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Have you considered using tax software like TurboTax Premier or H&R Block Premium? I had a similar issue last year with multiple wash sales from my company's ESPP and RSUs. The software let me import all transactions from my broker and then automatically handled the wash sale calculations. It wasn't perfect - I still had to manually adjust some of the non-covered securities, but it was way easier than doing it all by hand. The software also produced all the required forms with the correct box checked for covered vs. non-covered.
I've used TurboTax Premier in the past, but it struggled with the chaining between covered and non-covered securities. Did you have to manually identify the wash sale chains, or did the software somehow figure that out automatically?
The software wasn't able to automatically identify chains between covered and non-covered securities. I had to manually review the transactions and make adjustments where the wash sales crossed between the two types. What worked for me was first importing everything from my brokerage. Then I reviewed each transaction with a loss to see if there were any purchases within the 30-day window before or after. For those that triggered wash sales between different security types, I manually adjusted the basis. It's definitely not perfect, but it saved me from having to create the forms from scratch. The key is understanding which transactions the software might miss so you can focus your manual review efforts there. In my case, I found it helpful to create a simple timeline of all transactions and mark the wash sale periods to visually identify potential issues.
Has anyone tried a "summarized" approach with an explanatory statement? My CPA did this for me last year when I had a similarly complex situation. Instead of reporting 70+ individual lines, we: 1. Reported one summary line for covered securities on 8949 Box A 2. Reported one summary line for non-covered securities on 8949 Box B 3. Attached a detailed statement showing all calculations The key was making sure the totals matched what would have been reported if done line-by-line. The statement included all individual transactions and wash sale calculations. My CPA said this is an acceptable approach as long as the detailed backup is included.
This is exactly what I was hoping to find! My situation is almost identical - I'm looking at around 50+ lines and the complexity is getting overwhelming. A few follow-up questions if you don't mind: 1. How detailed was the explanatory statement? Did it include every single transaction or just the key wash sale chains? 2. When you say the totals matched what would have been reported line-by-line, did you verify this by actually calculating it both ways? 3. Any issues during processing or correspondence from the IRS afterward? I'm really tempted to go this route since manually entering 50+ lines seems like a recipe for errors, and the summarized approach sounds much more manageable while still being compliant.
Great questions! Here are the details from my experience: 1. The explanatory statement was quite comprehensive - it included every transaction with dates, quantities, and prices, plus a clear table showing how each wash sale was calculated and which transactions were involved in each chain. My CPA said the IRS wants to see that you understand the rules and applied them correctly. 2. Yes, we absolutely verified by calculating both ways. I actually started doing it line-by-line first, got overwhelmed, and then my CPA suggested the summary approach. We double-checked that the total gain/loss and basis adjustments were identical between the two methods. 3. No issues at all during processing, and it's been over a year with no correspondence. The key was making sure everything was properly documented and that our summary accurately reflected all the wash sale adjustments. One tip: make sure your explanatory statement clearly identifies which transactions are covered vs. non-covered, and show the wash sale chains separately for each type. This helps demonstrate that you properly handled the distinction that causes so many issues with broker reporting. The peace of mind from having clean, organized forms was worth it, especially since the alternative was 70+ lines with high potential for data entry errors.
22 Just a practical tip - make sure whatever name you put on your W-9 matches what you want on your payment checks! I made the mistake of only putting my legal name on my W-9 for an art fair, but all my booth signage and materials had my brand name. The fair made checks out to my legal name, which created issues depositing them since my bank account was in my brand name.
1 Oh that's a good point I hadn't considered! Does that mean I should open a bank account with my brand name too? Or can I deposit checks made out to my brand into my personal account?
22 If you're operating as a sole proprietor with a DBA (which sounds like your situation), you'll need to check with your specific bank. Some banks will let you deposit checks made out to your DBA name into your personal account if you've provided them documentation showing you operate under that name. To be safe, many artists open a separate bank account for their business activities. Some banks offer business checking accounts for sole proprietors where you can register your DBA name on the account. This makes depositing checks made out to your brand name much easier and also helps keep your business finances separate from personal ones, which is helpful for tax purposes.
