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Ask the community...

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Payton Black

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One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is checking if your employer has a dedicated payroll helpline or employee services number. Many companies have these separate from HR, and the payroll staff usually know all the Box 14 codes inside and out since they set them up in the system. I had a similar issue a couple years ago and called the payroll department directly. The person I spoke with not only explained what my specific code meant (it was for parking deductions that were being handled pre-tax), but also sent me a quick reference sheet with all the codes they use. She mentioned that Box 14 questions are super common during tax season, so they're usually prepared to help. If your company is too small to have a separate payroll department, try asking whoever processes payroll - even if it's just one person wearing multiple hats, they'll likely know what the codes represent since they have to enter them into the system each pay period.

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Joshua Wood

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This is such a practical suggestion! I never thought about calling payroll directly instead of HR. I just tried this with my company and you're absolutely right - the payroll person knew exactly what all the Box 14 codes meant and was super helpful. She explained that my code was for the company's wellness program reimbursements, which are tax-free up to a certain limit. She also mentioned that they get tons of calls about this every January and February, so they're definitely used to explaining these codes. Way easier than trying to decode everything myself or waiting for HR to get back to me. Thanks for the tip!

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Another helpful resource that I don't think has been mentioned is your state's tax website. Many states have specific guidance about Box 14 items that might be deductible or require special handling on your state return, even if they don't affect your federal taxes. For example, some states allow deductions for union dues, professional association fees, or certain insurance premiums that employers report in Box 14. Others have specific rules about how to handle transit benefits or parking allowances. I discovered this when I was confused about a "STD" code in my Box 14 (which turned out to be state disability insurance). My state's tax website had a whole section explaining how to handle these premiums as a potential itemized deduction. Would have never found this information just looking at federal tax resources. Your state's Department of Revenue or Treasury website usually has these guides in their individual taxpayer sections. Worth checking even if you think your Box 14 items are just informational!

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This is such great advice about checking state tax websites! I had no idea that states might have different rules for Box 14 items. I just checked my state's website and found that they actually have a specific section about W-2 codes that includes several Box 14 examples. Turns out the "LTDI" code on my W-2 is for long-term disability insurance premiums, and my state allows this as an itemized deduction if I don't take the standard deduction. This could actually save me some money on my state return! It's amazing how much useful information is out there if you know where to look. Thanks for pointing out this resource - definitely something I'll bookmark for future tax seasons.

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Dmitri Volkov

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Anybody know if OP should consider a Traditional IRA instead of Roth at this income level? With such low income wouldn't it be better to take the tax deduction now?

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At this income level, a Roth is almost definitely better. OP probably won't owe much federal income tax anyway with the standard deduction, so the traditional IRA deduction has minimal value. Plus they'd pay tax on withdrawals in retirement when their tax rate will likely be higher than it is now as a student.

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Great question! You're absolutely on the right track thinking about retirement savings at 19. Just to add some clarity to what others have mentioned - your Roth IRA contribution limit is based on your "earned income" which for self-employed folks like you is your net profit from Schedule C (after business expenses like mileage, but before the self-employment tax deduction). So if your net profit after all business deductions is $6,500, that's exactly what you can contribute to your Roth IRA. The fact that it matches the contribution limit perfectly is just a coincidence - you're not required to have "extra" income beyond what you contribute. One thing to double-check: make sure you're tracking your mileage accurately since that's usually the biggest deduction for delivery drivers. The IRS standard mileage rate for 2025 is 67 cents per mile, which can really add up with delivery work. Keep up the smart financial planning - starting retirement savings this early will pay off huge in the long run!

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ApolloJackson

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This is really helpful advice! I'm also just getting started with gig work and had no idea about tracking mileage properly. Do you need to track every single trip or just business miles? Like if I drive to get gas between deliveries, does that count as business mileage too?

