
IRS
CommunityGovernment Services


Ask the community...
Anyone familiar with how Refund Advantage/Pathward processes tax refund advances? I'm a bit confused about the timing...isn't it strange that they say they received it on the 22nd when that date hasn't even arrived yet? My direct deposit is scheduled for the 22nd, but when exactly do they typically transfer the loan amount to my account? This is my first time getting a tax refund advance loan, though I've been using Chime for the past two years. Previously, I would receive my regular refund the day after the holiday, but this advance loan process seems different? Has anyone else gone through this with Chime specifically?
I've been wondering about getting some money back on my property taxes that I paid last year. From what I understand, there's supposed to be a way to deduct personal property taxes on your federal return, but I'm not sure what to expect in terms of an actual refund. Like what's a reasonable percentage I should anticipate getting back? Is it based on my tax bracket or is there some standard rate for property tax refunds? This is the first year I'm a homeowner so I'm trying to figure out what's typical. My county tax bill was around $3,700 and I paid it all on time. Just curious what kind of return I might see when I file my taxes. Anyone have experience with this?
Another thing to consider is challenging your property tax assessment if you think your home is overvalued. I did this last year and got my assessment reduced by almost $40k, which saved me about $800 annually in property taxes. The process varies by county but usually involves showing comparable sales in your area that indicate your home is assessed too high. Many counties have a specific window each year when you can appeal.
Great question about property tax appeals! I handled mine myself and it was actually pretty straightforward. Most counties have forms available online and the process is designed for homeowners to navigate without an attorney. I gathered comparable sales data from Zillow and the county assessor's website, took photos showing any property condition issues, and filled out the appeal form. The hearing was informal - just me presenting my case to a review board. The key was having solid comparable properties that sold recently for less than my assessed value. I'd recommend trying it yourself first since there's usually no fee to file an appeal. You can always hire a property tax consultant later if you're not comfortable with the process. Many of them work on contingency anyway, so they only get paid if they successfully reduce your assessment.
I'm really frustrated and hoping someone can help me figure out this ITIN mess. I originally set up a Chase bank account during a work trip to the US about 12 years ago. When I moved back to my home country, I completely forgot about it until I received notification that the account was closed in 2019 due to inactivity. The funds (around $26,500) were sent to the State Treasurer's Unclaimed Property office. I've been trying to get my money back, but they're insisting I need an ITIN before they'll release anything to me. I'm not filing US taxes - I just need this number to get MY OWN MONEY back! I've applied for an ITIN twice now and been rejected both times. The first time I selected Exception 1(d) for "Monetary Assets" but was denied because they said my documentation wasn't sufficient. The second time I tried Exception 1(a) thinking it might work better, but was rejected again. Does anyone know which exception category I should be using for unclaimed property retrieval? And what supporting documents do I need to provide? This is driving me crazy, and I feel like I'm just guessing at this point. The Unclaimed Property office isn't helping much either - they just keep telling me I need the ITIN.
Something important that nobody has mentioned yet - make sure you're using the CURRENT W-7 form! The IRS updated the form in September 2021, and they will automatically reject applications using the old version. Also, when you're listing your reason for applying, check box "h" for "Other" and then write in "Exception 1(d) - Monetary Assets: Unclaimed Property" in the space provided. This makes it crystal clear from the start what you're applying for. In my case, I also included a cover letter explaining my situation in simple terms at the front of my application package. The cover letter referenced all the attached documents and how they supported my application under Exception 1(d). My approval came through in just 6 weeks.
Thanks for this important tip! I just checked and I think I was using an older version of the W-7 form. Where can I find the most current version? Is it available on the IRS website? The cover letter is a smart idea too. Did you include anything specific in yours that you think helped with the approval process?
You can find the current W-7 form on the IRS website: https://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/fw7.pdf - always download it directly from there to ensure you have the latest version. The current one says "Rev. September 2021" in the top right corner. For the cover letter, I kept it simple and professional - just one page that clearly stated: 1) I'm applying for an ITIN under Exception 1(d) for monetary assets, 2) I need the ITIN solely to claim property held by [state] treasurer's office, 3) A list of all documents enclosed, and 4) Contact information if they needed anything else. I think being super clear about the exception category and purpose helped prevent my application from going into the wrong processing queue. Good luck!
This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation where I have unclaimed property from an old Wells Fargo account that was closed due to inactivity. The state is requiring an ITIN before they'll release the funds. Based on all the advice here, I'm planning to: 1. Use Exception 1(d) for monetary assets 2. Download the current W-7 form (Rev. September 2021) from the IRS website 3. Request a specific letter from the state treasurer that explicitly states an ITIN is required for my claim 4. Include a cover letter clearly explaining my situation One question though - for those who were successful, how long did it typically take to get the proper documentation from your state's unclaimed property office? I'm worried they might give me the runaround like they seem to do with a lot of people. Also, should I mention in my request to the state that the letter needs to be worded specifically for IRS ITIN requirements, or is it better to just ask for confirmation that an ITIN is needed without getting too technical?
