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This is such a common situation and you're smart to ask before selling! One thing I didn't see mentioned yet is that if you're selling personal-use property (like art you inherited for your home rather than as an investment), any losses generally aren't deductible. But gains are still taxable, so it's kind of a "heads they win, tails you lose" situation with the IRS. Also, since you mentioned these are from your grandfather who passed last year, make sure you have the estate paperwork handy. Sometimes the executor or personal representative had the items appraised as part of settling the estate, and those appraisals can serve as your stepped-up basis documentation. It's worth checking with whoever handled the estate to see if any formal valuations were done. If you do end up needing to establish values and don't want to pay for formal appraisals on lower-value pieces, try looking up recent "sold" listings (not just asking prices) on eBay, auction sites, or art databases for similar works. The IRS accepts reasonable market research as support for your basis, especially for items under a few thousand dollars.

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Gianna Scott

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This is really excellent advice about checking with the estate executor! I hadn't thought about that possibility. Quick question - if the estate did have some items appraised but not all of them, and I inherited pieces that weren't specifically appraised, can I use the appraised items as a reference point for valuing similar pieces? For example, if they had one painting by a local artist appraised at $800, and I have another similar-sized painting by the same artist, would that help establish a reasonable basis for the second piece? Also, that point about personal-use property losses not being deductible is something I definitely didn't know - good to keep in mind since some of these pieces might actually be worth less than when I inherited them.

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Ava Martinez

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@Gianna Scott That s'a really smart approach to use appraised pieces as reference points! The IRS does accept comparative valuations, especially when you can show similar characteristics - same artist, similar size, comparable age/condition, etc. Just document your reasoning clearly like (Estate "appraisal valued similar Smith painting at $800, this piece is comparable size and condition .")You ll'want to be conservative though - if there are differences that might affect value different (subject matter, condition issues, etc. ,)factor those in. Keep records of your comparative analysis in case you re'ever questioned. And yes, that personal-use property rule can be frustrating! If you inherited art primarily for personal enjoyment rather than investment, any pieces that have declined in value won t'give you a tax loss when sold. But at least you mentioned most of yours have gone up 10-15%, so you re'probably looking at small gains rather than losses anyway. One more tip - if any pieces turn out to be more valuable than expected when you go to sell them, don t'panic about the higher tax bill. You can always get a retroactive appraisal to support a higher stepped-up basis if needed.

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I've been through a similar situation with inherited artwork, and there are a few practical details that might help beyond what's already been covered. One thing I learned the hard way is to take high-quality photos of each piece before you sell them - not just for listing purposes, but for your tax records. If the IRS ever questions your basis or the condition of the items at time of inheritance, having detailed photos can be incredibly valuable documentation. Also, since you mentioned you're selling to cover expenses, consider whether you actually need to sell all the pieces at once. If the total gains push you into a higher tax bracket or trigger additional taxes (like the Net Investment Income Tax), it might be worth spreading sales across 2024 and 2025 to manage your overall tax impact. One last tip - if any of your pieces turn out to be more valuable than you initially thought when you start getting offers, don't be afraid to pause and get a proper appraisal. I almost sold a piece for $2,000 that turned out to be worth $8,000 after I had it properly evaluated. The appraisal cost was definitely worth it in that case!

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Miguel Diaz

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This is such great practical advice! The photography tip is brilliant - I never would have thought about documenting condition for tax purposes, but that makes total sense if you ever need to justify your stepped-up basis later. Your point about spreading sales across tax years is really smart too. I'm actually in a situation where I might be close to the next tax bracket this year anyway, so timing could make a real difference. Do you happen to know if there's a specific income threshold where the Net Investment Income Tax kicks in? I want to make sure I'm not accidentally triggering additional taxes I wasn't expecting. And wow, that's an amazing catch on the $8,000 piece! That really drives home the point about not rushing into sales. I'm definitely going to be more cautious now about getting second opinions on anything that seems like it might be more valuable than I initially thought.

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I think everyone is overcomplicating this. If you're just selling a few items each month for a total of under $100 profit, the IRS honestly has bigger fish to fry. Millions of people have garage sales or sell used items without reporting every penny. As long as you're not making thousands or consistently growing this into a business, I wouldn't stress about it.

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Olivia Kay

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This is terrible advice. The law doesn't have a "the IRS has bigger fish to fry" exemption. Just because you might not get caught doesn't mean it's legal to skip reporting income. OP should follow the actual tax laws.

