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To clarify the TurboTax/Credit Karma relationship: Intuit (TurboTax's parent company) acquired Credit Karma in December 2020. As part of their integration strategy, they consolidated their financial product offerings. The refund advance program now exclusively operates through Credit Karma Money accounts. The advance is technically a 0% APR loan secured by your anticipated tax refund. Qualification criteria include: - Minimum expected federal refund of $500 - Sufficient credit score (typically 620+) - Identity verification - No outstanding tax liens or delinquencies Unlike some competitor products, no physical card is issued. The advance is deposited electronically to your Credit Karma Money account, typically within 24-48 hours of IRS acceptance of your return.
Just wanted to share my experience from this past tax season to help clear up some confusion. I used TurboTax's refund advance and can confirm everything mentioned about the Credit Karma integration is accurate. What I wish I'd known beforehand: ⢠The credit check is a "soft pull" so it won't hurt your credit score ⢠You can get advances of $250, $500, $750, $1,250, or $4,000 (based on expected refund) ⢠The virtual Credit Karma card works immediately for online purchases and can be added to Apple/Google Pay ⢠Bank transfers from Credit Karma Money to your regular account are free and typically take 1-2 business days One tip: if you're planning to use the advance, make sure your tax return is as accurate as possible. Any discrepancies that cause the IRS to adjust your refund amount could complicate the repayment process. Since you mentioned having to amend last year, double-check all your forms and calculations before filing to avoid delays. The whole process was much smoother than I expected, and having the funds available so quickly really helped with some unexpected expenses I had in February.
This is super helpful, especially the part about the soft credit pull! I was worried about that impacting my score since I'm planning to apply for a car loan later this year. Quick question - when you say the virtual card works immediately, can you use it at physical stores too or just online? I'm not very familiar with how virtual cards work with mobile wallets.
Just a tip from someone who's been filing taxes for 20+ years - regardless of when the tax year starts, create a simple system NOW for tracking everything. I use a basic spreadsheet with income in one tab and expenses in another, broken down by category. Takes me 5 min each week to update and saves HOURS of stress come tax time. Much easier than trying to sort through a shoebox of receipts in April lol!
Do you have a template of this spreadsheet you could share? I'm terrible at creating these things from scratch but really need to get organized.
I don't have a shareable link, but it's super simple to create. Just make columns for Date, Description, Amount, and Category. For the income tab, add a column for which client/employer it came from and whether tax was withheld. For the expense tab, I categorize things like "Office Supplies," "Software/Subscriptions," "Travel," etc. I also take a photo of each receipt with my phone as backup. If you use accounting software like QuickBooks Self-Employed, it does all this automatically and even tracks mileage, which is even better.
One thing nobody mentioned - while Jan 1 is the start of the tax year for most people, if you own a business you can actually choose a different fiscal year for your company. My LLC uses October 1 to September 30 as our tax year which works better for our seasonal business. Just something to consider if you ever formalize your freelancing into a business entity!
This is super important. I made the mistake of using calendar year for my seasonal business (summer camps) and it made accounting a nightmare since each season got split across two tax years. What's the process for changing your fiscal year once you've already established it?
Just to give you some peace of mind - I made exactly this mistake last year with my brother's inherited IRA. My financial advisor incorrectly rolled it into a regular IRA in my name. We caught it about 3 months later. We were able to get it fully corrected by having both financial institutions treat it as an "eligible rollover error" and essentially reverse the transaction, then properly set up an inherited IRA. The key was getting both institutions to acknowledge in writing that this was their administrative error, not my intentional action. The whole process took about 6 weeks, but everything was fixed with no tax consequences. Document everything, be persistent, and don't take "we can't fix this" for an answer!
I work in estate planning and see this mistake unfortunately often. Your advisor made a significant error - non-spouse beneficiaries absolutely cannot roll inherited IRAs into their own traditional IRAs. This is one of the most basic rules in retirement account inheritance. The good news is this can definitely be fixed, but you need to act quickly. Here's exactly what you should do: 1. Contact your new advisor immediately and demand they acknowledge this was their error in writing 2. Call both financial institutions (old and new) and explain this was an "administrative error in rollover processing" 3. Request they process this as a "return of mistaken distribution" under Revenue Procedure 2016-47 4. Insist the funds be moved to a properly titled inherited IRA account Since you're within a reasonable timeframe (2 months), most institutions will cooperate to fix this, especially when it's clearly advisor error. Make sure the correction shows the account as "[Your Name] as beneficiary of [Father's Name] IRA" or similar inherited IRA titling. Don't let your advisor blame you or claim this is "just as good" - it's not. An improperly rolled inherited IRA could trigger taxation on the entire balance plus potential penalties. Document every conversation and get all agreements to fix this in writing. If they refuse to help correct their mistake, escalate to their compliance department immediately.
This is incredibly helpful advice, thank you! As someone new to dealing with inherited retirement accounts, I had no idea this type of mistake was so common. Your step-by-step approach gives me confidence that this can actually be fixed. I'm curious - when you say "Revenue Procedure 2016-47," is this something I should specifically mention by name when I call the financial institutions? And should I expect any pushback from them, or do they typically cooperate once they realize it was an administrative error on their part? Also, you mentioned escalating to compliance departments if needed. Is there a certain timeframe I should give them to respond before taking that step?
