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Something similar happened to me and I was going CRAZY trying to figure out what was wrong with my return. Spent hours researching transcript codes and still couldn't understand why it was delayed. I used taxr.ai and it translated all the IRS gibberish instantly! Showed me exactly why my refund was delayed (had a random review code) and when to expect it. Saved me so much stress - definitely recommend checking it out at https://taxr.ai if you're stuck in limbo like I was.
Just tried it - wow! Had no idea my return had been pulled for income verification. This explained everything the IRS wouldn't tell me!
I'm in a really similar situation! Filed with TurboTax on March 10th, accepted March 11th, and still showing "being processed" on WMR. My transcripts are also showing N/A for 2023. This is so frustrating because I really need that refund for some upcoming bills. It's reassuring to see I'm not the only one dealing with this - the IRS processing times seem all over the place this year. Thanks for posting about this, it helps to know others are in the same boat!
As someone who recently went through this exact same confusion, I can confirm what others have said - those paired 766/846 codes are completely normal! I had the same pattern on my transcript with multiple entries throughout the year. In my case, it turned out to be a combination of the Advanced Child Tax Credit payments (which would explain your $310 amounts if you have children) and one adjustment from a processing correction the IRS made to my return. Here's what I'd recommend: First, check your bank statements from last year and look for deposits that match the dates and amounts of your 846 codes. They might show up as "IRS TREAS", "CHILDCTC", or similar labels. Second, count how many 766/846 pairs you have - if it's around 6 pairs, they're likely the monthly child tax credit payments from July through December. The good news is that these codes indicate your account is processing normally. The 766 applies the credit, and the 846 sends you the money since you don't owe additional taxes. If anything seems off after checking your bank records, you can always call the IRS for clarification, but this pattern is very typical for people who received advance child tax credit payments.
This is exactly what I needed to hear! I've been stressing about my transcript for weeks thinking something was wrong with my account. Your suggestion to check bank statements for those specific deposit labels is spot on - I just looked and found all the "CHILDCTC" deposits that match my 846 codes perfectly. I have 6 pairs total, which lines up with what you said about the July through December payments. It's such a relief to know this is normal processing and not some kind of error or problem. I was about to spend hours trying to call the IRS, but now I feel confident everything is correct. Thanks for taking the time to share your experience - it really helped put my mind at ease!
I completely understand your confusion - tax transcripts can be really intimidating when you're not familiar with the codes! The multiple 766/846 pairs you're seeing are actually a very common and normal pattern. Based on your description of 8 paired entries with $310 amounts throughout the year, these are almost certainly Advanced Child Tax Credit payments. The IRS issued these monthly from July through December in recent years, which would explain the repeated pattern you're seeing. Here's how it works: The 766 code shows a credit being applied to your account (the negative amount is normal - it's reducing your tax liability), and the 846 code shows that same amount being refunded to you as a direct deposit. Since you likely didn't owe taxes, these credits were sent directly to your bank account. To verify this, check your bank statements from last year for deposits labeled "CHILDCTC," "IRS TREAS," or similar. The dates and amounts should match up perfectly with your 846 codes. If you received advance child tax credit payments, everything on your transcript is processing exactly as it should be. The fact that you're seeing this consistent pattern actually indicates your account is in good standing and processing normally. No need to worry!
This is such a clear and reassuring explanation! I was getting really anxious about all these repeated codes on my transcript, but your breakdown makes it so much easier to understand. I just checked my bank account and found exactly what you described - multiple "CHILDCTC" deposits that match the amounts and dates on my transcript perfectly. It's amazing how something that looked so confusing and potentially problematic is actually just the normal way the IRS processes these credits. I really appreciate you taking the time to explain this in such simple terms. Now I can stop worrying and actually understand what my transcript is telling me!
I went through this exact situation last year and ended up speaking with a tax professional at H&R Block about it. Here's what they told me: You absolutely need to address the 1099-K on your return, but you don't need to itemize every single item if you have reasonable documentation showing most were personal items sold at a loss. What worked for me was creating a simple summary with broad categories: - Electronics: ~15 items, original cost ~$800, sold for ~$300 - Clothing/accessories: ~20 items, original cost ~$600, sold for ~$200 - Collectibles: ~10 items, original cost ~$400, sold for ~$150 Then I noted the few items where I actually made a profit and reported those gains separately. The key is showing the IRS that you're not trying to hide income - you're demonstrating that most of your sales were personal property sold at a loss (which isn't taxable income). H&R Block's software has a specific workflow for this under the "Other Income" section where you can reconcile your 1099-K. Don't stress too much about perfect documentation for every $15 t-shirt - reasonable estimates based on what you remember paying are usually sufficient for personal items.
This is really helpful! I'm in almost the exact same situation and was panicking about having to track down receipts from years ago for random stuff I sold. Your category approach makes so much sense - I can definitely estimate what I originally paid for broad groups of items rather than trying to remember every single purchase. Quick question though - when you say you reported the gains separately for items you profited on, did you have to treat those as regular income or capital gains? And do you remember roughly how long the H&R Block process took once you had your summary ready?
@Alexis Renard For personal items that you profited on, those are typically treated as ordinary income, not capital gains since (they weren t'held as investments .)The H&R Block software walked me through this - it was actually pretty straightforward once I had my summary prepared. The whole process took me maybe 30-45 minutes once I had my categories and estimates ready. The longest part was honestly just creating that initial summary spreadsheet, but even that only took about an hour since I didn t'need to be super precise with every item. One tip: if you sold any items for significantly more than you paid like (a collectible that appreciated ,)you might want to double-check whether those should be treated differently. But for most regular personal items sold at small profits, it s'just regular income on your 1040. The peace of mind was totally worth the effort - much better than ignoring the 1099-K and potentially getting a letter from the IRS later!
