IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

As someone who went through this exact same confusion when I started investing, I can confirm what everyone else has said - you're absolutely fine! No reporting required for purchases only. I made the mistake of spending hours researching this my first year when I could have just asked here. The key insight that finally made it click for me was understanding that the tax code distinguishes between "paper gains/losses" (unrealized) and "actual gains/losses" (realized through selling). Your $10k in unrealized gains could theoretically become $20k or drop to $5k tomorrow, and the IRS doesn't want to deal with that constantly changing paperwork nightmare. They only care when you convert those fluctuating values back into actual cash through a sale. Keep investing with confidence - you're handling this perfectly by buying and holding. That's not just tax-smart, it's also proven to be one of the best long-term wealth-building strategies!

0 coins

Grace Durand

•

This whole thread has been a lifesaver! I was literally losing sleep over this exact question. I started investing in a taxable account for the first time this year and kept seeing my unrealized gains fluctuate, wondering if I was supposed to be tracking all of it for taxes. The "paper gains vs actual gains" distinction you mentioned really drives it home. It makes perfect sense that the IRS only wants to deal with actual transactions where money changes hands, not every daily fluctuation in stock prices across millions of investors. I feel so much more confident now about my buy-and-hold approach. Thanks to everyone who contributed their knowledge here - this is exactly why I love this community!

0 coins

Jacinda Yu

•

This is such a reassuring thread for new investors! I just opened my first taxable brokerage account last month and have been buying index funds, but I was worried I might be missing some reporting requirement. The explanation about "realization" really clicked for me - it's the same reason I don't pay taxes on my 401k growing in value until I actually withdraw from it. The IRS only cares when there's an actual transaction that puts money in my pocket. One thing I'll add for other newcomers: don't let tax concerns stop you from starting to invest. I delayed opening my taxable account for months because I was intimidated by the potential tax complexity, but it turns out the "buy and hold" strategy is actually the most tax-simple approach you can take. Thanks to everyone who shared their expertise - it's clear this is a common concern that shouldn't keep anyone awake at night!

0 coins

Jacob Lee

•

You made such a smart point about not letting tax concerns delay investing! I did the exact same thing - spent months researching tax implications before even opening my account, when I could have been investing and growing my money that whole time. The 401k comparison is perfect too. We don't stress about our retirement accounts gaining value because we intuitively understand we're not taxed until withdrawal. Taxable investing follows the same basic principle - the IRS waits until you actually realize gains through selling. It's funny how something that seems so complicated at first becomes crystal clear once you understand that one core concept. For anyone else reading this who's hesitating to start investing because of tax worries - just start buying and holding! The tax side really is that simple.

0 coins

This has been such a comprehensive discussion! As a newcomer to this community, I'm really impressed by the depth of knowledge and real-world experience everyone has shared. The original question about the Tesla Cybertruck seemed straightforward, but it's clear there's a whole world of complexity around vehicle deductions that most people don't understand. What I find particularly valuable is how the discussion evolved from the basic "can I write off a Cybertruck" question to covering all the nuances - documentation requirements, state tax differences, business structure implications, audit risks, and the importance of genuine business need. The recurring theme seems to be that while these deductions can provide significant benefits, they require serious attention to compliance and record-keeping. The emphasis on conservative estimates and meticulous documentation really resonates with me. It's clear that the IRS specifically targets vehicle deductions because they're commonly abused, so anyone considering this needs to be prepared to prove their business use convincingly. I especially appreciate the practical advice about tracking apps, the 5-year recapture rules, and the importance of letting business needs drive the decision rather than just chasing tax savings. For someone like me who's considering starting a business in the future, this thread has provided a roadmap for approaching vehicle purchases responsibly and legally. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - both successes and lessons learned the hard way. This is exactly the kind of informed discussion that helps newcomers understand what's really involved in business ownership and tax planning.

