IRS

Can't reach IRS? Claimyr connects you to a live IRS agent in minutes.

Claimyr is a pay-as-you-go service. We do not charge a recurring subscription.



Fox KTVUABC 7CBSSan Francisco Chronicle

Using Claimyr will:

  • Connect you to a human agent at the IRS
  • Skip the long phone menu
  • Call the correct department
  • Redial until on hold
  • Forward a call to your phone with reduced hold time
  • Give you free callbacks if the IRS drops your call

If I could give 10 stars I would

If I could give 10 stars I would If I could give 10 stars I would Such an amazing service so needed during the times when EDD almost never picks up Claimyr gets me on the phone with EDD every time without fail faster. A much needed service without Claimyr I would have never received the payment I needed to support me during my postpartum recovery. Thank you so much Claimyr!


Really made a difference

Really made a difference, save me time and energy from going to a local office for making the call.


Worth not wasting your time calling for hours.

Was a bit nervous or untrusting at first, but my calls went thru. First time the wait was a bit long but their customer chat line on their page was helpful and put me at ease that I would receive my call. Today my call dropped because of EDD and Claimyr heard my concern on the same chat and another call was made within the hour.


An incredibly helpful service

An incredibly helpful service! Got me connected to a CA EDD agent without major hassle (outside of EDD's agents dropping calls – which Claimyr has free protection for). If you need to file a new claim and can't do it online, pay the $ to Claimyr to get the process started. Absolutely worth it!


Consistent,frustration free, quality Service.

Used this service a couple times now. Before I'd call 200 times in less than a weak frustrated as can be. But using claimyr with a couple hours of waiting i was on the line with an representative or on hold. Dropped a couple times but each reconnected not long after and was mission accomplished, thanks to Claimyr.


IT WORKS!! Not a scam!

I tried for weeks to get thru to EDD PFL program with no luck. I gave this a try thinking it may be a scam. OMG! It worked and They got thru within an hour and my claim is going to finally get paid!! I upgraded to the $60 call. Best $60 spent!

Read all of our Trustpilot reviews


Ask the community...

  • DO post questions about your issues.
  • DO answer questions and support each other.
  • DO post tips & tricks to help folks.
  • DO NOT post call problems here - there is a support tab at the top for that :)

Mia Roberts

•

This entire discussion has been incredibly eye-opening! As someone who's always wondered about these tax distinctions, I really appreciate how everyone explained the underlying logic. What finally made it click for me is understanding that the IRS looks at the nature of the economic relationship, not just whether someone received unexpected money. Game shows are commercial enterprises that benefit from contestant participation - even though winning feels like pure luck, you're actually providing entertainment value in a business transaction. Personal gifts are voluntary transfers between family members that serve different social purposes. The prize valuation issue everyone mentioned is really concerning though. It seems deeply unfair that someone could win a "$40,000 car" based on inflated MSRP, face a massive tax bill on that amount, but only be able to sell it for $28,000 in reality. That's a recipe for financial disaster for regular folks who just got lucky. I love the suggestions about requiring cash alternatives at realistic market values or allowing independent appraisals for tax purposes. Something definitely needs to change so that winning a prize doesn't become a financial penalty. Thanks to everyone who shared their knowledge and experiences - this has completely changed how I think about tax policy and shown me there's actually coherent reasoning behind what initially seemed like arbitrary rules!

0 coins

@Mia Roberts - This discussion has been absolutely fantastic! As someone just getting familiar with tax concepts, I really appreciate how everyone broke down what seemed like completely arbitrary rules into logical principles. The key insight for me was realizing that the tax system isn t'just randomly deciding how to treat different transactions - it s'actually implementing broader policy goals. Game shows are businesses that profit from contestant participation, so even luck-based winnings get treated as earned income. Meanwhile, family gifts serve important social functions that we want to protect from excessive taxation. What bothers me most is definitely the prize valuation problem. It s'one thing to understand why winnings should be taxed as income - that makes sense now. But it s'completely different to force someone to pay taxes on an inflated value they could never actually get if they sold the prize. That seems like a flaw in implementation rather than policy. The idea of mandatory realistic cash alternatives really appeals to me. Let contestants choose between taking the physical prize at MSRP and (owing taxes on that amount or) taking cash at true market value. That way people aren t'forced into impossible financial situations just because they got lucky on a game show. Thanks for helping wrap up such an educational thread! I feel like I understand tax policy so much better now.

