I've been through this exact same frustrating situation with a 570 hold that dragged on for weeks! Those transcript dates are absolutely confusing and don't give you any real insight into what's actually happening. From my experience, the "AS OF" date is basically meaningless - it's just when their system last touched your account and it can jump around randomly. The "RECEIVED DATE" showing March 3rd is likely when their internal processing system picked up your e-filed return, which often differs from when you actually submitted it. A 570 code without a accompanying 971 notice code typically means it's just a routine review - they could be verifying your income against W-2s/1099s, checking math, or validating credits like EIC or Child Tax Credit. Since you filed jointly, they might be cross-referencing both your and your spouse's income documents. The brutal truth is there's really nothing you can do except wait it out. Most 570 holds resolve automatically within 4-8 weeks, and since yours started around February 20th, you're still within that normal timeframe (even though it feels like an eternity when it's your money). Keep checking your transcript weekly for codes 571 (hold released) and 846 (refund issued). I know the waiting game is absolutely maddening, but try to hang in there - most people do eventually get through this!

I completely understand your frustration with the 570 hold - I've been dealing with the exact same situation since late February and it's been driving me absolutely crazy trying to figure out what all these dates mean! From what I've learned through this whole ordeal, the "AS OF" date (March 10th in your case) is basically just a system timestamp that shows when the IRS last processed or updated your account. It doesn't actually indicate when your return will be completed, and it can jump around randomly which is why you might see it appearing twice on your transcript. The "RECEIVED DATE" showing March 3rd is likely when their internal processing system picked up your e-filed return, which often differs from when you actually submitted it in early February. There can be delays between when you file and when it enters their processing queue. A 570 code without any accompanying notice codes (like 971) usually means it's a routine review - could be income verification where they're matching your W-2s/1099s, math checks, or credit eligibility verification. Since you filed jointly, they might be cross-referencing both your and your spouse's income documents. The waiting is absolutely brutal, but most 570 holds resolve automatically within 4-8 weeks. Since yours started around February 20th, you're still within the normal processing window. Keep checking your transcript weekly for code 571 (hold released) followed by 846 (refund issued). Hang in there - we'll get through this!

Thanks for sharing your situation! I was in almost the exact same boat last year - got a 1095-C from my employer even though I was covered under my spouse's plan the entire time. I completely understand the initial panic! The good news is that everyone here has given you solid advice. The form is really just your employer's way of documenting that they offered you ACA-compliant coverage, which they're required to do for all full-time employees regardless of whether you actually enrolled. One thing I'd add is to double-check that your employer didn't accidentally mark you as enrolled in Part III of the form. If they did, definitely reach out to HR to get it corrected. But if it's just Parts I and II filled out (showing what was offered), then you're all set - just file it away with your tax records and don't stress about it. The codes in your boxes should tell the whole story. Sounds like yours are probably filled out correctly showing you were offered coverage but declined it. These forms can be confusing but they're really more for the government's record-keeping than anything you need to worry about!

I went through this exact same confusion a couple years ago! Got my 1095-C in the mail and immediately thought there was some kind of mistake since I've been on my wife's insurance plan through her job for years. What I learned is that the IRS requires employers to send these forms to ALL full-time employees, even if you never signed up for their health plan. It's basically their way of proving to the government that they offered you compliant health coverage as required by the ACA. The key is to look at the specific codes on your form. In Box 14, you'll probably see a code like 1A, 1B, or 1E which just indicates what type of coverage they offered you. In Box 16, there might be a code like 2C or 2G showing that you weren't enrolled because you had other coverage. As long as Part III of the form isn't filled out (which would indicate you actually enrolled in their plan), you're totally fine. You don't need to include this form when filing your taxes - it's just for record keeping. Keep it with your other tax documents in case the IRS ever has questions, but otherwise you can just file it away and forget about it!

I'm dealing with a similar situation but for my elderly father's 403(b) account. He missed his 2023 RMD of $2,400 and we just caught it last month. We've already taken the distribution to correct it. One thing I learned from our tax preparer is that you should also keep documentation showing when you took the corrective distribution - bank statements, 1099-R forms, etc. The IRS may ask for proof that you actually corrected the mistake, especially if there's a gap between when you missed the RMD and when you took it. Also, if your RMD was calculated based on December 31, 2022 account balance, make sure that calculation was correct in the first place. Sometimes people think they missed an RMD when actually their calculation was wrong and they didn't owe one. Worth double-checking the IRS life expectancy tables to be sure. The $67.50 penalty you calculated sounds right (10% of the shortfall), but definitely go with the $0 on Line 55 approach that others have mentioned. First-time missed RMDs with reasonable cause explanations get approved for waivers most of the time.

