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I verified in person on February 17th, 2024, and saw my "as of" date change on February 23rd. Then on March 2nd, I got all my transcript codes including the 846 refund issued code! The deposit hit my account on March 7th exactly as scheduled. In-person verification definitely speeds things up. Just hang tight - you're on the right track!
That "as of" date change is definitely a positive sign, especially after your in-person verification! I've been tracking patterns in this community for a while, and typically when the "as of" date updates following verification, it means your return has been released from the verification hold and is now actively being processed. For amended returns, you'll usually see the next update within 7-14 days - look for transaction codes like 971 (notice issued) or 977 (amended return processing). Keep checking throughout the day since updates can happen anytime, not just overnight. The fact that yours moved from 3/15 to 4/22 suggests they're working on your case right now. Stay patient but optimistic! š¤
Thanks for breaking down the timeline so clearly! I'm new to all this transcript checking stuff and honestly feeling pretty overwhelmed by all the codes and dates. Your explanation about the 971/977 codes is super helpful - I had no idea what to look for next. Quick question: when you say "actively being processed," does that mean someone is literally working on my return right now, or is it more like it's in a queue waiting to be worked on? Just trying to manage my expectations here! š
I wanna add a different perspective here. I used to ONLY use free tax filing until last year when I started a small side business. My taxes suddenly got way more complicated with Schedule C, business expenses, quarterly payments, etc. I tried to use the free version but kept second-guessing every decision. Eventually broke down and paid for TurboTax Self-Employed, and honestly it was worth every penny. The guidance on business deductions alone saved me way more than the cost of the software. So maybe the answer is: use free when your situation is simple, but be willing to pay when things get complex. Just my 2 cents (which I properly reported as income lol).
Plus some "free" services end up charging you if you need to file certain forms. I tried using Credit Karma (now Cash App Taxes) last year but it wouldn't let me file with a home office deduction without upgrading to a paid tier. So "free" isn't always actually free once you get into it.
You're absolutely right to question this! I've been in the same boat for years - simple W-2, maybe a 1099 here and there, standard deduction. The free options have worked perfectly for me. I think a lot of people just don't know about the truly free options. The big companies spend millions on advertising and make their free versions hard to find (as someone mentioned with the TurboTax controversy). Plus there's a psychology factor - people assume "free" means lower quality, even when it's literally the same calculations. That said, I've noticed the free services can be less hand-holdy. They assume you know what you're doing and don't walk you through every possible deduction like the paid versions do. For someone confident with basic taxes like us, that's fine. But I can see how someone who's nervous about taxes might prefer paying for more guidance and support. The real trap is when people get upsold mid-way through filing. You start with "free" then discover you need to pay to actually submit, or to include a form you didn't expect. Always read the fine print!
Just went through this process last year. Make sure you're extremely thorough with Form 433-A (Collection Information Statement). The IRS will scrutinize every detail of your financial situation. Document ALL your medical expenses related to your disability because those can be counted as necessary living expenses. Also, consider checking if you qualify for Currently Not Collectible status as an alternative. With your situation (no assets, on disability), you might qualify. This doesn't eliminate the debt, but puts collections on hold. The IRS determined I was CNC last year and it bought me time while I improved my situation.
How much did you end up settling for compared to what you originally owed? I owe about $18k but literally have nothing to my name right now... wondering if it's even worth applying?
Andre, your situation is actually quite common and you definitely have options. Being on workers' comp while applying for an OIC isn't a barrier - in fact, it can strengthen your case since it demonstrates limited earning capacity. A few additional points to consider beyond what others have mentioned: 1) Make sure to include all your medical expenses related to your motorcycle accident as allowable living expenses on Form 433-A. This includes ongoing treatments, medications, physical therapy, etc. 2) Since you're in Washington State, you'll also want to address the state tax debt eventually, but focusing on federal first is smart since the IRS processes are generally more established. 3) Document your disability thoroughly - the IRS needs to understand this isn't a temporary situation where you'll be back to full earning capacity soon. 4) Consider whether you might qualify for "doubt as to collectibility" (you can't pay) versus "effective tax administration" (paying would create economic hardship). Given your circumstances, doubt as to collectibility seems most appropriate. The fact that you only made $12K in 2020 before your accident and are now on disability payments should work in your favor for demonstrating inability to pay. Just make sure every expense you claim is reasonable and well-documented.