Don't stress too much about calling the IRS - they're actually more willing to work with you than you might expect, especially when you're proactive about setting up a payment plan before they come after you. For your $2,700 debt, you definitely qualify for the streamlined agreement since it's under $10,000. The math works out to roughly $75/month over 36 months, which sounds way more manageable than your sister's $250 payments (she probably owed a lot more). Here's what I'd suggest: before you call, write down your monthly income and essential expenses (rent, utilities, car payment, groceries, etc.) so you have a clear picture of what you can realistically afford. When you talk to them, be honest about your financial situation as a part-time student. They often accept lower monthly payments if you can show you're making a good faith effort. The worst they can say is no to your proposed payment amount, and then you'd just need to fill out the financial hardship forms. But for someone in school working part-time, they're usually pretty reasonable about working within your budget.
This is really reassuring to hear! I was honestly terrified about making that call, but knowing they're generally willing to work with students makes me feel so much better. The $75/month calculation actually sounds totally doable for my budget - that's way less scary than what I was imagining. I really like your suggestion about writing down my expenses beforehand. I think having those numbers clear in my head will help me sound more prepared and serious about wanting to resolve this. Thanks for the encouragement - I'm going to gather my paperwork and make that call this week!
Hey Zoe! I was in almost the exact same situation last year - $2,900 debt while finishing my master's degree and working part-time. I was so nervous about that call too, but it turned out way better than expected. For your amount, you'll definitely qualify for the streamlined agreement. I told them I could afford $85/month and they accepted it immediately - no financial paperwork required. The IRS rep was actually really patient and explained all my options clearly. One tip: when you call, mention that you're a student working part-time right upfront. They seemed to take that into consideration and didn't pressure me to pay more than I said I could handle. Also, they'll ask when you want your first payment due - I asked for it to start the following month to give myself time to adjust my budget. The whole process took maybe 20 minutes once I got through, and those scary letters stopped coming within a couple weeks. You've got this!
That's such a relief to hear from someone who was in basically the same boat! The $85/month you mentioned sounds totally reasonable for my situation too. I really appreciate the tip about mentioning being a student upfront - I hadn't thought about how that might help frame the conversation. Did you end up paying any setup fees for the payment plan, or was it just the monthly payments? Also, when you say the scary letters stopped - did you still get regular statements or reminders about your payments, or did all IRS mail basically stop once you were on the plan?
There's a small setup fee for installment agreements - I think it was around $31 for the online application or $43 if you set it up over the phone. But if you qualify for low-income (which as a part-time student you probably do), the fee can be reduced to just $10. After setting up the payment plan, I still got monthly statements from the IRS showing my remaining balance and payment due date, but those scary "FINAL NOTICE" type letters completely stopped. The monthly statements are actually helpful because they show exactly how much of your payment went to principal vs. interest, and you can see your balance going down each month. Way less stressful than those collection notices!
Sophia Long
Another option if you want to be extra thorough is to use TurboTax's "Export to PDF" feature once you get to the review stage. Look for it in the File menu or sometimes there's an option that says "Save/Print Return for Your Records." This will generate a complete PDF of your entire tax return with all forms and schedules before you pay anything. You can then review the PDF at your own pace and make sure everything looks correct. It's especially helpful for complex returns like yours with multiple income sources since you can easily flip between forms and cross-reference numbers. Much better than trying to navigate back and forth through the software screens!
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Ellie Kim
ā¢This is exactly what I was looking for! I didn't know about the "Export to PDF" feature. Being able to have the complete return as a PDF file would be perfect for my situation since I can take my time reviewing all the schedules without worrying about timing out of the software. Thanks for the tip about looking in the File menu - I'll definitely try this before paying.
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Juan Moreno
I went through this exact same situation last year with my rental properties and side business! What worked best for me was a combination of approaches. First, use the "View Tax Summary" feature that Santiago mentioned - it's usually in the review section before payment. But don't stop there! For complex returns like yours, I highly recommend also doing what Sophia suggested and exporting the entire return to PDF. This gives you a complete paper trail to review offline. Pay special attention to your Schedule E (rental income/expenses) and Schedule C (business income) - these are where most errors happen with complicated returns. One thing I learned the hard way: even if TurboTax says everything looks good, manually verify that your rental property depreciation is calculated correctly and that all your business expense categories make sense. The software sometimes miscategorizes things, especially if you have overlapping business and rental expenses. Take your time with the review - it's worth spending an extra hour now versus dealing with amendments later!
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KhalilStar
ā¢This is such helpful advice! I'm dealing with a similar situation - first year with rental property and I'm terrified of messing something up. Can you clarify what you mean about overlapping business and rental expenses? I have a home office that I use for both my consulting business and managing my rental property, so I'm not sure how to handle that. Also, did you find any specific red flags to watch for when reviewing the Schedule E depreciation calculations?
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