


Ask the community...
I see a lot of advice here but I'm confused about one thing... if I have $5000 in winnings (including a $3000 jackpot) but $7000 in losses for the year, do I still have to report the $5000 as income and then separately deduct $5000 in losses? Or can I just report the net loss of $2000? Does turbo tax handle this correctly?
You MUST report the full $5000 as income on Schedule 1, then deduct up to $5000 as an itemized deduction on Schedule A. You can never deduct more than your winnings, and you can't just report the net amount. This is why gambling taxes can be unfair - you have to report all winnings but can only deduct losses if you itemize. TurboTax does handle this correctly if you follow the prompts carefully. It will ask about your W-2G, then separately ask about gambling losses on the itemized deductions section. Just make sure you're tracking both numbers separately.
Something to keep in mind - even if you get your withholding back, you'll need to be prepared for potential scrutiny from the IRS if your gambling losses are substantial compared to your income. They sometimes flag returns where gambling losses seem unusually high relative to someone's financial situation. The key is having rock-solid documentation. Beyond what others have mentioned, I'd also recommend keeping photos of your losing tickets if possible, and if you play table games, try to get pit boss signatures on your session records when you have big losses. Some casinos will do this if you ask. One more tip: if you're planning to claim gambling losses this year, consider opening a separate bank account just for gambling funds next year. It makes tracking much cleaner and provides a clear paper trail of your gambling activity that's separate from your regular expenses.
This is really helpful advice about documentation! I'm curious about the separate bank account idea - do you just deposit your gambling budget into that account and then only use those funds at casinos? And when you withdraw cash at casino ATMs, does that automatically create the paper trail you're talking about, or do you need to do something additional to track it properly? Also, regarding the pit boss signatures - is that something most casinos are willing to do, or do you have to ask at specific times? I've never thought to ask for that kind of documentation while playing.
Great discussion everyone! I just wanted to add one more practical consideration for your situation. Since you're planning to rebalance between your IRA and taxable account, this might be a good time to think about tax-location strategy going forward. Generally, it's most tax-efficient to hold your most tax-inefficient investments (like REITs, bonds, or high-turnover funds) in tax-advantaged accounts like your IRA, while keeping tax-efficient investments (like broad market index funds or individual stocks you plan to hold long-term) in your taxable account where you can benefit from long-term capital gains rates. With 30-40 years until retirement, you've got plenty of time to recover from those tech losses. The silver lining is that this gives you a chance to restructure your portfolio with better tax efficiency in mind. And as others have confirmed, you don't need to worry about wash sale rules when moving from IRA losses to taxable purchases - just focus on building a solid long-term allocation that you can stick with through future market volatility.
This is really helpful advice about tax-location strategy! I hadn't thought about that aspect when planning my rebalancing. So if I'm understanding correctly, I should consider moving things like bond funds or dividend-heavy investments into my IRA where the tax treatment doesn't matter, and keep my growth stocks in the taxable account where I can benefit from long-term capital gains rates when I eventually sell at a profit? I'm definitely feeling more optimistic about having time to recover from these losses. Sometimes it's easy to get caught up in the short-term pain and forget about the long timeline I'm working with. Thanks for the reminder about staying focused on the big picture!
One additional thing to consider as you're restructuring - since you mentioned you're 30-40 years from retirement, this might actually be a blessing in disguise. Those tech losses in your IRA, while painful now, don't have the same tax implications as losses in a taxable account would. I went through something similar in 2022 with my growth-heavy IRA getting crushed. What I learned is that IRA losses, while they hurt psychologically, are actually "cleaner" from a tax perspective since you're not missing out on tax-loss harvesting opportunities like you would in a taxable account. The fact that you're thinking about wash sale rules shows you're being thoughtful about this, but as others have confirmed, selling those losing positions in your IRA and buying different investments in your taxable account won't create any wash sale issues. Focus on building a more diversified allocation across your accounts rather than trying to recover those specific losses. With decades until retirement, time is really on your side here. Those ARKK losses might sting now, but they'll be a footnote in your investment journey if you stay disciplined with a solid long-term strategy.
