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I've been dealing with IRS delays myself and found that persistence with the phone system really does pay off eventually. One thing that helped me was calling the IRS Collections line at 800-829-7650 instead of the main number - it sounds counterintuitive, but when they answer, you can explain that you're calling about a refund delay and they'll often transfer you to the right department. The wait times seemed shorter on this line in my experience. Also, if you're comfortable with it, try reaching out to your local IRS Taxpayer Assistance Center. Even though they're not taking walk-ins right now, some locations will take calls and can sometimes provide more detailed information than the national hotlines. One more tip - when you do get through to someone, ask them to put detailed notes in your account about what they find and what they tell you. That way if you need to call again, the next agent can see the history instead of starting from scratch. I learned this the hard way after having to explain my situation multiple times to different agents. The 3-month delay you're experiencing is unfortunately pretty common right now, but don't give up. Your refund will come through!
That's a really smart approach using the Collections line! I never would have thought to try that number for a refund issue, but it makes sense that they might have shorter wait times. The tip about asking agents to put detailed notes in your account is gold - I've definitely had the frustrating experience of having to re-explain everything to multiple different representatives. I'm curious about the Taxpayer Assistance Centers taking calls - do you just call the general number for your local office, or is there a specific line for phone consultations? I've been hesitant to try contacting them since I thought they were only doing appointments, but if some are taking calls that could be another avenue to explore. Thanks for sharing the Collections line number - I'm adding that to my list of numbers to try. At this point I'm willing to try any approach that might get me through to an actual human who can help figure out what's going on with my return!
I went through this exact same nightmare last year and finally got results using a multi-pronged approach. Here's what worked for me: **Phone Strategy:** Call 800-829-1040 at exactly 7:00 AM EST on Tuesday or Wednesday. Press 1 for English, then immediately press 2-1-3-2 without waiting for the prompts to finish completely. When it asks about forms, don't say anything - just wait in complete silence for about 20 seconds and it should transfer you to a live agent. **Documentation Tip:** Before calling, gather your filing confirmation, any IRS notices you've received, and write down your exact filing date. When you do reach an agent, be very specific: "I filed on [date], it's been X days, and I need to know the specific reason for the delay." This gets much better results than just asking "where's my refund?" **Backup Options:** - Try the Taxpayer Advocate Service at 877-777-4778 (mention if the delay is causing any financial hardship) - Call the Collections line at 800-829-7650 and ask to be transferred to refund inquiry - Contact your Congressional representative's office - they have caseworkers who deal with IRS issues **What to Expect:** 3-month delays are unfortunately common right now, especially if your return has certain credits or needs manual review. The agents can see much more detail than the "Where's My Refund" tool shows. Don't give up - persistence really does pay off with the IRS phone system!
This is exactly the kind of comprehensive guide I wish I'd had when I started this frustrating journey! I'm definitely going to try your phone strategy - the specific timing about pressing buttons without waiting for prompts to finish is something I hadn't heard before. I really appreciate you including backup options too. I didn't realize Congressional representatives had caseworkers who specifically deal with IRS issues - that could be a game-changer if the phone approaches don't work out. One quick question about the documentation tip: when you say "filing confirmation," do you mean the email confirmation from tax software, or is there a specific IRS document I should have? I used TurboTax to file, so I have their confirmation, but I'm not sure if that's what the IRS agent would need to reference. Thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed response - it gives me hope that there's actually a way through this maze!
Honestly might be worth checking if any of these places offer free consultations first. I've heard some will at least look over your docs and give you a rough estimate of complexity/cost before you commit. That way you can shop around without getting locked into their fees upfront.
That's solid advice! Most people don't realize you can get quotes from multiple places. I'd also suggest asking upfront what their guarantee policy is if they make an error - some places will cover penalties/interest while others leave you hanging š¬
Just want to add that regardless of which chain you choose, bring ALL your documents organized beforehand. I've seen people get charged extra fees just because they showed up unprepared and the preparer had to spend more time sorting through their stuff. Also, double-check everything before you sign - these places can get busy during tax season and mistakes happen more often when they're rushing through returns.
Don't overthink the building management fees! I spent hours researching this same question last year. The admin fee and move-in fee are definitely deductible in year 1 as rental expenses. The working capital contribution is trickier - technically it's a deposit into the building's reserve, so it's not immediately deductible. Also, make sure TurboTax is prorating your expenses correctly for the partial year. For things like property taxes and insurance, you can only deduct the portion that applies to when the property was actually a rental (Oct-Dec in your case). So that would be 3/12 of your annual amounts. This might be why some of your numbers look off.
For the working capital contribution specifically, I believe you can deduct it when the building actually spends the money on deductible expenses. My condo sends me a statement each year showing what portion of my contribution was used for repairs vs. capital improvements, which helps for tax purposes.