0 coins

Amara Chukwu

•

Welcome to the community! This thread really has been a masterclass in understanding vehicle deductions properly. As someone who's been lurking here for a while but just joined, I'm amazed at how generous everyone has been with sharing their real experiences - both the wins and the costly mistakes. What really stands out to me is how this discussion shows the difference between legitimate tax strategy and risky tax avoidance. The people who've been successful with vehicle deductions all emphasize the same things: genuine business need, meticulous documentation, conservative estimates, and professional guidance. Meanwhile, the cautionary tales seem to come from people who focused primarily on the tax benefits without properly considering the compliance requirements. I'm particularly grateful for the practical details like specific app recommendations, the explanation of recapture rules, and the state tax conformity issues. These are the kinds of real-world details you don't usually find in generic tax advice articles. For anyone else new to business planning who's reading this, I think the key lesson is that effective tax planning requires understanding both the opportunities AND the obligations. The vehicle deduction strategies discussed here can be powerful tools, but only when used properly within a legitimate business context. Thanks again to everyone who contributed - this is exactly why community discussions are so valuable for learning about complex topics like business taxation!

0 coins

This has been an incredibly informative thread! As someone who's been thinking about incorporating my freelance graphic design work, I had no idea vehicle deductions were this complex. Reading everyone's experiences has really opened my eyes to both the opportunities and the pitfalls. What's particularly helpful is how this discussion has emphasized that the IRS isn't just looking at whether you bought a heavy vehicle - they're scrutinizing the actual business use and documentation. The stories about audit experiences and the importance of contemporaneous record-keeping are sobering but necessary to understand. I'm curious about one aspect that hasn't been fully explored yet - for service-based businesses like consulting or design work, where most client meetings might be virtual or at coffee shops, what constitutes legitimate "business use" of a vehicle? Would driving to occasional client meetings, picking up printing supplies, or going to co-working spaces count as sufficient business purpose to justify a vehicle deduction? Also, for those who've successfully navigated this, how do you handle the documentation when your business use varies seasonally? For example, if you have busy periods where you're driving to multiple client sites but slower periods where most work is done from home? The consistent message I'm hearing is to be conservative and document everything, but I'd love to understand what realistic business use looks like for different types of businesses beyond the construction and real estate examples that have been shared.

0 coins

Anyone have a recommendation for good tax software that handles self-employment taxes well? I've been using FreeFileWhatever but it gets confusing with all the schedules.

0 coins

Luis Johnson

•

I switched to TaxSlayer last year and it was great for my self-employment stuff. It walks you through all the Schedule C questions and automatically calculates your self-employment tax. Then shows how the deduction for half your SE tax affects your federal income tax. Saved me about $300 compared to what I paid with TurboBlaster the year before.

0 coins

Just wanted to add something that might help with the quarterly payment calculations - the IRS safe harbor rule can be really useful for self-employed folks. If you pay at least 100% of last year's total tax liability (or 110% if your prior year AGI was over $150,000), you won't face underpayment penalties even if you end up owing more at filing time. This is especially helpful when your self-employment income varies throughout the year. You can use last year's numbers as a baseline for your quarterly payments and then adjust up or down based on how your current year income is tracking. Also, remember that your quarterly payments are due on the 15th of January, April, June, and September (not every three months like you might expect). The IRS has specific due dates that don't follow a regular quarterly calendar. One more tip - if you're just starting with self-employment, consider opening a separate savings account just for taxes. I transfer about 25-30% of each payment I receive into that account to cover both the self-employment tax and federal income tax. Makes it much easier to handle the quarterly payments and avoid scrambling for cash when they're due.

0 coins

This is really helpful advice about the safe harbor rule! I'm new to self-employment and didn't know about the 100%/110% rule. Quick question - when you say "total tax liability," does that include both the income tax AND self-employment tax from last year? Or just the income tax portion? Also, that tip about the separate savings account is gold. I've been just keeping everything in my main checking account and it's stressful trying to figure out how much I can actually spend vs. what I need to save for taxes. What percentage do you recommend for someone just starting out? I've heard anywhere from 25-35% depending on your income level.

0 coins

Don't you also need to worry about "statutory residency" in some states? I think some states consider you a full-year resident if you're there for more than 183 days even if you moved.

