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I'm confused about something else with these apps...If I sell stuff on Facebook and they pay me through Venmo, isn't that different than just sending money to friends? My brother says I should be keeping track of all that for taxes.
Your brother is right! Selling items on Facebook and getting paid through Venmo is considered income and is different from personal transfers. If you receive more than $600 total for selling items this way in a year, Venmo is supposed to send you a 1099-K form. Even if you don't get a 1099-K, you're still legally required to report the income on your tax return. You can deduct your original cost of the items to reduce the taxable amount - you're only taxed on the profit. Keep good records of what you paid originally and what you sold items for!
One thing that might help clarify this for everyone - the IRS has actually published guidance specifically about payment apps in Publication 525. The key distinction they make is between "personal payments" and "payment for goods and services." Personal payments include: - Splitting a dinner bill - Paying your share of rent to a roommate - Reimbursing someone for concert tickets - Birthday gifts or holiday money - Loan repayments between friends/family These are NOT taxable income to the recipient, regardless of amount or frequency. Business payments include: - Selling items (even personal items for profit) - Freelance work payments - Service payments (babysitting, tutoring, etc.) - Any payment where you're providing goods/services The $600 reporting threshold only applies to business payments. For personal payments, there's no reporting requirement at any amount level. The confusion often comes from people mixing these two categories or not understanding that selling your old stuff online counts as business income if you sell it for more than you paid.
This is super helpful! I've been so confused about this whole thing, but your breakdown makes it crystal clear. I think I was overthinking it because I kept reading conflicting information online. So basically, all those Zelle transfers I mentioned in my original post (splitting rent, paying back for concert tickets, vacation expenses) are just personal payments and I don't need to worry about reporting them at all? That's such a relief! I was starting to panic thinking I'd been doing something wrong tax-wise all this time.
make sure u update ur address on IRS website if u moved recently. They wont forward refund checks!!
Same thing happened to me last year! The waiting is the worst part. Just to add to what others said - you can also call the IRS refund hotline at 1-800-829-1954 to check the status once it's been about 10 business days since the bank rejection. They'll be able to tell you if they've processed it for a paper check yet. Hang in there! š¤
Something nobody's mentioned yet - keep good records of your maximum account balances throughout the year, not just at year-end! I got caught in an audit once because I had just under $10,000 at year-end but had briefly exceeded that amount mid-year when I sold some property abroad. The FBAR threshold applies to the maximum aggregate balance at ANY POINT during the year, not just December 31st. So if your accounts fluctuate, track those balances carefully.
Good point about tracking throughout the year. What's the best way to handle currency conversion for determining if you hit that $10,000 threshold? I've heard different things about using year-end rates versus rates on the specific dates.
For FBAR purposes, you should use the Treasury's published exchange rates for the last day of the calendar year to convert foreign currency amounts to USD. This applies when determining both the maximum value during the year and the year-end value. The IRS provides these rates on their website, and you should use the rate closest to December 31st of the tax year in question. If Treasury rates aren't available for your specific currency, you can use another verifiable exchange rate source, but you need to be consistent and document which source you used. The key is that all your foreign accounts should be converted using the same method and date for consistency.
Just wanted to confirm what others have said - you're definitely in the clear with accounts under $2000! I had a similar situation with freelance income from abroad and was worried I'd missed something important. One thing that helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track my foreign account balances monthly. Even though I knew I was well under the thresholds, it gave me peace of mind and would be useful documentation if I ever needed it. I included the account name, currency, local balance, USD equivalent using year-end exchange rates, and any income generated. The key takeaway from my research and experience: income reporting (which you've done correctly on Schedule C) is completely separate from account reporting requirements. Since you're under both the FBAR $10,000 threshold and the much higher Form 8938 thresholds, you only need to worry about that Schedule B checkbox if you had any interest income from the accounts. Keep doing what you're doing - you've handled this correctly!
That spreadsheet idea is brilliant! I wish I had thought of that earlier. I've been keeping loose track of my balances but having everything organized in one place with the currency conversions would definitely give me more confidence that I'm staying compliant. Do you happen to remember where you found the Treasury exchange rates? I've been using random online converters but having an official source would be much better for documentation purposes.
You can find the Treasury's official exchange rates on the IRS website under "Yearly Average Currency Exchange Rates" - they publish them annually for tax purposes. For FBAR reporting specifically, you'll want to use the rates from the last day of the calendar year rather than the yearly averages. The Federal Reserve also publishes daily exchange rates that are considered official sources. I bookmarked both sites when I was setting up my tracking system. Having that official documentation definitely helps if you ever need to justify your currency conversions to the IRS!
I went through a similar subdivision process in 2022 and there's one aspect that might affect your calculation that hasn't been mentioned yet - improvements you made to the land portion you're selling versus the portion you're keeping. When allocating your basis, don't forget to factor in any land improvements like grading, utilities installation, septic systems, wells, or landscaping that specifically benefit the 1.5-acre parcel you're selling. These costs should be added to that portion's basis rather than split proportionally. For example, if you spent $15,000 on a septic system that serves only the house parcel, that full amount goes toward the basis of the land you're selling. Same with driveway costs, electrical service runs, or any other improvements that specifically enhance the saleable portion. I made the mistake of not tracking these improvements separately and ended up with a higher tax liability than necessary. Keep detailed records of what improvements benefit which portion of the property - it can make a significant difference in your final calculation. Also, consider getting a survey done if you haven't already. The surveyor can often provide valuable documentation about the relative values of different portions of your property that the IRS would find acceptable for allocation purposes.