This perspective really resonates with me! You're absolutely right that IRA losses are "cleaner" from a tax standpoint - I was getting so caught up in the psychological pain of seeing those red numbers that I wasn't thinking clearly about the actual tax implications (or lack thereof). It's reassuring to hear from someone who went through a similar experience in 2022. I keep telling myself that with 30+ years ahead, these losses will indeed just be a small blip in the long run, but it helps to hear that from someone who's been there. The ARKK comment definitely hit home - that fund has been a brutal teacher about the dangers of chasing hot trends with retirement money! I think you're spot on about focusing on building a better diversified allocation rather than trying to "win back" those specific losses. That mindset shift from recovery mode to strategic planning mode is exactly what I needed to hear right now.
I went through this exact situation last year when I loaned my brother money for his business. One thing I learned that might help others is to set up a simple amortization schedule at the beginning - it makes tracking so much easier throughout the year. You can create one in Excel or Google Sheets that shows each payment broken down into principal and interest portions. This way, you know exactly how much taxable interest income you'll receive each month, and your sister will know exactly how much she owes. Also, make sure to discuss with your sister upfront how she'll handle the interest payments from her tax perspective. She won't be able to deduct the interest since it's personal (not business or mortgage interest), but it's good for both of you to understand the full tax picture before moving forward. The promissory note is definitely essential - I used a simple template I found online that included all the key elements mentioned by others here. Having that formal document made me feel much more confident about the whole arrangement.
This is really helpful advice! I'm new to family lending and hadn't thought about creating an amortization schedule upfront. Do you remember what template you used or have any recommendations for where to find a good promissory note template? I want to make sure I include all the necessary legal language but don't want to overcomplicate it either. Also, when you mention discussing the tax implications with your brother beforehand - did that conversation help avoid any confusion later on? I'm wondering if I should have a similar talk with my sister before we finalize our loan agreement.
@Gael Robinson Having that upfront conversation was absolutely crucial! It prevented any awkwardness later when tax season came around. My brother initially thought he might be able to deduct the interest payments like (mortgage interest ,)so clarifying that personal loan interest isn t'deductible saved us both confusion. For the promissory note template, I actually used one from Nolo.com - they have free basic templates that cover all the essentials without being overly complex. The key elements you want are: loan amount, interest rate, payment schedule, what happens if payments are missed, and signatures from both parties with dates. For the amortization schedule, Excel has built-in loan calculator templates that work great. Just search for loan "amortization in" the template gallery. It automatically calculates how much of each payment goes to principal vs interest, which makes your tax reporting much simpler at year-end. I d'definitely recommend having that tax conversation with your sister before finalizing anything. It shows you re'both taking this seriously as a legitimate financial transaction, which is exactly what the IRS wants to see if they ever have questions about it.
Great question! I went through this exact same process when I loaned money to my daughter for her wedding expenses. You're absolutely right that the interest you receive will be taxable income that needs to be reported on your tax return. From my experience, here are the key steps I recommend: 1. **Create a formal promissory note** - This is crucial for IRS documentation. Include the loan amount, interest rate, payment schedule, and what happens if payments are missed. Both parties should sign and date it. 2. **Track payments meticulously** - Keep detailed records separating principal repayment (not taxable) from interest payments (taxable income). I used a simple spreadsheet to track each monthly payment. 3. **Report on Schedule B** - You'll report the interest income on Schedule B of your Form 1040, even without receiving a 1099-INT. Just list your sister's name as the payer and enter the total interest received during the tax year. 4. **Check the Applicable Federal Rate (AFR)** - Since your loan is over $10,000, make sure your 5% interest rate meets or exceeds the current AFR to avoid potential gift tax complications. The IRS publishes these rates monthly. One additional tip: Consider discussing the tax implications with your sister upfront. While she won't be able to deduct the interest payments (since it's personal debt), it's good for both of you to understand the complete picture before moving forward. Having proper documentation from the start will make tax time much smoother and protect both of you if the IRS ever has questions about the arrangement.
This is such comprehensive advice, thank you! I'm in a similar situation and wondering about one specific detail - when you mention tracking payments meticulously, did you have your daughter send you some kind of receipt or confirmation each month, or did you just rely on bank records and your own spreadsheet tracking? I'm trying to figure out the best way to document that each payment was actually received and properly allocated between principal and interest. Also, did you find that having the formal promissory note made the whole arrangement feel more "official" between family members, or did it create any awkwardness at first?
