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Just chiming in to add my experience as someone who didn't file for 5 years (2016-2020) and finally caught up last year. The biggest surprise was that I was actually OWED money for 3 of those 5 years because I had too much withheld from my paychecks! Unfortunately I could only get refunds for 2020 since the others were outside the 3-year window, but I was relieved there were no penalties since I was due refunds. The peace of mind from being caught up is worth it even though I lost out on some refund money. Whether you should file really depends on if you had taxes withheld that were more than what you would have owed. If you were a W-2 employee with normal withholding, there's a decent chance you're owed money rather than owing the IRS.
This is so important! Most people assume they'll owe if they didn't file, but often W-2 employees have too much withheld and are actually due refunds. The IRS doesn't penalize you if they owe YOU money!
Gabriel, I can definitely understand your stress about this! From what you've shared, you're actually in a pretty good position since you've gotten current with 2021-2023. Here's my take on your specific situation: Since you're primarily concerned about FAFSA eligibility for January, you should be fine. FAFSA typically uses the "prior-prior year" tax information, so for starting school in January 2025, they'll likely want your 2023 return (which you have filed). However, I'd still lean toward filing those back years (2017-2020) for a few reasons: 1. You mentioned wanting peace of mind - unfiled returns can create anxiety that lingers 2. If you were a W-2 employee during those years, there's a decent chance you're owed refunds (especially for 2020, which you might still be able to claim) 3. It eliminates any future complications if you need tax transcripts for loans, employment background checks, or other purposes Before spending money on a tax preparer though, I'd suggest trying to figure out if you were even required to file for those years. If your income was below the filing threshold for any of those years, you wouldn't need to file at all. You can check the IRS website for historical filing thresholds by year. The fact that your current tax preparer seemed confused suggests he might not specialize in back tax situations - you might want to consult with someone who has more experience with unfiled returns to get a clearer picture of your obligations and potential refunds.
This is really solid advice! I'm in a similar boat and was wondering - do you know roughly what those historical filing thresholds were for single filers? I'm trying to figure out if I even needed to file for 2018 when I was working part-time and only made around $9,000. It seems like there might be a threshold below which you don't have to file at all, but I can't find the specific numbers for those older years.
Sometimes the IRS mail just gets lost too. The USPS in my area has been terrible lately. I'd proceed as if you're enrolled and take steps to opt out rather than waiting for a letter that might never come.
Check your IRS online account at irs.gov - you can see your CTC enrollment status there without needing the letter. If you're enrolled, there's an "unenroll" or "opt out" option right in the portal. I had the same issue last year where I never got the physical notice but could handle everything online. Just make sure to do it before the deadline mentioned above!
Have you noticed how the IRS seems to release refunds in batches by filing date? I filed on January 29th and got my DDD for 2/19, received via Chime on 2/17. My brother filed February 1st and got his DDD for 2/26 - same batch as you. Seems like they're processing weekly batches for straightforward returns. Did anyone who filed in early February get a different DDD than 2/26? Or is the pattern holding?
I'm in the same boat as you! Filed on January 31st and just got my DDD for 2/26 too. Still waiting for it to hit my Chase account though - looks like I'll be one of those traditional bank folks waiting until the actual date. It's interesting how consistent the IRS batching seems to be this year. I'm curious if anyone with Credit Karma Money or Current has seen early releases like Chime? Those neo-banks usually follow similar early release policies.
Has anyone experienced Robinhood being late with their 1099s? Last year they said mid-February but I didn't get mine until almost March 1st!
Yep, happened to me too. They claimed "mid-February" but it was February 27th when I finally got mine. I ended up filing in early March and still got my refund in reasonable time. Better to file correctly than deal with amendments.
I'm dealing with a similar situation and wanted to share what I learned from calling my tax preparer. They told me that crypto platforms like Robinhood often have slightly different cost basis calculations than what you might track manually, especially if you made multiple buys and sells of the same crypto. The 1099-B will show the "proceeds" (what you received when you sold) and the "cost basis" (what the platform calculated you originally paid). Sometimes their wash sale adjustments or FIFO/LIFO calculations can be different from your spreadsheet. My advice would be to wait for the official forms. I know it's tempting to file early, especially with all those TurboTax reminders, but the peace of mind is worth the extra few weeks. Plus, if you're getting a refund, the IRS processes returns pretty quickly once they start accepting them in late January anyway. One thing that might help - you can set up an account on the IRS website and check if Robinhood has already submitted your 1099 information electronically, even before you receive the physical/electronic copy.
This is really helpful advice! I didn't know you could check on the IRS website to see if they've already received the 1099 information from Robinhood. How exactly do you do that? Do you just log into your IRS account and look for submitted forms, or is there a specific section for checking what third parties have reported? I'm in a similar boat waiting for my crypto forms and this could really help me decide whether to wait or if I have enough info to file accurately.
Zoe Stavros
Does anyone know how Vanguard's individual 401k plan compares to others like Fidelity? I've been thinking about setting one up but heard Vanguard's plan is more limited in some ways.
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Jamal Harris
ā¢I switched from Vanguard to Fidelity for my solo 401k last year. Vanguard's plan is decent but Fidelity offers more investment options and allows Roth contributions for the employee portion. Vanguard didn't have the Roth option when I was with them. Fidelity also has a better online interface for managing the account and doesn't charge any fees. The biggest difference though is that Fidelity accepts rollovers from other retirement accounts, which Vanguard's individual 401k doesn't. That was the deal-breaker for me.
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Chloe Harris
I've been through this exact same confusion with my Solo 401(k) setup! The key thing that helped me understand is that the IRS has different rules for different business structures, and as an S-Corp owner, you're actually in a simpler situation than sole proprietors. Since you're paying yourself a W-2 salary from your S-Corp, your employer contribution limit is straightforward: 25% of your W-2 compensation. The complex calculation with the "OR" statement you found applies to sole proprietors who file Schedule C, because they have to account for self-employment tax deductions. For S-Corp owners like yourself: - Employee contribution: Up to $23,000 for 2024 (or $30,500 if 50+) - Employer contribution: Up to 25% of your W-2 salary - Combined total: Cannot exceed $69,000 for 2024 (or $76,500 with catch-up) If you've been using the 25% of salary method and staying under the combined limits, you've been doing it correctly. The fact that you've been working with Vanguard (a reputable provider) and staying under the maximums is a good sign you're on the right track. That said, if you want absolute peace of mind about previous years, consider having a tax professional review your contributions or contact the IRS directly for confirmation specific to your situation.
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Daniel Price
ā¢This is such a helpful breakdown! I'm new to Solo 401(k)s and was getting overwhelmed by all the different rules I kept reading about online. Your explanation about how S-Corp owners have it simpler than sole proprietors really clarifies things. One quick follow-up question - when you mention "combined total cannot exceed $69,000," does that mean if I max out my employee contribution at $23,000, I could still do $46,000 as employer contribution (assuming my salary supports the 25% calculation)? Or are there other factors that might limit this? I'm trying to figure out what salary level I'd need to pay myself from my S-Corp to maximize both types of contributions.
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