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dont forget to file FBAR if u have foreign bank accounts with more than $10,000 combined at any point during the year!!!! this is separate from tax return and has a diffrent deadline (april 15 with automatic extension to oct 15). penalties r crazy high if u dont file this
Also want to add that FinCEN Form 114 (FBAR) is filed electronically through the FinCEN BSA E-Filing System, not with your tax return. The threshold is the COMBINED total of all your foreign accounts, so if you have three accounts with $4,000 each, you'd still need to file even though no single account exceeds $10,000.
I went through this exact same situation last year! As an F1 student, you're definitely still in your exempt period since you've only been here 18 months. The 5-year exemption clock starts from your first entry to the US on F1 status, not from when you complete 5 full years. A few important things to remember: - File Form 1040NR (nonresident alien return) - Don't forget Form 8843 to claim your exempt status - this is required even if you have no income - Your on-campus work income is taxable, but make sure to check if your country has a tax treaty with the US for potential benefits - Scholarship money for tuition/required fees is generally not taxable, but amounts for room/board are Since you mentioned being confused by conflicting info online, I'd recommend reaching out to your university's international student services office - they usually have tax workshops specifically for F1 students during tax season. Also, many universities offer free tax preparation assistance through VITA programs that are trained on international student situations. The key thing is don't stress too much - you're still well within the exempt period and have clear guidance on filing as a nonresident alien!
Don't stress too much about the audit risk. The IRS expects new businesses to have losses in the beginning. I've had losses for my pottery business for 2 years and finally turned a profit in year 3. Never got audited. Just make sure your expenses are actually business-related and reasonable. Like don't try claiming a full spa day for yourself as "research" lol. That's the kind of thing that raises flags.
Great question! I'm also a service-based business owner (freelance graphic design) and went through this exact same situation in my first year. You definitely need to file Schedule C even with a loss - but like others mentioned, that loss actually works in your favor by reducing your overall tax burden from your W-2 income. One thing I learned the hard way is to make sure you're categorizing your startup costs correctly. Some of those certification courses and equipment purchases might need to be depreciated over multiple years rather than fully deducted in year one, depending on the amounts. The IRS has specific rules about startup expenses over $5,000. Also, since you're doing both employee work and self-employment, you'll still owe self-employment tax on your $11,400 of business income (even though you had a net loss after expenses). It's about 15.3% on that income, but you can deduct half of that SE tax as an adjustment to income. Keep those detailed records you mentioned - they're your best protection. The "hobby loss rule" only becomes an issue if you show losses for multiple consecutive years without demonstrating you're genuinely trying to make a profit. One year of losses is totally normal and expected for a new business!
Can someone please explain the difference between the American Opportunity Credit and the Lifetime Learning Credit on Form 8863? I have two kids in college and I'm not sure which one to use for each of them.
American Opportunity Credit: - Up to $2,500 credit per eligible student - Only for first 4 years of higher education - Student must be pursuing a degree - Must be enrolled at least half-time - Includes course materials, computers if needed Lifetime Learning Credit: - Up to $2,000 credit per tax return (not per student) - Available for any years of higher education - Available for courses to acquire or improve job skills - No minimum enrollment - More restrictive on what expenses qualify Generally, AOTC is better if your student qualifies!
Thanks for breaking that down so clearly! I think my freshman will qualify for the American Opportunity Credit since she's in her first year and enrolled full-time. My older one is in a vocational program taking just one class per term, so it sounds like the Lifetime Learning Credit makes more sense for her. I'm guessing I'll need to fill out separate sections of Form 8863 for each of them, right?
Actually, I want to clarify something important about your original calculation. The computer expense might not qualify depending on the specifics. For the American Opportunity Credit, computers and software only count as qualified expenses if they're required for enrollment or attendance by ALL students in the course of study - not just helpful or recommended. If the computer was just something you bought to help her with schoolwork but wasn't specifically required by the school, then your calculation would be: $7,500 (tuition) - $3,250 (scholarship) = $4,250 in qualified expenses. Also, make sure to check if any portion of that merit scholarship was designated for specific non-qualified expenses like room and board. If the scholarship terms allow flexibility in how it's used, you might be able to allocate some of it to living expenses (making that portion taxable to your daughter) while preserving more tuition expenses for the education credit. This strategy often results in a better overall tax outcome, especially if your daughter has minimal other income. I'd recommend reviewing the scholarship award letter and your daughter's 1098-T form carefully to see exactly what options you have for optimizing this calculation on Form 8863.
This is really helpful clarification about the computer expense requirement! I didn't realize it had to be required for ALL students in the program, not just useful for coursework. That's a pretty strict standard that probably rules out most computer purchases. Your point about potentially reallocating the scholarship funds is intriguing too. If the merit scholarship doesn't have specific restrictions, it sounds like there could be some strategic tax planning opportunities there. I'm wondering though - wouldn't making part of the scholarship taxable to the daughter potentially affect her eligibility for need-based aid in future years if it increases her income significantly? Also, do you know if the IRS ever audits these scholarship allocation decisions, or is it generally accepted as long as you have documentation of the scholarship terms?