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Eve Freeman

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I appreciate everyone's detailed responses here! As someone who's been through this exact situation, I want to emphasize that even small amounts of income should be reported - it's not worth the risk of penalties later. The key distinction between hobby vs. business that Aliyah mentioned is crucial. Since you're actively buying items with the intent to resell for profit and doing this consistently each month, you're likely operating as a small business even without formal licensing. The IRS looks at your intent and activities, not just the dollar amounts. My recommendation would be to start treating this as a business now: keep detailed records of what you buy, sell, and any expenses (gas for thrift store trips, packaging materials, etc.). File Schedule C and take advantage of legitimate business deductions. Even at your current scale, proper record-keeping will save you headaches and potentially money on your taxes. Also, be aware that if you're selling through any online platforms, you might hit that $600 1099-K threshold sooner than you think when you factor in shipping costs that buyers pay you. Better to be prepared and compliant from the start!

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Zara Shah

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This is really helpful advice, Eve! I'm actually in a similar situation - just started reselling some items I find at estate sales. The record keeping part seems overwhelming though. Do you have any recommendations for simple ways to track everything? Like, should I be taking photos of receipts, using spreadsheets, or is there some app that makes this easier? I'm worried I'll mess up the bookkeeping and get in trouble later.

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StarStrider

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Great question about EPD! You're actually thinking about this correctly - the $65 in distributions you received likely aren't immediately taxable because they're classified as a return of capital that reduces your tax basis in the partnership. Here's what's happening: EPD typically generates significant depreciation and depletion deductions that flow through to partners, which is why your K-1 shows negative income. The distributions exceed your allocated share of taxable income, so the excess reduces your basis rather than creating a current tax liability. The key things to track going forward: 1. Your original purchase price (basis) 2. Each year's distributions (these reduce basis) 3. Any income/loss allocations from the K-1 4. Your adjusted basis = original basis - cumulative distributions + cumulative income allocations You'll need this information when you eventually sell to calculate your capital gain/loss. Also keep in mind that any suspended passive losses from the partnership can typically be used to offset gains when you dispose of your entire interest in EPD. So yes, you're being appropriately optimistic - no immediate tax liability for 2023 from your EPD investment!

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Amy Fleming

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This is exactly the kind of clear explanation I was hoping for! Thank you for breaking down the basis tracking - I hadn't realized I needed to keep such detailed records of the cumulative distributions and income allocations. One quick clarification: when you mention "suspended passive losses," does this mean if I have other passive income in future years (like rental property income), I could potentially use the EPD losses against that? Or do the suspended losses only become usable when I sell the entire EPD position? Also, is there a specific form I should be keeping track of this basis information on, or is a simple spreadsheet sufficient for now?

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Great questions! For suspended passive losses, you have two potential ways to use them: 1. **Against other passive income**: Yes, if you have rental property income or income from other passive activities in future years, you can use your suspended EPD losses to offset that passive income on an annual basis. 2. **Upon disposition**: When you sell your entire EPD position, any remaining suspended losses become fully deductible against any type of income (not just passive), which can be quite valuable. Regarding record-keeping, a simple spreadsheet is absolutely sufficient for now. The IRS doesn't require a specific form for tracking basis - you just need to maintain accurate records. I'd suggest columns for: - Date - Transaction type (purchase/distribution/K-1 income or loss) - Amount - Running basis balance Many investors also keep a separate tab tracking suspended losses by year. Just make sure to keep all your K-1s and brokerage statements as supporting documentation. When you eventually sell, you'll report the final gain/loss calculation on Schedule D, but the detailed tracking can be done however works best for you organizationally.

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As someone who's dealt with EPD and other MLPs for several years, I wanted to add a few practical tips that might help you going forward: First, EPD typically sends out their K-1s quite late in tax season (often March), so plan accordingly if you're eager to file early. Second, consider setting up a simple tracking system now - I use a basic Excel sheet with tabs for each MLP I own, tracking original basis, annual distributions, and K-1 income/losses. One thing that caught me off guard initially was that even though you're not paying tax on the distributions now, you'll want to consider the tax implications when you do eventually sell. Since your basis keeps getting reduced by the distributions, you might end up with a larger capital gain than you initially expect. Also, if you're planning to buy more EPD shares, be aware that additional purchases will have their own basis tracking requirements. Each lot purchased will have its own cost basis that gets reduced by the proportional share of distributions. The good news is that EPD has been pretty consistent with their distribution policy, so the tax treatment should remain fairly predictable year over year. Just keep good records and you'll be fine!

