I went through identity verification just last week and can share what happened in my case. The agent told me it was specifically for Form 8962 (Premium Tax Credit) verification, and she mentioned my case would be prioritized since it was a "simple authentication" rather than a full identity theft case. My timeline so far: verified on Tuesday, transcript still shows the 570 hold as of yesterday (day 6). The agent said to expect 2-3 weeks, but based on what others are saying here, it sounds like it could be sooner. One thing that might help - when you call back to check status, ask them to confirm the specific type of verification you completed. There are apparently different processing queues depending on whether it's identity theft, Premium Tax Credit, Earned Income Credit, or just general authentication. Knowing which queue you're in can give you a better timeline estimate. Good luck with yours! The waiting is definitely the hardest part.

I just went through this exact situation three weeks ago! After completing identity verification, my transcript updated in exactly 12 business days. Here's what I learned from calling multiple times (probably too many times, but anxiety got the better of me): The key thing is that once verification is complete, you're basically in a queue for manual review. The agent who helped me explained that they have to manually release the hold on your account, and it's not automated like regular processing. What helped me track progress was checking my transcript every few days - look for code 971 first (that's when they acknowledge the verification), then watch for the 570 hold to be released. Mine showed the 971 about 8 days after verification, then the hold released 4 days later. The 9-day timeline from last year sounds about right for normal processing volume. This year seems slightly slower but not dramatically - I'd estimate 10-15 business days based on what I've seen in various forums and my own experience. Hang in there! The waiting is brutal but it does eventually move.

Just to add one thing - if your SUV has a gross vehicle weight rating over 6,000 pounds, it might qualify for additional Section 179 deduction if you use actual expenses method. Worth checking the weight specs because it could make a BIG difference in year 1.

Great question! I went through a similar situation last year with my 2018 pickup truck. One thing that really helped me was creating a spreadsheet to compare both methods using my actual numbers. For a $26,000 SUV with 60% business use, the math can go either way depending on your annual mileage and maintenance costs. Since you're using it for the first time in 2025, you're smart to go with standard mileage to preserve your options. The standard mileage rate for 2025 is 67 cents per mile, so if you drive 15,000 business miles, that's $10,050 in deductions right there. One tip: definitely track your actual expenses this year too (gas, maintenance, insurance, etc.) even though you're using standard mileage. That way next year you can compare and see if switching to actual expenses makes sense, especially once your SUV starts needing more maintenance. And yes, you can absolutely deduct the prorated registration fees and sales tax! I deducted about $400 last year doing this. Just multiply your total registration/sales tax by your business use percentage and include it as a separate line item on Schedule C. The key is keeping excellent records either way. I use a simple mileage tracking app and take photos of all vehicle-related receipts. Makes tax time so much easier!

Anyone know if FreeTaxUSA is good with Schedule C for self-employment? I'm a freelancer and TurboTax always upsells me to their expensive "self-employed" version. Wondering if FreeTaxUSA handles this better?

I've been using FreeTaxUSA for three years now and can confirm it's absolutely legitimate - they're an IRS-authorized e-file provider with excellent security. Regarding your state return concern, you're right to check carefully at checkout. FreeTaxUSA's federal filing is free, but state returns typically cost around $14.99 each. Here's what to look for: after completing your federal return, you should see an option to "Add State Return" before finalizing. Make sure both federal AND state show "e-file" status before paying. If your state only shows "print and mail," that means e-filing isn't available for your specific state through their system. I've never had any issues with refund timing compared to when I used more expensive services. The IRS processes returns the same regardless of which software you use to file. You'll save significant money compared to TurboTax while getting the same result!

One more thing to consider - if you trade in the vehicle instead of selling it outright, you may be able to defer the recapture tax. Section 1031 like-kind exchanges no longer apply to personal property like vehicles (changed with 2017 tax law), but there might be other strategies worth exploring with a tax professional.

This is a great discussion! One key point I'd add is about documentation. Since you mentioned this is for your consulting business, make sure you're keeping detailed records of not just mileage but also how the vehicle is being used for business purposes. The IRS can be pretty strict about heavy vehicle Section 179 deductions, especially for vehicles that could be considered "luxury" like the Hummer EV. They want to see that it's genuinely necessary for your business operations, not just chosen because of the tax benefits. Also, consider the timing of any potential sale carefully. If your business income fluctuates year to year, you might want to time the sale for a year when you're in a lower tax bracket, since that recapture income will be taxed at ordinary rates. The recapture hits all at once in the year of sale, so it could potentially push you into a higher bracket that year. Have you considered whether keeping it as a business asset and taking regular depreciation going forward might make more sense than selling? Sometimes the simplest path is the best one tax-wise.

Just a heads up - if you end up filing without the official 1099-B, make sure you check the box on Form 8949 that indicates you're reporting transactions that weren't reported to you on a 1099-B. This lets the IRS know you're being transparent about not having the official form. Also, document EVERYTHING. Download your transaction history from Robinhood NOW, before it potentially disappears from your easy access. Take screenshots of your attempts to contact them. If there's ever an audit question, you want to show you made every effort to get the correct documents.

I work in tax preparation and see this Robinhood issue frequently. Here's what you need to know from a professional perspective: 1. **You MUST report all stock sales regardless of receiving a 1099-B.** The IRS requires you to report capital gains/losses even without the form. 2. **Robinhood's delay might be legitimate.** Complex situations like wash sales, corporate actions, or basis adjustments can delay forms until March 15th. 3. **For immediate action:** Download your complete transaction history from Robinhood (Account → Statements → Activity). This will have all your trades with dates, quantities, and prices. 4. **Calculate manually if needed:** Use FIFO (First In, First Out) method unless you specifically elected otherwise. Your proceeds minus your cost basis equals your gain/loss. 5. **Don't forget dividends:** Even $10+ in dividends must be reported. Check if you received a 1099-DIV or if it's combined with other forms. The key is accurate reporting with proper documentation. I've helped clients through IRS correspondence when brokers were late with forms, and as long as you report everything accurately and keep records, you'll be fine. Consider filing an extension if you're uncomfortable proceeding without the official form.