Has anyone actually calculated what this cash back approach is costing? I did this for a while until I realized how expensive it was. Let's break it down: If you're getting $1,200/month via cash advances with a 4% fee and 24.99% interest, and you pay your bill 15 days after the advance (on average): - $1,200 × 4% fee = $48/month in fees - $1,200 × 24.99% × (15/365) ≈ $12.30 in interest - Total: about $60/month or $720/year just for the convenience That's WAY more expensive than just using an ATM, even with fees!

Just wanted to add another perspective as someone who made this same mistake. I was doing exactly what you're describing - getting cash back on credit card purchases regularly without realizing the true cost. The real wake-up call came when I realized I was essentially paying $700+ per year just for the "convenience" of getting cash this way. That's money that could have gone toward paying down debt, savings, or literally anything else more productive. Beyond the financial aspect, I also learned that banks have algorithms that flag unusual patterns of cash transactions. Even though what you're doing isn't illegal, it can potentially affect your relationship with your bank if they start viewing your account as higher risk. My advice: switch to using your debit card at ATMs or getting cash back with debit purchases at stores. Most grocery stores, pharmacies, and gas stations offer cash back with debit at no fee. If you need larger amounts of cash regularly, consider opening an account with a credit union that reimburses ATM fees - many offer this benefit and it's still way cheaper than credit card cash advances. The peace of mind of not having to worry about suspicious transaction patterns plus saving hundreds per year in fees makes it a no-brainer decision.

Hey everyone, I work at a bank (not saying which one). When TPG shows "funded" it means they have received your refund from the IRS, but they still need to process it on their end. They batch process payments, usually at the end of the day. If your refund hit TPG on a Friday afternoon, it might not be processed until Monday or Tuesday. Then it takes 1-2 business days for ACH transfers to complete. So realistically, you're looking at 3-5 business days AFTER the funded status appears.

I'm in almost the identical situation! Filed on March 3rd, got a 3/17 DDD, and TPG has been showing "funded" since 3/16. Still nothing in my Chase account as of today. This is my first time using a tax service that deducts fees from the refund and I had no idea it would add all these delays. The stress is real when you're counting on that money! Reading through all these comments makes me feel better knowing I'm not alone, but also frustrated that TPG seems to consistently take way longer than they advertise. Definitely going to pay fees upfront next year to avoid this middleman nightmare.

lmao everyone giving different advice 😂 welcome to tax hell where nobody knows what's happening, not even the IRS themselves most of the time. I tried calling them 47 times last year and never got through. ended up using claimyr.com to get an agent on the phone who told me completely different info than what was on their own website. The system is beyond broken.

The transcript codes you're seeing are actually pretty common when the IRS detects missing income. The 810 freeze means they're reviewing your return, 570 is the refund hold, and 571 indicates they've resolved part of the issue. Since you already found the missing W2s, you have a few options: 1. Wait it out - The IRS might automatically adjust your return and send you a CP12 notice with the corrected refund amount 2. File Form 1040-X amendment - This is the "proper" way but could take 16+ weeks to process 3. Call the IRS directly to discuss your specific situation Given that it's $3,200 in missing income, I'd lean toward being proactive and filing the amendment. It shows good faith and might help avoid penalties. The waiting game is risky because if they assess penalties and interest, those accrue from your original filing deadline. Check your cycle code though - if it ends in 05, your transcript updates on Thursdays. Might be worth waiting one more week to see if they resolve it automatically before amending.

Has anyone had success with TurboTax for crypto? I used FreeTaxUSA last year but I'm wondering if TurboTax might handle the PayPal crypto better since they advertise crypto support.

I went through this exact same situation last year with PayPal crypto transactions! The key thing to understand is that PayPal's CSV files are actually pretty comprehensive once you know what to look for. The "Gains and Loss" statement should contain most of what you need for tax reporting. Here's what worked for me: I opened both CSV files and created a simple mapping between what PayPal calls things and what FreeTaxUSA needs. For example, PayPal might label the purchase price as "Original Amount" but FreeTaxUSA wants "Cost Basis" - it's the same number, just different terminology. One tip that saved me hours: PayPal sometimes splits transactions across multiple lines in their CSV (like fees on separate rows), so make sure you're matching up the right buy/sell pairs. I found it helpful to sort by date and crypto type first. If you're still stuck, the manual entry route isn't as bad as it seems - I had about 15 transactions and it took maybe 30 minutes once I understood the format. The important thing is to be consistent and keep good records in case the IRS asks questions later.

Anyone know which specific IRS form I should fill out to dispute this kind of adjustment? The "math error" notice feels so vague and I want to make sure I'm using the right form when I respond.

I went through something very similar last year and it turned out to be a simple mistake on my part with the Child Tax Credit calculation. The $216 difference you're seeing is actually pretty common - it's usually either a credit that was miscalculated or a deduction that doesn't match what the IRS has on file. Here's what I'd suggest: First, look at your original return and compare line by line with what's on your transcript. Pay special attention to any credits you claimed (Earned Income Credit, Child Tax Credit, Education Credits, etc.) since those are the most common sources of these discrepancies. The good news is that if you can prove your calculation was correct, you can get that $272 back. Just make sure to respond within the 60-day window mentioned in your notice. I ended up owing less than what the IRS initially said after I provided the right documentation. Also, keep in mind that sometimes these "corrections" are actually wrong on the IRS side - they're not infallible. Don't just accept it without double-checking your work first.