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If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


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An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


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Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


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Ask the community...

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Mei Lin

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idk why but this whole thing of kids getting 1099s is wild to me. back in my day we just had lemonade stands šŸ‘“

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Mei Lin

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get off my lawn! šŸ‘Øā€šŸ¦³

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Grace Lee

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Just to add some clarity here - yes your child can absolutely receive a 1099 at any age! Since they made $600 from content creation, whoever paid them should issue a 1099-NEC if it was from a single source. The key things to remember: 1) They'll need to file their own return since it's self-employment income over $400, 2) You can still claim them as your dependent, and 3) Definitely set aside money for taxes (self-employment tax is 15.3% plus regular income tax). Also make sure to track all business expenses - equipment, internet costs, etc. can be deducted!

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Liam McGuire

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This is super helpful! Quick question - when you mention tracking business expenses, would things like a ring light or microphone for content creation count? My kid's been asking for better equipment and I'm wondering if we can write that off

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Paolo Longo

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I've been in a similar situation and unfortunately learned the hard way that there's really no mechanism to get estimated tax overpayments back mid-year. The IRS system just isn't set up for that - they basically treat all your payments (estimated taxes, withholding, etc.) as one big pot that gets reconciled when you file your return. One thing I wish I had known earlier is that you can actually calculate the "safe harbor" amount to avoid underpayment penalties. If you pay at least 100% of last year's tax liability (or 110% if your AGI was over $150k), you won't get hit with penalties even if you underpay during the year. This might help you feel more comfortable reducing future estimated payments if you find yourself in this situation again. Also, definitely file as early as possible in January to get that refund back quickly. I filed on January 20th last year and had my refund within 2 weeks via direct deposit.

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This is really helpful, especially the safe harbor rule! I had no idea about the 100%/110% threshold. That would definitely give me more confidence about adjusting payments if this happens again. Quick question - when you say "100% of last year's tax liability," does that mean the total tax I owed before withholding and estimated payments, or the net amount I actually had to pay when filing?

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It's the total tax liability from line 24 of your Form 1040 (before any payments like withholding or estimated taxes). So if your total tax was $10,000 last year, you'd need to pay at least $10,000 this year through withholding and estimated payments combined to meet the safe harbor, regardless of what your actual refund or balance due was. This is why it's such a useful rule - you can literally just look at last year's return and know exactly how much you need to pay to avoid penalties, even if your income changes dramatically during the year.

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Ravi Patel

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I've been dealing with this exact issue for the past couple of years since I started getting RSUs. What really helped me was setting up a spreadsheet to track my withholding throughout the year - I include regular payroll withholding, supplemental withholding from stock vests, and my estimated payments all in one place. The key insight I learned is that supplemental income (like stock compensation) gets withheld at a flat 22% rate, which might not match your actual marginal tax rate. If you're in a lower bracket, you're probably overwithholding on those vests, and if you're in a higher bracket, you might be underwithholding despite it feeling like they're taking a ton. I now review my withholding situation after each major vesting event and adjust my remaining estimated payments accordingly. It's saved me from both overpaying (like your situation) and underpaying with penalties. The IRS actually has a pretty decent withholding calculator on their website that you can use mid-year to figure out if you need to adjust your W-4 or estimated payments. Unfortunately, you're stuck waiting for your refund, but at least you won't owe any penalties for overpaying!

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StarStrider

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This is exactly the kind of systematic approach I wish I'd had! The spreadsheet idea is brilliant - I've been flying blind trying to estimate my total tax liability across all these different income sources. Quick question: when you say you adjust estimated payments after vesting events, do you actually call the IRS or use some online system to change the amount? I always thought once you set up estimated payments they were kind of locked in for the quarter. Also, do you have any tips for factoring in state taxes when doing these calculations? My state has pretty high rates and I feel like I'm always getting surprised by the state portion of my tax bill. Thanks for sharing your process - this is going to save me a lot of headaches going forward!