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Just wanted to add that I had the exact same codes (971 and 570) last year when I filed in February. Like others mentioned, it was just a routine review - they were verifying my dependent information since I had claimed my nephew for the first time. The waiting is definitely the hardest part, but try to stay patient. One thing that helped me was setting up IRS2Go app notifications so I could check my transcript status without constantly logging into the website. Also, make sure your address is current with the IRS since they'll be mailing you that notice. In my case, the review took exactly 21 days from the 971 date, and then everything processed normally. The notice I received was pretty straightforward and just confirmed they had verified my information. Your situation sounds very routine based on what you've described!

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Thanks for mentioning the IRS2Go app! I didn't even know that existed - I've been manually logging into the website multiple times a day like a crazy person. Definitely downloading that right now. The 21-day timeline you mentioned aligns with what others have said, so that's really helpful for setting expectations. I'm feeling much more confident that this is just routine verification rather than something I need to panic about. Really appreciate everyone in this community sharing their experiences - makes dealing with IRS stuff so much less stressful when you know others have been through the same thing!

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Zara Shah

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I've been helping people with transcript codes for years, and the 971/570 combination you're seeing is honestly one of the most routine ones during tax season. The IRS is essentially saying "we got your return, we're taking a closer look at something, and we'll send you a letter explaining what." Since you filed in February and the 971 is dated 04-15-2024, you're right on schedule for a typical review. The cycle code 20240805 indicates normal processing, not an audit or major issue. Most likely scenarios: they're verifying your W-2 data matches what employers reported, double-checking any credits you claimed (especially if you have kids or claimed education credits), or confirming your filing status. The key thing is that 570 holds usually release automatically once their systems verify everything matches up. You'll see a 571 code appear when the hold lifts, followed by a refund date within a few days. Based on your timeline, I'd expect movement in the next 1-2 weeks. The notice you receive will be pretty basic - usually just confirmation that they reviewed and approved your return.

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Mei Lin

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I've been dealing with this exact situation and wanted to share what I learned from my research and talking to a tax professional. The key thing to understand is that there's a difference between selling personal items at a loss (which most garage sale items are) versus selling collectibles that have appreciated in value. For your garage sale items, if you're selling personal belongings for less than what you paid, there's generally no tax consequence. The IRS considers these personal losses, which aren't deductible but also aren't taxable income. For collectibles that have increased in value, you do need to report the gains. The tricky part about not having receipts is real, but the IRS allows "reasonable estimates" of your cost basis. You can research what similar items sold for when you originally bought them using price guides, auction records, or inflation calculators. One thing that surprised me: collectibles are taxed differently than stocks - they're subject to a maximum 28% rate rather than the lower long-term capital gains rates. So it's worth tracking these separately. As for whether the IRS will "come after you" for small amounts - while technically all income should be reported, enforcement resources are typically focused on larger discrepancies. That said, with new 1099-K reporting requirements lowering to $600 in 2025, there will be more paper trails for online sales.

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This is really helpful, thank you! I'm wondering about the "reasonable estimates" part - do you have any suggestions for how to document these estimates properly? Like if I research what similar baseball cards were selling for 10 years ago, should I be keeping screenshots or printing out the research? I want to make sure I'm doing this right in case I ever get audited.

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Great question about documentation! Yes, you should definitely keep records of your research. I'd recommend creating a simple spreadsheet with columns for: item description, sale date, sale price, estimated original purchase date, estimated original cost, and source of estimate. For the source documentation, screenshots are fine, but I'd also note the specific website, date you accessed it, and search terms used. For baseball cards specifically, sites like PSA CardFacts, Beckett, or even completed eBay listings from around your purchase timeframe can provide good evidence. You could also check old price guides or magazines from that era. The key is showing you made a good faith effort to estimate accurately. Even if your estimates aren't perfect, having documented research behind them shows the IRS you weren't just making up numbers. Keep everything in a folder (physical or digital) in case you need it later. One tip: err slightly on the conservative side with your estimates - it's better to report a bit more gain than to underestimate your basis and risk penalties if audited.