Just went through this exact situation with my 2023 return! I had over 60 items sold on eBay and was completely overwhelmed at first. Here's what I learned: You definitely need to report the 1099-K amount on your return, but the good news is you don't need to itemize every single $20 item. I created a simple spreadsheet grouping similar items together - like "vintage electronics (8 items): original cost ~$400, sold for ~$180" and "clothing/accessories (25 items): original cost ~$650, sold for ~$320." The key insight my tax preparer shared was that the IRS mainly wants to see you're not hiding income. Since most of your items were sold at a loss (like mine), you're actually showing there's NO taxable income from those sales - just documenting it properly. For the few items where you made a profit, you'll report those gains as ordinary income. Keep it simple but reasonable - the IRS isn't expecting you to have receipts for every garage sale find from 5 years ago. I used TaxAct and they had a specific 1099-K reconciliation section that made this pretty painless once I had my summary ready. H&R Block should have something similar. The whole process took maybe an hour once I stopped overthinking it!
This is exactly the kind of practical advice I was hoping to find! I've been stressing about this for weeks thinking I'd need to recreate every single transaction. Your grouping approach makes so much sense - I can definitely estimate what I originally paid for categories like "old video games," "unused kitchen gadgets," etc. Quick follow-up question: when you say you used the 1099-K reconciliation section in TaxAct, did it automatically calculate that there was no taxable income once you showed the items were sold at a loss? I'm wondering if H&R Block's system works similarly where it basically zeroes out the 1099-K amount when you demonstrate higher original costs. Also really appreciate you mentioning it only took about an hour once you stopped overthinking - I've been procrastinating on this for way too long because it seemed impossible!
Worth noting that if you ever convert a personal residence to a rental property, the depreciation basis is the LOWER of your adjusted basis or the fair market value at the time of conversion. Made this mistake my first year and had to file an amended return. Also remember depreciation is mandatory even if you don't claim it - the IRS will treat you as if you took it when you sell the property (called "depreciation recapture").
This! So many people miss this and get surprised when they sell. The IRS will tax you on depreciation you were "supposed" to take even if you didn't take it. I learned this the hard way and got hit with a huge tax bill when I sold my rental last year.
Great question! As others have mentioned, since this is your first year with the rental property, you won't have any depreciation carryovers to enter - you can leave that section blank or enter zero. One thing I'd add that might be helpful for your situation: make sure you're aware that you can only depreciate the portion of time the property was actually available for rent. Since you bought in April and presumably needed some time to get it rental-ready, you'll want to prorate your first-year depreciation accordingly. Also, keep really good records from day one! Track all your rental income, expenses (repairs, maintenance, insurance, property management fees if any), and any improvements you make. The component depreciation mentioned by Aaron is definitely worth considering - if your duplex came with appliances, you can depreciate those over 5 years instead of 27.5. One last tip: consider setting up a separate bank account just for rental income and expenses. It makes tax time so much easier when everything is clearly separated from your personal finances. Good luck with your first year as a landlord!
Thanks Diego! The separate bank account tip is brilliant - I wish I had thought of that from the beginning. I've been mixing everything in my personal account and it's been a nightmare trying to separate rental transactions. Quick question about the proration you mentioned - I bought the property in April but didn't get my first tenant until June. Do I prorate based on when I bought it or when it was actually generating rental income? I spent May doing some minor repairs and getting it ready for tenants.
Connor Murphy
Quick question - has anyone used TurboTax to file with an EIDL grant? Is there a specific place where you enter this or do you just not include it as income? Don't want to mess this up!
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Yara Haddad
ā¢I used TurboTax last year with an EIDL grant. For federal, I didn't include the grant as income since it's not federally taxable. But I did document it in the "Additional Information" section just to have it on record. For state taxes (I'm in NY), I had to manually add it as "Other Income" following NY state guidance. TurboTax didn't prompt me specifically about EIDL grants - had to know to do this myself.
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Sean Murphy
Great question! As others have mentioned, the EIDL grant portion is generally not taxable at the federal level under Section 139 of the Internal Revenue Code. However, I want to emphasize something that's been touched on but is really important - make sure you keep detailed records of exactly how you used those grant funds. Even though the grant isn't taxable income, the IRS still wants to see proper documentation if you're ever audited. I'd recommend creating a simple spreadsheet showing the grant amount, the date received, and specifically what business expenses you paid with those funds (rent, utilities, payroll, etc.). Also, since you mentioned you're between accountants, when you do find a new one, make sure they're familiar with EIDL grant treatment. Some preparers who don't deal with small business clients regularly might not be up to speed on the current rules. Good luck with your filing!
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Eva St. Cyr
ā¢This is excellent advice about documentation! I'm dealing with a similar situation and hadn't thought about creating a detailed spreadsheet. One thing I'm wondering about - if you used the EIDL grant funds for multiple different expense categories, do you need to break down the percentage allocation for each category, or is it enough to just list all the expenses that totaled up to the grant amount? Also, did anyone have issues with their new accountant not being familiar with these rules? I'm interviewing a few CPAs and want to make sure I ask the right questions upfront.
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