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Margot Quinn

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I just went through this exact same situation a few months ago and can confirm what others have said - you should only list "CANADA" on Schedule OI, not both countries. The key insight that helped me was realizing that even though the question asks about "during the tax year," it's specifically in the context of Form 1040NR which only covers your non-resident period. One thing I'd add that hasn't been mentioned yet - make sure you're also consistent with how you handle your Canadian tax obligations during that period. If you're claiming Canadian residency on Schedule OI, you'll likely need to file a Canadian tax return as well and potentially deal with foreign tax credits to avoid double taxation. Also, when you prepare your dual-status statement, be very specific about the exact date your status changed. I used the date I met the substantial presence test, and included a brief calculation showing how I arrived at that date. The IRS appreciates documentation that shows you've done your homework on the residency determination. Good luck with your filing - dual-status returns are definitely tricky the first time, but once you understand the logic behind separating the two periods, it becomes much clearer!

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Thank you for sharing your experience! The point about Canadian tax obligations is really important and something I hadn't fully considered. Since I'll be claiming Canadian residency on Schedule OI for the non-resident period, I assume I'll need to file as a Canadian resident for that same period on my Canadian return? Also, when you mention foreign tax credits to avoid double taxation - did you claim these on your US return, Canadian return, or both? I'm trying to understand how to handle income that might be taxed by both countries during my dual-status year. The substantial presence test calculation is definitely something I need to document better. Did you include the actual calculation in your dual-status statement, or just reference that you used that date?

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Great points about the Canadian tax obligations! Yes, you'll generally need to file as a Canadian resident for the period you're claiming Canadian residency on Schedule OI. The key is maintaining consistency between your US and Canadian filings. For foreign tax credits, it depends on which country has primary taxing rights for each type of income under the tax treaty. Generally, you'd pay tax to the country with primary rights, then claim a foreign tax credit on the other country's return. For employment income, it's usually based on where you physically worked. For investment income, it can be more complex. Regarding the substantial presence test calculation - I included a brief summary in my dual-status statement showing the key dates and total days, but not the full day-by-day calculation. Something like: "Substantial presence test met on [date] based on X days in current year, Y days in prior year (weighted), Z days in year before (weighted) = total of ABC days." Keep the detailed calculation in your records in case the IRS requests it later. The Canada-US tax treaty has specific tie-breaker rules for dual residents, so you might want to review Article IV of the treaty to make sure you're applying the residency determination correctly for both countries.

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Amina Bah

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm in a similar dual-status situation (moved from UK to US mid-2024) and was getting completely different advice from different sources. The consensus here about only listing your foreign country (Canada) on Schedule OI makes total sense now - the form is specifically asking about your foreign tax residency claim for the period covered by 1040NR, not your entire tax year status. What I found most valuable in this discussion is the emphasis on consistency across all forms and the importance of proper documentation. I've been keeping detailed records of my entry dates and visa timeline, but I hadn't thought about including a summary of my substantial presence test calculation in the dual-status statement. One follow-up question for the group - has anyone dealt with state tax implications for dual-status returns? I'm wondering if state residency determination follows the same logic as federal, or if there are additional complications when you've moved between states and countries in the same tax year. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences - this thread probably saved me from making some costly mistakes!

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Paolo Longo

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Welcome to the dual-status club! State tax implications can definitely add another layer of complexity to an already complicated situation. Generally, each state has its own residency rules that may or may not align with federal tax residency determination. Some states use the same substantial presence test logic as federal, while others have their own criteria based on domicile, days present, or other factors. Since you moved from UK to US, you'll need to determine which state (if any) you were a resident of during your US resident period, and whether that state has any special rules for new residents or partial-year residents. A few states like California and New York are particularly aggressive about claiming residency, while others like Florida and Texas (no state income tax) are obviously less of a concern. If you moved to a state with income tax, you'll likely need to file a partial-year resident return there as well. The key is maintaining consistency - if you claim US residency starting from a specific date for federal purposes, your state filing should generally align with that same date. Keep those entry records and visa timeline documentation handy, as states sometimes audit residency determinations more frequently than the IRS does. Definitely recommend checking your specific state's residency rules or consulting with someone familiar with your state's requirements!