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Connor Byrne

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I went through this same headache last year with vintage comic books and old Magic cards I'd been collecting since high school. What really helped me was keeping it simple and focusing on the bigger picture. For garage sale stuff, honestly most of it you're probably selling at a loss anyway - that old furniture, random household items, clothes, etc. Those don't need to be reported since you're not making a profit. For the collectibles where you might have actual gains, I found that researching historical prices wasn't as hard as I expected. For baseball cards, the Beckett database goes back decades and you can usually find price ranges for different years. Same with vintage toys - there are collector sites that track values over time. The key thing I learned is that the IRS isn't expecting perfect records for stuff you bought years ago. They want to see that you made a reasonable, good faith effort to estimate your basis. I kept a simple Excel sheet with my research sources and called it a day. One practical tip: if you're selling online and getting close to that $600 threshold where you'll get a 1099-K, it might be worth organizing your records now rather than scrambling later. But for small cash sales at yard sales? The enforcement risk is pretty minimal for occasional sellers like us.

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This is exactly the kind of practical advice I needed! I've been overthinking this whole situation. You're right that most garage sale items are probably losses anyway - I was getting stressed about tracking every $5 sale when I'm probably selling that stuff for way less than I paid originally. For my collectibles, I like your approach of keeping it simple with just an Excel sheet. I've been putting this off because I thought I needed some complicated system, but documenting my research sources and making reasonable estimates sounds totally doable. Quick question - when you mention getting close to the $600 threshold for 1099-K, is that $600 total for the year across all platforms, or $600 per platform? I sell on both eBay and Facebook Marketplace occasionally and want to make sure I understand how that works.

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Why Are There Two Identical 570 Codes Dated 03-03-2025 With My $6,960 EIC Refund and 971 Notice?

I checked my transcript today and it updated on Friday showing an EIC of exactly -$7,060.00 with a date of 04-16-2025. I can literally see the line on my transcript that says: 768 Earned income credit 04-16-2025 -$7,060.00 What's making me really nervous is that I'm seeing two separate 570 codes (Additional account action pending) both dated 03-03-2025, plus a 971 Notice issued code also dated 03-03-2025. All three of these codes show $0.00 amounts. Here's exactly what my transcript shows: 570 Additional account action pending 03-03-2025 $0.00 570 Additional account action pending 03-03-2025 $0.00 971 Notice issued 03-03-2025 $0.00 Can someone help me understand what this combination of codes means for my refund? The fact that there are two 570 codes instead of just one is especially making me anxious. I've never seen duplicate 570 codes on the same date before. Does this mean my return is being reviewed twice or something? And what kind of notice would the 971 code be referring to? Should I expect something in the mail explaining the hold? I need help understanding what these "Additional account action pending" codes mean for my EIC and overall refund timing. Will I still get my Earned Income Credit on the date shown? Does having these pending actions mean my refund is definitely delayed? I was counting on this money and now I'm worried it's going to be held up for weeks or months.

Pedro Sawyer

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The two 570 codes with the same date is definitely unusual - I've been following tax stuff for years and typically see just one 570 when there's a hold. This could indicate your return triggered multiple review flags simultaneously. The 971 notice will be key to understanding what specific documentation they need. In my experience, EIC reviews with dependents usually focus on verifying custody/residency requirements. Check your mail daily and respond quickly to any IRS correspondence - that's the fastest way to get these holds released. The April date for your EIC suggests they're planning to process it, they just need to complete their verification first.

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Zara Perez

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I see you have dual 570 codes which is pretty rare - this usually happens when your return hits multiple verification checkpoints at once. With your EIC amount and the fact that you mentioned having 2 kids, the IRS is likely verifying both your income eligibility for EIC and your dependent qualifications. The 971 notice will spell out exactly what they need from you. Don't panic about the duplicate codes - I've seen this before with larger EIC claims and it doesn't necessarily mean there's a problem, just that they're being extra thorough. Keep checking your mail for that notice and respond promptly with whatever documentation they request. Your April 16th EIC date suggests they fully intend to process it once verification is complete.

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Zainab Yusuf

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This is super helpful - I didn't know dual 570s could happen when multiple verification systems kick in at once! Makes me feel better knowing it's not necessarily a red flag. Do you know if responding quickly to the 971 notice actually speeds things up or if they still take the full review time regardless?

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