I had this exact same confusion when I missed my 2022 RMD. The key thing to understand is that Line 55 on Form 5329 serves two purposes depending on whether you're requesting a waiver or not. If you're NOT requesting a waiver, you calculate and enter the 10% penalty amount ($67.50 in your case) and pay it with your return. If you ARE requesting a waiver (which you should since you've corrected the mistake), you enter $0 on Line 55, write "RC" next to it, and attach your explanation letter. You don't pay anything upfront. Your calculation is correct - the penalty would be $67.50 if you had to pay it. But since you've already taken the corrective distribution and have reasonable cause, you should request the waiver by putting $0 on Line 55. Make sure your explanation letter mentions that this was an honest oversight, you corrected it as soon as you realized the mistake, and you've put systems in place to prevent it from happening again. The IRS is generally very reasonable with first-time RMD penalty waivers when people show good faith by correcting the situation promptly. Don't stress too much about this - it's a very common mistake and the IRS processes thousands of these waiver requests successfully every year.

The 24% total tax rate you're seeing is absolutely normal for your income level! A lot of people get confused because they focus only on the federal income tax brackets (10%, 12%, 22%), but those percentages don't include all the other taxes that come out of your paycheck. Here's what's likely making up your 24%: - Federal income tax: probably around 10-12% effective rate for your income - Social Security tax: 6.2% (this is a flat rate on wages up to ~$168K) - Medicare tax: 1.45% (flat rate on all wages) - State income tax: varies by state, could be anywhere from 0-6%+ - Possibly local/city taxes depending on where you work So when you add federal income tax + Social Security (6.2%) + Medicare (1.45%) + state taxes, you easily get to that 24% range. To see exactly where your money is going, look at your ADP paystub - it should have separate line items for each type of tax. You can also log into your ADP employee portal online to see year-to-date totals for each tax category, which gives you an even clearer picture of your overall tax burden. The good news is your 6% 401k contribution is actually helping reduce your taxable income, so you're saving on taxes there!

Your 24% tax withholding is totally normal! I had the same confusion when I first started working and couldn't understand why my take-home was so much less than I expected. The key thing to remember is that the tax brackets you see (10%, 12%, 22%) are ONLY for federal income tax. But your total tax burden includes a bunch of other stuff: - Federal income tax (those bracket rates) - Social Security: 6.2% - Medicare: 1.45% - State income tax (varies by state, usually 3-6%) - Sometimes local/city taxes too So even if your federal income tax is around 12%, you're automatically adding 7.65% just for Social Security and Medicare, plus whatever your state charges. That gets you to your 24% pretty quickly! The best part is that your 6% 401k contribution is actually reducing your taxable income, so you're saving money there. If you weren't contributing to retirement, your tax percentage would be even higher. Check your ADP paystub - it should break down each tax type separately so you can see exactly where every dollar is going. Understanding this stuff really helps with budgeting!

This is exactly why I always recommend getting an independent appraisal for high-value business vehicle trades, especially when dealing with significant depreciation recapture. The IRS has access to valuation databases and will scrutinize trade-in values that seem inflated. In your case, getting exactly what you paid ($65,000) after 2-3 years of use on a construction truck does seem unusually high - most commercial vehicles depreciate faster than that due to wear and tear. You might want to document why the trade-in value equals your original purchase price (low mileage, excellent condition, market appreciation, etc.) in case the IRS questions it. Also consider that if the IRS later determines the actual FMV was lower than $65,000, it would actually reduce your depreciation recapture amount. For example, if they determine FMV was $55,000, your recapture would be $55,000 instead of $57,000, since recapture is limited to the lesser of depreciation taken or gain realized.

Since the trade is already completed, I'd focus on gathering strong documentation rather than getting a formal appraisal at this point. Collect your maintenance records, photos showing the truck's condition, mileage documentation, and maybe some comparable sales data from that time period to justify the $65,000 value. The used truck market really was exceptional in 2024-2025, especially for commercial vehicles, so your trade-in value isn't as unusual as it might seem. Construction trucks that are well-maintained and garage-kept often hold value better than people expect. You're right that a lower FMV determination would reduce your recapture, but it would also reduce your basis in the new truck for depreciation purposes. The IRS typically accepts dealer trade-in values when they're reasonable and supported by market conditions, so as long as you have good documentation, you should be fine. One more tip - make sure your depreciation calculations account for any personal use percentage if applicable, even though you mentioned 100% business use. The IRS scrutinizes high depreciation claims on vehicles more closely than other business assets.