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This is a great strategy! I'm in a similar situation with W2 income and side business income. One thing to keep in mind is that your Solo 401k contribution limit will be based on your net self-employment income (after expenses and self-employment tax), not the gross $27k. The calculation gets a bit tricky - you'll need to factor in half of your self-employment tax as a deduction. So if your net profit is $27k, your actual contribution limit will be somewhat less. The employee contribution portion is limited to 100% of compensation, and the employer portion is around 20% of net self-employment income after adjustments. Also, make sure to set up the Solo 401k before the end of the tax year if you want to make contributions for that year. The account needs to be established by December 31st, though you have until the tax filing deadline (plus extensions) to actually make the contributions. Rolling over your old 401ks into the Solo 401k is definitely a smart move for keeping your Backdoor Roth strategy clean. Just make sure whatever provider you choose has good investment options and reasonable fees since you'll potentially be consolidating a lot of money there.
This is really helpful info about the net income calculations! I'm new to having self-employment income and wasn't sure how the self-employment tax adjustment worked. Do you happen to know if there are any good calculators or tools that can help figure out the exact contribution limits? I want to make sure I'm maximizing my contributions without going over the limits. Also, regarding the December 31st deadline - does that mean I need to have the account fully funded by then, or just opened? I'm planning to do this for the 2025 tax year and want to make sure I don't miss any important deadlines.
@Sydney Torres You just need to have the Solo 401k account established opened (by) December 31st, not fully funded. You can make contributions up until your tax filing deadline, including extensions - so typically until April 15th of the following year, or October 15th if you file an extension. For calculating exact contribution limits, the taxr.ai tool that @Jamal Carter mentioned earlier is actually really good for this. It handles all the self-employment tax adjustments and shows you exactly how much you can contribute as both employee and employer. The IRS also has worksheets in Publication 560, but honestly the online calculators are much easier to use and less error-prone. One tip: if you re'planning to do this for 2025, start the account setup process early in the year so you have more time to make strategic contributions throughout the year rather than scrambling at the end.
This is exactly the kind of strategic retirement planning that can really pay off in the long run! Your approach of using the Solo 401k to keep your Traditional IRA balance at zero for clean Backdoor Roth conversions is spot on. One additional consideration I'd mention is loan provisions. Unlike Traditional IRAs, Solo 401ks allow you to take loans against your balance (up to 50% or $50,000, whichever is less). This can provide additional flexibility if you ever need access to funds before retirement age, though obviously it should be used carefully. Also, since you're consolidating multiple old 401ks, this might be a good time to review and optimize your overall asset allocation. Having everything in one place makes it much easier to rebalance and avoid overlap in your investment strategy. The fact that your current employer doesn't offer a 401k actually simplifies things significantly - you won't have to worry about coordinating contribution limits across multiple plans or dealing with the complexity of multiple plan administrators.
This is super helpful context about the loan provisions! I had no idea Solo 401ks allowed loans - that's actually a huge advantage over IRAs. Quick question though: if I take a loan from my Solo 401k, does that affect my ability to continue making contributions? And are there any tax implications I should be aware of beyond the obvious need to pay it back? Also, regarding the asset allocation point you made - do most Solo 401k providers offer the same range of investment options as regular 401ks, or are there typically more restrictions? I'm currently spread across like 4 different old 401ks with different fund families and it's a nightmare to manage.
I'm going through the exact same thing right now with a CP81 notice for my 2023 taxes! Reading through everyone's experiences here has been incredibly helpful and reassuring. Like the original poster, I used TurboTax and was sure everything went through properly. I found my acceptance confirmation in my email (thankfully not in spam this time) with the confirmation number and filing date. Based on all the advice here, I'm planning to respond with a simple letter including my TurboTax acceptance confirmation and a copy of the CP81 notice. I'm leaning toward sending it via certified mail rather than trying to call the IRS, since the phone wait times sound brutal. One question for those who have been through this - did any of you get any kind of intermediate confirmation from the IRS that they received your response, or did you just have to wait for the final resolution letter? I'm the type who gets anxious not knowing if my mail actually made it to the right place! Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences. It's made this whole situation feel much less scary knowing that it's fairly common and typically resolves without major issues.
