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Caden Nguyen

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I feel your pain - went through something very similar last year and it's incredibly frustrating to owe taxes when your portfolio is actually down. One thing that helped me understand my situation better was creating a simple spreadsheet tracking all my wash sale adjustments. I listed each disallowed loss and which replacement shares got the basis adjustment. This helped me see exactly where my "missing" losses went and gave me confidence that I'd eventually get them back when I sell those positions. Also, don't panic about owing taxes on phantom gains - while it sucks in the short term, those deferred losses are sitting in your replacement shares' cost basis. As long as you eventually sell those shares without triggering another wash sale, you'll get the tax benefit. The timing just gets shifted around. For this year's filing, make sure you're reporting everything correctly on Form 8949 with the proper wash sale codes. If your broker didn't catch all the wash sales (especially if you trade across multiple accounts), you might need to make additional adjustments. The IRS takes wash sale reporting seriously, so getting it right is important. Hang in there - once you get through this tax year, you can plan better strategies to avoid this mess in the future!

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This is really helpful advice, especially the spreadsheet idea! I'm definitely going to try that to track where all my disallowed losses went. One quick question though - you mentioned that brokers might not catch all wash sales, especially across multiple accounts. How would I even know if my broker missed some? Is there a way to double-check their wash sale calculations, or do I need to manually go through every single trade?

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Logan Chiang

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I went through this exact nightmare two years ago and it nearly gave me a panic attack! Had about $55K in disallowed wash sale losses while my actual portfolio was down around $20K. The "phantom gains" tax bill was brutal. Here's what I learned that might help you: First, double-check that your broker correctly identified ALL wash sales. Mine missed several because I had some trades in a second account with them. Wash sales apply across all your accounts with the same SSN, not just individual accounts. Second, if you're still holding any of those replacement shares from the wash sales, consider whether it makes sense to sell them before year-end (as long as you don't repurchase within 30 days). This would finally allow you to recognize those deferred losses. The most important thing though - keep detailed records of everything. I created a master spreadsheet showing every wash sale, which replacement shares got the basis adjustment, and which ones I still owned. This saved me when I got audited the following year. One last tip: if your situation is really complex, consider getting professional help. I ended up paying a CPA who specializes in trader taxes about $800, but they found an additional $12K in losses I had missed and properly structured everything for the IRS. Sometimes it's worth the investment to get it right. You're not alone in this - wash sales catch a lot of active traders off guard. The silver lining is that those losses aren't gone forever, just deferred. Hang in there!

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Thank you so much for sharing your experience - it's reassuring to know I'm not the only one who's been through this mess! Your point about brokers missing wash sales across accounts is really important. I actually do have positions spread across two different brokerages, so I'm wondering if that could be part of my problem. When you mentioned getting audited the following year, that's terrifying! Was the audit specifically because of the wash sale situation, or was it just bad luck? I'm already stressed about filing correctly this year, and the thought of an audit on top of everything else is making me even more anxious. The idea of selling replacement shares before year-end to recognize the losses is interesting, but I'm worried about making any moves right now without fully understanding the consequences. Did you end up doing that, and if so, how did you decide which positions to sell? I'm definitely considering getting professional help at this point. The $800 you paid sounds worth it if they found an additional $12K in losses! Do you have any advice on finding a CPA who specializes in trader taxes? I don't want to go to just anyone and have them mess this up even worse.

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Has anyone used the IRS's own QBI worksheet rather than online calculators? I found it in the Form 1040 instructions and it seems more detailed than most online tools. It definitely accounts for the thresholds and limitations we're discussing.

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Paolo Ricci

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I tried the IRS worksheet last year and it was helpful but super time-consuming. It's about 12 pages of calculations! The forms correctly handle the wage limitations and phase-out thresholds, but you need to be really careful about entering everything perfectly. I made a small error that cascaded through the calculations and had to start over twice.

