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Everyone's giving good advice about claiming a domestic partner, but don't forget to consider the future! When your partner finishes law school and starts working, your tax situation will change dramatically. My wife and I were in the same boat (I supported her through med school), and we actually ended up paying MORE in taxes after marriage because of the marriage penalty when both people have good incomes.

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The marriage penalty isn't nearly as bad as it used to be since the tax law changes. My husband and I both make six figures and we actually get a slight benefit from filing jointly. It really depends on how close your incomes are to each other.

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Nia Thompson

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Just wanted to chime in as someone who works in tax preparation - you're on the right track! Based on your description, your domestic partner would likely qualify as a "qualifying relative" dependent. The key things to document are: 1. Keep receipts for all the expenses you're paying (rent, utilities, groceries, phone, insurance) 2. Get a statement of his total student loan disbursements for the year 3. Track any income he earns from tutoring or other sources Since you mentioned he only makes about $2,500 from tutoring and the loans only cover tuition/books while you handle all living expenses, you should easily meet both the income test (under $5,000) and the support test (you're providing more than 50% of total support). One thing I always tell clients - calculate the actual dollar amounts to be sure. Add up everything: tuition, books, rent, food, utilities, transportation, clothing, medical expenses, etc. Then make sure your contributions are more than half of that total. It sounds like they definitely are, but having the numbers documented will give you confidence and protection if questions ever arise. The dependent exemption can be a significant tax benefit, so it's worth claiming if you qualify!

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This is really helpful advice! I'm new to all this tax stuff and wasn't sure what kind of documentation I'd need to keep. Should I be saving receipts from grocery stores and utility bills throughout the year, or is there a simpler way to track all these expenses? Also, when you say "calculate the actual dollar amounts," do you mean I need to estimate things like the fair market value of housing I'm providing, or just track what I'm actually paying out of pocket?

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Quick tip that helped me - if you can pay even part of what you owe immediately, do it! Even paying $500-1000 of your balance shows good faith and might make them more willing to work with you on the rest. I was able to get on an installment plan for the remaining balance and they held off on filing the lien.

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Caleb Stone

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Does paying part of it stop the interest from adding up so fast? I've heard horror stories about tax debts doubling because of interest and penalties.

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Yes, paying part of your balance absolutely helps reduce the interest since interest is calculated on the remaining balance. So if you can pay even a portion upfront, you'll save money in the long run. The penalties are also based on the outstanding amount, so reducing your principal balance helps with both interest and penalties. While it won't stop them completely, it definitely slows down how quickly they accumulate. Every dollar you pay now saves you money in future interest charges.

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Don't let this overwhelm you - a Notice of Federal Tax Lien sounds scarier than it actually is in practice! I went through something very similar about 18 months ago when I owed around $4,200 to the IRS after some freelance work complications. The key thing to remember is that the IRS actually WANTS to work with you - they'd rather get their money through a payment plan than go through the hassle of seizing assets. When I called them (after many attempts to get through), the agent was surprisingly understanding and helped me set up a $130/month payment plan. Here's what I wish I'd known earlier: once you're on an approved installment agreement, they typically won't file the lien as long as you keep making your payments on time. Even if they do file it, you can request a lien withdrawal after making just 3 consecutive payments under your agreement. My biggest mistake was waiting so long to contact them. The penalties and interest kept piling up while I was avoiding the situation. Act now - call them first thing Monday morning, explain your job loss situation, and they'll likely be very willing to work with you on affordable monthly payments. You've got this!

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Yara Khalil

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Something similar happened to me and it turned out I had checked the wrong box on step 2 of the W4. I had checked 2(b) which is the "use the multiple jobs worksheet" option instead of 2(c) "if there is only one job total". This made the system think I needed to withhold at a higher rate to cover multiple jobs. Rookie mistake but easy to fix!

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Keisha Brown

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Which tax software do you recommend for figuring this stuff out? I've been using TurboTax but it doesn't really help with W4 planning during the year.

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Chloe Taylor

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The W4 form definitely takes some getting used to after the old allowances system! Based on your situation, I'd suggest double-checking a few key areas: 1. **Step 1**: Make sure you selected "Married filing jointly" not "Single or Married filing separately" 2. **Step 2(c)**: Since your spouse doesn't work, you should check the box that says "If there is only one job total" 3. **Step 3**: Enter $2,000 for your child (qualifying children under 17 get the full Child Tax Credit) Missing any of these could easily cause the overwithholding you're experiencing. The good news is you can submit a corrected W4 to your payroll department anytime - it usually takes effect within 1-2 pay periods. For future reference, the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator tool on their website is really helpful for getting your withholding dialed in perfectly. It walks you through your exact situation and tells you exactly what to put on each line of the W4. Don't worry about the money already over-withheld - you'll get it back as a refund when you file your taxes!