Great points about the scholarship reallocation strategy! Regarding your FAFSA concern - yes, making scholarship money taxable could potentially affect future aid eligibility since it would increase the student's adjusted gross income. However, the impact depends on the amounts involved and the family's overall financial situation. For most families, the immediate tax benefit from optimizing education credits outweighs the potential reduction in future need-based aid, especially since merit scholarships often indicate the student may be less dependent on need-based aid anyway. But it's definitely worth running the numbers for your specific situation. As for IRS audits on scholarship allocations - they do happen, but they're not super common. The key is having clear documentation. Keep the original scholarship award letter, any communications from the school about how funds can be used, and records of what expenses you actually paid for. If the scholarship terms are silent on restrictions, you generally have flexibility in allocation. Just make sure your allocation is reasonable and you can defend it with documentation if questioned. The IRS looks for consistency between what you report and what makes sense given the scholarship terms and actual expenses paid.
Went through this last year and what worked for me was calling the Taxpayer Advocate Service. They're an independent organization within the IRS that helps when you're having financial difficulties or when the normal IRS channels aren't working. They assigned me an advocate who helped review my reconsideration request before I submitted it and even followed up with the IRS for me. Completely free service too. Google "Taxpayer Advocate Service" + your state to find your local office.
This is really helpful - I didn't know about the Taxpayer Advocate Service. Did they help you with the actual writing of the letter or just review what you had already prepared?
They actually helped me with both! My advocate reviewed my draft letter and suggested several improvements - like being more specific about which tax code sections supported my position and reorganizing my evidence to match the order of issues in the audit report. They also helped me understand what the IRS was really looking for in each disputed item. The best part was that they stayed involved throughout the process and could check on the status of my case internally, so I didn't have to deal with the phone system nightmare. Definitely reach out to them early in the process if you can - they can prevent a lot of headaches.
I went through the same struggle a few months ago and ended up combining several approaches mentioned here. First, I used the IRS publication that Ethan linked - it really does give you the framework even without an exact template. Then I contacted the Taxpayer Advocate Service like Carmen suggested, and they were incredibly helpful in reviewing my draft and making sure I addressed all the specific points from my audit notice. The key thing I learned is that organization matters more than perfect writing. I created a simple table that listed each disputed item from the audit in one column, my response/explanation in the middle column, and the supporting document reference in the third column. This made it crystal clear for the IRS reviewer to follow my logic. One tip that really helped: I started each paragraph addressing a disputed item with "Regarding [specific line item from audit notice]..." and ended each section with "See attached Exhibit [letter]." This kept everything focused and easy to follow. The whole letter ended up being about 1.5 pages, but it was backed up by well-organized exhibits. Don't let the formal writing intimidate you - clear, factual communication is what they're looking for, not fancy language. Good luck!
Mei Zhang
Just FYI - if you do end up filing 1040-X for the inventory error, expect it to take FOREVER to process. I filed an amended return last April for a similar issue and it took 9 months to get my refund. The IRS is insanely backlogged still.
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Liam McGuire
ā¢You can check the status of your amended return online now through the "Where's My Amended Return" tool on IRS.gov. At least that way you're not completely in the dark about where it stands in processing.
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Elijah Jackson
I went through almost the exact same situation with my small eBay business last year! You're absolutely right to be concerned, but the good news is this is totally fixable. First, let me echo what Mateo said - when you overstate ending inventory, you're actually overstating your profit, which means you likely OVERPAID taxes rather than underpaid. The math works like this: higher ending inventory = lower cost of goods sold = higher reported profit = more taxes owed. For your situation with the $3,700 difference ($5,800 vs $2,100), I'd definitely recommend filing Form 1040-X to amend your 2021 return. With that size difference, you're probably looking at a decent refund. The process isn't too complicated - just recalculate your Schedule C with the correct ending inventory figure and file the amended return. A few tips from my experience: - Keep detailed documentation of how you determined the correct $2,100 value - Include a clear explanation with your 1040-X about the inventory valuation error - Going forward, stick with cost basis for inventory valuation - it's much simpler and more defensible than trying to estimate fair market value The IRS won't penalize you for an honest mistake that resulted in you overpaying. If anything, they owe YOU money! Just be prepared for the amended return to take several months to process.
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Aria Khan
ā¢This is really helpful advice, thank you! I'm feeling much more confident about moving forward now. The idea that I might have actually overpaid taxes instead of underpaid is such a relief - I was worried I'd be in trouble with the IRS. One quick question about the documentation you mentioned - when you say "detailed documentation of how you determined the correct $2,100 value," what exactly should I include? Should I gather all my original purchase receipts, or is a summary with the methodology sufficient? I have most of my receipts but some are from online purchases going back a couple years and might take time to track down. Also, did you end up getting a significant refund from your amended return? Just trying to get a sense of whether this will be worth the paperwork hassle.
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