0 coins

This has been such a comprehensive and educational discussion! As someone new to this community and these tax concepts, I'm amazed at how much I've learned from everyone's insights. What really helped me understand the distinction is framing it in terms of the underlying economic relationships. Game show contestants aren't just "getting lucky" - they're actually participating in a commercial entertainment business where their involvement has real value to the show. Even if it feels like pure chance, there's a legitimate business transaction happening where you provide entertainment in exchange for prizes. Personal gifts operate in a completely different context - they're voluntary transfers between family members that serve important social purposes. The tax system wants to encourage (or at least not discourage) family generosity, which is why the rules are more favorable. The prize valuation issue that several people mentioned really concerns me though. Having winners pay taxes on inflated MSRP values rather than realistic market prices seems like it could create genuine financial hardship. The suggestions about mandatory cash alternatives at true market values make a lot of sense - that way contestants could choose the option that works best for their financial situation. This discussion has completely changed how I think about tax policy. It's not just about collecting revenue, but about implementing broader social and economic goals through the tax code. Thanks to everyone who shared their knowledge and experiences!

0 coins

Jacob Lee

•

@Giovanni Ricci - This has been such an amazing learning experience! As someone completely new to understanding these tax distinctions, I m'really grateful for how clearly everyone explained what seemed like confusing and arbitrary rules. Your point about the underlying economic relationships is exactly what helped me understand this too. I never would have thought of game show contestants as providing a service, but when you frame it as entertainment value in a commercial transaction, the income tax treatment makes perfect sense. Meanwhile, family gifts serve completely different social purposes that deserve different tax treatment. The prize valuation problem really is the most frustrating part of this whole system. I can t'imagine winning what s'supposed to be an amazing prize only to face financial stress because of taxes on an inflated value you could never actually get. The cash alternative idea seems like such a simple fix that would prevent these unfair situations. What strikes me most is how this discussion showed that tax policy is really about balancing different social and economic goals, not just collecting money. It makes me want to learn more about how other areas of the tax code try to encourage certain behaviors while ensuring fairness. Thanks for such a great summary of this thread - it s'been incredibly educational for someone just starting to understand these concepts!

0 coins

This is such a common source of confusion! The key thing to remember is that the reporting threshold and tax liability are two separate issues. Even though Cash App and eBay may both send you 1099-K forms, you're not being "double taxed" - you're just getting multiple reports of income that may or may not actually be taxable. Since you mentioned you're just selling personal items from a garage cleanout, most of these transactions likely won't result in taxable income if you're selling things for less than you originally paid. The platforms are required to report payments to you, but that doesn't make those payments taxable income. Here's what I'd recommend: Keep a simple spreadsheet tracking what you sold, which platform you used, approximately what you originally paid for each item, and what you sold it for. This will help you when tax time comes to properly report the 1099-K amounts while also documenting which transactions were actually at a loss (and therefore not taxable). The good news is that for casual sellers like yourself, the vast majority of these transactions typically end up being non-taxable personal losses rather than taxable income.

0 coins

Chloe Wilson

•

This spreadsheet approach is brilliant - I wish I had started tracking this way from the beginning! I've been selling random stuff on both platforms for months without keeping good records and now I'm panicking about tax season. One question though - for items where I genuinely can't remember what I paid (like clothes I bought years ago), is there a safe way to estimate the original cost? I'm worried about being too aggressive with my estimates and getting in trouble, but I also don't want to accidentally pay taxes on money that's clearly a personal loss.

0 coins

Olivia Evans

•

Great question! For items like clothes where you can't remember the exact purchase price, the IRS generally accepts reasonable estimates based on fair market value at the time of purchase. Here are some safe approaches: For clothing: Use conservative estimates based on typical retail prices for similar items. For example, if you're selling a basic t-shirt for $5, estimating you originally paid $15-20 is very reasonable. For designer items, you can research what they typically sold for when new. For household items: Check online retailers or manufacturer websites to see what similar items cost currently, then adjust for when you likely bought them. Electronics depreciate quickly, so this usually works in your favor. The key is being conservative and reasonable. The IRS is more concerned with people who claim unrealistically high basis amounts to avoid taxes on actual profits. When you're clearly selling personal items at a loss, reasonable estimates are typically fine. Document your methodology (like "estimated based on Target's current pricing for similar items") so you can explain your reasoning if ever questioned. This shows good faith effort rather than just guessing randomly.

