the same capital gains exclusion amount as everyone else - $500k for married filing jointly or $250k for single filers. What's different for military is that if you're forced to move due to orders before meeting the 2-year requirement, you may qualify for a prorated exclusion based on how long you actually did live there. There's also a provision that allows you to suspend the 5-year test period for up to 10 years when on qualified official extended duty. But the maximum exclusion amount remains the same - it's just that military members get more flexibility with the timing requirements due to the nature of service.
Just wanted to jump in here as someone who went through this exact scenario! Your buddy is definitely mixing up the old rules - there's no 6-month requirement to buy another house to avoid capital gains tax. Since you owned and lived in your home as your primary residence for over 2 years and you're married filing jointly, you qualify for the full $500,000 capital gains exclusion. Your $125k profit is well under that threshold, so you won't owe any capital gains tax regardless of when (or if) you buy your next home. The military connection actually works in your favor here too. If you hadn't quite hit the 2-year mark due to PCS moves, there are special provisions that could still help you qualify. But since you're already over 2 years, you're in great shape. One thing to keep in mind - while your home sale profit won't be taxed, any interest you earn on that $125k in your high-yield savings account will be taxable as regular income. So just factor that into your planning when you're setting money aside for next year's taxes. You can breathe easy on this one - no surprise tax bill coming your way from the home sale!
QuantumQueen
Just FYI - eBay is changing their reporting thresholds. For 2022 tax year the threshold was $600 before they issue a 1099-K, but the IRS delayed implementing that. Just be prepared that you might get 1099s in the future for much smaller amounts of selling.
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Aisha Rahman
ā¢The threshold change keeps getting delayed tho. Wasn't it supposed to start in 2022, then 2023, and now 2024? I don't think they'll ever actually implement it tbh.
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Amelia Dietrich
I've been dealing with similar eBay tax confusion myself. One thing that really helped me was keeping detailed records of everything - not just the sale prices, but also what I originally paid for each item, when I bought it, and any selling expenses like shipping and eBay fees. The key distinction everyone's mentioned between hobby vs business is crucial. If you're just selling personal collectibles you've owned for years (like cleaning out your collection), that's very different from regularly buying items with the intent to flip them for profit. The IRS has specific tests for this - they look at whether you're doing it regularly, if you depend on the income, and if you're putting significant time and effort into making a profit. For your $1100 net profit, definitely keep all your documentation. Even if you don't get audited, having those records makes filing much easier and gives you confidence you're reporting correctly. And like others said, you still need to report the income even without a 1099 - the IRS expects you to report all income regardless of whether you receive tax forms.
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Louisa Ramirez
ā¢This is really helpful advice! I'm new to all this tax stuff but I'm in a similar boat - sold some old Pokemon cards and comic books I've had since I was a kid. The record-keeping part seems overwhelming though. Do you have any tips for organizing everything after the fact? I have PayPal records and eBay transaction history, but matching up what I originally paid for things years ago is proving difficult. Should I estimate based on what similar items were selling for back then, or is that not acceptable to the IRS?
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