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Nick Kravitz

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Just be careful that your "business" isn't just a tax shelter. I tried something similar with a "photography business" a few years back and got audited. The IRS disallowed all my deductions because they determined I didn't have a profit motive. Their exact words were that I had "significant income from other sources" (my stock trading) and was using the business primarily to offset that income. Cost me thousands in back taxes plus penalties.

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That's definitely concerning. Can I ask what happened specifically that made them determine it wasn't a real business? Did you have clients and actual business operations? I'm planning to have legitimate clients and services, proper accounting, a business license, etc.

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Nick Kravitz

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I did have a few clients and made some revenue, but the IRS found several problems with my approach. First, I wasn't keeping good business records or tracking expenses properly. Second, I never created a formal business plan or showed evidence of trying to make the business profitable. Third, I continued with the same approach for 3 years despite consistent losses. The big red flag was that my expenses were all things I would have bought anyway for my hobby (camera equipment, travel to scenic locations, etc.), and most of my "clients" were friends and family. The IRS is looking for real efforts to operate profitably. Since your background is in IT consulting, with actual expertise and a clear market for services, you'll have a much stronger case than I did. Just make sure you run it like a serious business from day one.

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Kara Yoshida

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This is a great question that many traders face. The key thing to understand is that yes, legitimate business losses can offset your short-term capital gains, but the IRS will scrutinize whether your business is real or just a tax avoidance scheme. Since you have an IT consulting background, you're in a much stronger position than someone starting a random business just for tax purposes. Here are some critical steps to ensure you're protected: 1. **Document everything from day one** - Business plan, client contracts, invoices, expense receipts, time logs 2. **Separate business finances** - Get a business bank account and credit card, never mix personal and business expenses 3. **Price your services at market rates** - Don't undercharge just to show losses 4. **Actively market your services** - Keep records of your marketing efforts and client outreach 5. **Get proper business licenses/registrations** where required Regarding your specific expenses, equipment purchases over a certain threshold may need to be depreciated rather than fully expensed in year one, unless you elect Section 179 or bonus depreciation. Software subscriptions and marketing costs are typically fully deductible. The $15k loss scenario you described could work, but make sure those expenses are truly necessary for the business and not things you'd buy anyway. The IRS looks for ordinary and necessary business expenses tied to profit-generating activities. Consider consulting with a tax professional who can review your specific situation and help structure everything properly from the start.

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Just a heads up - if you're going during tax season (Feb-Apr), expect longer wait times even with an appointment. I went in March last year and what should have been 45 mins turned into almost 2 hours because they were swamped. Try to schedule early morning appointments if possible! Also, make sure your phone is charged - they have you wait in different areas and you might want to track your refund status while you're there.

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Thanks for the timing tip! That's exactly what I was worried about. Did you end up getting your refund processed faster because you went during peak season, or does the timing of your appointment not really affect how quickly they process everything after? Also wondering if they let you use your phone while waiting or if it's one of those "put everything away" type situations.

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I went through this last month and it was pretty straightforward! Definitely bring your original Social Security card, government photo ID, and a copy of your tax return. Also helpful to have the IRS letter that told you to verify your identity. One thing I wish someone had told me - they'll ask you personal questions from your tax history to verify it's really you, so review your return beforehand. The actual appointment was about 30 minutes, but I'd budget an hour total including wait time and security. Good luck!

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Oh wow, I didn't know they'd quiz you on your tax history! That's actually really smart of them but also nerve-wracking lol. What kind of questions did they ask? Like specific amounts from your return or more general stuff about your filing status and deductions? I'm already anxious about remembering all those details - might need to study my return like it's a final exam! šŸ˜…

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QuantumQuest

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After verification they processed my refund in like 2 weeks. Way faster than I expected ngl

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Axel Far

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Had my appointment last month and honestly it wasn't as scary as I thought! The agent was actually pretty nice and walked me through everything. Main things they asked: confirm SSN, previous addresses from last 3 years, and details about my 2023 tax return. Whole thing was done in 45 mins including wait time. Pro tip: bring a bank statement too - they asked for it to verify my direct deposit info for the refund.

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Rajiv Kumar

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Thanks for sharing your experience @Axel! That's really reassuring to hear it went smoothly. Did they ask for any specific bank statements or just any recent one? Want to make sure I bring the right paperwork.

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Javier Cruz

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@Axel Any recent bank statement should work - I brought one from the past month and they were fine with it. They just want to verify the account number matches what you put on your tax return. Don't overthink it too much!

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Has anyone here tried adjusting their W-4 using the Two-Jobs Worksheet instead of just adding an extra withholding amount? I'm wondering which approach is more accurate.