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I've been using TaxSlayer Pro for my family trust returns and it's been a solid middle-ground option. It's significantly cheaper than Drake or the other high-end professional software, but still handles complex trusts well. The interface is pretty straightforward if you're comfortable with forms mode, and it includes good error checking to catch common mistakes. One thing I really like is that it doesn't try to oversell you on features you don't need - you pay for the 1041 module and that's it. The K-1 generation is reliable and the forms print cleanly. Customer support has been responsive the few times I've needed help. It's not as fancy as some of the newer AI-powered options people are mentioning, but for a straightforward complex trust filing, it gets the job done without breaking the bank or making you want to throw your computer out the window like TurboTax does.

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Nia Jackson

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Thanks for mentioning TaxSlayer Pro! I hadn't heard of it before but it sounds like exactly what I'm looking for - no-nonsense software that just works without all the upselling. How does the pricing compare to what you were paying with TurboTax Business? And do they have good documentation or help files if you get stuck on something specific to trust returns?

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Lauren Wood

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I've been dealing with the same TurboTax frustration for my family trust! After reading through all these recommendations, I'm definitely going to try either TaxAct Estates & Trusts or FreeTaxUSA Business for next year's filing. One thing I'd add - if you do end up needing to contact the IRS about anything related to your trust return (like I did last year when they questioned some of my distributions), definitely keep that Claimyr option in mind. I spent literally an entire day trying to get through to them about a 1041 issue and got nowhere. The automated system kept dropping my calls after hours of waiting. For what it's worth, I've also heard good things about TaxWise from Universal Tax Systems, though I haven't tried it personally. It's supposedly designed more for small practices but might work for individual filers too. The key seems to be getting away from the consumer-grade software that tries to do everything but doesn't do trust returns particularly well. Thanks for starting this thread - it's exactly the kind of real-world comparison I needed to see!

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Sasha Ivanov

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This thread has been incredibly helpful! I'm in a similar situation with a family trust and getting tired of TurboTax's limitations and constant fee creep. Based on all the recommendations here, I'm leaning toward trying TaxAct Estates & Trusts first since multiple people mentioned it handles simple complex trusts well and has a reasonable price point. The taxr.ai option sounds intriguing too, especially with the AI analysis of trust documents, but I'm a bit cautious about newer platforms for something as important as tax filing. Maybe I'll stick with more established software for this year and consider the newer options once they have more of a track record. Really appreciate everyone sharing their actual experiences rather than just generic software reviews. It's so hard to find real user feedback specifically for trust returns since most online reviews focus on individual or business tax software.

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Has anyone tried using the IRS's own free file options? I'm wondering if those let you itemize for free too. The commercial options all seem to have some kind of catch.

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Yes, the IRS Free File options through their partners DO let you itemize! I used OLT (Online Taxes) through the IRS Free File program last year and was able to itemize with no issues. The catch is you have to meet the income requirements - I think it's AGI under $73,000 for most of the options. Just go to the IRS website and look for "Free File" options rather than going directly to a tax prep company's website. The versions they offer through the IRS program have more features than their regular "free" versions.

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I went through this exact same situation last year! H&R Block kept pushing their $35 upgrade on me too. What I learned is that they're technically correct about the potential savings, but you definitely don't need to pay them for it. Here's what I'd recommend: First, gather up all your tax documents - mortgage interest statement (1098), medical bills, charitable donations, property tax records, etc. Then add them up yourself to see if they exceed the standard deduction ($13,850 if you're single, $27,700 if married filing jointly). If your itemized deductions are legitimately higher than the standard amount, then yes, you should itemize. But don't pay H&R Block for it! I switched to FreeTaxUSA mid-process last year and saved the upgrade fee while still getting the higher refund. Their interface is actually cleaner than H&R Block's too. The key thing to remember is that H&R Block's "free" version is really just a marketing tool to get you to upgrade. Other services like FreeTaxUSA, TaxAct, and the IRS Free File options include itemizing in their actual free versions.

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Nathan Dell

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This is really helpful! I'm new to all this tax stuff and was feeling totally lost. So just to make sure I understand - if my mortgage interest plus medical bills plus donations add up to more than $13,850 (I'm single), then I should definitely itemize instead of taking the standard deduction? And FreeTaxUSA will let me do this completely free? I'm kicking myself for almost paying H&R Block $35 for something I can get elsewhere for nothing. Thanks for the step-by-step breakdown - it makes way more sense now!

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