Has anyone used a Delaware Statutory Trust (DST) for this kind of situation? I've heard it can work with a 1031 exchange but not sure if it applies when the original property is already in a family trust.
DSTs can work with 1031 exchanges regardless of how the original property was held, as long as you're following the proper exchange rules. The key is that you maintain the same beneficial ownership interest. The advantage is you can get fractional ownership in much larger properties with professional management. I did this last year when selling my trust's commercial property and it's been working well - monthly income without any management headaches.
Another strategy worth considering is a Charitable Remainder Trust (CRT) if you have any philanthropic interests. This can be particularly effective for highly appreciated farmland since you get an immediate charitable deduction, avoid capital gains tax on the sale, and receive income for life. The CRT sells the property tax-free, then pays you a percentage annually (typically 5-8%) for either a term of years or your lifetime. At the end, the remainder goes to charity. If you don't need the full value immediately and want to support causes you care about, this could provide steady income while significantly reducing your current tax burden. You could also combine this with life insurance to replace the charitable remainder for your heirs if that's a concern. The tax savings from the charitable deduction can help fund the premium payments.
This CRT approach is really intriguing! I hadn't considered the philanthropic angle, but my family has always supported agricultural education programs. A few questions: What happens if the farmland doesn't sell quickly after it goes into the CRT? And can you choose which charities benefit, or does it have to be decided upfront? Also, roughly what kind of immediate tax deduction are we talking about for something like this - is it a percentage of the property value?
Great questions! With a CRT, the property typically needs to be sold within a reasonable timeframe (usually within the first year or two) since the trust needs to generate income to make the required distributions to you. If it doesn't sell quickly, the CRT can borrow against the property or you might need to contribute other assets temporarily. You have complete flexibility in choosing the charitable beneficiaries - you can name specific organizations upfront or retain the right to change them later. Many people start with a donor-advised fund as the remainder beneficiary, which gives them ongoing control over where the money ultimately goes. The immediate tax deduction depends on several factors: your age, the payout rate you choose, current IRS discount rates, and the property value. For farmland worth $1M with a 6% payout rate, someone age 60 might get a deduction around $400K-500K, but you'd need specific calculations based on your situation. The older you are when you create the CRT, the larger the deduction since the remainder value to charity is considered more certain.
Lydia Bailey
2 Does anyone know if you need to submit proof of expenses to your HSA administrator when you reimburse yourself? My HSA is through HealthEquity and their website just lets me request distributions without uploading any documentation.
0 coins
Lydia Bailey
ā¢16 You typically don't need to submit proof to your HSA administrator. Most let you take distributions without verification. BUT you absolutely need to keep all those receipts and documentation for the IRS in case of an audit. The HSA administrator isn't responsible for verifying eligible expenses - that's between you and the IRS.
0 coins
Natasha Volkov
Great question! You're absolutely on the right track with your HSA strategy. Since you established your HSA on October 15th, any qualified medical expenses from that date forward are eligible for reimbursement - which means your November procedure definitely qualifies. You can contribute up to the 2025 maximum ($4,300 for individual coverage, or $8,550 for family coverage if you're 55+) regardless of when during the year you opened the account, thanks to the "last-month rule." Just make sure you maintain your high-deductible health plan through December 2026 to avoid any penalties. Your reimbursement strategy is spot-on too. You can reimburse yourself the current $1,300 now and the remaining $3,000 later as you build up the account. There's no deadline for HSA reimbursements as long as the expense occurred after your HSA was established. Just keep detailed records of all receipts and documentation - the IRS doesn't require you to submit these with your taxes, but you'll need them if audited. One pro tip: if you can afford to leave some money in the HSA to grow, consider only reimbursing what you absolutely need now. HSAs can be great long-term investment vehicles since the money grows tax-free and withdrawals for qualified expenses are always tax-free, even decades later!
0 coins
Thais Soares
ā¢This is really helpful information! I'm new to HSAs and had no idea about the "last-month rule" - that's a game changer for maximizing contributions. Quick question: when you mention maintaining the high-deductible health plan through December 2026, does that mean if I switch jobs and my new employer has a different health plan, I could face penalties on my HSA contributions?
0 coins