I had a very similar situation with my first rental property! Your cost basis calculation is definitely off - with a $520k purchase price, that $134,628 figure suggests there's an input error somewhere in TurboTax. A few things to double-check: 1. Make sure you entered the correct land/building allocation. Based on your tax assessment ($215k land, $100k improvements), you should allocate roughly 68% to land and 32% to building from your purchase price. 2. Verify you didn't accidentally enter a partial ownership percentage or put in the wrong purchase price. 3. The bathroom renovation ($15k) should be added to your depreciable basis since it was done before placing in service. Your depreciable basis should be approximately: ($520k - $353k land value) + $15k renovation = ~$182k for the building portion. For the closing costs, most of what you listed (recording fees, title insurance, legal fees) get capitalized into your basis rather than expensed immediately. The admin fee and move-in fee to building management can typically be expensed in year 1, but the working capital contribution is usually treated as a capital asset. Also make sure TurboTax is correctly prorating your expenses for the 3-month rental period (Oct-Dec). Your actual deductible expenses should be much higher than $257 for three months of operation.
Thanks Isabella! This is really helpful. I think you might have the land/building allocation backwards though - my tax assessment shows $215k for land and $100k for improvements, so wouldn't that mean land is about 68% and building is 32%? That would make my depreciable basis even lower at around $166k + $15k renovation = $181k, which is still way higher than the $134k TurboTax is showing me. I'm definitely going to go back and check all my inputs carefully. The prorating issue makes a lot of sense too - $257 in deductions for 3 months of expenses seemed way too low when I have thousands in actual costs. One more question - when you say the closing costs get "capitalized into basis," does that mean they get added to the $520k purchase price for depreciation purposes, or do they affect the calculation differently?
FYI, I've filed the final 990-N for two small organizations and it's super easy! You just go to the IRS website, log in to the e-Postcard system, and there's literally a checkbox for "This is the final return." You check that, enter the dissolution date, and that's pretty much it. The whole process took me maybe 10 minutes.
Which IRS website exactly? There are so many different pages and I can never find what I'm looking for on there.
You can find the 990-N e-Postcard system at irs.gov/charities-non-profits/annual-electronic-filing-requirement-for-small-exempt-organizations-form-990-n-e-postcard. There's also a direct link to the filing system on that page. Just search for "990-N e-postcard" on the IRS website and it should be the first result.
Just want to add that you should definitely not ignore the IRS notice, even for a dissolved nonprofit. I learned this the hard way when I thought I could just let a tiny organization "fade away" without proper closure. The IRS will eventually revoke your tax-exempt status retroactively, which can create complications if anyone ever questions the organization's tax status during the years it was active. Even though your nonprofit only had minimal income, having a clean closure on record protects you from any future issues. The 990-N filing really is straightforward once you know what to do. Since you already transferred the assets to the parent organization in 2023, you have everything you need to complete the final filing. Just make sure to use 2023 as your dissolution date when you file the final return.
This is such an important point about not ignoring IRS notices! I'm dealing with something similar right now - inherited the mess from a previous volunteer who just walked away without properly closing things out. Quick question though: when you mention using 2023 as the dissolution date, should that be the exact date the bank account was closed and assets transferred, or just sometime in 2023? I have the bank transfer date but not sure if I need to be that specific on the form. Also really glad to see all the helpful resources people have shared here. As someone new to dealing with nonprofit tax stuff, this thread has been incredibly educational!
Sean O'Donnell
Seriously, don't skip professional liability insurance if you're starting a tax prep business! I learned this the hard way when I made a calculation error on a client's Schedule C that resulted in them owing penalties. The client threatened to sue for the penalties plus damages. Insurance saved me thousands. Also, make sure you understand and use proper engagement letters with every client that clearly outline your responsibilities and theirs. This includes what happens if there's an audit, who's responsible for providing accurate information, and your fee structure.
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Zara Ahmed
ā¢Do you have a recommendation for a good insurance provider? And roughly how much should someone expect to pay for proper coverage when just starting out?
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Sean O'Donnell
ā¢I use Travelers Insurance which has specific coverage options for tax preparers, but also look into Hiscox and CNA - they're all reputable for this field. For a new preparer doing around 100 returns annually, you might expect to pay between $400-700 per year for a decent policy with $500,000 in coverage. The exact price will depend on your location, how many returns you prepare, and the complexity of those returns. If you join a professional organization like the National Association of Tax Professionals (NATP) or the National Association of Enrolled Agents (NAEA), you can often get discounted rates on liability insurance through their partner providers.
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Dmitri Volkov
Great advice from everyone here! I'm in a similar position - worked at a regional CPA firm for a few years but thinking about branching out on my own. One thing I'd add is to consider starting very small and growing gradually. Maybe begin with just 20-30 clients your first year to really understand the business side of things. Also, don't underestimate the technology costs beyond just tax software. You'll need secure file storage, client portals for document sharing, appointment scheduling systems, and potentially a separate business phone line. These costs can add up quickly but are essential for running a professional operation. One last tip - consider specializing in a particular niche rather than trying to be everything to everyone. Whether it's small business owners, freelancers, or people with rental properties, having expertise in specific areas can help you command higher fees and build a reputation.
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Dmitry Petrov
ā¢This is such valuable advice, especially about starting small and growing gradually! I'm completely new to the tax prep world but have been considering it as a career change. The technology costs you mentioned are something I hadn't even thought about - I was just focused on the software itself. Could you elaborate on what kind of secure file storage solutions work best for tax preparers? And regarding specialization, how do you go about identifying which niche might be most profitable in your local market? I imagine some areas might have more freelancers while others have more rental property owners, etc. Also, for someone just starting out, would you recommend trying to handle the technology setup yourself or hiring someone to help get it all configured properly from a security standpoint?
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