This is such a timely question! I just went through this exact situation for my 2024 taxes. I'm registered in Texas but placed winning bets while traveling for work in Nevada, Louisiana, and Arizona. After consulting with a tax professional, here's what I learned: technically, you're supposed to file nonresident returns in each state where you physically placed winning bets, regardless of where you're registered with the app. The key factor is your physical location when the bet was placed, not your registration address. However, the enforcement is still inconsistent. Some states are getting more aggressive about tracking this (especially states with higher tax rates who want their piece), while others haven't caught up yet. The apps do track your location for regulatory compliance, and this data is increasingly being shared with state tax authorities. For your situation, I'd recommend keeping those detailed records you mentioned and filing properly in each state where you had significant winnings (maybe $500+ threshold). You can then claim credits on your Ohio return for taxes paid to other states to avoid double taxation. If we're talking smaller amounts, the risk might be low, but with the trend toward more enforcement, it's probably safer to file correctly from the start. The hobby vs. professional distinction doesn't change the sourcing rules - winnings are still taxable where the activity occurred regardless of how you classify your gambling activities.

Based on my experience dealing with this exact issue, the answer is unfortunately "it depends" on several factors. The general rule is that gambling winnings are taxable in the state where you were physically located when placing the bet, not where you're registered with the app. However, there are some practical considerations: 1. **Amount matters**: For smaller winnings (under $500-1000 per state), many tax professionals suggest the enforcement risk is relatively low and you might choose to report everything on your home state return. 2. **State-specific rules**: Each state has different filing thresholds and requirements. Some require filing for any amount, others have minimum thresholds. 3. **Documentation**: Since you're already keeping detailed records showing where each bet was placed, you have the information needed to file correctly if you choose to do so. 4. **Hobby vs. Professional**: This classification doesn't change the sourcing rules for where winnings are taxable, but it does affect how losses can be deducted and reported. My recommendation would be to check the specific filing requirements for each state where you had winnings over $300-500, and consider filing nonresident returns for those states. You can then claim credits on your Ohio return for taxes paid to other states to avoid double taxation. The trend is definitely moving toward more enforcement as states get better at tracking mobile betting data, so filing correctly from the start might save you headaches later.

Something similar happened to my brother with TaxAct. The bank details were changed to some random credit union in Nevada. His issue was that someone had his SSN from a previous data breach. Have you checked your credit reports lately? If someone has enough of your personal info to file taxes, they might be opening other accounts too. Also, did you get an email confirmation from FreeTaxUSA after filing? Sometimes they include the last 4 digits of the account number in that confirmation. If those digits don't match what the IRS has, that would confirm the change happened after your submission.

This is definitely a concerning situation, and I'm glad the IRS flagged it before processing your refund! As someone who works in tax preparation, I've seen this exact scenario multiple times this filing season. First, verify that the IRS letter is legitimate by calling the number on the official IRS website (not any number listed in the letter itself). Real IRS correspondence will have specific formatting and reference numbers. If it's legitimate, here's what likely happened: Someone gained access to your FreeTaxUSA account after you prepared your return but before final submission, or potentially intercepted your data during transmission. The good news is that the IRS identity verification process exists specifically for situations like this. When you contact the IRS, ask them to: 1. Confirm no refund was issued to that account 2. Place an Identity Theft indicator on your account 3. Switch your refund method to a paper check 4. Provide you with an Identity Protection PIN for future filings Also immediately contact FreeTaxUSA to report the unauthorized account change and ask for their fraud investigation process. Change all your passwords and consider enabling two-factor authentication on all financial accounts. Document everything - dates, times, representative names, and case numbers. This will help if you need to escalate or follow up later. The resolution process typically takes 2-4 weeks once the IRS confirms the fraud.

Has anyone considered that they might be treating the holding period differently? I noticed that GainsKeeper and TradeLog sometimes differ in how they treat the holding period after a wash sale adjustment. GainsKeeper tends to restart the holding period for the entire position after a wash sale, which is generally correct per IRS rules. But TradeLog sometimes maintains separate lots with different holding periods which can affect how they allocate the adjustments across different lines on Form 8949. This becomes really important if you're straddling the line between short-term and long-term capital gains. Might explain why they're treating lines 4 and 5 differently if those involve positions with complicated holding period calculations.

Great to hear you figured it out! The $43 difference across 220+ trades is actually pretty impressive accuracy for both systems. That small variance is likely just rounding differences in how they handle fractional shares or timing calculations. You made the right choice going with GainsKeeper since it aligns with your 1099-B format. This is exactly why I always recommend starting with whatever matches your brokerage reporting - it makes everything so much cleaner if you ever get questioned by the IRS. For anyone else dealing with similar wash sale software discrepancies, Natasha's approach here is spot on: compare the bottom line totals first, then choose the method that best matches your actual brokerage statements. The IRS cares much more about the final numbers being economically accurate than the specific methodology used to get there. One last tip - keep both reports in your tax files even though you're only using one. If you ever get audited, having the alternative calculation that produced nearly identical results actually strengthens your position by showing you did your due diligence.

This is normal. Chime releases early. IRS actually sent it yesterday. Regular banks hold until official release date. Nothing to worry about. Your kids will recover from the scare. Happens every tax season. Chime business model relies on early releases. Perfectly legitimate transaction. Enjoy your refund!

This is such valuable data! I filed on 2/16 with similar circumstances (AGI $38,200, standard deduction, direct deposit to Chime) and got my deposit yesterday too. What's interesting is that my WMR tool still shows "processing" even though the money is already in my account. For anyone wondering about the technical side: Chime gets the ACH pre-notification from the Federal Reserve about 1-2 days before the official settlement date, and they credit your account immediately instead of waiting. Traditional banks receive the same pre-notification but hold the funds until the Treasury's official release date. It's essentially Chime giving you a short-term loan against the guaranteed incoming deposit. This is why you might see the deposit before your transcript updates with the final codes!

Here's what you need to know about the Child Tax Credit and changing dependents between tax years: • The IRS tracks credits by BOTH the taxpayer ID and dependent SSN • You should answer based on whether YOU personally received the credit • If you answer "No" (which is accurate for you), you'll get the credit • Your return may be flagged for additional verification • The IRS will confirm the child isn't claimed by multiple people in the current tax year • They understand that dependents can legitimately change between years • Expect processing to take 1-2 weeks longer than usual • Keep documentation showing the child lived with you for more than half the year The system is designed to handle these situations, but be prepared for potential verification requests.

I went through this exact scenario two years ago and can share what worked for me. The key is understanding that the IRS question is specifically asking about YOUR tax situation, not the child's history. Since you didn't personally receive the Child Tax Credit last year (your oldest son did), you should answer "No" when asked if you received it. This is the truthful answer for your tax situation. The IRS systems are sophisticated enough to track that the same child was claimed by different taxpayers in different years - this happens frequently with legitimate custody changes, family financial situations, etc. A few important points: • Make sure your oldest son is NOT claiming your younger son this year • Keep documentation showing the child lived with you for more than half of 2024 • Your return might take 2-3 weeks instead of the usual processing time • You may receive a letter asking for verification, but this is routine I was worried about the same "flags" you mentioned, but my refund processed without any issues. The IRS expects these situations and has procedures in place to handle them. Just be honest in your responses and keep good records!