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If nothing else works, you can also file Form 4852 (Substitute for W-2) with your tax return. You'll need to estimate your wages and withholding as accurately as possible using your final paystub or other records.
I did this last year and it was a pain trying to estimate everything correctly. Ended up having to file an amended return later when I finally got the real numbers. I'd try the transcript route first if possible!
I went through this exact situation two years ago and it was so stressful! My old employer kept giving me the runaround too. What finally worked for me was sending them a certified letter (not just calling) stating that I needed my W-2 by a specific date and mentioning the IRS penalties for non-compliance that others have mentioned here. In the meantime, I'd definitely recommend getting your wage transcript from the IRS as your backup plan. The online account setup is really straightforward and you get the info instantly. Don't risk filing an incomplete return - it's just not worth the potential headaches later. Also, if you're really pressed for time, remember you can always file for an extension. Better to file correctly with an extension than rush and file incorrectly by the deadline. The IRS cares more about accuracy than speed.
This is really helpful advice! I never thought about sending a certified letter - that seems like it would get their attention way more than phone calls. How long did it take them to respond after you sent the certified letter? I'm wondering if I still have enough time before the deadline to try this approach first before going the IRS transcript route.
Has anyone considered the home office deduction angle instead of medical? If you have a legitimate home office where you do therapy or medical management for your family member, some security costs might be deductible that way too.
That's an interesting approach, but be careful mixing these deductions. The IRS is very strict about home office deductions and they need to be exclusively used for business. If you're using the space for both personal family care and business, you could run into issues.
Thank you all for this incredibly helpful discussion! As someone new to navigating medical expense deductions, I'm dealing with a similar situation where my elderly father with Alzheimer's needs additional security measures to prevent wandering incidents. From what I'm gathering here, the key seems to be: 1. Getting proper medical documentation that establishes necessity (not just convenience) 2. Understanding the 7.5% AGI threshold requirement 3. Keeping detailed records of all medical-related components vs general security features 4. Being prepared for potential IRS questions with comprehensive documentation I'm particularly interested in the services mentioned like taxr.ai for getting initial guidance on whether expenses qualify, and Claimyr for actually speaking with IRS representatives when you need official clarification. Has anyone had experience using both services, or would you recommend one over the other for different situations? Also wondering - for those who successfully claimed these deductions, did you work with a tax professional or handle it yourself? I'm trying to decide if the complexity warrants professional help or if the documentation process is straightforward enough to manage independently.
Has anyone successfully carried forward capital losses from worthless securities to future tax years? I'm in a similar situation with about $20k in losses, but my income isn't high enough to use all the losses in one year with that $3,000 annual limit.
Yes, I've been carrying forward losses for years. Just keep track of your remaining loss balance on worksheet in the Schedule D instructions each year. You'll enter the carryover amount on Schedule D the following year. I started with a $32k loss in 2019 and I'm still working through it at $3k per year.
For anyone dealing with worthless securities, definitely check if your broker has any documentation available before going elsewhere. I had a similar situation with Schwab and they actually had a "Corporate Actions" section in my account history that showed when companies were delisted or went bankrupt. One thing to be really careful about - the IRS is pretty strict about the "worthlessness" year. It's not when the stock price hits zero, but when it becomes legally worthless (like through bankruptcy or delisting). Sometimes there's a gap between when a stock stops trading and when it's officially worthless for tax purposes. Also, if you're planning to amend multiple years, do them in order starting with the earliest year. The IRS processes amendments sequentially and it can get messy if they receive them out of order.
This is really helpful advice! I'm new to dealing with worthless securities and didn't realize there was such an important distinction between when a stock price goes to zero versus when it's legally worthless. That could definitely affect which tax year I should be claiming my losses in. Quick question - if I have stocks that stopped trading years ago but the company never formally filed for bankruptcy, how do I determine the "worthlessness" year? Some of my penny stocks just disappeared from my account but I'm not sure if there was ever an official delisting notice.
When I filled out my insolvency worksheet, I took pictures of all my furniture and household items and asked a local thrift store manager to give me a rough estimate of what they would price them at. The IRS accepted this documentation when they questioned my values.
That's actually really smart. Did you just walk into a thrift store and ask, or did you need to know someone who worked there? I'm trying to figure out how to document my old furniture values.
I went through this exact same process about two years ago with a 2017 debt cancellation. The IRS audit was stressful, but here's what I learned that might help: For household goods, I used a simple rule: whatever I could reasonably expect to get at a garage sale. For thrift store items, I valued them at about 25-50% of what I originally paid. The IRS examiner told me they're looking for reasonable estimates, not exact appraisals. Regarding missing records - I was able to recreate some utility bills by calling the companies directly. Even though it was years later, most kept basic account history that showed my average monthly payments during that period. For medical bills, I contacted my insurance company for explanation of benefits statements that showed what I owed. One thing that really helped was creating a simple spreadsheet with three columns: Asset/Liability, Value/Amount, and Notes explaining my reasoning. The IRS examiner appreciated the organized format and clear explanations. For your land contract situation, definitely include it as a mortgage liability. I had something similar and the IRS considered it a legitimate debt obligation since I was contractually bound to make payments. Don't stress too much about perfect accuracy - they understand records get lost over time. Just be reasonable and document your thought process.
Javier Morales
Has anyone actually looked at the Terms of Service for this company? I had a similar issue with another US retailer and found that buried in their terms was language about "all applicable taxes and fees may be charged based on internal company policies." Basically giving themselves wiggle room to charge whatever they want. It might not be legally enforceable, but they could argue you agreed to their terms which include potentially paying these fees. Might be worth checking if there's something like that in their terms.
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Natasha Petrov
ā¢Even if it's in their terms of service, they can't override actual tax law. Companies can't just make up taxes or charge taxes they're not required to collect. That would be misrepresentation. A term of service that violates consumer protection laws wouldn't be enforceable, regardless of whether you "agreed" to it.
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Mei Liu
This is a classic case of incorrect sales tax application on international orders. As someone who's dealt with similar issues, I can confirm that you should absolutely NOT be charged US sales tax as a UK resident receiving goods in the UK. The key principle here is that US sales tax is destination-based, not origin-based. Since your goods are being consumed in the UK (where you'll pay UK VAT and duties), they should qualify for the export exemption from US sales tax. The company's claim about collecting tax based on shipping "FROM" a US jurisdiction is completely backwards - that's not how sales tax works. My suggestion would be to escalate this beyond regular customer service. Ask to speak with their tax department or compliance team, and specifically mention the "export exemption" for goods shipped internationally. Reference IRC Section 4221(a)(2) if you need to cite specific tax code - it covers exemptions for exported articles. If they continue to refuse, consider filing a complaint with the attorney general's office in the state where they're located (Kentucky or New Jersey, based on your post). Companies sometimes change their tune quickly when they realize they might face regulatory scrutiny for improper tax collection. Don't let them keep money they have no legal right to collect!
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Zane Hernandez
ā¢This is incredibly helpful, thank you! I had no idea about the IRC Section 4221(a)(2) reference - having specific tax code to cite should definitely strengthen my case when I contact them again. I'm curious about filing with the attorney general's office though. Would that actually be effective for something like this, or would they just refer me back to resolving it directly with the company? I've never dealt with regulatory complaints before so I'm not sure what to expect from that process. Also, do you happen to know if there's a time limit on getting refunds for sales tax that was incorrectly collected? I've been paying this for over a year before I realized it was wrong, so I'm wondering if I can get all of that back or just recent purchases.
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