This is really helpful advice, Miguel! I'm curious about the medical expenses part - do things like adaptive equipment or home modifications for disability count as allowable expenses? After my accident I had to get some equipment to help with daily tasks, and I'm wondering if those one-time costs or ongoing maintenance would be considered by the IRS when calculating my ability to pay. Also, you mentioned documenting that this isn't temporary - should I be getting specific documentation from my doctors about long-term prognosis, or is the workers' comp determination of 100% Temporary Total Disability sufficient for the IRS?
Just want to add an important consideration here - don't forget about Section 179! If the building was eligible and the previous owners took Section 179 depreciation (immediately expensed rather than depreciating over time), that can significantly change the situation. In my experience with S corp transitions, any Section 179 property keeps that treatment even with new owners if it was a stock purchase. But check if there are recapture issues if the property isn't being used for the same business purpose.
Can Section 179 even be used for buildings though? I thought it was mainly for equipment and other personal property, not real estate.
You're absolutely right about buildings - thanks for the correction. Section 179 generally cannot be used for buildings themselves (with very limited exceptions for qualified improvement property or certain components). I should have been more clear that I was thinking about any equipment or other personal property that might have been part of the purchase. For those assets, Section 179 considerations would apply. For the building itself, you're dealing with regular MACRS depreciation, and the original question about continuing the existing schedule versus starting over is the key issue.
Has anyone mentioned Form 8594 (Asset Acquisition Statement) yet? If your purchase was structured as an asset acquisition rather than a stock purchase, you would have needed to file this with both buyer and seller returns to show how the purchase price was allocated among asset classes. This directly impacts depreciation.
That's a great point! And if they did file 8594, wouldn't that mean they already determined if it was an asset purchase (which would mean new depreciation schedules)? Seems like checking if this form was filed with the 2022 return would answer the original question pretty directly.
Exactly! @Sergio Neal makes an excellent point. @Asher Levin, if you check your 2022 tax return and see Form 8594 was filed, that definitively means it was structured as an asset purchase and you should be starting fresh depreciation schedules based on your allocated purchase price for the building. If no Form 8594 was filed, it was likely a stock purchase and you d'continue the existing depreciation schedule. This is probably the quickest way to get your answer without having to dig through all the purchase agreement details.
Ethan Taylor
I think your plan looks right, but here's one tip from my own experience - double check your 2024 contribution limit. The standard limit for 2024 is $7,000 (or $8,000 if your husband is 50 or older). That $2,500 number from TurboTax seems odd unless there's something specific about your situation limiting contributions.
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Yuki Ito
ā¢The $2,500 might be a calculated limit based on income or retirement plan participation. If the husband has a workplace retirement plan and their income is above certain thresholds, their traditional IRA deduction can be limited or eliminated.
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Everett Tutum
Your approach looks solid overall! Just wanted to add one more consideration that might help with future years - once you've dealt with this excess contribution situation, consider setting up automatic contribution limits in your Fidelity account to prevent this from happening again. Most brokerages allow you to set annual contribution caps that will reject any deposits that would put you over the limit. Since you mentioned this was discovered late in the tax process, having that automatic safeguard could save you from penalties and paperwork headaches down the road. Also, keep detailed records of how you handled this excess contribution across both tax years. If the IRS ever questions the discrepancy between your Form 5498 amounts and your deduction amounts, having clear documentation of the excess contribution treatment will make any potential audit much smoother.
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Mia Rodriguez
ā¢That's really good advice about setting up automatic contribution limits! I had no idea brokerages offered that feature. After going through this headache with the excess contribution, I'm definitely going to look into setting that up with Fidelity. The documentation point is especially important too. I've been keeping all the forms and calculations in a separate folder, but I should probably write up a summary explaining exactly how we handled the excess contribution situation. That way if there are any questions years from now, I won't have to piece together what happened from scattered documents. Thanks for the practical tips - this whole experience has been a learning curve but these suggestions will help prevent it from happening again!
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