14 Don't overthink this too much! I've been selling art at shows for years. I use my brand name on my W-9, but I've never formally registered it. The main thing is that you report all your income on your taxes. If you're a sole proprietor, it all goes on your Schedule C anyway.
19 This is actually bad advice. While you might get away with it, using an unregistered business name could potentially violate local DBA registration requirements depending on where you live. Many states require you to register your DBA before doing business under that name.
You're right that it's important to check local requirements! I just looked into my state's DBA rules after seeing your comment, and it turns out I do need to register if I want to open a business bank account under my brand name. The registration was pretty simple though - just a form and small fee at the county clerk's office. It's probably worth doing it properly from the start to avoid any complications down the road.
The 570 code is definitely stressful but try not to panic! I went through this exact situation last tax season. Mine showed up around the same time frame (late January filing, 570 appeared in February) and it ended up being resolved in about 4-5 weeks. In my case, they were just doing routine income verification - apparently my employer filed their quarterly reports a bit late, so the IRS needed extra time to match everything up. I never had to send in any documents or take any action on my part. The key thing is to keep monitoring both your transcript AND your mailbox religiously. If they need something from you, they'll send a letter with specific instructions. But honestly, a lot of these 570 holds resolve automatically once their internal review is complete. Your refund amount ($3,400) isn't unusually high, and since you have a simple W-2 return, there's a good chance this is just a routine verification that will clear up soon. I know the waiting sucks when you have bills due, but hang in there! πͺ
Thanks for sharing this! It's really helpful to hear from someone who went through the exact same thing. 4-5 weeks feels manageable, especially knowing it resolved automatically. I'm definitely going to keep checking my transcript daily and watching the mail like a hawk. Your point about routine income verification makes sense - I did file pretty early so maybe my employer's stuff wasn't fully processed yet. Really appreciate the reassurance! π
I'm going through the exact same thing right now! Filed on January 30th, got accepted same day, and now I'm seeing that dreaded 570 code on my transcript too. Mine also shows a February 2025 date which had me confused at first, but reading through these comments is making me feel a bit better. Like you, I have a super simple return - just W-2 income, standard deduction, no weird credits or anything. Was expecting about $2,800 back. It's so frustrating when you're counting on that money for bills and life expenses. I've been obsessively checking my transcript every day and watching the mailbox, but nothing yet. The waiting is absolutely killing me! At least now I know from the other comments that 2-8 weeks seems to be the normal timeframe and that a lot of these resolve on their own without needing to send in documents. Definitely going to keep monitoring everything closely. Hopefully we both get some movement soon! π€
I feel you completely! Same situation here - filed early, simple return, and now stuck in limbo with this 570 code. The daily transcript checking becomes an obsession real quick π At least we're not alone in this! Reading everyone's experiences here is definitely helping calm my nerves. Fingers crossed we both see some movement in the next few weeks. Keep me posted on how yours goes!
Has anyone used TurboTax or H&R Block software for reporting foreign pensions? I'm wondering if they handle these situations well or if I need something more specialized.
I tried using TurboTax for my German pension and it was a disaster. The software doesn't properly guide you through the foreign tax credit forms for specific types of foreign income. It also doesn't incorporate tax treaty provisions automatically - you have to know which ones apply to your situation. I ended up using a specialized expat tax service and they found that I'd been reporting things incorrectly for years. If your situation is simple, regular tax software might work, but for foreign pensions, I wouldn't risk it.
