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One thing nobody's mentioned yet - check if any of your tax debt is approaching the 10-year CSED (Collection Statute Expiration Date). If so, sometimes it's better to wait it out than agree to a payment plan! When you enter into an installment agreement, the statute is suspended during the plan plus 30 days after it ends. So you could accidentally extend the life of tax debt that would otherwise expire soon.
This is super important advice! I didn't realize this and ended up extending my CSED by almost 2 years by agreeing to a payment plan right before the 10-year mark. I should have just waited it out. Also worth noting that there are other things that extend the CSED besides payment plans - filing bankruptcy, submitting an offer in compromise, requesting a collection due process hearing, etc. Always check your transcript for the actual CSED date.
The combination of CNC status on multiple years while they actively pursue one specific year creates a complex situation that requires careful navigation. Here's my take based on what you've shared: First, don't feel bad about rejecting their initial offer - $500+ monthly escalating payments for someone who already has most years in CNC status due to financial hardship seems excessive. The fact that six of your seven years have TC 530 codes is significant leverage. Regarding the single-year payment plan issue: While IRS reps often say they can't do single-year agreements, there are exceptions. You should specifically ask about a "streamlined installment agreement" for just the 2019 liability, referencing the fact that the other years are already determined to be uncollectible due to your financial situation. The 2010 debt extending to 2026 is worth investigating further. That's a 16-year collection period, which suggests multiple statute extensions occurred (possibly previous payment plans, OIC applications, or bankruptcy). Request a copy of your CSED worksheet to understand exactly why it was extended. When they ask for financial statements, be prepared to demonstrate that your financial situation hasn't materially changed since the October 2022 CNC determination. If it hasn't improved, you might even be able to get the 2019 year put into CNC status as well. The employer withholding lock-in can be challenged once you establish a payment agreement and demonstrate compliance. This isn't automatic but is definitely possible. My advice: Call back, reference the CNC status on your other years, and propose a reasonable payment amount for just 2019 that aligns with your demonstrated financial capacity from the CNC determination.
This is really helpful advice! I'm curious though - when you mention asking for a "streamlined installment agreement" for just the 2019 liability, is that an official IRS term I should use? I want to make sure I'm using the right language when I call back so they take me seriously. Also, regarding the CSED worksheet for the 2010 debt - how do I request that? Do I just ask the collections rep directly, or is there a formal process? That 16-year timeline seems way too long and I'd really like to understand what extended it so much. One more question - if my financial situation really hasn't changed since the 2022 CNC determination, should I be pushing to get 2019 into CNC status too rather than agreeing to any payment plan? It seems like if the IRS already determined I can't pay on six years due to hardship, the same logic should apply to 2019.
I'm dealing with a similar situation right now and this thread has been incredibly informative! One aspect I haven't seen mentioned yet is the timing of when to make this change during the tax year. Since we're already partway through 2025, would it be better to wait and make the accounting method change effective for the 2026 tax year, or can we still implement it for 2025? I'm worried about mid-year complications with the Section 481(a) adjustment calculations. Also, for those who have made this switch - how do you handle the ongoing reconciliation between your accrual books and cash method tax returns? Do you maintain separate records or use some kind of worksheet to track the differences each year? I want to make sure we set up a sustainable system that won't create headaches down the road.
Great question about timing! You can absolutely make the accounting method change effective for 2025 even though we're partway through the year. The change is effective for the entire tax year, not from the date you file Form 3115. So if you file it with your 2025 return, the cash method applies to all of 2025. However, there's an important deadline to keep in mind - Form 3115 must be filed with your timely filed return (including extensions) for the year of change. So for a 2025 change, you'd need to file it with your 2025 S-Corp return by the due date. For the ongoing reconciliation between accrual books and cash tax returns, I set up a simple Excel worksheet that tracks the key differences each year: accounts receivable, accounts payable, prepaid expenses, and accrued liabilities. At year-end, I calculate the book-to-tax differences and use those to prepare the tax return. It's actually not as complicated as it sounds once you get the system set up. The key is being consistent with your tracking method so you don't accidentally double-count or miss items when preparing your returns. Most S-Corp tax software can handle the book-to-tax reconciliation once you input the differences.
Just wanted to add another perspective from someone who made this exact switch two years ago. One thing that really caught me off guard was how the change affected our quarterly estimated tax payments. Since we moved from accrual (where income was recognized when billed) to cash method (income recognized when received), our cash flow timing changed significantly. Under accrual, we had steady quarterly income recognition even if payments came in irregularly. With cash method, our taxable income now fluctuates based on when customers actually pay, which made estimated tax planning much trickier. We had one quarter where we received several large payments and owed way more than expected, followed by a quarter with very little taxable income. My advice: once you make the switch, work with your accountant to develop a new estimated tax payment strategy that accounts for your actual collection patterns rather than your billing schedule. This is especially important for service businesses with longer payment cycles. Also, make sure your payroll processing company understands the change if you're taking distributions or salary adjustments based on "book" income versus "tax" income. The disconnect between the two can create confusion when planning compensation.