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This is really helpful advice! I'm curious about your comment regarding additional EPD purchases - if I buy more shares throughout the year at different prices, how exactly does the proportional distribution tracking work? Do I need to calculate what percentage of my total holdings each purchase represents and then allocate distributions accordingly? Also, you mentioned EPD sends K-1s out late - is there any way to estimate what my tax situation will be before the K-1 arrives, or do I just have to wait? I'm trying to do some preliminary tax planning and it would be nice to have at least a rough idea of whether I'll have taxable income or more basis reduction.

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Harmony Love

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Don't forget to check if you qualify for any tax treaty benefits! The high-tax kickout rules still apply, but sometimes tax treaties between the US and the foreign country have special provisions about how certain types of income are categorized or credited. For example, I have income from Canada and the US-Canada tax treaty has specific rules about pensions and social security that affected how I filled out my Form 1116. Might be worth looking into depending on which country your foreign income is coming from.

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Rudy Cenizo

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This is great advice. I had income from the UK last year and the US-UK tax treaty saved me tons on my foreign tax credit calculation. One question though - if the tax treaty gives special treatment to certain income, does that happen before or after you apply the high-tax kickout rules?

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Just wanted to share my experience after dealing with a similar high-tax kickout situation last year. The key thing that helped me was creating a simple spreadsheet to track each source of foreign income separately before even touching Form 1116. I listed each type of income (interest, dividends, capital gains, etc.), the country it came from, the foreign tax paid, and calculated the effective foreign tax rate for each. This made it crystal clear which items needed to be "kicked out" to general category vs staying in passive. One thing I learned the hard way - make sure you're calculating the effective rate correctly. Don't just look at the statutory tax rate of the foreign country. You need to divide the actual foreign tax YOU paid by the actual foreign income YOU received. Sometimes withholding taxes, tax credits in the foreign country, or other adjustments can make your effective rate different from what you'd expect. Also, keep really good records of your calculations because if the IRS questions your categorization later, you'll want to be able to show exactly how you determined which income belonged in which category.

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Luca Bianchi

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This spreadsheet approach is brilliant! I wish I had thought of this before diving into the forms. Quick question - when you're calculating that effective rate, do you include ALL foreign taxes paid on that income or just the income tax portion? For example, if I paid both income tax and some kind of foreign capital gains surtax, do both get included in the numerator when calculating the effective rate?

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One thing to watch out for that I learned the hard way: if your child's interest income is above $1,150 (for 2023 tax year), it might be subject to the "kiddie tax" which applies your tax rate to their unearned income above that threshold. In my case, my daughter had a larger CD that matured last year with about $2,000 in interest, and I ended up having to pay tax at my higher rate on the amount over the threshold. Just something to keep in mind if your children's CDs are larger!

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Felicity Bud

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Thanks for bringing this up! Fortunately, each of my kids' CDs only generated about $45 in interest last year, so I think I'm well under that threshold. Is there any specific section in FreeTaxUSA where it would warn me about this "kiddie tax" if it applied?

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The software should automatically calculate the kiddie tax if applicable when you enter the information in the Form 8814 section. In FreeTaxUSA, it will show up in your tax calculation summary if it applies to your situation. Since your amounts are only about $45 each, you definitely won't have to worry about it this year. The software would flag it if your children's unearned income was approaching the threshold.

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Kayla Morgan

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Just a quick tip from a former bank employee: make sure the SSNs on the 1099-INT forms match your children's Social Security cards exactly. Sometimes banks make errors, especially with children's accounts that might have been set up as custodial accounts. I've seen cases where the parent's SSN accidentally got associated with the child's account, which creates a real headache when tax forms are generated. Might be worth double-checking before you file!

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James Maki

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This happened to us! The bank accidentally put my SSN on my son's 1099-INT form instead of his. How do we fix this if we spot an error? Do we need to contact the bank first or can we just correct it on the tax form?

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Mateo Warren

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You absolutely need to contact the bank first to get a corrected 1099-INT form issued. The IRS matches the SSN on tax forms with what's reported by the issuing institution, so if there's a mismatch, it can trigger correspondence or delays in processing your return. Call your bank's customer service and explain the error - they should be able to issue a corrected 1099-INT (sometimes called a 1099-INT-C) with the right SSN. Don't just manually correct it on your tax return because that creates a discrepancy in the IRS system. Most banks can turn around corrected forms pretty quickly, especially for simple SSN errors like this.

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