I made the switch from TurboTax to FreeTaxUSA two years ago for exactly this reason - they were trying to charge me $59 just for having an HSA! FreeTaxUSA has been fantastic and completely legitimate. The interface is definitely more no-frills compared to TurboTax's flashy design, but it walks you through everything you need and includes all the necessary forms in their free version. I actually prefer it now because there's no constant pestering to upgrade or buy additional services. One thing I really appreciate is their transparent pricing - what you see is what you get. No surprise fees at the end. The $15 state filing fee (if you need it) is clearly stated upfront, unlike TurboTax's habit of revealing costs at the last minute. Your tax situation sounds perfect for FreeTaxUSA's free tier. With just W-2 income, standard deduction, and an HSA, you'll have everything you need without paying a dime for federal filing. I've recommended it to several friends in similar situations and they've all been happy with the switch.

FreeTaxUSA is absolutely legit! I switched from TurboTax last year for the exact same reason - they wanted to charge me $59 just because I had an HSA contribution to report. It felt like such a scam since my taxes are otherwise super simple. I was nervous about making the switch too, but FreeTaxUSA handled my HSA form (8889) perfectly in their free tier. The interface is definitely less polished than TurboTax, but honestly that was kind of refreshing? No constant pop-ups trying to sell me additional services or "maximize my refund" for extra fees. The only real downside is that you'll need to manually enter your info the first year since they can't import from TurboTax, but it's worth the one-time hassle to escape their predatory pricing model. I ended up getting the exact same refund amount and saved myself $59 in the process. Will definitely be using FreeTaxUSA again this year!

Has anyone used tax loss harvesting to offset gains from something like this? I've heard you can sell other investments at a loss to balance things out tax-wise.

This is a tough situation, but you're not alone - these kinds of app-triggered sales happen more often than you'd think. Unfortunately, as others have mentioned, you're still on the hook for the taxes even though it was accidental. Here's what I'd recommend doing immediately: 1. Document everything - screenshot the app settings, save any emails or notifications about the sale, and keep records of your original intent. While this won't help with taxes, it might be useful if you decide to file a complaint with the app provider. 2. Calculate your potential tax liability now so you can plan accordingly. If you have significant gains, you might want to set aside money for the tax bill. 3. Look for any loss positions in your portfolio that you could harvest before year-end to offset these gains. 4. Consider whether you want to repurchase immediately or wait to avoid potential wash sale complications if you have any loss positions. The silver lining is that when you do rebuy, your new cost basis will be the current purchase price, which could work in your favor if the stocks continue to appreciate long-term. It's an expensive lesson about reading the fine print on investment apps, but you'll get through this!

I'm dealing with a very similar situation right now - got the JH advance and just found out about an offset for my spouse's old student loans. Reading through all these responses has been incredibly helpful and reassuring. It sounds like the consensus is pretty clear: Republic Bank gets paid back first, then the offset happens, then whatever's left goes to you via your chosen method. What I'm still wondering about is the timing. Some people mentioned 2-3 weeks, others said longer. Has anyone experienced delays specifically because of the offset, or does it generally process within the normal timeframe? Also, for those who went through this - did you get any kind of documentation or breakdown showing exactly how your refund was distributed between Republic, the offset, and your final amount? I like to keep detailed records and want to make sure I understand exactly what happened when it's all said and done. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this is exactly the kind of real-world info that's impossible to find in the official documentation!