I recently got married in June and joined my wife's HSA-eligible HDHP on July 1st. Before this, I had my own health insurance for the first half of the year (high deductible but NOT HSA eligible), and I was contributing to my employer's FSA from January through June. I stopped my FSA contributions when I switched plans. My wife has been contributing to her HSA since January. I'm pretty clear on the HSA last month rule - it seems straightforward. We'd like to contribute the full family plan contribution limit for this year since we plan to stay on the family HDHP through the end of next year. But here's where I'm confused... does the last month rule still apply in my situation, or is it negated because I contributed to an FSA for the first half of the year? Do we need to prorate our HSA contribution (6 months individual for her, 6 months family), or can we still utilize the last month rule and contribute the full family amount? Any help would be greatly appreciated. This is our first year managing both an FSA and HSA situation!
Don't overlook the testing period requirements if you do use the last month rule for the portion you're eligible for! I made this mistake. I contributed using the last month rule, then changed jobs and lost my HDHP coverage 8 months into the following year. Had to pay taxes PLUS a 10% penalty on the "accelerated" portion of my contribution. The IRS calls it "failing the testing period" and they definitely enforce it.
Based on your situation, you'll need to use a prorated calculation rather than the full last month rule benefit. Since you contributed to a general-purpose FSA from January through June, you were HSA-ineligible during that period, even though your FSA and HSA coverage didn't overlap. Here's how to calculate your maximum contribution: - Your wife: Individual limit for 6 months (Jan-June) - Both of you combined: Family limit for 6 months (July-December) The calculation would be: (Individual annual limit รท 12 ร 6) + (Family annual limit รท 12 ร 6) For 2024, that's roughly: ($4,150 รท 12 ร 6) + ($8,300 รท 12 ร 6) = $2,075 + $4,150 = $6,225 total You cannot use the last month rule to contribute the full $8,300 family amount because your FSA participation made you ineligible for HSA contributions during those months, regardless of the fact that they didn't overlap. This is a specific IRS limitation that trips up many people in FSA-to-HSA transitions. Make sure to keep documentation of your insurance effective dates and FSA contribution cessation for your records!
I'm planning to purchase a house for my parents who are relocating to be closer to our family. They're in their early to mid 70s and in excellent health right now. I'm trying to figure out the most sensible approach: 1) Parents buy the house outright using equity from their current home (cash purchase). The title would be in their name, and they'd specify in their will that the house passes to us as inheritance when they pass away. 2) My spouse and I purchase the house (we can make a 50% down payment) and handle the mortgage - then rent to my parents who would cover the mortgage payments. My parents could use the proceeds from selling their current home for retirement and paying us the relatively modest mortgage. What would be the most tax-advantageous approach, considering both short and long-term implications? Option #1 seems fine to me, but it might get complicated later if they need to move into an assisted living facility and would require attorney consultation to handle the will properly. Also, it keeps their money tied up in real estate, which might not be ideal if we need funds for their care when they get older. On the upside, my spouse and I would maintain better cash flow. Since we already own one investment property, option #2 could work well because if they eventually need to move to a care facility, we'd already own the home and could easily rent it out or sell it. Plus, my parents would have more liquid assets for retirement/future care. The downside is my spouse and I would have less available cash flow.
Has anyone looked into a life estate for this situation? My family did this - parents kept a life estate (right to live there until death) while we took remainder interest in the property. Gave us security knowing the house would transfer automatically while they maintained control during their lifetime.
Another option worth considering is a qualified personal residence trust (QPRT). My parents used this structure when they moved closer to us - they transferred their home to an irrevocable trust while retaining the right to live there for a specified term (we chose 10 years). The main advantages: it freezes the home's value for gift tax purposes at today's value, removes future appreciation from their estate, and if structured properly, can provide significant estate tax savings. After the term expires, the house passes to us as beneficiaries, but they can continue living there by paying fair market rent (which further reduces their taxable estate). The downside is it's irrevocable - once it's done, they can't change their minds. Also, if they don't survive the full term, the house goes back into their estate for tax purposes. But for parents in good health in their early 70s, the actuarial tables work in your favor. Definitely worth discussing with an estate planning attorney who specializes in these trusts.
Victoria Stark
Based on Pathward's Refund Advance Service Terms (Section 4.3 of their service agreement), "processing notification dates do not guarantee same-day deposit, as final transmission depends on recipient financial institution's processing protocols." I processed over 200 tax returns last year, and approximately 35% of my clients who used Chime with Refund Advantage experienced a 24-hour delay between Pathward's stated processing date and actual deposit. Another 50% saw funds appear within 48 hours, while 15% experienced delays of 3+ business days. The timing appears to be affected by processing volume and the time of day when Pathward initiates the transfer.
0 coins
Yara Khoury
I'm going through this exact same situation right now! Got the same confusing message about them receiving it on a future date. Reading through everyone's experiences here is really reassuring - it sounds like this is just how their system communicates processing vs. deposit dates. I've been refreshing my Chime account way too often today, but based on what Victoria and Hassan shared about their timelines, it seems like I should expect to see the funds within 24-48 hours of their actual processing date. Thanks everyone for sharing your real experiences - this is so much more helpful than the vague official FAQs!
0 coins