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Given that you have verified your identity with the and they indicated a timeframe of 1-3 weeks for updates, here's a summary and what you should expect next: Summary of Current Transcript Codes Code 150 (Tax return filed): Indicates your return has been processed. Code 276 (Penalty for late payment of tax): A penalty has been assessed for late payment. Code 196 (Interest charged for late payment): Interest has been charged on the late payment. Code 971 (Notice issued): A notice has been sent to you explaining the penalties, interest, or other matters related to your return. What to Expect Next Notice Explanation: Within the next few weeks, you should receive a notice from the (referenced by Code 971). This notice will provide detailed information about the penalties and interest that have been applied to your account. Update on WMR: The "Where's My Refund" () tool may not reflect immediate updates due to processing lags. However, after 1-3 weeks post-verification, you should start seeing changes or updates on your refund status. Receipt of Refund: If everything is in order and there are no further issues, your refund (if applicable after penalties and interest) should be processed and sent to you. Given that you already saw a "Refund issued" code (846) in your previous transcript, it indicates that your refund was calculated and should be on its way. Recommendations Check for Notices: Keep an eye on your mail for any correspondence from the IRS. The notice will provide important information about any actions you need to take. Monitor Tool: Continue to check the tool for updates on your refund status. Contact if Needed: If you do not receive any updates or the notice within the 1-3 week period, consider reaching out to the again for clarification. Prepare Documentation: Ensure you have all necessary documentation and records related to your tax return and the verification process in case further action or clarification is needed. Also, based on the new image you provided, here are the explanations for the codes and transactions on your transcript: Code 150 (Tax return filed): Explanation: This indicates that the has received and processed your tax return. Cycle: 20242105 (processing cycle number). Date: 06-10-2024. Amount: $35,886.00 (this is the total amount of tax liability reported on your return). Code 276 (Penalty for late payment of tax): Explanation: This indicates that a penalty has been assessed for the late payment of taxes. Cycle: 20242105. Date: 06-10-2024. Amount: $358.86 (this is the penalty amount for the late payment). Code 196 (Interest charged for late payment): Explanation: This indicates that interest has been charged on the late payment of taxes. Cycle: 20242105. Date: 06-10-2024. Amount: $441.91 (this is the amount of interest charged for the late payment). Code 971 (Notice issued): Explanation: This indicates that the has issued a notice to you. The notice will provide details about the penalty, interest, or other matters related to your tax return. Date: 06-10-2024. Amount: $0.00 (this code does not represent a financial transaction but indicates that a notice has been sent). Summary Code 150 confirms that your tax return has been processed with a reported tax liability of $35,886.00. Code 276 and Code 196 indicate that penalties and interest have been assessed for late payment of taxes. These amounts add to your total liability. Code 971 signifies that a notice has been issued to you, which will explain the penalties and interest in more detail.
I see. If those were the only codes, then hit me up here when you get the notice. Happy to help. BTW you should look for code 846 "Refund Issued". Since I don't see that, it's likely everything is being held up by the 971 code, which will be explained in a letter the will send you.
Travis, I think everyone here has made excellent points about that $189,617 figure - that's definitely not a typical refund amount! I wanted to add one more thing that might help: If you're having trouble finding Line 35 on your Form 1040, you can also check the "Where's My Refund" tool on the website at irs.gov. When you originally checked your refund status there, it should have shown you the expected refund amount. Also, since you mentioned you verified your identity and they said 1-3 weeks, the timing makes sense with what we're seeing. The Code 971 (Notice Issued) means they're sending you a letter explaining the penalty and interest charges. Once you receive and respond to that notice (if needed), you should see Code 846 (Refund Issued) appear on your transcript. The bottom line is: whatever your actual refund amount is, you'll have $800.77 deducted from it ($358.86 penalty + $441.91 interest). If your refund is larger than that amount, you'll still get money back. If it's smaller, you might end up owing additional money. Could you double-check that refund amount and let us know? We're all here to help once we get that clarified!
Travis, I'm new here but I have to echo what everyone else is saying - that $189,617 figure is definitely raising red flags! That's an extremely high refund amount that would be very unusual for most individual tax returns. I think you might be looking at one of these instead of your actual refund: - Your total annual income/wages - Total federal taxes withheld from your paychecks all year - Your Adjusted Gross Income (AGI) - Some other figure on your transcript or tax documents Here's the simplest way to find your real refund amount: 1. **Look at your Form 1040, Line 35** - this shows your actual refund 2. **Check your tax software confirmation** if you filed online 3. **Use the "Where's My Refund" tool** at irs.gov Once we know your actual refund amount from Line 35, we can easily tell you what to expect. You'll have $800.77 deducted from your refund ($358.86 penalty + $441.91 interest), and the rest would be yours to keep. The Code 971 on your transcript means the is mailing you a notice explaining these charges. After you get that notice and everything is resolved, you should see Code 846 (Refund Issued) appear. Could you check Line 35 on your Form 1040 and share that actual refund amount? That'll clear everything up!