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Ruby Garcia

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I found the Two-Jobs Worksheet to be really accurate for our situation. It had us withhold an extra $267 per paycheck from my husband's income (the higher earner between us), and we ended up with a tiny $43 refund instead of owing $3100 like the previous year. Way better than guessing at a random extra amount!

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Sofia Gomez

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This is such a frustrating situation that so many dual-income couples face! I went through the exact same thing when my spouse and I got married. We went from both getting refunds as single filers to owing about $2,800 every year despite maxing out our withholdings. What finally worked for us was using the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator mid-year to recalculate our withholdings. The tool showed us that we needed to add an extra $180 per paycheck from the higher earner's salary. It seems counterintuitive that "maximum withholding" isn't actually enough when you're married with two incomes, but the withholding tables just weren't designed for our situation. One thing that helped me understand it better: when you select "Married" on your W-4, the system assumes your spouse either doesn't work or earns significantly less. When both spouses earn similar amounts (especially in higher brackets), you're essentially underwithholding on both incomes. The good news is once you fix the withholding, the problem goes away completely. We've gotten small refunds the past two years after making the adjustment.

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This is so helpful to hear from someone who's been through the exact same situation! I'm definitely going to try the IRS Tax Withholding Estimator. Did you find it easy to use, or was it confusing to navigate? I'm not super tax-savvy so I'm hoping it's user-friendly. Also, when you say "mid-year" - is there a best time to recalculate, or can you do it anytime?

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Yara Elias

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This is such a helpful thread! I'm dealing with a similar situation with my 8-year-old's UTMA account. After reading all these responses, I'm realizing I need to completely rethink my approach. I've been doing the same gain harvesting strategy as Jessica, but now I'm understanding that between the kiddie tax threshold, potential financial aid implications, and the compounding effect of keeping money invested, I'm probably shooting myself in the foot. The state tax angle is particularly eye-opening - I'm in New York where we definitely have capital gains taxes, so even the "0% federal" scenario isn't truly tax-free for us. One question I haven't seen addressed: for those who switched from annual harvesting to a buy-and-hold strategy, did you have any issues with the cost basis tracking? I'm worried about having a messy mix of different purchase dates and basis amounts when it comes time to eventually sell everything.

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Great question about cost basis tracking! When I switched from harvesting to buy-and-hold, I was worried about the same thing. But honestly, most brokerages handle this pretty well automatically now. The key is making sure you keep good records of all your previous sales/repurchases. Each lot will have its own cost basis and purchase date, but when it comes time to sell, you can usually choose which lots to sell first (FIFO, LIFO, or specific identification). If you're planning to hold until your daughter is 18+, those earlier repurchases will likely qualify for long-term capital gains treatment anyway since they'll be over a year old. The messiness is really just a record-keeping issue rather than a tax calculation problem. I'd recommend taking a screenshot of your current cost basis summary before you stop harvesting, just so you have a clean record of where things stand when you changed strategies.

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Khalil Urso

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This thread has been incredibly enlightening! I'm in a similar boat with my 10-year-old's UTMA account and have been doing the annual gain harvesting for three years now. After reading all these insights, I'm realizing I may have been overthinking this. The kiddie tax threshold at $2,300 is particularly concerning - I hadn't fully grasped that gains above that amount would be taxed at MY rate, not my daughter's. Given that I'm in the 32% bracket, this completely defeats the purpose of my strategy if we ever exceed that threshold. What's really got me thinking is the compounding argument. Even if I'm only paying small amounts in taxes each year, that money could be growing for another 8+ years. The financial aid implications are also something I never considered - definitely don't want to inadvertently hurt her college funding prospects. I think I'm going to stop the harvesting and just let it ride. Worst case scenario, if she has significant income at 18, we can reassess then. But for now, the potential downsides seem to outweigh the modest tax benefits, especially when you factor in state taxes (I'm in Massachusetts) and all the administrative complexity. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences - this community is amazing for working through these complex scenarios!

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Nia Wilson

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This is exactly the kind of thoughtful analysis that makes this community so valuable! Your situation sounds very similar to what many of us have gone through - that "aha moment" when you realize the strategy you thought was brilliant might actually be counterproductive. The 32% bracket definitely changes everything once you hit that kiddie tax threshold. And Massachusetts has its own capital gains considerations too, so you're right to factor that in. One thing that really resonated with me from this thread is how the "perfect" tax strategy on paper can get complicated real quick when you layer in state taxes, financial aid implications, and just the sheer administrative burden of tracking everything year after year. Sometimes the simpler approach (buy and hold) wins out not just mathematically but practically too. Good luck with whatever you decide! And definitely keep us posted if you end up running the numbers through any of those analysis tools mentioned earlier - would be curious to see what the projections show for your specific situation.

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