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Ali Anderson

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This is such great advice! I'm a newcomer here but dealing with a similar situation after starting my first "real" job out of college. The W4 form is honestly so confusing compared to what I expected. Quick question - when you submit a corrected W4, do you need to give any explanation to HR about why you're changing it, or do they just process it without questions? I'm a bit embarrassed that I messed it up initially and don't want to seem incompetent to my new employer. Also, is there a way to estimate how much extra I might get per paycheck once the correction takes effect? I'm trying to budget better and it would be helpful to know roughly what to expect.

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GalacticGuru

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I've heard that the EITC is different for each tax year because of inflation adjustments. Does anyone know what the threshold was for 2021? I'm trying to figure out if I should amend my return.

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For 2021, the threshold for singles with no kids was usually $15,980, but there were special expanded rules because of COVID relief. The age range was 19-64 (instead of the usual 25-64) and I think the max income was around $21,430 for singles with no qualifying children. It was a one-time expansion just for 2021.

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GalacticGuru

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Thanks for the info! I might have qualified under those expanded rules. Definitely going to look into amending my 2021 return now.

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Just wanted to add some context about why you might be behind on your taxes - the IRS has been dealing with massive processing delays, especially for amended returns. Your February 2022 amended return not getting processed until December 2022 is unfortunately pretty typical of what many people experienced during that period. For your current situation, as others have mentioned, you're just over the 2022 EITC threshold. But definitely keep those expanded 2021 rules in mind that @Freya Pedersen mentioned - if you were between 19-24 in 2021, you might have qualified under the special COVID provisions even if you didn't think you were eligible at the time. The income limits were much higher that year, so it's worth double-checking your 2021 situation. Also, make sure you're calculating your AGI correctly. Your AGI should generally be close to your earned income if you're just filing a basic return with W-2 income. If there's a big difference between your W-2 wages ($13,100) and your calculated AGI ($16,800), you might want to double-check that calculation or see if there are other income sources you forgot about.

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Just to add some practical advice - whether or not you form an LLC, definitely keep track of ALL your business expenses for your photography work. Gear, software, travel to shoots, portion of home used exclusively for business, etc. These are deductible regardless of how you're classified. If you are properly an independent contractor (which doesn't sound like the case here), you'd report these on Schedule C. If you're an employee, some expenses might be eligible as unreimbursed employee business expenses, though the tax benefits are more limited since the 2017 tax law changes. But the classification issue is the bigger concern. If you're being treated like an employee, you should be classified as one, LLC or not.

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Thanks for the expense tracking advice! I've been pretty bad about keeping receipts for my photography gear purchases. Will employee classification affect how I can deduct my camera equipment? I spent about $3200 on a new camera body last year.

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As an independent contractor, you could deduct the full cost of that $3200 camera on your Schedule C, either all at once using Section 179 expensing (if you qualify) or through depreciation over several years. This would directly reduce your self-employment income and the associated taxes. As an employee, unfortunately, the 2017 Tax Cuts and Jobs Act suspended the deduction for unreimbursed employee business expenses through 2025. This means you generally can't deduct that camera purchase on your taxes if you're classified as an employee unless your employer reimburses you through an accountable plan. This is actually one of the few tax advantages of being an independent contractor, though it rarely outweighs the higher self-employment taxes and loss of benefits that come with employee status.

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Jayden Reed

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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - if you do decide to form an LLC (for your legitimate freelance photography, separate from your employment situation), consider talking to an insurance agent about professional liability insurance. An LLC provides some protection, but having insurance is even better protection against potential lawsuits from unsatisfied clients. I learned this the hard way when a wedding client sued me after claiming I missed important moments. My LLC helped, but having insurance would have saved me thousands in legal fees even though I eventually won the case.

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Nora Brooks

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What kind of insurance would cover photography work specifically? Is it expensive? I've been doing weddings and portraits for 3 years with no business structure at all and now I'm worried...

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Emma Wilson

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Professional liability insurance for photographers typically covers errors and omissions, copyright infringement claims, and failure to deliver services as promised. General liability covers accidents at shoots (like if someone trips over your equipment). You can get both bundled - I pay about $400/year for $1M coverage through companies like Hill & Usher or TCP (The Coverage Professionals). Some even cover equipment theft/damage. Definitely worth it for wedding work especially - one lawsuit could cost way more than years of premiums!

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