0 coins

Sarah Ali

•

Yes, this is super important! California in particular is aggressive about this. If you spent more than 9 months there in the tax year, they might argue you're a full-year resident even if you "moved" to Texas. They look at factors like: - Where your main home is - Where your family lives - Where your cars are registered - Where you vote - Where your doctors are

0 coins

Jamal Harris

•

I actually went through this exact same situation two years ago - California to Texas mid-year with the same employer. A few things that might help beyond what others have mentioned: 1. Keep detailed records of your move date - lease agreements, utility shutoff/startup dates, driver's license change, voter registration change, etc. California can be pretty aggressive about challenging part-year residency claims. 2. Your employer should have updated their payroll system when you moved, but double-check that they stopped California withholdings after your move date. I had to fight to get a corrected W2 because they kept withholding CA taxes for 6 weeks after I moved. 3. Since Texas has no state income tax, you'll only need to file the California part-year return. Make sure you're only reporting income earned while physically present in California - this is key if you did any remote work. 4. California's part-year resident form (540NR) can be tricky. The software should handle most of it, but pay attention to the income allocation section. You want to be very precise about which income belongs to which period. Good luck! The process is more straightforward than it initially seems once you understand the basics.

0 coins

ShadowHunter

•

This is incredibly helpful - thank you for sharing your experience! I'm particularly concerned about point #1 regarding documentation. How detailed should I be with the records? I have my lease agreements and utility bills, but I'm wondering if I need to get something more official like a notarized statement of my move date? Also, did California give you any pushback on your part-year residency claim, or was it pretty straightforward once you had the documentation together?

0 coins

Just went through this exact situation last year! I had to give $8,200 in closing credits to my buyers and was completely lost on how to handle it tax-wise. What helped me was understanding that the closing credits aren't really an "expense" you deduct - they just reduce what you actually received from the sale. Think of it this way: if your contract was for $400,000 but you gave $7,500 in closing credits, you effectively only received $392,500. That's what you report as your sale price. The credits never actually went into your pocket, so they can't be your proceeds. One thing that caught me off guard - make sure you're calculating your gain correctly by using your adjusted basis (original purchase price plus qualifying improvements minus any depreciation). Since you mentioned you might qualify for the capital gains exclusion anyway, you'll want to double-check that your total gain is under the threshold before deciding whether you even need to report the sale. Keep all your closing documents - the settlement statement will clearly show the credits, which makes it easy to document if the IRS ever has questions.

0 coins

Ava Thompson

•

This is really helpful! I'm dealing with a similar situation right now - we're under contract to sell our home and already agreed to $5,000 in closing credits to help the buyers with their costs. I've been stressing about how to handle this on our taxes since it's our first time selling a home. Your explanation about it reducing the actual proceeds rather than being a separate expense makes so much sense. Did you end up needing to report the sale at all, or did you qualify for the full exclusion? We should be well under the $500k threshold but want to make sure we handle everything correctly.

0 coins

Aisha Rahman

•

I just wanted to chime in as someone who works in real estate and sees this confusion all the time! You're absolutely right to be careful about how you report this - closing credits are one of those things that can trip people up. The key thing to remember is that closing credits to buyers are considered a "selling expense" that reduces your net proceeds, not a separate deduction you can take. So if your home sold for $350,000 but you gave $7,500 in credits, your reportable sale price is $342,500. Since you mentioned you didn't receive a 1099-S and you lived in the home as your primary residence, you'll likely qualify for the capital gains exclusion. Just make sure to calculate your actual gain correctly: (Sale Price - Closing Credits) minus (Original Purchase Price + Qualifying Improvements + Buying/Selling Costs). One tip: if you're using TurboTax, when you get to the home sale section, it will ask for your "gross proceeds." That should be your contract price minus the buyer credits. TurboTax is pretty good about walking you through this, but knowing the concept ahead of time helps you enter everything correctly. Keep all your closing documents - the settlement statement will show exactly how much you gave in credits, which makes your tax filing much cleaner.

0 coins

This is exactly the kind of clear explanation I needed! As someone new to home sales, the distinction between "selling expenses" and "deductions" was confusing me. Your point about TurboTax asking for "gross proceeds" is super helpful - I was wondering how to enter that information correctly. Quick follow-up question: when you mention "buying/selling costs" that can be added to basis or subtracted from proceeds, does that include things like realtor commissions and title insurance? Or are those handled differently from the closing credits to buyers? Thanks for breaking this down so clearly - it's reassuring to know that TurboTax will walk through the process, but understanding the logic behind it definitely makes me more confident about getting it right.

0 coins

Prev1...10491050105110521053...5643Next