This is such valuable advice! I hadn't even thought about tracking improvements separately by which portion of the property they benefit. Looking back at my records, I definitely have some costs that should be allocated specifically to the house parcel - like the septic system installation and the electrical service connection from the road. Do you know if there's a specific way the IRS expects these improvements to be documented? I have receipts for most of the work, but I'm wondering if I need to get something more formal like an engineer's assessment of which improvements benefit which parcel. Also, regarding the survey - did you find that having professional documentation of the property boundaries and improvements helped justify your basis allocation during the sale process, or was it more for your own peace of mind?
For documenting improvements, the IRS generally accepts receipts and invoices as long as they clearly show what work was done and where. You don't necessarily need an engineer's assessment unless the allocation gets disputed later. I kept a simple spreadsheet that listed each improvement, the cost, and which parcel it benefited, along with photos showing the work location relative to the property boundaries. The survey was incredibly helpful during the actual sale process - not just for tax purposes, but the title company required it anyway for the subdivision. Having that professional documentation made the whole basis allocation much more defensible. The surveyor's report showed exactly where improvements were located and even included notes about utility easements and access rights that affected the property values. One tip: if you're getting a survey done, ask the surveyor to include notes about major improvements and their relationship to the property boundaries. This creates an independent professional record that carries more weight than just your own documentation.
This is a complex situation that touches on several important tax considerations. Based on your timeline, you should qualify for the Section 121 exclusion since you've lived in the home as your primary residence for 2 years. The subdivision itself doesn't restart this clock - what matters is your continuous ownership and use of the property. For the cost basis allocation, you'll need to split your original $480K land purchase between the portion you're selling (1.5 acres with house) and what you're keeping. The most defensible approach is usually based on relative fair market values at the time of sale, not just acreage percentages, since developed land typically has higher per-acre value. Your total basis for the sold portion would be: (allocated portion of land cost) + $450K construction + any improvements specific to that parcel (septic, driveway, utilities serving the house, etc.). A few practical tips: Document your allocation method thoroughly, consider getting at least informal comparable sales data to support your valuation approach, and make sure your subdivision is completely recorded before closing. Also check with your county assessor about potential property tax impacts on the remaining land. Given the amounts involved and complexity of the allocation, you might want to consult with a tax professional to ensure you're maximizing your exclusion and properly documenting everything for potential IRS review.
This is exactly the kind of comprehensive overview I was hoping for! Your point about using fair market values rather than just acreage percentages makes a lot of sense - the 1.5 acres with the house is definitely worth more per acre than undeveloped land. I'm curious about one aspect you mentioned - when you say "improvements specific to that parcel," would things like landscaping around the house count? I spent about $8,000 on professional landscaping, irrigation, and a retaining wall that are all within what will become the sold parcel boundaries. Also, do you have any recommendations for how to find good comparable sales data for the valuation approach? I'm in a somewhat rural area where land sales aren't as frequent, so I'm not sure how recent the comparables need to be to be considered valid by the IRS. Thanks for the advice about consulting a tax professional - given the complexity and dollar amounts involved, that's probably wise even if it costs a bit upfront.
Yes, landscaping improvements that will stay with the sold parcel should definitely be included in your basis calculation! The $8,000 you spent on landscaping, irrigation, and retaining walls are legitimate improvements that add value to the specific 1.5-acre parcel you're selling. These are exactly the types of improvements that should be allocated to the sold portion rather than split proportionally. For comparable sales data in rural areas, the IRS typically accepts comparables within the past 6-12 months, but they understand that rural properties may require a longer lookback period. You can start by checking your county assessor's website for recent sales, or contact local real estate agents who specialize in land sales in your area. Some states also have online databases of property transfers that you can search by property type and date. Another option is to look at listings (both current and recently sold) on sites like LandWatch or similar platforms that focus on rural/land sales. Even if the comparables aren't perfect matches, having a reasonable methodology and documentation of how you arrived at your allocation will go a long way if questioned. The key is showing you made a good faith effort to determine fair market values using available data, rather than just picking arbitrary percentages.
Saanvi Krishnaswami
Quick question for anyone who's done this: Do you have to file Form 3115 with your regular tax return or is it submitted separately? And does it need to be mailed or can it be e-filed?
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Demi Lagos
ā¢Form 3115 is actually filed in TWO places - you attach the original to your timely filed tax return (including extensions) for the year of change. Then you also have to send a COPY to the IRS national office in Ogden, UT. The copy to the national office must be sent at least 90 days before your tax return is filed. And as far as I know, even if you e-file your return, you still have to mail a physical copy of the 3115 to the Ogden address. It's one of those weird IRS quirks that hasn't caught up with the digital age yet.
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Dmitry Popov
I went through almost the exact same situation last year - depreciation correction from 39-year to 27.5-year schedule on rental property improvements. The $1,200 fee is definitely steep, but honestly it was worth it for me. What really helped was getting multiple quotes. I ended up finding a CPA who specialized in Form 3115 filings and only charged $850. The key is finding someone who does these regularly - they have templates and processes that make it much more efficient than a generalist who might be starting from scratch. One thing to consider: make sure your current CPA is experienced with 3115s specifically. I initially went with my regular tax preparer who quoted $1,400 and admitted she'd only done "a few" of these forms. Ended up switching to someone who does dozens per year and got better service for less money. Also, don't forget that the professional fee is likely deductible as a tax preparation expense. So your actual out-of-pocket cost is reduced by your marginal tax rate. In my case, the $850 fee only cost me about $640 after tax savings. The refund took about 5 months to arrive, but it was exactly what we calculated. Worth the wait and the professional fee!
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Zainab Omar
ā¢This is really helpful advice about shopping around for specialists! I'm curious - how did you find a CPA who specifically specializes in Form 3115s? Did you just call around asking, or is there some directory or way to search for tax professionals by specialty? I'm definitely interested in getting multiple quotes now, especially if I can find someone who does these regularly and might be more efficient (and cheaper) than my current CPA.
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