0 coins

GalaxyGazer

•

As someone who went through this exact situation last year, I can confirm that the multiple 1099-K forms from different platforms definitely look scary at first, but they're much more manageable once you understand the process. The most important thing I learned is that you need to think about the substance of each transaction, not just the platform. Whether someone pays you through Cash App, PayPal, Venmo, or hands you cash - if you're selling a personal item for less than you paid for it, that's still a personal loss regardless of the payment method. What helped me was creating categories for my sales: 1) Clear personal losses (sold for less than I paid), 2) Possible small gains (might have sold for slightly more than I paid), and 3) Uncertain basis (couldn't remember what I originally paid). For category 3, I used the conservative estimation methods others mentioned above. One tip that saved me time - if you have a lot of small transactions under $50 each, the IRS generally isn't going to scrutinize reasonable basis estimates for obvious personal items like used clothes, books, or household goods. Focus your detailed documentation efforts on higher-value items where the numbers actually matter. The paperwork is definitely annoying, but once you get organized, it's not as overwhelming as it initially seems. And it's much better than accidentally overpaying taxes on money that was never actually income in the first place!

0 coins

CyberNinja

•

This is exactly the kind of practical advice I needed! I'm in a similar boat with tons of small transactions from cleaning out my apartment. Your categorization system makes so much sense - I was getting overwhelmed trying to track down receipts for every single $10 item I sold. One follow-up question: when you say "focus detailed documentation on higher-value items," what dollar threshold did you use? I have maybe 20-30 items I sold for over $100 each, but hundreds of smaller sales. Should I be more careful documenting anything over $50, or is there a different cutoff that makes sense from a risk perspective? Also, did you end up using any software or just stick with a simple spreadsheet? I'm trying to decide if it's worth investing in tax software that handles this stuff or if Excel is sufficient for someone like me who's clearly just selling personal items at a loss.

0 coins

S Corporation Negative Equity - What Are the Tax Consequences?

This year has been rough for my S Corp business. I've had some retained earnings sitting there from previous profitable years, but 2023 was a total disaster profit-wise. I did manage to secure an EIDL loan which kept us afloat (though it's still sitting as debt on my Balance Sheet since it hasn't been forgiven yet). On the personal side, I had to take a couple distributions from the company because my spouse lost their job back in February and we needed some extra cash to cover household expenses. Here's where my equity currently stands: |Equity| | |:--|:--| |3010 Capital Stock|2,000.00| |3100 Shareholder Capital| | |3110 Shareholder Contributions|7,500.00| |3120 Shareholder Distributions|-13,750.00| |Total 3100 Shareholder Capital|-6,250.00| |3200 Retained Earnings|31,875.43| |Net Income|-28,950.22| |Total Equity|-1,324.79| I've realized I'm now in a negative equity position, which I know isn't good. The distributions I took plus the loss for 2023 pushed me into the negative, and I'm worried about the tax implications. I have two specific questions: 1. I understand I shouldn't take distributions exceeding my basis - but does "basis" refer specifically to my Retained Earnings account or the combination of Retained Earnings plus current year Net Income (which is a loss in this case)? 2. Would it make more sense to reclassify one of my distributions (about $4K) as a loan instead of a distribution? My personal cash flow is stable again so I could definitely pay it back to the company if that would help the situation.

I've been through a very similar situation with my small manufacturing S Corp, and I want to emphasize something that really helped me get through this process smoothly. When you're preparing the loan documentation, make sure you also update your corporate books to reflect the reclassification before filing your 2023 return. This means adjusting your shareholder distribution account to reduce it by the $4K you're converting to a loan, and adding a corresponding "Shareholder Loan Payable" liability on your balance sheet. This creates a clean paper trail that shows the reclassification was a deliberate business decision made before the tax return was filed, not an afterthought to avoid taxes. My CPA said this kind of consistency across all financial records is exactly what the IRS looks for when evaluating whether these transactions are legitimate. Also, consider having your CPA prepare a brief memo explaining the business rationale for the loan conversion - something like "to preserve shareholder basis and maintain compliance with S Corp distribution rules." It's not required, but it shows thoughtful planning rather than tax avoidance. The whole process took me about two weeks to complete properly, but it ended up saving me over $1,500 in capital gains taxes. Given your numbers, you should see similar savings while still leaving you with a manageable excess distribution amount to report.

0 coins

Mia Alvarez

•

This is exactly the kind of detailed implementation guidance I was hoping to find! The point about updating the corporate books before filing is crucial - I can see how that would demonstrate this was a deliberate business decision rather than a last-minute tax maneuver. I really appreciate the suggestion about having my CPA prepare a memo explaining the business rationale. Even though it's not required, it sounds like the kind of documentation that could be invaluable if there's ever any scrutiny down the road. Shows we thought through the business reasons, not just the tax implications. Your timeline of two weeks seems reasonable for getting everything properly documented and adjusted. I'm planning to start this process with my CPA next week, so that should give us plenty of time before the filing deadline to make sure everything is consistent across all the financial records. The potential tax savings you mentioned ($1,500+ in your case) really drives home why it's worth doing this correctly rather than just accepting the full excess distribution treatment. Thanks for sharing your real-world experience with the implementation details!