I'm dealing with a similar situation with my Italian disability pension, and after reading through all these responses, I wanted to share what I learned from my tax attorney. The key thing that many people miss is that disability pensions from workplace injuries often have different treaty treatment than regular retirement pensions. Since your pension is classified as "rente d'invaliditΓ© professionnelle" (work-related disability), you'll likely need to use Form 8833 to claim treaty benefits under Article 18 of the US-France tax treaty. What I found helpful was getting the official French documentation that clearly states the nature and classification of your pension payments. The IRS will want to see that it's specifically a work-related disability benefit, not just a general pension. Also, definitely don't overlook the FBAR filing if your French accounts exceed $10,000. The penalties are no joke - I learned that the hard way when I missed filing for two years and had to go through the voluntary disclosure process. One more tip: keep detailed records of all French taxes paid on this income. You'll need those exact amounts for Form 1116 if any portion ends up being taxable in the US after applying treaty provisions.
This is incredibly helpful, thank you! I'm just starting to navigate this whole situation and feeling pretty overwhelmed. Quick question - when you mention getting "official French documentation," are you talking about something specific from the French pension authority? I have my regular pension statements, but I'm not sure if those clearly spell out the work-related disability classification in a way the IRS would want to see. Also, for the voluntary disclosure process you went through - was it as scary as it sounds? I'm worried I might be in a similar boat since I've been filing US taxes for years without reporting this French income.
CosmicCruiser
Thank you all for this incredibly helpful discussion! As someone new to homeownership and dealing with this exact scenario for the first time, I was completely lost trying to interpret Publication 936 on my own. I bought my first home in February 2023 and then had to relocate for work, so I sold that house in August and purchased a new one in October. My tax software was giving me numbers that just didn't seem right, and now I understand why - it was treating both mortgages as if I owned them simultaneously. Based on what everyone has shared here, I need to calculate each home separately: - First home (Feb-Aug): mortgage was $425K, so all interest is deductible - Second home (Oct-Dec): mortgage is $820K, so I apply the $750K/$820K limitation The professional insights from Logan and Freya about documentation are especially valuable. I'll definitely create a worksheet showing the ownership periods and calculations, and include the Pub 936 references they mentioned. This community is amazing - you've saved me from either overpaying taxes or potentially getting into trouble with incorrect calculations. Really appreciate everyone taking the time to explain this complex situation so clearly!
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Zainab Ibrahim
β’Welcome to the community, CosmicCruiser! Your situation sounds very similar to what others have described here, and it's great that you're getting it sorted out before filing. The work relocation scenario is actually pretty common - I've seen several cases where people have to sell and buy within the same tax year due to job changes. One thing to double-check with your October purchase - make sure you're calculating the average balance correctly for just the October-December period when you owned that second home. So if you closed in mid-October, you'd prorate that first month. It might not make a huge difference in the final number, but it's worth being precise. Also, keep all your HUD-1 settlement statements or closing disclosures from both transactions. They'll show exactly when you took ownership and can help support your timeline if there are ever any questions. The documentation approach that Logan and Freya outlined is spot-on - I always feel more confident filing when I have that paper trail backing up my calculations. Good luck with your filing, and glad this discussion could help clear things up!
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Liam Cortez
This thread has been incredibly educational! I'm facing a similar situation but with a slight twist - I had overlapping ownership for about 3 weeks while closing on both properties. From what I'm understanding here, that brief overlap period might change how I need to calculate things. During those 3 weeks in June 2023, I technically owned both homes simultaneously - my old home with a $380K mortgage and the new one with a $720K mortgage. For that specific period, would I need to use the combined average balance method that TurboTax was incorrectly applying to everyone else's sequential ownership situations? So my calculation would be: - Jan-May: Old home only, $380K mortgage (100% deductible, under limit) - June overlap period: Combined $1.1M total, so $750K/$1.1M = 68% of interest deductible for both properties - July-Dec: New home only, $750K/$720K = 100% deductible (actually under the limit) Has anyone else dealt with this overlapping ownership scenario? The professional advice from Logan and Freya has been so helpful, but I want to make sure I understand how the brief simultaneous ownership affects the calculation.
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