As someone who's filed dual status returns for 3 years now, my biggest advice is to make sure you keep track of your "residency starting date" documentation. The date you became a US resident for tax purposes might not be the exact date you physically arrived in the US. For example, if you pass the substantial presence test later in the year, that becomes important. I recommend keeping copies of your I-94, visa approval, first US paycheck, utility bills, lease, etc., in case you ever get questioned about your residency start date.
Great point about documentation! I learned this the hard way when the IRS questioned my residency start date during an audit. They wanted to see proof of when I actually established US tax residency versus when I first entered the country. One thing to add - if you're on an H-1B or similar work visa like Connor, your residency start date is typically the later of: (1) your first day of US employment, or (2) when you meet the substantial presence test. Since Connor started working in May 2024, that's likely his residency start date, making January-April his nonresident period and May-December his resident period. Also, don't forget about Form 8843 if you were a student or had any exempt days during your nonresident period. And if you have any foreign bank accounts with more than $10,000 total at any point during the year, you'll need to file FBAR (FinCEN Form 114) regardless of your dual status situation. The filing requirements for foreign accounts apply to US tax residents, so once you became a resident in May, all your worldwide accounts became reportable.
This is incredibly helpful information! I had no idea about the FBAR requirement - I do have bank accounts in Canada that definitely exceeded $10,000 during the year. When you say "once you became a resident in May, all your worldwide accounts became reportable" - does that mean I need to report the highest balance my Canadian accounts reached at ANY point during 2024, even if some of that was before I became a US resident? And is there a penalty for not knowing about this requirement? I'm starting to realize there are way more forms and requirements than I initially thought!
I work for a tax preparation service and see this issue frequently with VA state refunds, especially during peak filing season. What many people don't realize is that Virginia uses a third-party vendor for printing and mailing refund checks, which can add additional delays beyond the "issued" date shown in their system. The 6+ week timeline you're experiencing is unfortunately becoming more common this year - we've had at least a dozen clients report similar delays. Here's what I recommend: 1) Call VA Tax at 804-367-8031 first thing Monday morning (they're less busy early in the week), 2) Have your SSN and exact refund amount ready, 3) Ask specifically about "delivery confirmation" status, not just issuance status, and 4) Request they initiate both a payment trace AND a stop payment on the original check simultaneously. Don't let them tell you to wait longer - 6+ weeks is well beyond reasonable delivery timeframes. Also, consider requesting the replacement be sent via certified mail for an additional $3.50 fee - it's worth it for the tracking and security.
This is really helpful information, especially about the third-party vendor for printing and mailing! I had no idea that could cause additional delays beyond what shows in VA's system. As someone new to Virginia taxes (just moved here last year), I was expecting the same timeline I experienced with other states. The tip about calling early Monday morning is great - I've been trying to call mid-week when they're probably swamped. I'm definitely going to ask about that certified mail option for the replacement check. An extra $3.50 is nothing compared to the stress of wondering if a second check will also disappear into the mail system. Thanks for the professional insight!
I had the exact same issue with my VA state refund last year! Check was "issued" on February 3rd, and I didn't receive it until April 8th - that's over 9 weeks. Turns out it was a combination of issues: the original check got lost in the mail (likely stolen from my apartment complex's mailbox area), and then VA's replacement process took forever because they had to verify the original wasn't cashed. What finally worked for me was being persistent with their phone line and documenting everything. I called every few days after the 6-week mark and kept detailed notes of who I spoke with and what they told me. Eventually got connected with a supervisor who expedited the replacement check process. One thing that might help - if you have any neighbors who received VA refunds around the same timeframe, ask them about their experience. In my case, two other people in my building also had VA checks go missing around the same time, which helped establish a pattern of mail theft that made VA more willing to fast-track the replacement. Don't give up! It's frustrating but you will eventually get your money. The squeaky wheel gets the grease with these situations.
@Omar Fawaz This is exactly the kind of systematic approach I needed to hear about! The documentation tip is brilliant - I ve'been calling sporadically but not keeping detailed records of what each representative told me. Your experience with the neighbor situation is really eye-opening too. I m'going to check with people in my building to see if anyone else has had similar issues with mail delivery lately. The 9-week timeline you experienced is honestly terrifying, but knowing that persistence and escalation to a supervisor eventually worked gives me hope. Thanks for sharing the detailed breakdown of what actually worked - this is way more actionable advice than just call "and wait.
One thing nobody mentioned - if you use tax software like TurboTax or H&R Block, they usually have an option to prepare an amended return that'll fill out the 1040X for you based on your changes. Much easier than trying to do it manually, especially since the 1040X form is honestly pretty confusing. Just go into your account, look for the option to amend, and it'll let you make the changes and will recalculate everything automatically. Some of them even support e-filing the 1040X now.