This is such an important point that I wish someone had mentioned when I was considering this change! We're a consulting firm with Net-30 payment terms, and I can already see how this could create major cash flow planning issues. Quick question - did you end up adjusting your estimated tax payment schedule to be more frequent (like monthly instead of quarterly) to smooth out the volatility? Or did you just build larger cash reserves to handle the uneven quarters? Also, regarding the payroll/distribution planning - do you now base your owner distributions on cash tax income rather than book income to avoid getting caught short when tax bills come due? I'm trying to think through all these operational changes before we make the switch.
This is such helpful information! I'm in a similar situation - married, both working, and we got burned with a big tax bill last year. One thing I learned the hard way is that even after you fix your W-4s, it's worth running a quick calculation in October or November to make sure you're still on track. I thought I had everything figured out after adjusting our forms in March, but then my wife got a promotion with a retroactive raise that threw off our withholding again. For anyone else dealing with this, I'd also suggest keeping copies of your old W-4s and notes about what changes you made. When tax time comes around, it helps to remember why you made certain choices, especially if you need to adjust again the following year. The key takeaway from all these responses seems to be: check box 2(c) on both forms, only claim dependents/credits on one form, and add any extra withholding to just one form. Sounds like that combo should help avoid the surprise tax bills we've all been dealing with!
This is exactly what I needed to hear! I'm also married with both of us working, and we just got slammed with owing $2,800 this year. I had no idea we were supposed to only claim our kids on one W-4 form - we've been doing it wrong for years! Reading through all these responses, it sounds like the main issues for two-income households are: 1) both spouses claiming the same dependents, 2) not using the multiple jobs worksheet correctly, and 3) not checking that 2(c) box. I'm definitely going to fix our W-4s this week. The October/November checkup tip is brilliant too - I never thought to verify mid-year that we're still on track after making changes. Thanks for sharing your experience with the retroactive raise situation, that's something I wouldn't have considered!
Great thread everyone! As someone who works in tax preparation, I see this exact scenario constantly during tax season. The confusion around married couples with dual incomes is probably the #1 W-4 mistake I encounter. Just to reinforce what others have said with a slightly different explanation: Think of it this way - the W-4 withholding tables assume you're the only earner in your household. When both spouses work and earn similar amounts, you're essentially in a much higher tax bracket than either W-4 form realizes, which is why you end up owing. The key fixes everyone mentioned are spot-on: - Box 2(c) on BOTH forms tells each employer "hey, there's another income stream you don't know about" - Only claiming dependents on ONE form prevents double-dipping the credits - The extra withholding from the worksheet compensates for that higher effective tax rate One additional tip: If you're still nervous about owing after making these changes, you can always add an extra $50-100 per paycheck in Step 4(c) as a buffer. Better to get a small refund than owe money plus penalties! And yes, definitely recommend doing those mid-year checkups mentioned above. I've seen too many people fix their W-4s in January only to have life changes (raises, bonuses, side income) throw everything off again by December.
This is incredibly helpful, thank you! As someone who's been lurking here trying to understand all this W-4 stuff, your explanation about the withholding tables assuming you're the only earner really clicked for me. That makes so much sense why my husband and I keep getting surprised every April. I have a quick follow-up question - when you mention adding that extra $50-100 buffer in Step 4(c), is that per paycheck or total for the year? And if we're already putting the amount from the Multiple Jobs Worksheet in 4(c), would we add the buffer on top of that, or use it instead if we want to be more conservative? Also, I'm curious about your experience with clients - do you find that most people who fix their W-4s using these guidelines end up closer to breaking even, or do they tend to swing too far in the other direction and get big refunds?
Has anyone here actually calculated the exact savings? I'm curious because my accountant says the benefits of s-corp health insurance are "substantial" but won't give me actual numbers.
I did the math on mine. With premiums at $950/month ($11,400/year), having my S-Corp pay saved me about $1,744 in FICA taxes (15.3% of $11,400) compared to if I'd just paid personally. That's basically getting 1.5 months of insurance free each year!
Careful with those calculations. Remember that while the S-Corp paying saves you FICA taxes, you still need proper payroll processing to handle the premium payments as W-2 income (but not subject to FICA). I handle my s-corp's payroll myself and messed this up the first year - had to file amended returns. If you use a payroll service, make sure they understand how to code health insurance for >2% S-corp shareholders correctly.