@Paige Cantoni I went through this exact process a few months ago and totally understand the anxiety about not knowing if your mail made it! When I sent my response via certified mail, I got the delivery confirmation which at least told me it reached the IRS, but you re'right that there s'no immediate acknowledgment that they actually processed your response. What I did was keep the certified mail tracking number and delivery confirmation in my records. The IRS doesn t'typically send an intermediate we "got your stuff letter" - you just have to wait for their final decision letter. In my case, it took about 3-4 weeks from when they received my certified mail to when I got the resolution letter saying everything was cleared up. If you want a bit more peace of mind, you could also respond through your IRS online account if that option is available on your notice. That way you get immediate confirmation that they received your response electronically. But honestly, certified mail with your TurboTax acceptance confirmation should work just fine. The waiting is definitely the hardest part, but it sounds like you have all the right documentation to get this resolved smoothly!
I went through a CP81 notice situation about 8 months ago and want to share what I learned that might help others here. The most important thing is that this notice doesn't mean you're in trouble - it's literally just the IRS saying "we can't find your return in our system, can you help us locate it?" What I found really helpful was creating a timeline of my filing process. I wrote down the date I completed my return in TurboTax, the date it was transmitted, and the acceptance date from my confirmation email. This helped me organize my thoughts and gave me confidence that I had actually filed properly. One thing that surprised me was that my state return had been processed fine, but somehow my federal return got lost in the system. So even if your state refund came through or your state taxes were processed normally, you could still get a CP81 for federal taxes. My advice: gather your TurboTax acceptance confirmation, write a brief letter explaining when you filed, and respond promptly. I sent mine via certified mail and got resolution in about 3 weeks. The key is having that electronic filing acceptance proof - it's basically undeniable evidence that you filed on time. Don't let the official government language intimidate you. This is really just a clerical issue that gets resolved once you provide proof of filing. You've got this!
@Ravi Sharma This is such a helpful perspective! The timeline approach is brilliant - I wish I had thought of that when I was dealing with my CP81 notice. It really does help to see the whole filing process laid out chronologically, especially when you re'second-guessing whether you actually filed correctly. Your point about state vs federal processing is really interesting too. I had no idea they could be processed separately like that. It makes sense though - different systems, different potential points of failure. Good to know that getting your state refund doesn t'necessarily mean your federal return made it through successfully. The reassurance about this being just a clerical issue rather than being in "trouble is" so important. When you first get that official IRS letter, your mind immediately goes to worst-case scenarios. But you re'absolutely right - they re'literally just asking hey, "did you file? If so, can you show us proof? It" s'much more straightforward than the intimidating government language makes it seem. Thanks for sharing your experience and the encouraging words. Stories like yours really help calm the nerves when dealing with these situations!
Anyone else confused about what counts as "taxable" across state lines? I bought a laptop online last year and can't remember if I paid tax on it or not. Would that definitely count for use tax?
You should be able to check your email receipt to see if sales tax was charged. If not, then yes, a laptop would definitely be subject to use tax in your home state. Electronics are fully taxable in pretty much every state.
Just adding to what the other person said - online retailers like Amazon now collect sales tax for most states automatically. So check your receipt. If they didn't collect it, you'd owe use tax. However, if they collected sales tax for a different state than where you live, it gets complicated.
This is exactly the kind of situation that trips up so many people! Living on state lines makes tax filing way more complicated than it should be. For your grocery shopping, the good news is that many states exempt basic groceries from sales tax entirely, so you might not owe anything on those cross-border trips. But prepared foods, household items, and definitely online purchases are a different story. The key thing to remember is that use tax is really about making sure your home state gets its fair share when you buy things elsewhere. If you paid sales tax in the other state that's equal to or higher than your home state rate, you're usually good. It's only when you paid less (or nothing) that you owe the difference. Most states have made this easier by offering those lookup tables based on income that others mentioned. For someone spending $300-400/month on cross-border shopping, using the table is probably your best bet unless you made some really big purchases that would push your actual use tax way above the table amount. Don't stress too much about perfect record keeping for routine shopping - the states know this is impractical for most people, which is why they created these simplified methods.