I tried doing this with TurboTax last year and it was still super confusing. It kept asking me to enter information I'd already entered in my original return. Do any of these programs make it truly simple?
@Yara Nassar - You've gotten great advice here! Just to add one more tip from my experience: when you file your 1040X, make sure to keep a copy of everything for your records, including the 1099-NEC you're attaching. Also, don't panic about the $3,200 - while you'll owe additional tax on that income, it's not going to be a huge amount. Depending on your tax bracket, you're probably looking at owing somewhere between $300-800 in additional tax plus a small amount of interest since your original filing date. The key thing is you're fixing it proactively, which shows good faith to the IRS. I made a similar mistake a few years back (forgot about some freelance income) and the whole process was much less stressful than I expected once I actually got the 1040X filed.
This is really reassuring to hear from someone who's been through the same situation! I was honestly freaking out thinking I was going to owe thousands in penalties or something. The $300-800 range for additional tax sounds much more manageable than what I was imagining in my head. Quick question - when you filed your amendment, did you also have to pay estimated taxes for the current year since you had unreported self-employment income? I'm wondering if the IRS will expect me to start making quarterly payments now that they know about my side gig income.
Fatima Al-Suwaidi
Just to add some clarity for everyone asking about documentation - the IRS Publication 529 specifically outlines what records you need to keep for gambling losses. For online platforms like Robinhood, your account statements are usually sufficient IF they clearly show the dates, amounts, and nature of each transaction. However, if you were using prediction markets or betting platforms that don't provide detailed tax reporting, you should definitely create a gambling log. Include the date, type of wager, amount bet, amount won/lost, and the platform used. Keep screenshots of your betting history if possible. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet - if your total gambling losses exceed $5,000 in a year, you'll need to file Form 4797 in addition to reporting on Schedule A. This is often overlooked but can cause issues during an audit. Also remember that even if you can't deduct all your gambling losses this year (because they exceed your winnings), you can't carry them forward to future years like you can with capital losses. Gambling losses are use-it-or-lose-it each tax year.
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Paloma Clark
β’This is really helpful clarification, thank you! I had no idea about Form 4797 for losses over $5k. That could definitely apply to my situation. The fact that gambling losses can't be carried forward like capital losses makes this even more frustrating - seems like the tax code really penalizes people who got caught up in election betting. Do you know if there's any difference in how the IRS treats political prediction markets versus traditional sports betting? I'm wondering if they view election betting as having some kind of informational or civic value that might affect the tax treatment.
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Jacob Lewis
β’Great question about political prediction markets vs sports betting! Unfortunately, the IRS doesn't make that distinction - all forms of wagering are treated the same for tax purposes, regardless of whether you're betting on elections, sports, or even academic outcomes. The tax code focuses on the economic substance of the transaction rather than any perceived civic or informational value. What matters more is the platform and structure of your bets. If you're trading on a regulated exchange where you're buying/selling contracts (like some prediction markets), those might be treated as securities transactions. But if you're placing traditional wagers on election outcomes, it's gambling regardless of the subject matter. The IRS has been pretty consistent on this - they've even ruled that betting on the outcome of TV game shows is gambling, so there's no special carve-out for "educational" or politically-relevant betting. The form and function of the transaction is what determines the tax treatment, not the underlying subject matter.
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GalaxyGuardian
One thing I'd add that might be relevant for your Robinhood situation - be very careful about wash sale rules if any of your election bets involved buying and selling the same or substantially identical securities within 30 days. This can actually disallow some of your capital losses temporarily. I made this mistake last year when I panic-sold some defense stocks right before the election, then bought them back a week later thinking I was being smart. The IRS wash sale rule kicked in and I couldn't deduct those losses on my 2024 return - they got added to my cost basis instead. It's a common trap that a lot of people fall into during volatile periods like elections. If you were doing rapid trading on similar securities or ETFs based on election predictions, definitely review your transactions for potential wash sales. Robinhood should flag these on your 1099-B, but it's worth double-checking since it can significantly impact your deductible losses.
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Teresa Boyd
β’This is such an important point about wash sales! I had no idea this could apply to election-related trading. I definitely did some panic buying and selling of similar ETFs during the election period - bought some defense ETFs, sold them when polls looked bad, then bought similar ones a few days later. Do you know if the wash sale rule applies across different but similar ETFs? Like if I sold a broad defense ETF and then bought a more specific aerospace ETF within 30 days, would that trigger the rule? And does Robinhood's 1099-B actually catch all of these situations, or do I need to track them manually? Really appreciate everyone sharing their experiences here - this is way more complicated than I expected when I first placed those bets!
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