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Can I defer receiving my paycheck until January 2024 to reduce this year's taxable income?

I currently work full-time for Company X, but I've just received an offer for a part-time position at Company Y. I'm trying to be strategic about my income for tax purposes and wondering if it's legal to work for Company Y during October-December 2023 but not actually receive payment until January 2024. Here's why I want to keep my 2023 taxable income lower: 1. My income-driven repayment plan for student loans recalculates in September 2024 based on my 2023 taxes, and I'd like to keep those payments manageable (though I'll likely switch plans by 2025 since I probably won't have enough remaining for PSLF anyway) 2. I'm hoping to qualify for some of those Inflation Reduction Act rebates, but I'll lose eligibility if I go over 150% of my county's median income 3. I just bought a house and want to maximize those non-refundable energy efficiency tax credits next year by shifting more tax burden to 2024 4. After working at Company Y for about 3 months, I'll have a better idea of my regular hours and can plan appropriate withholding (I'm in the 24% federal and 9% state brackets) Company Y is fine with officially starting my employment on 1/1/24 for their payroll purposes. We have a great relationship - I've done about $45,000 worth of contract work for them over the years, so I completely trust them to pay me as agreed in January. I just want to make sure we're not doing anything illegal or committing any kind of tax fraud. Any advice from the tax pros here? Are there any issues with this approach?

Don't forget about state tax implications! Depending on your state, they might have different rules about when income is considered "received" for tax purposes. I tried something similar in California and they were much stricter about the constructive receipt doctrine than the IRS was. They determined that since I had provided the services in 2023, I should have reported the income then, even though I didn't get paid until 2024. Always check your state tax rules too!

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Good point about state taxes. I live in Washington state with no income tax but work remotely for a New York company. Would NY state tax rules apply in this case or does it depend on where I physically perform the work?

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Be very careful with this strategy - while it can work legally, the IRS scrutinizes income deferral arrangements closely. The key test is whether you have "constructive receipt" of the income in 2023. For your arrangement to pass IRS scrutiny, you need: 1. A formal written agreement stating your employment begins January 1, 2024 2. Clear documentation that you have NO legal right to demand payment in 2023 3. The employer's payroll system should not even have you as an employee until 2024 However, there's a potential red flag in your situation: you mention doing actual work for Company Y in October-December 2023. If the IRS views this as earned compensation that you're artificially deferring, they could challenge the arrangement. The safer approach would be to structure any 2023 activities as unpaid training or onboarding rather than compensable work. Also consider: - Document legitimate business reasons for the January start date (not just tax avoidance) - Ensure Company Y doesn't accrue the expense in 2023 on their books - Keep records of all agreements and communications Given the complexity and your multiple tax goals (student loans, IRA rebates, energy credits), I'd strongly recommend getting professional tax advice before proceeding. The potential savings need to be weighed against audit risk and penalties if the IRS disagrees with your position.

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IRS Direct Pay System Won't Process My Tax Payment - What Options Do I Have?

I'm seriously frustrated right now and hoping someone can help. I've tried to use the IRS Direct Pay system at least four times in the last week to pay my outstanding tax balance, but each attempt fails. After I submit my payment details, I get an email a few hours later saying my payment couldn't be processed. The emails don't give any specific reason why it failed - just that generic "unable to process your payment" message. My bank account has sufficient funds, I've double-checked all my personal information, and I've tried using both my checking and savings accounts. Nothing works! My payment deadline is coming up next week, and I'm getting worried about late payment penalties. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there something wrong with the IRS payment system right now? What other payment options should I try? I really don't want to mail a check if I can avoid it since I've heard mail processing is taking forever.