This is really helpful! I'm new to dealing with use tax and have been stressing about it. One follow-up question - when you mention that states have lookup tables based on income, where exactly do I find that on my state's tax return? Is it usually clearly labeled as "use tax table" or something similar? I want to make sure I'm using the right method and not missing something obvious.
Just want to add that if you're caring for a disabled dependent (even if not blind), you might qualify for different tax benefits like the Credit for Other Dependents or potentially even the Child Tax Credit depending on the situation. Never assume that just because there's no specific checkbox, there aren't benefits available!
This is so true. I missed out on benefits for years caring for my sister because I didn't know I qualified as her caretaker. The tax forms don't make this obvious at all.
This is such a great question! I work as a tax preparer and see this confusion all the time. The blindness checkbox exists because it triggers a specific additional standard deduction that was written into the tax code decades ago. But you're absolutely right that it seems arbitrary compared to other disabilities. What many people don't realize is that there are actually tons of other disability-related tax benefits scattered throughout the code - they're just not as obvious as a simple checkbox. Things like the Disabled Access Credit for business owners, various medical expense deductions, and even some lesser-known credits for specific conditions. The problem is that these benefits are buried in different sections and forms, making them much harder to find and claim. I always tell my clients with disabilities (beyond blindness) to keep detailed records of all their disability-related expenses because there are often deductions available that aren't immediately obvious from the standard forms.
This is really helpful insight from a professional perspective! As someone new to navigating disability-related tax issues, it's frustrating how scattered these benefits are. You mentioned keeping detailed records - what specific types of expenses should people be tracking that they might not think of as tax-deductible? I'm helping my elderly parent who has mobility issues and I worry we're missing obvious deductions because they're not as straightforward as that blindness checkbox.
Jacob Lee
I'm an admin for a plumbing company and we handle this exact situation with our on-call techs. We use what's called the "commuting rule" where we only add $1.75 per one-way commute to their taxable income instead of the full lease value of the van. We also have a written policy that prohibits using the van for personal purposes (other than minimal personal stops on the way home). As long as your employer has that policy in writing and enforces it, they shouldn't be taxing you on the full value of the vehicle - just the minimal commuting value. Maybe share this with your HR or payroll department?
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Emily Thompson
ā¢How does the company track or monitor personal use? Like if someone stops at the grocery store on the way home, how would the employer even know?
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Aisha Abdullah
Based on what you've described, your employer may be incorrectly calculating your taxable benefit. Since you're required to take the van home specifically for on-call emergency response (not as a perk), and your van has permanent business modifications like built-in shelving and company logos, you likely qualify for either the "qualified nonpersonal use vehicle" exemption or at minimum the reduced "commuting rule" taxation. Under the commuting rule, you should only be taxed $1.75 each way ($3.50/day) rather than the full fair market value of the vehicle. For the qualified nonpersonal use vehicle exemption, vehicles with permanent business equipment that make personal use unlikely can be completely exempt from fringe benefit taxation. I'd recommend documenting that: 1) taking the van home is mandatory company policy for on-call techs, 2) the van has permanent business modifications, and 3) personal use is prohibited by company policy. Present this to your payroll department with references to IRS Publication 15-B sections on these specific exemptions. Your situation sounds like a textbook case for reduced or eliminated vehicle benefit taxation.
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Mateo Hernandez
ā¢This is really helpful information! I'm in a similar situation as a field service tech and had no idea there were specific exemptions like this. Do you happen to know if there's a specific form or documentation template that employers should use when applying these exemptions? My company's HR department seems pretty clueless about these rules and I'd like to give them something concrete to work with rather than just explaining it verbally.
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