0 coins

Luca Conti

•

This is such a comprehensive discussion with really practical advice! As someone who's been lurking in this community for a while but never posted, I finally had to jump in because this exact scenario is what I'm dealing with right now. I'm in a very similar situation with my small consulting S Corp - took distributions that exceeded my basis after a loss year, and I've been stressing about the tax implications. Reading through everyone's experiences with the loan reclassification approach has been incredibly helpful and reassuring. What really stands out to me is how many people emphasize the importance of proper documentation and making the loan payments real rather than just paper transactions. That seems to be the key differentiator between a legitimate business strategy and something that might raise red flags. I'm definitely going to follow the advice about using the AFR rate from when the original distributions occurred, creating a realistic repayment schedule, and making sure all the corporate records reflect the reclassification consistently. The suggestion about getting a corporate resolution even as a single shareholder is something I wouldn't have thought of but makes total sense. Thanks to everyone who shared their real experiences - it's made what felt like an impossible problem seem much more manageable with the right approach and documentation!

0 coins

Welcome to the discussion! It's great to see another community member jump in, especially when dealing with such a stressful situation. Your consulting S Corp scenario sounds very familiar - it's more common than people realize, particularly after challenging business years. What I've learned from reading through all these experiences is that the loan reclassification approach really does work when done properly, but the devil is definitely in the details. One thing I'd add based on what others have shared - don't rush the documentation process. Take the time to get everything right the first time rather than trying to fix issues later. The AFR rate lookup, realistic payment schedule, and corporate resolution might seem like overkill, but they're what distinguish a legitimate business transaction from something that looks like tax avoidance. Also, consider this a learning opportunity for better basis tracking going forward. Setting up that monitoring system that @5ba6ffebc470 suggested could save you from going through this stress again in future years. Good luck with getting everything documented with your CPA! The fact that so many people here have successfully navigated this same situation should give you confidence that it's totally manageable with the right approach.

0 coins

Caden Nguyen

•

Great question! As someone who went through this exact same confusion last year, I can share what I learned. The key thing to understand is that the mortgage interest deduction only helps if your total itemized deductions exceed the standard deduction. For your situation with a $385k house, you're probably looking at around $15-18k in mortgage interest for the first year (depending on your rate). Add your property taxes (~$5-8k typically for that price range) and you might be getting close to the $29,200 standard deduction threshold for married filing jointly. Here's what I wish someone had told me: Don't rush to adjust your withholding in your first year. Calculate your expected itemized deductions first (mortgage interest + property taxes + charitable donations + any other qualifying expenses) and only adjust withholding if you're confident you'll exceed the standard deduction by a meaningful amount. The mortgage interest deduction is great, but it's not automatic money back - it just reduces your taxable income. And remember, you can always make this calculation again next year when you have actual numbers from your first year of homeownership!

0 coins

This is exactly the kind of practical advice I was looking for! I'm definitely going to be conservative with any withholding adjustments in our first year. It sounds like with our mortgage interest around $16k and property taxes of $5,400, we might be right on the borderline of whether itemizing makes sense. I think I'll wait to see our actual numbers after the first year before making any major changes to our W-4. Better safe than sorry when it comes to taxes!

0 coins

Grace Lee

•

I completely understand your confusion - this was one of the most overwhelming aspects of becoming a first-time homeowner for me too! Here's what I've learned after going through this process: The math is actually pretty straightforward once you break it down. For your $385k house with $2,680 monthly payments, you're likely paying around $15-17k in interest during your first year (assuming a rate around 6-7%). Add your property taxes, and you might be looking at around $20-23k in potential itemized deductions before considering charitable contributions or other eligible expenses. Since the 2025 standard deduction for married filing jointly will be around $29,200, you'd need about $6-9k more in deductions to make itemizing worthwhile. This could come from charitable donations, state/local taxes (up to the $10k cap), or medical expenses. My advice: Don't adjust your withholding in year one. Use this first year to collect real data on your mortgage interest (your lender will send you Form 1098), property taxes, and other potential deductions. Then you can make an informed decision about withholding adjustments for year two. The mortgage interest deduction is valuable, but only if it pushes your total itemized deductions above that standard deduction threshold. Take it slow and you'll figure out what works best for your specific situation!