I've been dealing with IRS payment issues for years in my tax prep business, and what you're experiencing is unfortunately pretty common. The Direct Pay system is notorious for these vague rejection messages. Here are a few things to check that often cause silent failures: 1. **Browser compatibility** - Try using Internet Explorer or Edge if you're on Windows, or Safari if you're on Mac. Chrome and Firefox sometimes have issues with the IRS payment portal. 2. **Account ownership** - Make sure the name on your bank account matches EXACTLY how it appears on your tax return, including middle initials, suffixes, etc. 3. **Previous payment attempts** - If you've tried multiple times, there might be a temporary lock on your account. Wait 24-48 hours before trying again. 4. **Account type restrictions** - Some credit unions and online-only banks have issues with ACH transfers to government agencies. If none of these work, I'd strongly recommend calling the IRS practitioner priority line (if you can get someone to represent you) or trying the payment by phone option at 1-888-PAY-1040. There's a small fee, but it's processed immediately and you get confirmation. Don't stress too much about being a few days late - the failure-to-pay penalty is only 0.5% per month, so even if you're a week late, it's minimal compared to the headache you're dealing with.

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The phone payment fee through 1-888-PAY-1040 is typically around $3.95 for bank transfers (ACH), which is much more reasonable than the credit card processing fees that can run 2%+ of your payment amount. Given how much time you've already spent troubleshooting this, that small fee is definitely worth it for the immediate confirmation and peace of mind. I'd also suggest trying the Edge browser first since it's free and might solve your problem without any fees. But if you're still hitting walls after trying the browser switch and double-checking your account name formatting, the phone payment option is your most reliable backup plan. One other tip - if you do end up calling, have your bank account and routing number ready, plus your SSN and the exact amount you want to pay. The automated system is pretty straightforward once you get connected.

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The phone payment fee at 1-888-PAY-1040 is $3.99 for bank transfers (ACH) and around 1.87-1.99% for credit/debit cards with a minimum of about $2.50. So for most tax payments, you're looking at under $5 if you use your bank account. Given that you've already spent hours trying to get Direct Pay to work, that small fee is definitely worth it for the immediate confirmation and peace of mind. Plus, you get a confirmation number right away that you can reference if there are any questions later. I'd also add to Gabriel's excellent advice - if you do try the browser switch, make sure to clear your cache and cookies first, or better yet, use a private/incognito window. The IRS payment system sometimes gets confused by stored form data from previous attempts. One more tip: if you're still getting rejections after trying these fixes, check if your bank account has any recent changes - even something like a new debit card number can sometimes affect ACH processing, even though it shouldn't.

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I've been following this thread and wanted to share another option that might help - you can also make payments through the IRS's official payment partners like Pay1040.com or Official Payments Corporation. These are third-party processors that the IRS has authorized, and they sometimes work when Direct Pay doesn't. The fees are similar to what others have mentioned (around 1.87-1.99% for cards, $3.99 for bank transfers), but they tend to be more reliable than the Direct Pay system. I used Pay1040.com last year when I was having similar issues and it processed immediately with a confirmation email. Another quick tip - if you're really stuck and worried about penalties, you can always make an estimated payment that covers most of what you owe now, then make a smaller follow-up payment later once you get the system issues sorted out. The IRS penalty is calculated on the unpaid balance, so even a partial payment can significantly reduce any potential penalties while you work out the technical problems. Don't let the system frustrations stress you out too much - there are definitely ways to get this resolved before your deadline!

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This is really helpful information about the authorized payment partners! I hadn't even thought about using third-party processors that the IRS officially recognizes. It makes sense that they might have better infrastructure and reliability than the government's own Direct Pay system. Your suggestion about making a partial payment to reduce potential penalties is brilliant - I wish I had thought of that earlier. Even if I can only pay 80-90% of what I owe right now, that would dramatically reduce any penalty calculation while I sort out the remaining technical issues. Do you happen to know if there are any differences between Pay1040.com and Official Payments Corporation in terms of processing speed or fees? I want to make sure I'm choosing the most reliable option since I'm cutting it pretty close to my deadline. Thanks for following along with this thread and adding such practical advice. It's amazing how many different solutions people have shared - really shows how common this problem is!

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I've used both Pay1040.com and Official Payments Corporation, and honestly they're pretty comparable in terms of processing speed - both process immediately and send confirmation emails within minutes. The main difference I noticed is that Official Payments Corporation (now called ACI Payments) has a slightly cleaner interface and sometimes offers promotional periods with reduced fees, but Pay1040.com tends to have more payment options (they accept more types of prepaid cards if that matters to you). Both are rock-solid reliable compared to Direct Pay. I'd probably go with whichever one has the lower fee when you check, since they're both equally fast and trustworthy. Your partial payment strategy is really smart - even paying 75% now would cut your penalty to almost nothing while you figure out the rest. The IRS really just cares about getting paid, and they're pretty reasonable about technical difficulties if you show good faith effort to pay what you owe.

