All of this back filing info is helpful but just be aware there are time limits on claiming refunds! If you're owed money from the IRS, you typically have only 3 years from the original due date to file and claim a refund. So for example, for tax year 2020 (which was due April 2021), you have until April 2024 to file and still get your refund. For 2017, the deadline to claim a refund was April 2021 - if you're filing 2017 now, you can still file the return but you wouldn't get any refund you were owed. Just wanted to mention this since it seems like some people are discussing filing returns from several years back!

Just wanted to chime in as someone who went through this exact situation last year. I was trying to back file for 2018 and got so much conflicting information from different sources that I almost gave up. The bottom line is: NO tax software can e-file returns for prior years beyond what the IRS accepts (current year + maybe previous year early in filing season). This is an IRS system limitation, not a software limitation. Both TaxACT and TurboTax will let you prepare old returns online, but you'll have to print and mail them. I ended up using TaxACT because it was cheaper for prior years ($25 vs TurboTax's $60), but the end result was identical - had to mail everything in. One tip: make sure you use certified mail when sending old returns. The IRS processing times for mailed returns can be really long (took 4 months for mine), and you want proof they received it. Also double-check you're mailing to the correct address for your state - it's different than where you'd mail current year returns. Good luck with your 2017 filing!

I'm a bookkeeper and I see this ALL THE TIME with new S-Corps. Here's a step-by-step approach: 1. Open separate accounts today 2. Print all bank/credit statements since S-Corp formation 3. Create a spreadsheet tracking every transaction 4. Mark each as business or personal 5. Calculate total personal expenses paid from business account 6. Calculate total business expenses paid from personal accounts 7. Do a reconciling transfer to make the accounts whole 8. Set up proper payroll immediately 9. Document EVERYTHING with a memo explaining the situation The worst thing you can do is ignore it. I've helped clients navigate IRS inquiries on this exact issue, and they're much more lenient when you've identified and fixed the problem yourself.

I went through almost the exact same situation with my S-Corp about 18 months ago. The panic when you realize what a mess you've created is real, but it's absolutely fixable! Here's what worked for me: I immediately opened separate business accounts and stopped all commingling that day. Then I hired a CPA who specializes in S-Corps (not just any accountant - make sure they know S-Corp rules inside and out). We did a full reconstruction of my books going back to the S-Corp election date. The salary issue is critical - you need to get on payroll ASAP. My CPA calculated what my reasonable salary should have been from day one and we did retroactive payroll for the entire period. Yes, I had to pay employment taxes on that amount, but it protected me from much worse penalties if the IRS had discovered it first. One thing that really helped was creating a detailed memo explaining the situation, the steps we took to fix it, and the controls we put in place to prevent it from happening again. Documentation is your friend here. The good news is that the IRS sees this mistake frequently with new S-Corps, and they're generally reasonable if you proactively fix it and can show you took it seriously. Don't let the fear paralyze you - take action now and you'll sleep much better in a few months.

Just wanted to chime in as someone who went through this exact same confusion a few months ago! The W8-BEN is absolutely essential if you want to invest in US stocks as a UK resident - it's not optional, it's required by your broker. Think of it this way: without the W8-BEN, the US government assumes you're trying to avoid taxes and withholds the full 30%. With the form, they know you're a legitimate UK taxpayer and only withhold 15% thanks to the tax treaty. One thing I wish someone had told me earlier - make sure you keep a copy of your completed form for your own records. Some brokers are terrible at notifying you when it's about to expire, and you definitely don't want to find out the hard way like some people here did! The form itself is pretty straightforward once you realize that your UK National Insurance number goes in the foreign tax ID field. Just remember to use the same name format across all your investment accounts to avoid any headaches later.

As someone who's been through this exact situation, I can confirm that the W8-BEN is absolutely nothing to worry about! I was similarly anxious about anything IRS-related when I first started investing in US stocks at 25. The key thing to understand is that the W8-BEN actually PROTECTS you from having to deal with the IRS directly. Without it, you'd face the full 30% withholding tax on any dividends, and potentially need to file US tax returns to claim refunds. With the form, you get the reduced 15% rate under the UK-US tax treaty and avoid US filing obligations entirely. A few practical tips from my experience: - Keep digital copies of your completed forms - some brokers are rubbish at renewal reminders - Use exactly the same name format across all platforms to avoid complications - Your UK National Insurance number is what goes in the "foreign tax identifying number" field - The form expires every 3 years, so set yourself a calendar reminder The form typically takes less than 10 minutes to complete online through your broker's platform. Given that it can save you hundreds or thousands in unnecessary tax withholding over time, it's absolutely worth doing regardless of your initial investment amount. Don't let the IRS connection scare you - this is standard practice for any non-US investor and millions of us have done it without any issues!

I'm glad I found this thread! I've been dealing with the same confusion about tax calculations. What really helped me understand it was thinking of the tax brackets like climbing stairs - you don't jump straight to the top step (your highest bracket), you climb each step (bracket) one at a time. So for someone making $75K, you're not paying 22% on the whole amount. You pay 10% on the first $13,850, then 12% on the amount from $13,851 to $56,350, and finally 22% only on the portion from $56,351 to $75,000. The Tax Table is basically like having someone else climb those stairs for you and tell you what the total is. Same destination, just saves you the work of calculating each step. I used to think the table was somehow "less accurate" but now I realize it's doing the exact same progressive calculation behind the scenes. Thanks to everyone who explained this so clearly - it's such a relief to finally understand how this actually works!

As someone who just went through this exact confusion during my first year doing my own taxes, I can confirm that the bracket method you described is 100% correct! The key insight that finally clicked for me was realizing that when people say someone is "in the 24% tax bracket," they're NOT saying that person pays 24% on their entire income. They're just describing the rate that applies to their highest dollars earned. Your $135K example is spot-on with the progressive calculation. What really helped me was actually doing the math both ways - manually calculating each bracket portion versus using the Tax Table for a lower income amount - and seeing that they give identical results. One thing that might help solidify your understanding: try calculating your effective tax rate (total tax ÷ total income) using your bracket method. You'll see it's significantly lower than your marginal rate, which proves you're not being taxed at one flat percentage on everything. The Tax Table is honestly a godsend for avoiding calculation errors. I made several mistakes my first time doing the bracket math manually, so now I just use whichever method is appropriate for my income level and don't overthink it!

Sorry you're dealing with this mess! I went through something similar with my Emerald Card last year. The "fraud detection" freeze is usually triggered by their automated systems, not necessarily because you did anything wrong. Here's what worked for me: 1) Keep calling that fraud line Ethan mentioned - be persistent and ask for a supervisor if needed 2) Request they email you confirmation of when the check was actually mailed and the tracking number 3) If it's been over 10 business days since they claim it was mailed, demand they cancel the check and reissue payment via direct deposit to your own bank account. Don't let them keep you in limbo - you have rights here!

Had the exact same issue with my Emerald Card two years ago! The "fraud detection" freeze happened right after I got approved for the advance too. What finally worked for me was filing a complaint with the CFPB (Consumer Financial Protection Bureau) online - within 48 hours of submitting it, H&R Block called me directly and expedited everything. Got my refund check within a week after that. Sometimes you need to escalate beyond their customer service to get real action. The CFPB complaint is free and it puts pressure on them to actually resolve your case instead of giving you the runaround.