Great question! I went through this exact same decision last year when I converted my LLC to S-Corp status. After researching and consulting with my tax professional, I ended up having my S-Corp pay 100% of my health insurance premiums. The math is pretty straightforward - at your $780/month premium ($9,360 annually), having the S-Corp pay saves you about $1,430 per year in FICA taxes (15.3% of $9,360). There's really no downside to going with 100% since you get the full deduction either way, but maximize your payroll tax savings. Just make sure you document everything properly. I have my S-Corp pay the insurance company directly each month, and my payroll service adds the premium amount to my W-2 wages (Box 1) but excludes it from Social Security and Medicare wages. Then I deduct the full amount on Line 17 of my personal return. One tip - if you're doing your own payroll, double-check that you're coding the health insurance correctly. It should be included in federal wages but excluded from FICA wages. I use QuickBooks Payroll and there's a specific payroll item for "Health Insurance (S-Corp >2% Owner)" that handles this automatically. With your $75k salary on $125k revenue, you're in a great position - very reasonable compensation ratio that won't raise any IRS eyebrows!
This is really helpful, thanks! Quick question about the documentation - when you say have the S-Corp pay the insurance company directly, do you set up some kind of automatic payment from your business account? I'm worried about missing payments or having timing issues if I'm manually handling this each month. Also, does it matter if the insurance policy is technically in my personal name vs the business name for tax purposes?
Xan Dae
This thread has been incredibly eye-opening! I'm in a similar boat with my employer's HSA provider - terrible customer service and investment options that feel like they're from 2005. I was seriously considering just bailing on the whole pre-tax contribution setup, but the FICA tax math you all laid out is pretty compelling. The hybrid approach definitely seems like the way to go. I'm particularly interested in what @Carmen Ruiz mentioned about Fidelity's dedicated HSA transfer team - that alone makes me feel way more confident about actually pulling the trigger on this strategy. One question I haven't seen addressed: for those doing regular transfers, do you time them around your contribution schedule? Like if you contribute $325/month through payroll, do you wait until you have a full quarter's worth ($975) before transferring, or do you just pick arbitrary dates? I'm trying to figure out if there's an optimal balance between minimizing fees and maximizing time in better investments. Also curious if anyone has experience with how this affects tax filing. I assume the transfers themselves don't create any additional tax complications since it's all staying within HSA accounts, but wanted to confirm before I start moving money around. Thanks for all the detailed advice - this community consistently provides way better guidance than most financial advisors I've talked to!
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Maya Patel
β’Great question about timing transfers around your contribution schedule! I've been doing this for about a year now and found that waiting for a full quarter's contributions to accumulate before transferring works well. It maximizes the value relative to transfer fees while not leaving money sitting too long in poor investment options. For the $325/month example you mentioned, I'd probably transfer every 3-4 months when you hit around $1,000-1,300. That way you're getting good value on any transfer fees and the money isn't sitting idle for too long. Regarding tax filing - you're absolutely right that trustee-to-trustee HSA transfers don't create any tax complications. The money never leaves the HSA ecosystem, so there's nothing to report on your tax return. Your employer will still show your pre-tax HSA contributions correctly on your W-2, and that's all the IRS cares about for the deduction. The only thing to track is making sure your total contributions (across all HSA accounts) don't exceed the annual limit. But since you're just moving the same money between HSA providers, that's not an issue. You're right about this community - the practical, real-world advice here is invaluable for navigating these financial decisions!
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Douglas Foster
This has been such a thorough and helpful discussion! I'm actually dealing with this exact same dilemma with my employer's HSA provider (Health Savings Administrators). Their platform looks like it was built in 1999 and their investment options are limited to expensive actively managed funds with fees over 1%. The breakdown of FICA tax savings versus investment opportunity cost really clarified the decision for me. At my contribution level ($4,300 for 2025), I'd be giving up about $330 in FICA savings by switching to post-tax contributions. But keeping my money in funds with 1%+ expense ratios versus Fidelity's zero-fee index funds could cost me way more over the long term. The hybrid approach is definitely the way to go. I'm planning to keep my payroll deductions to capture the full tax benefits, then do semi-annual transfers to Fidelity to get into better investments while minimizing transfer fees. One thing I'll add for others considering this: check if your employer's HSA provider has any account inactivity fees. Mine charges $3/month if your account balance drops below $1,000, so I'll need to factor that into my transfer strategy to make sure I don't accidentally trigger ongoing fees by transferring too much. Thanks everyone for sharing your experiences and doing the math - this community really delivers when you need practical financial guidance!
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