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How do I claim rental income on my taxes when I also live in the home as owner-occupant?

I purchased my first house in late 2023 and started renting out one bedroom in January 2024. I know I need to claim this rental income on my taxes, but I'm super confused about what deductions I can take since I also live there. The total rent I collected was $12,500 for all of 2024. My monthly mortgage payment is about $2,900. I think these are the deductions I can take: -Mortgage interest: the room I rent out is roughly 12% of my house's total square footage. My mortgage interest was around $18,300 for the year, so can I deduct $2,196? -HOA fees (covers landscaping and exterior maintenance) are $250/month, totaling $3,000 for the year. -Depreciation is confusing me the most - would love any advice here! -I cover gas and water bills, but my tenant and I split electricity and internet. -Paid $3,500 in property taxes last year -Homeowner's insurance was $1,950 -Since the house is pretty new, I didn't have many repairs, but I'm wondering what else I can deduct? Any guidance would be so helpful! First time dealing with this on my taxes.

Did anyone mention the $25,000 passive activity loss allowance yet? If your adjusted gross income is under $100,000, you can deduct up to $25,000 in rental losses against your other income if you actively participate in rental management (which you obviously do since you live there). This is super important because with all those deductions plus depreciation, you might actually show a paper loss on your rental activity even though you received cash income!

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I thought that only applied if you rent out the entire property? Does it still work if you're just renting a room and living there too?

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Yes, the $25,000 passive activity loss allowance absolutely applies to room rentals in your primary residence! As long as you actively participate (which you clearly do since you live there and manage the rental), you can use this allowance. The key is "active participation" - you make management decisions like setting rent, approving tenants, arranging repairs, etc. Living in the property and renting out just a room actually makes it easier to qualify for active participation compared to remote rental properties. So if your rental deductions (including depreciation) exceed your $12,500 rental income, creating a loss, you can potentially deduct that loss against your W-2 or other income, subject to the income limits Javier mentioned.

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I'm dealing with a very similar situation - just started renting out a bedroom in my house this year! One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is keeping detailed records of your tenant screening and advertising costs. Those are 100% deductible business expenses. Also, for the depreciation calculation that's confusing you - you'll need your home's purchase price minus the land value. If your closing documents don't break this down clearly, you can often find the land-to-building ratio on your county assessor's website or property tax records. Quick tip: Since you mentioned splitting electricity with your tenant, make sure you're tracking this consistently. I keep a simple spreadsheet each month showing the total bill, what my tenant pays me, and what I actually pay out of pocket. This makes the tax calculations much cleaner. The 12% calculation you're using sounds right for deductions, but remember that percentage will be crucial for depreciation too - you can only depreciate the rental portion of the home's value over 27.5 years. Good luck with your first year of rental income taxes!

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@9e3437d1e30b Yes, absolutely! Background check fees, credit report costs, and application processing fees are all 100% deductible as rental business expenses. I actually keep a separate category in my records called "tenant screening" for all these costs. For my utility tracking spreadsheet, I keep it pretty simple with these columns: Date, Utility Type (electric/gas/water), Total Bill Amount, Tenant Payment to Me, My Net Cost, and Notes. The "Notes" column is helpful for things like "tenant was away for 2 weeks" or "high usage month due to AC repair" - just in case I ever need to explain unusual patterns. And yes, advertising costs definitely include paid listings on rental websites like Zillow, Apartments.com, Craigslist (if they charge for premium listings), Facebook Marketplace ads, etc. Basically any money you spend to advertise your rental space is deductible. I even deduct the cost of professional photos I had taken for my listing since that was specifically for rental marketing purposes. One tip: if you use your personal phone for tenant calls, you can deduct the business portion of your phone bill too, though you'll need to estimate what percentage of your usage is rental-related.