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The IRS worksheet is definitely the most accurate approach, but you're right about it being complex. As a CPA who helps clients with QBI calculations regularly, I always recommend starting with the official worksheet to get the correct baseline calculation before using any online tools. One tip that helps avoid calculation errors: work through each section methodically and double-check that your "qualified business income" number excludes reasonable compensation from your S-corp. I see clients mess this up frequently - they include their W-2 wages in the QBI amount when it should only be the remaining business profits. For Dylan's original question about the $340K joint income with $250K from the S-corp - make sure you're clear on whether that $250K is before or after your reasonable compensation. If it's after, then you're on the right track. If it includes your salary, you'll need to subtract that first to get your actual QBI amount.

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Max Reyes

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This is really helpful clarification! I think this might be where I went wrong with my calculations. When I said $250K from my S-corp, that was actually the total business income before paying myself. I pay myself $80K in reasonable compensation, so my actual QBI would be $170K, not $250K. That changes the calculation significantly - 20% of $170K is only $34K potential deduction. With the $80K in W-2 wages, the limitation would be 50% of $80K = $40K, so I'd still get the full $34K deduction even above the income threshold. Thanks for catching that - no wonder the online calculator seemed off!

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Fiona Sand

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Something similar happened to my brother last year. What finally worked was having his accountant contact the IRS Practitioner Priority Service. This is a special hotline for tax professionals that often gets better results than the regular channels. Since your accountant made the error, they should be willing to help resolve this through their professional channels. My brother's accountant was able to get the IRS to issue a manual refund check after proving the original deposit was an error.

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This is great advice. Tax professionals definitely have better access channels to the IRS. I'd also suggest asking your accountant if they have errors and omissions insurance that might cover this situation since they made the mistake.

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Miguel Ortiz

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I went through this exact same situation two years ago and it was incredibly stressful. Here's what I learned that might help you: The key is understanding that once the IRS confirms the deposit went to the account number listed on your return, they consider their obligation fulfilled. At that point, it becomes a civil matter between you and whoever received your funds. You mentioned Chase hasn't returned the money - this is actually crucial. If the account exists and is active, the account holder legally has possession of funds that don't belong to them. You may need to take legal action against the account holder directly. I'd recommend: 1. Get written confirmation from the IRS that the refund was deposited to the wrong account due to an error on your return 2. Demand Chase provide you with information about the account holder (they may resist, but you have legal grounds since it involves your money) 3. Consider small claims court against the account holder if they won't return the funds voluntarily In my case, once I threatened legal action against the person whose account received my refund, they cooperated with the bank to return the money. The whole process took about 6 weeks, but I did get my full refund back. Don't give up - $5,400 is worth fighting for, and you do have legal recourse here.

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This is really helpful, thank you! I hadn't considered the legal angle of going after the account holder directly. Can you share more details about how you got Chase to provide information about the account holder? I'm assuming they initially said they couldn't share that due to privacy policies. Also, when you threatened legal action, did you actually have to file anything in court or did just the threat work? I'm trying to figure out if I need to budget for attorney fees on top of everything else.

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Debra Bai

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Getting Chase to provide account holder information required persistence and the right legal language. I started by filing a formal written complaint with Chase's executive customer service, citing the Uniform Commercial Code provisions that require banks to assist in recovering misdirected funds. I also referenced the fact that retaining funds that don't belong to you constitutes unjust enrichment under most state laws. Initially they refused, but when I mentioned I was prepared to subpoena the information through small claims court, they became more cooperative. I never actually had to file - just showing them I understood the legal process and was serious about pursuing it was enough. I drafted a demand letter that my friend who's a paralegal helped me write, which probably made it look more official. The key is demonstrating that this isn't just a banking error you're hoping they'll fix out of goodwill, but a legal matter where you're prepared to use the court system if necessary. Most banks will work with you once they realize you're not going away and understand your legal rights. You shouldn't need an attorney for this - small claims court is designed for people to represent themselves, and the filing fees are usually under $100.