I just went through this exact situation a few months ago! The good news is that the process is pretty straightforward once you understand the order. Your refund will go to Republic Bank first to pay back the advance, then Treasury will take their offset portion for the student loans, and finally any remainder gets sent to you using whatever method you originally selected (sounds like direct deposit in your case). In my situation, I had a $3,800 refund, took a $1,500 JH advance, had a $1,900 offset for my husband's student loans, and ended up receiving $400 via direct deposit about 3 weeks after my return was accepted. The whole thing was nerve-wracking while waiting, but it all worked out exactly as described by others here. One thing that really helped ease my anxiety was calling the Treasury Offset Program at 1-800-304-3107 to get the exact offset amount beforehand. That way I could do the math and know approximately what to expect. Also, if you haven't already, you might want to check if you qualify for injured spouse relief for future years - it could protect your portion of joint refunds from being offset for debts that are solely your spouse's responsibility. The key thing to remember is that Republic Bank has first priority since the advance is essentially a secured loan against your refund. The offset doesn't interfere with their ability to get paid back - it just reduces what's left over for you. Hope this helps put your mind at ease!

As a newcomer to this community, I have to say this thread has been incredibly educational! The complexity of Roth 401k early withdrawals is way beyond what I initially understood. @Giovanni Mancini - after reading all these expert responses, it's clear you have several potentially viable paths, but the devil is really in the details of your specific plan. The pro-rata rule is definitely going to be your biggest challenge, but the rollover strategy that @Connor O'Neill successfully used could be a game-changer if your employer allows in-service distributions. What I find most valuable about this discussion is how it highlights the importance of understanding your specific plan's provisions rather than relying on general rules. The fact that some plans have unique hardship provisions, different loan structures, or special rollover options really emphasizes why that first call to your plan administrator is so critical. Given the substantial amount you need ($120K) and the potential tax implications with the pro-rata rule, I'd strongly echo the advice about getting professional guidance. The staged approach combining a loan with a strategic rollover seems like it could minimize your tax hit significantly, but the timing and execution details will be crucial. Have you been able to reach out to your plan administrator yet to start gathering the specific information about your plan's options? That seems like the logical first step before you can evaluate which of these strategies might work best for your situation.

As someone new to this community and retirement planning in general, I'm amazed by the depth of expertise shared in this thread! The complexity of Roth 401k early withdrawals is far more nuanced than I ever realized. @Giovanni Mancini - your situation really highlights a critical gap in most people's understanding of retirement accounts. Like many others, I assumed Roth 401k withdrawals worked similarly to Roth IRAs, but the pro-rata rule completely changes the equation for early access. What I find most compelling about the advice here is the emphasis on plan-specific provisions. The rollover strategy that @Connor O'Neill successfully executed could potentially save you tens of thousands in taxes and penalties, but it all depends on whether your employer allows in-service distributions. Similarly, the hardship exceptions and loan provisions vary significantly between plans. Given that you need $120K - a substantial sum - I'd strongly recommend the staged approach several experts mentioned: start with a plan loan for immediate needs (if available), then explore the rollover option for the remainder. This gives you time to properly structure the tax-advantaged withdrawal without rushing into the pro-rata trap. The key insight from this thread is that your first call should be to your plan administrator with a comprehensive list of questions about loans, rollovers, hardship provisions, and your exact contribution/earnings breakdown. Only then can you evaluate which combination of strategies will minimize your tax burden. Professional guidance seems essential here - the potential tax savings on a $120K withdrawal could easily justify consultation fees many times over.

Quick question - I paid for my spring 2025 semester tuition in December 2024. Do I claim that on my 2024 taxes (filing now in 2025) or on next year's taxes? My 1098-T is confusing me because the amounts don't match what I actually paid during the calendar year.

One thing that helped me a lot when dealing with my 1098-T was understanding that you don't have to use the amounts exactly as shown on the form. The IRS allows you to use either the amounts on the 1098-T OR your actual payment records, whichever is more accurate for your situation. In my case, my school's 1098-T showed different amounts than what I actually paid because of timing differences with financial aid disbursements. I kept all my tuition payment receipts and was able to use those actual amounts instead. This is especially important if you made payments across different tax years or if your school's accounting doesn't match your payment schedule. Also, don't forget that you can claim required course materials even if you bought them from Amazon or other retailers - just make sure you can prove they were required for your courses. I saved all my course syllabi that listed required textbooks and supplies, which helped justify those expenses.