0 coins

Honorah King

•

This is really helpful advice! I'm curious though - you mentioned that charitable donations could help push you over the standard deduction threshold. How much do people typically need to donate to make a meaningful difference in this calculation? We do give to our church and a few charities throughout the year, but I've never really tracked it carefully. Should I start keeping better records of all charitable giving now that we're homeowners? Also, when you say "take it slow" - do you mean I shouldn't even consider adjusting withholding until after I file my first tax return as a homeowner? I'm worried about overwithholding and giving the government an interest-free loan, but I'm also scared of underpaying and owing a big chunk at tax time.

0 coins

Aisha Khan

•

This entire discussion has been incredibly enlightening! As someone who's been working for several years but never really understood the nuances of payroll taxation, reading through everyone's experiences has been like getting a crash course in how "pre-tax" deductions actually work. I had the same exact confusion as Diego - staring at my pay stub wondering why my pension contributions reduced my federal taxable wages but left my Social Security and Medicare wages unchanged. Like so many others here, I was convinced my employer was making calculation errors until I read through these explanations. The distinction between regular "pre-tax" deductions (income tax only) and Section 125 cafeteria plan deductions (all taxes) is something that should really be emphasized more during benefits enrollment. The terminology is genuinely misleading - when something says "pre-tax," most people naturally assume it means before ALL taxes, not just income tax. What's been most valuable is learning about optimizing benefit elections based on these tax differences. I'm currently contributing to my HSA through direct payments, but after understanding the FICA tax savings available through payroll deduction, I'm definitely making that switch. The 7.65% difference in Social Security and Medicare taxes could save me hundreds annually. The reframing of FICA taxes as building future Social Security benefits is also really helpful. Instead of feeling frustrated about paying those extra taxes, I can view them as mandatory retirement savings with a future payoff. Thanks to everyone who contributed to this discussion - this community consistently provides clearer, more practical guidance than any official tax resource I've encountered!

0 coins

StarSailor

•

This has been such an amazing educational thread! I'm relatively new to this community and was dealing with this exact same confusion on my recent paystubs. Like everyone else, I couldn't understand why my "pre-tax" contributions only seemed to reduce some taxes but not others. What really clicked for me was the explanation about Section 125 cafeteria plan deductions versus regular retirement contributions. I had no idea that my health insurance premiums were actually getting better tax treatment than my 401k contributions! It's so frustrating that the term "pre-tax" is used for both when they work completely differently. I'm definitely going to review all my benefit elections after reading this. I've been contributing to my HSA directly instead of through payroll, which means I've been missing out on FICA tax savings all this time. That 7.65% difference really adds up when you think about it over a full year. The perspective about building Social Security earnings is really helpful too. Instead of feeling like I'm getting ripped off by paying more taxes, I can think of those FICA contributions as investing in my future benefits. Still hurts the current paycheck, but at least there's a long-term benefit. Thanks to everyone who shared their knowledge here - this community is incredible for breaking down complex tax concepts in ways that actually make sense!

0 coins

This thread has been absolutely incredible! As a newcomer to this community, I'm amazed by how thoroughly everyone has explained this confusing aspect of payroll taxation. I just started a new job with a pension plan and was experiencing the exact same confusion as Diego - wondering why my "pre-tax" pension contributions weren't reducing my Social Security and Medicare taxes. The distinction between regular "pre-tax" deductions (income tax only) and Section 125 cafeteria plan deductions (all taxes) is something I never learned anywhere else. It's honestly frustrating that the term "pre-tax" is so misleading when it really means "pre-income-tax-only" for most retirement contributions. But understanding that health insurance premiums, HSA contributions through payroll, and FSA contributions actually reduce ALL taxes including FICA is going to completely change how I approach my benefits elections. I've been contributing to my HSA through direct payments, but after reading about the 7.65% FICA tax savings available through payroll deduction, I'm definitely switching during my next enrollment period. That difference really adds up over a full year! The perspective about FICA taxes building your future Social Security benefits is also really helpful for reframing what initially feels like paying more than you should. While it impacts your current paycheck, at least those contributions are going toward your retirement benefits rather than just disappearing into the tax void. Thanks to everyone who shared their experiences and expertise - this community provides more practical, understandable tax guidance than I've found in any official publication. It's also reassuring to know from the payroll professional who commented that this confusion is extremely common. Makes me feel much less foolish about not understanding these tax distinctions immediately!

0 coins

Prev1...762763764765766...5644Next