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One option nobody mentioned yet - you could use a Print-on-Demand platform that handles tax for you. I use Printful through their Etsy integration, and Etsy collects and remits all the sales tax automatically. I just deal with my income taxes in France, and it's much simpler. The downside is you'll make less profit per item since these platforms take a cut, but the time and stress saved on tax compliance might be worth it when you're starting out.

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Kaitlyn Otto

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As someone who went through this exact process last year, I'd highly recommend starting with the basics first. Before diving into tools or services, make sure you understand the fundamental difference between income tax (federal) and sales tax (state-level). For income tax, you'll likely need an ITIN (Individual Taxpayer Identification Number) from the IRS since you're not a US citizen. This lets you file the proper forms like 1040-NR for nonresident aliens. The process takes a few months, so start early. For sales tax, track your sales by state from day one. Most states have economic nexus thresholds around $100K in sales OR 200+ transactions per year. Keep detailed records because once you hit these thresholds, you'll need to register for sales tax permits in those states. Also consider getting a US bank account through services like Wise or Mercury - it makes payments from US customers much smoother and can help with your business legitimacy when dealing with suppliers.

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This is really helpful advice! I'm just starting to research this whole process and the ITIN requirement is something I hadn't heard about yet. A few months processing time sounds like a lot - do you know if there's any way to speed that up, or should I just plan to wait before I can properly file US taxes? Also, when you mention getting a US bank account through Wise or Mercury, did you need the ITIN first, or can you set those up with just your European documentation?

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Millie Long

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For those with PTPs, remember that these Schedule K-3 requirements are still relatively new and even many tax professionals are confused by them. My approach has been to look at the prior year K-3 (if available) to gauge whether there's likely to be any significant foreign information. If last year's K-3 had minimal or zero foreign information AND your current K-1 has an empty Box 21, that's usually a good indication you can proceed without waiting. Just set a reminder to review the K-3 when it eventually arrives to confirm your decision was correct.

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KaiEsmeralda

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Good point about checking last year's forms! In my case last year the K-3 ended up having a tiny amount of foreign income (like $12) from some obscure international investment the PTP made. Would you still file without waiting in that case?

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Millie Long

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Even with a small amount of foreign income like $12 from the previous year, I would still feel comfortable filing without waiting if Box 21 is empty on the current K-1. The impact of such a small amount on your tax liability would be minimal. Keep in mind that if the foreign income is very small, the foreign tax credit might be so minimal that it wouldn't affect your tax situation meaningfully. Many tax professionals apply a materiality threshold - if the potential adjustment would be under $100 in tax impact, proceeding without waiting is reasonable. Just be sure to review the K-3 when it arrives and determine if an amendment is necessary, which it likely wouldn't be for such small amounts.

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Xan Dae

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This is a great discussion and really helpful for those of us dealing with PTP K-1/K-3 complications! I'm in a similar situation with two different partnerships - one clearly states no foreign assets like yours, but the other is less clear in their language. One thing I've learned from my CPA is to also check if your partnership issues a Form 8865 (for foreign partnerships) or has any mention of PFIC investments in their annual reports. If there's no mention of these and Box 21 is empty, it's another good indicator that waiting for the K-3 won't provide actionable information. I've decided to follow your approach this year - filing without waiting for the delayed K-3s from partnerships that clearly indicate no foreign tax activity. The stress of extensions just isn't worth it when all indicators point to the K-3 being irrelevant for our tax situations.

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Alice Fleming

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Thanks for bringing up the Form 8865 and PFIC angle - that's something I hadn't considered checking! I'm still pretty new to dealing with partnership investments, so this kind of insight is really valuable. Just to make sure I understand correctly: if there's no Form 8865 mention and no PFIC references in the annual reports, plus the empty Box 21, that's basically a triple confirmation that the K-3 won't have anything meaningful for our returns? I'm feeling more confident about not waiting for the delayed K-3 now. The extension stress last year was definitely not worth it, especially when the K-3 ended up being completely blank anyway. Appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here!

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