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Yes, background check fees and credit report costs are absolutely deductible! Those fall under tenant screening expenses. I also deduct application processing fees if I use any rental platforms that charge for those services. For my utility spreadsheet, I keep it simple with just four columns: Date, Total Bill Amount, Tenant Payment to Me, My Net Cost. At the end of the year, I sum up the "My Net Cost" column and apply the 12% (or whatever your percentage is) to that total for my deduction. And yes, paid listings on rental websites like Zillow Rental Manager, Apartments.com, or even Facebook Marketplace boosted posts are all deductible advertising expenses! Pretty much any cost you incur to find and screen tenants counts as a legitimate business expense. Just keep those receipts and confirmation emails. The key is that these screening and advertising costs are 100% deductible (not subject to the percentage limitation like your other house expenses) since they're directly and exclusively related to the rental activity.

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IRS Refund Date Showing 3/19 on Direct Deposit? Anyone Else?

I checked my transcript this morning and noticed my tax refund is scheduled for direct deposit on March 19th. Has anyone else got this date? Just wondering if its actually going to come through on that day or if I'll see it earlier. I've heard some people get their refunds a day or two before the official date on their transcript. Any advice appreciated!

My transcript has shown 3/26 for almost two weeks now. So frustrating just waiting and waiting. Why can't they just process these things faster??? ๐Ÿ˜ 

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Same here! My transcript updated this morning showing 3/19 as well. From what I've experienced in past years, you'll likely see it either exactly on that date or 1-2 days early depending on your bank. Credit unions and online banks like Chime tend to post earlier, while traditional big banks usually stick closer to the official date. I'm hoping we both see it by the weekend!

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Startup Founder Confused About Stock Shares and 83(b) Election for Tax Filing

I started a tech startup with two other co-founders and we incorporated earlier this year (2024). According to our founders agreement, I received 700K shares in the company - some vested immediately at incorporation and the rest vest gradually over the next few years. In our founding documents, the par value was set at .0001 per share, but we actually purchased our shares at .001 each. So I wrote a check to the company for $700 (.001 x 700,000 shares). Our lawyers also filed an 83(b) election with the IRS. I'm honestly completely lost about how to handle this for tax purposes. Technically, I paid $700 for something with a par value of $70 (.0001 x 700,000). How exactly do I report this on my 2024 taxes? Do I need to report anything since we filed the 83(b) election? Is there some form I need to fill out? Any guidance would be super appreciated - first time founder and I'm already drowning in paperwork!

Small thing to add: keep track of ANY additional investments you make in the company. If you participate in future funding rounds or make loans to the company that convert to equity, all of those increase your basis. I've seen founders leave money on the table by not properly documenting these additional investments. Keep every check copy, wire confirmation, transaction record in a separate tax folder. Also document any "sweat equity" arrangements where you take reduced salary in exchange for more equity. This documentation will be gold when you eventually have an exit.

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This is good advice! Our company is considering a friends and family round soon. If I invest additional personal funds beyond my founder shares, I'm guessing I should keep those records separate?

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Absolutely keep those records separate. Each investment should be documented individually with its own set of paperwork. For a friends and family round, you'll likely receive different class shares than your founder stock, possibly with different rights and preferences. Make sure you get proper documentation for each investment showing the amount, date, number of shares, and share class. This establishes different basis amounts for different blocks of shares. Also, investments beyond your initial founder shares won't be subject to the 83(b) election you already filed - they'll have their own tax treatment depending on the structure of the round.

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One thing that might help ease your mind: the IRS has specific guidance on this exact situation in Publication 525. Since you paid $700 for shares with a par value of $70, and this was at company formation when fair market value was likely minimal, you've essentially paid above fair market value. This means there's no "bargain element" to report as income. The 83(b) election protects you from future taxation as your shares vest - without it, you'd owe ordinary income tax on each vesting tranche based on the company's value at that time. Since you made the election and paid fair market value upfront, you're in good shape. For your 2024 return, just keep your documentation organized: the 83(b) election filing proof, your $700 payment record, and the stock purchase agreement. Most tax software won't even prompt you for this information since there's no taxable event to report. The real benefit comes later when you sell - everything above your $700 basis will be capital gains instead of ordinary income.

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